Trailer question - is there too light of a load for a 14k trailer?

[Shenandoah MF1760]

Final point....dont know the tow vehicle and dont want to turn this into a CDL vs no CDL debate.....but currently modern 1-ton DRW trucks are coming in at 14k GVWR. That makes any trailer attached with over a 12k rating; over 26k for the combination.

Not to get off topic but I'm curious about the 26K. In Texas exceeding that GVWR number will require a non-commercial class A license (rarely enforced), I came awful close with the combination of our 5th wheel and the F-450. Is that the case in Ohio as well?

I know nothing about aluminium trailers, but if there is an ounce of truth in the statement they can't be pulled empty without damage, then I'd never consider one. As someone else said, folks that deliver equipment always return empty, but then I've never seen them use an aluminium trailer for that kind of work.

 

[amhicks21]

Ive been hauling either an l6060 or a t590 bobcat on 14k trailers every work day for over a decade. I also do maintenance on about 30 trailers. Aluminum will fatigue from flexing much quicker than steel so im assuming they're expecting that a chained down piece of equipment will help keep the trailer more rigid. I personally wouldn't ever buy an aluminum open deck trailer or one with torsion axles. Practically everyone ive know that has owned one has had them crack. Just last friday I had a coworker asking me if I can take a look at her horse trailer because it has cracks in the aluminum floor. fortunately the frame is steel. I knew a guy that hauled mowers for a few years on an aluminum 20ft 7k and it was basically scrap by then. Aluminum is fine for building trailers if it can be made very rigid but I don't think the benefits outweigh the problems with 14k open deck trailers.

 

[NonTypicalCPA]

Ive been hauling either an l6060 or a t590 bobcat on 14k trailers every work day for over a decade. I also do maintenance on about 30 trailers. Aluminum will fatigue from flexing much quicker than steel so im assuming they're expecting that a chained down piece of equipment will help keep the trailer more rigid. I personally wouldn't ever buy an aluminum open deck trailer or one with torsion axles. Practically everyone ive know that has owned one has had them crack. Just last friday I had a coworker asking me if I can take a look at her horse trailer because it has cracks in the aluminum floor. fortunately the frame is steel. I knew a guy that hauled mowers for a few years on an aluminum 20ft 7k and it was basically scrap by then. Aluminum is fine for building trailers if it can be made very rigid but I don't think the benefits outweigh the problems with 14k open deck trailers.

That's good to know. This trailer wont' get a ton of use. It'll haul my tractor a handful of times a year, my side by sides a few times a year, and hay a few times a year. My tow vehicle is a '20 Sierra 1500 AT4 with the 6.2 engine. I like that the aluminum weights around 800-1000lbs less than steel in the 20'/22' trailers I'm considering. I'm not opposed to steel, but the extra weight and rust issues makes me consider aluminum.

 

[NonTypicalCPA]

Considering my tow vehicle is rated at 9800lbs, I probably should stick with the 10k trailer which would cover anything currently I tow.

 

[sandman2234]

Try looking up a tire manufactures tire loading pressure chart.

Tire manufacturer loading charts have load ratings for different tires, and none even come close to suggesting that you lower the tire pressure to allow a softer ride. Since the O/P did not stipulate what size and load range tire he is running, either of us speculating as to what the manufacturer of his tires says is too low, is just speculation. Searches on the net tend to allow for a variance of tire pressure of up to 10%, before the tire is considered having low tire pressure, but you can find plenty of statements where a given number "is ok to run"! Since there are so many different tire sizes and weight ratings for all kinds of tires, placing a number on what psi you can run is ludicrous, so I won't go there
Searches on what the NUMBER ONE reason for tire failures comes back as low inflation, and since most max tire inflation is listed on the sidewall of the tire, advising someone to lower the air pressure to a point to allow a softer ride is asking for tire failure.
David from jax

 

[sandman2234]

I have pulled aluminum trailers many times with no issues, in a commercial situation. Flatbed spread axle trailers are very common with millions of issue free miles.
My Big Tex 20+5 trailer Gooseneck has a steel frame with wood deck. I have the wood deck stripped off and am putting an aluminum deck on it in my very limited spare time. I may or may not save enough weight to make a difference, but I should never need to replace the wood deck again!
Cost of aluminum deck material is usually not worth the added cost, but I purchased a 40' semi trailer years ago with an aluminum floor to replace the deck on a 33" trailer and made money when I sold the trailer without the deck. (Plus the guy was in a hurry so he removed the decking for me).
I purchased some additional drop pieces from a trailer repair shop to have enough for a complete deck.
I wish I had weighed the trailer before stripping the deck, so I would know the weight savings.
David from Jax

 

[LouNY]

Tire manufacturer loading charts have load ratings for different tires, and none even come close to suggesting that you lower the tire pressure to allow a softer ride. Since the O/P did not stipulate what size and load range tire he is running, either of us speculating as to what the manufacturer of his tires says is too low, is just speculation. Searches on the net tend to allow for a variance of tire pressure of up to 10%, before the tire is considered having low tire pressure, but you can find plenty of statements where a given number "is ok to run"! Since there are so many different tire sizes and weight ratings for all kinds of tires, placing a number on what psi you can run is ludicrous, so I won't go there
Searches on what the NUMBER ONE reason for tire failures comes back as low inflation, and since most max tire inflation is listed on the sidewall of the tire, advising someone to lower the air pressure to a point to allow a softer ride is asking for tire failure.
David from jax

There is absolutely no reason to run a tire at the maximum rated pressure unless you are loading that tire to it's maximum load rating.
There is a considerable difference in an under inflated tire and a properly inflated one. People that think they need to inflate any and all tires to the maximum rated psi are full of it. There is absolutely no reason to exceed the manufactures recommended pressure for the loads the tire is going to see. Just as there is no good reason to exceed the speed rating of a tire.

Tire Inflation Chart

 

[sandman2234]

There is absolutely no reason to run a tire at the maximum rated pressure unless you are loading that tire to it's maximum load rating.
There is a considerable difference in an under inflated tire and a properly inflated one. People that think they need to inflate any and all tires to the maximum rated psi are full of it. There is absolutely no reason to exceed the manufactures recommended pressure for the loads the tire is going to see. Just as there is no good reason to exceed the speed rating of a tire.

The  link you posted proves my point, that correct information for decreased tire pressure is available (AND CORRECT!).
For example...
P235/85r16 in the weight ranges of D thru G uses different max pressures as well as weight ratings. A G rated tire (14ply) is under inflated when run at 35 psi while the same tire in a D or E range "might" be ok for short hauls over short distances.
My point is, very few people understand tires and weights to a point that they can adjust their minimum pressure for a smoother ride.
Does everyone take the trailer to a Catscale and axle out each and every time they load it, and then adjust the pressure for a smooth ride? NO...they guess at how much is on the axles/tires and assume they are good to go. They probably kick the tires and roll on.
Even how much tread depth you have affects the heat buildup in a tire, yet there is no mention of that in the link posted.
My point is, tires are too expensive to be playing a guessing game with, or using a chart that doesn't even consider all the variables.
I run my tires at full inflation because it is easier to keep track of them at any given point in my trip, loaded or empty without having to change the pressure as the trailer is being loaded.
I mean, really...does your trailer ride so badly with full inflation that you want to adjust it every time you load and then unload it?
David from jax

 

[ljjhouser]

New Legend 7' x 22' Open Aluminum Heavy Equipment Trailer For Sale - 7000# Torsion Axles - $0 Down & Payments from $149/mo. W.A.C | Beck's Trailer Store | Michigan's Largest Trailer Dealer | New And Used Trailers For Sale

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www.beckstrailerstore.com

The trailer in question. Becks is a good dealer and Legend makes a good aluminum trailer.

Nice looking trailer. I do like that it is rated 14K and 1400 pounds lighter than my steel trailer. ...Now that statement carries a lot of weight....OH BOY, That might be a PUN. Because it means you can load 1400 more on to it than I can load with my steel. But I personally would ask them about changing to Dexter EZ lube axles with slipper springs.

Considering my tow vehicle is rated at 9800lbs, I probably should stick with the 10k trailer which would cover anything currently I tow.

If the price between 14K and 10K, is close, consider the 14K anyway. 10K are harder to find and the common weights seem to be 7K and 14K. You may find the 10K and 14K priced very close. Then there is "No Loss" in getting a trailer more capable - you may sometime change tow vehicle - Or have a heavy load that could be towed by another truck or vehicle. When I bought my trailer, the 14K was only $300 more than the 10K. But then, that was 2017. I see the SALE price of my trailer has doubled since then - I saw it advertised retail $15K and on sale for $9999.00. That is sad. I paid $5000 for it.


A 14K loaded to capacity "feels" heavy". A 10K loaded to capacity also "feels heavy." A 14K loaded to 10K does not "feel" loaded to capacity or heavy.
Best Wishes.

 

[nyone]

Not to get off topic but I'm curious about the 26K. In Texas exceeding that GVWR number will require a non-commercial class A license (rarely enforced), I came awful close with the combination of our 5th wheel and the F-450. Is that the case in Ohio as well?

I know nothing about aluminium trailers, but if there is an ounce of truth in the statement they can't be pulled empty without damage, then I'd never consider one. As someone else said, folks that deliver equipment always return empty, but then I've never seen them use an aluminium trailer for that kind of work.

Technically its 10k trailer gvw.