Thank you, that is what I originally thought too but somewhere among the hundreds of posts I read someone said the time delay control only affects the PTO operation. I think I will troubleshoot that next. I just repacked 3 cylinders and screwed up and put the last ring in upside down. Wondering if I can get away with just using the blue seal that was in the bag in place of the seal with metal. I just watched YouTube video and it looked like he only used the blue seal. Anyone have knowledge on that as well.
JD 770 Fuel shut-off solenoid wont stay closed.
- Thread starter toni45
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Thanks, we do have the seat switch disabled or bypassed. That was done a long time before we had solenoid issues.
lots of things are in the fuel solenoid system, as you can see in these two drawings (old version stops at tractor serial number 105,92)
I have a PDF of the tech manual that you are welcome to before you keep throwing money at it!, if wanted, send me your email and it's on the way.
I'll message you my
You are correct!
ROUSTABOUT
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That circuit board looks to be all good. Does your pull on solenoid have three wires going to it?
yes
ROUSTABOUT
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Okay, one activates, one holds it on, one is neutral/ground. So if you un plug and check the tractor side, you should get ignition voltage at START. You can check RUN position also to find your problem. That should allow you to find which leg your problem is on. I just had same situation on a 150,000 watt generator at a farm. It works the same way. Has a circuit board too.
thepumpguysc
Elite Member
U can test the solenoid on your work bench w a simple battery charger and 2 alligator clips..
On the solenoid u have 3 wires:
Black is - ground always, for this application.. so go ahead and hook up the - from the charger to the black pin.
Next is RED.. u can remember this one by saying, RED IS RUN.. it’s a low amperage HOLD coil..
Hook up the battery charger + to the red.. it should pull in and hold the plunger.
If it does, take the wire off.
The last is WHITE.. it’s a HI AMPERAGE pull in coil.. and is temporary..
That coil is just for starting..
Hook your + up to it but your going to have to give it a push to get it to pull in..
battery chargers don’t normally have the amps to pull it and get it to hold.
If all those test work.. u need to look elsewhere for your problem..
Most of the problems I’ve found are with the replaceable RELAYS.. and in extreme cases, the key switch..
I hope this helps..
There’s SO MANY QUESTIONS about these 3 wire solenoids, the mods should consider making this “a sticky”..
On the solenoid u have 3 wires:
Black is - ground always, for this application.. so go ahead and hook up the - from the charger to the black pin.
Next is RED.. u can remember this one by saying, RED IS RUN.. it’s a low amperage HOLD coil..
Hook up the battery charger + to the red.. it should pull in and hold the plunger.
If it does, take the wire off.
The last is WHITE.. it’s a HI AMPERAGE pull in coil.. and is temporary..
That coil is just for starting..
Hook your + up to it but your going to have to give it a push to get it to pull in..
battery chargers don’t normally have the amps to pull it and get it to hold.
If all those test work.. u need to look elsewhere for your problem..
Most of the problems I’ve found are with the replaceable RELAYS.. and in extreme cases, the key switch..
I hope this helps..
There’s SO MANY QUESTIONS about these 3 wire solenoids, the mods should consider making this “a sticky”..
The circuit board looks to have burned on the blue bubble doodads at the top right which I believe control the seat switch.
