ford/new holland 1715 clutch issue

topofmichigan · Dec 11, 2022

Hi everyone, hopefully someone can help me. My tractor shifted gears and drove good. I bought it used and had it for a year with no issues. Since I bought it used I thought it would be a good idea to change the fluids. I decided to change the hyd/trans fluid first and when I did it was milky looking which told me it had water mixed in it. I changed the fluid using 134D universal fluid and changed the filter. After I changed it, it sat for a couple of days since I didn't need to use it. When I went to use it, it didn't shift like it had and I had to shift it while it was moving. I used it for about an hour and then parked it. A few days later I went to use it again and the clutch wouldn't disengage and the gears were just grinding. I did notice a whirring/whistling sound when began depressing the clutch petal. My question is, would changing the fluid cause this problem? Is it possible I used the wrong fluid? I got the spec both online and in the owners manual. If anyone has any ideas they would be greatly appreciated as I am looking at a $4000 repair estimate. Thank you for any help I can get.

azbinder · Dec 11, 2022

Who gave you a $4000 estimate, and for doing what?

zzvyb6 · Dec 11, 2022

It might be the Universal Fluid. Probably 40 wgt. Low Vis (30 wgt) is usually needed to make these things work properly. Friend of mine did the same oil in his kubota. Would not move. Drained out the Universal Fluid, put in the Kubota Low Vis and bingo !

Harry in Ky · Dec 11, 2022

The fluid type in this case has little if any bearing on the operation (or non operation) of a dry clutch. The 1715 has a gear driven 9 X 3 transmission. If you have a clutch problem, you have a clutch problem. It's not a "fluid type" problem.

jones6780 · Dec 12, 2022

The whirring/whistling is probably a throw-out bearing going bad. Will the clutch release if in gear? There are times when the clutch disk will get stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate. Some owners will put a block under the clutch pedal to disengage when not in use.

topofmichigan · Dec 17, 2022

azbinder said:
Who gave you a $4000 estimate, and for doing what?

Sorry it took me so long to respond my computer is not working the best lately. I got that quote from my local new holland dealer. I don't know any independent tractor repair companies. It was for a flywheel resurfacing, a dual stage clutch kit, new fluid and filter along with $1400 in labor.

topofmichigan · Dec 17, 2022

jones6780 said:
The whirring/whistling is probably a throw-out bearing going bad. Will the clutch release if in gear? There are times when the clutch disk will get stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate. Some owners will put a block under the clutch pedal to disengage when not in use.

Sorry it took me so long to respond, my computer hasn't been my friend lately. I thought that was the throw-out bearing I was hearing. I've had to change them in a stick shift before. When I put it in gear and tried to start it, it started to move forward, so I would say it didn't disengage. Do you know how I could find out if the clutch is stuck to the flywheel? Thank you for any help you can provide.

topofmichigan · Dec 17, 2022

Harry in Ky said:
The fluid type in this case has little if any bearing on the operation (or non operation) of a dry clutch. The 1715 has a gear driven 9 X 3 transmission. If you have a clutch problem, you have a clutch problem. It's not a "fluid type" problem.

Sorry it took me to long to respond Harry, my computer hasn't been my friend lately. Thanks for the feedback. I wasn't sure if it was a wet or dry clutch. If its a dry clutch I wonder why the repair shop would want to put new fluid in when I told them I just changed it. It just seemed strange to me that it worked good until I changed the fluid.

topofmichigan · Dec 17, 2022

zzvyb6 said:
It might be the Universal Fluid. Probably 40 wgt. Low Vis (30 wgt) is usually needed to make these things work properly. Friend of mine did the same oil in his kubota. Would not move. Drained out the Universal Fluid, put in the Kubota Low Vis and bingo !

Sorry it took me so long to respond, my computers been a real thorn in my side lately. The fluid I used wasn't labeled as universal like I thought, it is a SAE 20 or ISO 68 comparable utility tractor fluid, me bad. I did only have 5 gallons of that and used about 3 gallons of the universal fluid that had the 134D spec to top it off that I had used in my Yanmar. What's your thoughts on the 20 wgt? Thank you for your feedback and have a nice day.

Harry in Ky · Dec 17, 2022

Probably not the best combination to run long term, but certainly not the reason you have a clutch problem. Why would they recommend changing it again? Most likely because it's more hydraulic fluid than transmission fluid. Will it damage anything? Not really.

azbinder · Dec 17, 2022

topofmichigan said:
Sorry it took me so long to respond my computer is not working the best lately. I got that quote from my local new holland dealer. I don't know any independent tractor repair companies. It was for a flywheel resurfacing, a dual stage clutch kit, new fluid and filter along with $1400 in labor.

Did your dealer break down the parts pricing for you? T/O brg? Clutch assy.? Messicks has a rebuilt clutch assembly listed for $2579.10, but depending on how bad it is, you may not need the complete clutch assy,. Just the disc, which runs $180.48 rebuilt. Or there are shops that could relined the disc for less than that I would think. I'm trying to figure out the labor. I would think that the job could be done in about 8 hours. At $100 per hour that would be $800. Don't know if you are mechanically inclined, but you could save yourself quite a bit.

jones6780 · Dec 18, 2022

If you have enough travel on the clutch and it does not release then it is probably stuck/frozen to the flywheel or pressure plate. It can be broken free. Usually you would put something on the 3 point hitch that places a lot of drag on the tractor, even a brush mower cutting high grass. Then start the tractor press the clutch and let the drag break it free.

topofmichigan · Dec 20, 2022

azbinder said:
Did your dealer break down the parts pricing for you? T/O brg? Clutch assy.? Messicks has a rebuilt clutch assembly listed for $2579.10, but depending on how bad it is, you may not need the complete clutch assy,. Just the disc, which runs $180.48 rebuilt. Or there are shops that could relined the disc for less than that I would think. I'm trying to figure out the labor. I would think that the job could be done in about 8 hours. At $100 per hour that would be $800. Don't know if you are mechanically inclined, but you could save yourself quite a bit.

Thanks for the feedback. I checked the part number they used and it is for a dual clutch which did cost $1450 for two discs, throwout bearing and pilot bearing. I was thinking of doing it myself just nervous about getting it back together. Do you know if there are any clearance measurements involved? My service manual is on a CD and I haven't been able to look at it yet. I know I'll need a clutch alignment tool although I read somewhere that a socket extension would work. What are your thoughts on that? Have a nice day.

topofmichigan · Dec 20, 2022

jones6780 said:
If you have enough travel on the clutch and it does not release then it is probably stuck/frozen to the flywheel or pressure plate. It can be broken free. Usually you would put something on the 3 point hitch that places a lot of drag on the tractor, even a brush mower cutting high grass. Then start the tractor press the clutch and let the drag break it free.

Thanks for the feedback. I would have to start the tractor while it's in gear and don't know how well that will work, it doesn't start easily anyway. Could the same thing be accomplished by towing the tactor and working the clutch pedal at the same time? Have a nice day.

jones6780 · Dec 20, 2022

Yes, be careful it doesn't start. Some tractors have a viewport for the clutch. If it does you can block the clutch pedal down and maybe use a thin piece of wood to tap the clutch disk or a puddy knife. Not too hard as may cause damage

kirkawilson · Dec 20, 2022

I have never actually seen the clutch access port on my 1920, likely because it's behind the left loader mount. Your 1715 might have one there also. This thread has more info:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/176639-ford-1920-pto-clutch-fun.html

And there is a picture of the access port on this thread:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ing/356752-problem-splitting-ford-1920-a.html

billybobjimmyjoejack · Jan 19, 2023

I have a 1715 and have replaced the clutch twice (lots of loader work). The 1715 was only available with a single stage clutch, no two stage clutch is even available. Changing the clutch is not difficult, I would remove the loader first if you have one then you split the tractor at the bell-housing and then I would support the back half of the tractor on blocks and the front would be supported by a floor jack so it can be rolled away from the rear section. Then it is just a simple clutch job. I always block my clutch pedal with a 2" X 2" so it does not stick together, depress the clutch pedal and place the block between the pedal shaft and the underside of the step. There is no access port on the 1715 to check or free up the clutch. There is a hole in the bottom of the bell-housing that should have a cotter pin sticking out of it, this is called a "jiggle" drain and it should be checked so water does not build up inside the bell-housing.

ROUSTABOUT · Jan 19, 2023

Did you ever try to adjust the clutch? May be as simple as out of adjustment. When pedal is all the way up, should be 1/2"-3/4" free play before throw out bearing engages pressure plate. Don't say it don't happen. Fixed one last week, just needed adjusted.