Ford 755?

[rScotty]

OK. Now that we know what it is... maybe.... or at least that the hoe is a 755. And 4500 will do for the rest until you find out differently

So the important question....How does it run? Does everything work?

And is that paint job yellow on blue or vice versa?

rScotty

 

[LD1]

The 755 was a beast based off the 5000 ford. The industrial versions were 5500, then 7500, then 750/755. And with a backhoe on they were ~18000lbs and nearly twice the machine as a 4500.

What you have is (99% sure) a 4500. They are ~12000lbs.

They were optioned with a few different backhoe "attachments". One of which is a 755. Which is classified as a 15' dig depth hoe. The 753 was also an option with a 13' dig depth but was more common on the 4400,

740 would be the model of the loader "attachment". And it was a fairly powerful loader for the size of the tractor. The hydraulic "reservoir" is the loader/backhoe frame itself that is made of tubular steel.

I had a 5500 (which became the 755) and it was indeed a 4-cylinder. Dad had a 4500. And while both were good machines, there was no comparison to size/heft and power.

 

[Swblack1216]

Thank you so much great reply. I love the comparisons in the pictures. A picture is worth 1000 words. I am anxious to get it going. It hasn’t started yet solenoid was bad went to purchase solenoid and it was as much as the starter so I got a new starter Picking it up tomorrow morning it turned but very slow. The screwdriver key was not doing it. I bring a knowledgeable mechanic with me. Hopefully I get it going and I can drive it home because I don’t have a trailer big enough. It’s only 20 miles wish me luck. .

 

[Swblack1216]

OK. Now that we know what it is... maybe.... or at least that the hoe is a 755. And 4500 will do for the rest until you find out differently

So the important question....How does it run? Does everything work?

And is that paint job yellow on blue or vice versa?

rScotty

It is yellow on rust unlike yours or your dad‘s the fenders are clamshell does that tell you anything different? I’m pretty excited my first tractor and only one I have owned is a Kiotii CK 25 I overwork it. Thanks again I’ve been on this forum two days and so far so good.

 

[LD1]

It is yellow on rust unlike yours or your dad‘s the fenders are clamshell does that tell you anything different? I’m pretty excited my first tractor and only one iPhone is a Kiotii CK 25 I overwork it. Thanks again I’ve been on this forum two days and so far so good.

No, you have the original fenders.

We made those on dads 4500 cause the originals were shot. So we just made em square. More functional

 

[rScotty]

Thank you so much great reply. I love the comparisons in the pictures. A picture is worth 1000 words. I am anxious to get it going. It hasn’t started yet solenoid was bad went to purchase solenoid and it was as much as the starter so I got a new starter Picking it up tomorrow morning it turned but very slow. The screwdriver key was not doing it. I bring a knowledgeable mechanic with me. Hopefully I get it going and I can drive it home because I don’t have a trailer big enough. It’s only 20 miles wish me luck. .

Keep the old starter & solenoid. They are easy & cheap to rebuild. And compared to a rebuilt older starter, the the new replacement ones don't have nearly the copper content. That means less power. to crank the engine.

Otherwise, slow cranking is the battery, but also renew all the ends on the heavy battery cables especially at battery, at solenoid, and the negative to the frame ground. File and sandpaper. No cost.
BTW, the ignition key switch only sends power to engage the solenoid, nothing about the key switch should affect how fast the starter turns.

Any old tractor is as good a teacher for electrics as you'll find. Check the oil and water. 20 miles is a piece of cake.
rScotty

 

[sd455dan]

these are the pictures from sale add .I had been looking to upsize from my Kioti CK 25 to help me park out the heavy under brush in my forested remaining 4 acres in pacific nw. This came up for 2000 grand and I’m off on a new learning experience. So much to learn so little time .thanks for your help.

You might get a kick out of this video series on a Ford 555 by Captain Kleeman, he started out with the very inexpensive parked 555 and has been a learning journey with included mistakes along the way for him as well. My 550 has been as well.

Good Luck and short of a destroyed block the engine parts are easily available.
Congrats and Good luck , once running that old Ford may teach a thing or two to the newer CUT

These are great older machines for folks who want a heavy duty machine at a low price ie. even better if you are a a good mechanic with more time than money.

Kleeman has done well since doing all of the mechanical was really fairly new to him.

 

[Swblack1216]

Keep the old starter & solenoid. They are easy & cheap to rebuild. And compared to a rebuilt older starter, the the new replacement ones don't have nearly the copper content. That means less power. to crank the engine.

Otherwise, slow cranking is the battery, but also renew all the ends on the heavy battery cables especially at battery, at solenoid, and the negative to the frame ground. File and sandpaper. No cost.
BTW, the ignition key switch only sends power to engage the solenoid, nothing about the key switch should affect how fast the starter turns.

Any old tractor is as good a teacher for electrics as you'll find. Check the oil and water. 20 miles is a piece of cake.
rScotty

I did keep the old starter and solenoid. My mechanic is going to rebuild it for me and we did get it started today. Saturday will be the drive home everything functions except for starboard side outrigger. A couple hydraulic leaks. Nothing major. Can’t wait to get it home and by the way, I noticed it’s yellow over blue, what does that tell you I’m just guessing that the year have no idea very excited. I don’t know why my wife isn’t. Thanks for your input as always I’m gonna get a new switch so I have a key and any suggestions as to owners manual service manual, I don’t want to pay $200 for printed service. Manual online would be fine , any suggestions also see Seats.

 

[rScotty]

Yellow over blue....I wonder if that means someone bought blue Fords and had them painted Industrial construction yellow? Strange.

I like the printed manuals because they are more mechanic shop friendly than an online device and tend to have much better resolution.
I usually get the service manual and the parts manual. For an experienced mechanic the parts manual is more useful for mechanical parts because it has better exploded diagrams. The service manual is better for hydraulic and electrical flow and schematic diagrams.

Best advice is to find some free ones online and keep your eyes open for some good old printed ones which do turn up in book stores and ebay. I like the ones in the ring binders.

Begin to get some big sockets - impacts and 3/4" drive minimum at used or restore shops. A "smoke wrench" aka oxy/acet. comes in very handy with old tractors.

You may want a new fuel filter for the drive home. Maybe just take one along, because changing fuel filters is a job for your mechanic - one wrong move and you have to bleed & reprime the system. No biggie, but repriming an old diesel takes either some practice or beginner's luck.

rScotty

 

[TractorTech]

Well, yellow over blue and the C7NN casting number in the block would make it a late 60s early 70s model. The very early industrials or at least the 3 and 4000 models had blue powertrains.

Also, canister style engine oil filter is pre spin-on.

6x4 manual reversing transmission is simple and reliable.

Make sure you inspect and grease the hydraulic pump driveshaft on the front of the engine. Also inspect and grease the steering mechanism in front of the radiator. Hopefully it has been greased previously and not worn out.