MItsubishi D1800 miss and white smoke

[Ster1]

I had a chance to putter with it this weekend. Weather’s getting tolerable So I’m back to running, but running the same as it was before. Now that I have 3 gaskets under the pump, it’ll be easy to take one out. Which in my case, should be good for about 4 degrees of timing adjustment. If that doesn’t make a noticeable change one way or the other, my issue has to be more about valve float or something like that.

 

[Ster1]

I puttered a bit more. Since I was back to where I was before, I took the injection pump back off, and took out one of those 3 gaskets I made. Just looking for any change. If I recall, each one was supposed to be worth 4 or 5 degrees? Anyway. It started pretty quickly, and now I’m running up to 1800, where 1500 was the limit last time, and full throttle seems smooth and no smoke. I think I could get 2000 out of it if I wanted, so I might take out more, I haven’t decided yet. But bottom line is, my issue did seem to be related to timing. What’s odd to me is that, assuming I have advanced timing 5 degrees and made it run better. How did the timing work before? How did that engine ever get to full rpm? Maybe it never did, I’ll probably never know.

I did notice a bit more clatter and engine noise at idle, but otherwise the engine seems a lot smoother. I’m calling this one a win! Thanks Maverick and Pumpguy for your help with this. MUCH appreciated!

 

[bmaverick]

Treat that K95 with love. There are really no more main replacement parts for it. It's difficult finding documentation on that engine too.

Glad you got things working better for the machine.

 

[thepumpguysc]

That “clatter” is called diesel knock and is associated w either timing, poor spray pattern in the injectors or fuel quality..
Keep a GOOD EYE on the temperature.
Running “to much” advanced will raise to temperature QUICKLY..and warp the head..& u don’t want that..

 

[Ster1]

Treat that K95 with love. There are really no more main replacement parts for it. It's difficult finding documentation on that engine too.

Glad you got things working better for the machine.

Thanks! That engine is the most difficult I’ve ever had to get parts for, you’re right about that. I spent probably 5 or 6 months locating that head, even talking to guys overseas. That one I got from Southern Global might be the last one in the world

 

[Ster1]

That “clatter” is called diesel knock and is associated w either timing, poor spray pattern in the injectors or fuel quality..
Keep a GOOD EYE on the temperature.
Running “to much” advanced will raise to temperature QUICKLY..and warp the head..& u don’t want that..

Good point about the temp! This machine doesn’t have a gauge, just an idiot light, which may or may not even be working at the right temp. Not too hard to actually install a gauge. Maybe that’s what I’ll do before I play with the timing anymore.

 

[bmaverick]

Good point about the temp! This machine doesn’t have a gauge, just an idiot light, which may or may not even be working at the right temp. Not too hard to actually install a gauge. Maybe that’s what I’ll do before I play with the timing anymore.

About heat with these Japan tractors. Don't use 15W40 as the engine oil. The thicker oil traps and hold heat in longer. These tractors are made to JIS standards and not SAE. 10W40 or 10W30 are better picks for summer oil use and 5W30 for winter use.

The Japan tractors typically use a vortex air inlet filter system. When the vortex spins too slow due to filter load, the engine gets hotter too.

The radiator screens and tube-n-fins must be 70% or better unblocked from debris.

People need to know these issues to keep these engines running cooler and not hotter.

Reference,

Numerical research on vortex tube separator for special vehicle engine inlet air filter

A two-stage inlet air filtration system used in the special vehicle combustion engine is presented. A comparative analysis of the filtration propertie…

www.sciencedirect.com

 

[Ster1]

Well,
You're not going to believe this. After all my screwing around with the pump and timing and all that junk, it turns out the tach was inaccurate all along. I was able to use a photo tach on the crankshaft pulley, and I found out that as the mechanical tach indicated 1500, the engine was actually turning closer to 2500. Indicated 1000 was closer to 1800, and indicated 500 was closer to 900. That jives with another forum where I read these engines don't idle below 1000. That photo tach sometimes gives crazy numbers, but if you take measurements 4 or 5 times, you can usually get 2 or 3 to indicate the same, and that's usually fairly accurate. So, anyhow thanks again for your help, just thought you'd like to know the "final" story