Sawmills, sawmill buildings, drying sheds, and kilns... show your pictures!

[Rustyiron]

I'll do either. If I need to hit a certain dimension with the cant, and the small end is just big enough I'll purposely start there. This is probably due to my lack of experience.

 

[Jstpssng]

Thanks for the replies to my question. I've always seen them sawn from the small end so started out doing it that way. I'm beginning to realize I'm losing lumber to slabs by taking too much off in my first and second cuts. I also quickly discovered that you can't make a straight cut with a dull blade. Also, you can dull a blade fast by bouncing it off the stops. I guess they aren't designed for cutting steel.

 

[Citydude]

This guy added lasers to his mill head. Pretty brilliant in my book.

 

[Jstpssng]

^^^^^^

I'd like to do that,but need a more permanent setup first.

 

[Rustyiron]

I'm beginning to realize I'm losing lumber to slabs by taking too much off in my first and second cuts.

Lol, yeah that pretty little diagram that we've all seen years of how you get everything little inch of Lumber out of a log went "out the window" real fast for me too.
I've only sawn hemlock.... until last week. I had one last wall that needed 1x for siding and I decided to cut one of my Red pines that had a pretty good scar from the last logging operation. I topped it @ 62' above the stump cut and there was only about 9" of taper in 62'! That's pretty easy to have in a 30' hemlock.

This back wall is against the woods and can't be seen without a walk so I wasn't concerned about it aging differently than the rest (hemlock).

 

[Jstpssng]

^^^^^
That's a nice building. I'll bet that pine sawed a bit easier than the hemlock, also.

i think that by sawing from the large end rather than the small end, I will get some short boards from each log which I have been tossing into the slab pile.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Thanks for the replies to my question. I've always seen them sawn from the small end so started out doing it that way. I'm beginning to realize I'm losing lumber to slabs by taking too much off in my first and second cuts. I also quickly discovered that you can't make a straight cut with a dull blade. Also, you can dull a blade fast by bouncing it off the stops. I guess they aren't designed for cutting steel.

Sawing from the "top" end is the "right" way, many logs mill easier from that end.

Buy or rig up toe boards and learn how to "properly" use them, and you will become a better sawyer because of it.

BTW, I've used a cheapo Lazer on and off for many years, but mostly off, as I learned how to mill without one long ago.

SR

 

[Jstpssng]

I understand what you are saying. However, there are times when it's easier for me to do it backwards, such as when I'm, trying to saw around the rot.

Sawing from the "top" end is the "right" way, many logs mill easier from that end.

Buy of rig up toe boards and learn how to "properly" use them, and you will become a better sawyer because of it.

SR

Then again, you've sawn more this year than I have in my life; so I appreciate your comment. I do have a couple of boards which I use to center the pith; that backfired though when I had to saw around rot in the butt end.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Learning "good" habits now, will serve you big time later!

SR

 

[Molalla1]

^^^^^
That's a nice building. I'll bet that pine sawed a bit easier than the hemlock, also.

i think that by sawing from the large end rather than the small end, I will get some short boards from each log which I have been tossing into the slab pile.

Yep, a very nice job!