Liquid in tires

   / Liquid in tires #31  
I run tubes. If it don't have tubes, I put tubes in.
Why? When you get a puncture, you get to have the joy of dismantling the tire to patch the tube, rather than just taking a few minutes to put in a plug. And with filled tires, the dismantling operation is even far more fun! Another nice thing about filled tubeless tires is that if you do have a puncture, it is really easy to find the hole.
 
   / Liquid in tires #32  
Why? When you get a puncture, you get to have the joy of dismantling the tire to patch the tube, rather than just taking a few minutes to put in a plug. And with filled tires, the dismantling operation is even far more fun! Another nice thing about filled tubeless tires is that if you do have a puncture, it is really easy to find the hole.
And then you're on the look out for new rims because yours are rusted out. One of my rigs is a 58 model, still original rims. We run 6 tractors, maybe 3 flats on big rear wheels over 20 years. Lot of front flats, even moreso, but they don't sting as bad.
 
   / Liquid in tires #34  
Both Bioballast and Rim Guard are significantly heavier than water
And significantly more expensive. We build a HD belly pan with 3x6 tubing and 3/8 plate. Covers the extra weight, plus added protection. Debated filling square tubes with lead. I don't quite have enough yet, but I'm close.
 

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   / Liquid in tires #35  
And significantly more expensive. We build a HD belly pan with 3x6 tubing and 3/8 plate. Covers the extra weight, plus added protection.
Already have the belly pan (I forget if we used 3/8" or 1/2") plus the weight of the backhoe subframe the belly pan is mounted to, a heavil built grill guard, limb risers and FOPS... and still filled reae tires with CaCl (no one was selling Rim Guard or anything like that in my area when I bought this tractor).

I've not met anyone in my area who uses plain water (freezing is a problem), or even water with antifreeze.
 
   / Liquid in tires #37  
A 50/50 mix of antifreeze in tractor tires isn’t cheap either.
Not to mention it's toxic to animals (and the taste is highly attractive to them). Even the RV/Marine antifreeze which is often referred to as "nontoxic" is not really nontoxic - it's just less toxic than regular automotive antifreeze.
 
   / Liquid in tires #38  
Already have the belly pan (I forget if we used 3/8" or 1/2") plus the weight of the backhoe subframe the belly pan is mounted to, a heavil built grill guard, limb risers and FOPS... and still filled reae tires with CaCl (no one was selling Rim Guard or anything like that in my area when I bought this tractor).

I've not met anyone in my area who uses plain water (freezing is a problem), or even water with antifreeze.
Never seen anything but water and no freeze in tires here. A few people grow beets in their gardens, but that's it. Water is plentiful though. Alcohol or anti freeze is readily available. I've always fixed my own flats. Put tires on my vehicles. I have used a tire shop when out of town and in a bind.
 
   / Liquid in tires #39  
A 50/50 mix of antifreeze in tractor tires isn’t cheap either.
We put maybe two gallons in a 16.9-38 tire. It almost got down to freezing once when ize a kid. Just kidding, I've seen single digit negatives a few times here. -90 I have seen twice, but not here.
 
   / Liquid in tires #40  
And then you're on the look out for new rims because yours are rusted out. One of my rigs is a 58 model, still original rims. We run 6 tractors, maybe 3 flats on big rear wheels over 20 years. Lot of front flats, even moreso, but they don't sting as bad.
Perhaps I am wrong, bit I am not aware of many rust problems in tubeless tire and rim setups using beetjuice or windshield wiper fluid or even water. The way I understand it is that it takes O2 to cause rust inside a tubeless rim and unless you frequently change the air in your tires there is a very limited quantity of O2 available to form a dangerous amount of rust.

I have a 1957 model tractor that has tubed tires and spent it's life with Calcium chloride filled tubed tires (That was your only choice back then). It never had a flat since I bought it in 1985. By the year 2015 the OEM rims were indeed shot because of rust around the beads. Probably from the salt of previous leaks, or residual salt from original filling. But to my pleasant surprise, replacing the rims was not all that hard or expensive. But to my unpleasant surprise, I was kind of forced to put the old calcium chloride back inside new tubes and rim because the tire shop that I went to said they had no way to dispose of the calcium chloride. So who ever owns my tractor in the year 2075 may have to replace the rims.

I agree that flats seem to occur on the front more often than the rear, but I guess I'd still rather fix a filled tubeless rear tire over a filled tube rear tire, even if I have to replace a rim every 50 years or so. In the end either way will work just fine, take your choice.
 

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