Help Me Design/ Build a Shop

[TimberFarm]

Medeek Design Inc. - Trusses

Medeek Design Inc. - Trusses

design.medeek.com

 

[hurricanoday]

We had a 60x40x12 pole building built in 2018 for just under 38k for the bare building (no big doors or concrete) crazy what it would be right now. Upgraded our house service to 320 so have a 200amp in the shop and 200 at the house. We turned one of the bays into a finished "office" with a bathroom and corner shower. (was a life saver when we built our new house) It has pull down stairs with a space for storage above. Also with the pole building they used the building as the frame for concrete.

Helps having a brother who is an electrician. Another forum mentioned having pull down outlets and even though we have outlets all along the back wall haven't used them once, the pull down are great.

One thing I didn't realize is the truss are not designed for ceiling load and it wouldn't have been much more to get it. (bad sales man) Even though now I don't think I would put a ceiling in with how much it costs. I didn't read through the whole thread so wasn't sure if there was specific information you were asking for.

Also don't let your friends work on their stuff in the shop =)

Didn't dig to deep for pictures but one of the finished shop and new house and some older ones of the shop

 

[Rhorn4400]

My experience build more than you think you need, it will be full in no time.

 

[Flogger]

I put up a 69x30x14 red iron building. I had the concrete poured and erected the building with the help of friends and family. I sub fed from my house and elected to use my SA259 Lincoln as my only welder to keep power requirements manageable. Kept the cost down and still got just what I wanted. Red iron buildings are an erector set for real life.

 

[whirledpeaz]

We are in the process of building a shop at the moment. Decided on postframe for cost. I was also concerned about post rot so I went with post protector sleeves. Maybe you would be interested in those.

 

[TimberFarm]

We are in the process of building a shop at the moment. Decided on postframe for cost. I was also concerned about post rot so I went with post protector sleeves. Maybe you would be interested in those.

Nice.
What size is that?

 

[whirledpeaz]

Nice.
What size is that?

Thanks. 30x40x14

 

[TimberFarm]

A lumber yard near me is selling packages with those metal roof trusses.
Doors 12x12?

 

[nknelsen]

I'd put up a pole frame barn and keep it simple definitely no plumbing. Then if you want a small shop to work on things add that on. Just use a smaller space for heating. Keep floor gravel and don't plan on a lot of storage or you'll wind up junking it up. Keep your tractors and indoor machinery there, maybe a welder plug. Folks try to make a building do everything and it's not feasible. If you want a photo or two I'll be glad to send....I've lived at my place over 40 years and keep it simple.

Yes please send me some pictures. I have a nice heatable barn now, but we are considering a move to NB. Might need to buy a house on a large lot and build a new shop. But I'm not sure where I'd begin. I'm looking for ideas.
Thanks

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

I might have found a compromise on the frame build for the shop. There is a local shop that specializes in metal shop buildings. They use I beam uprights, roll formed galvanized "C channel" gerts and fabricated trusses made with angle iron. All bolt together construction. They are more expensive than a pole barn but cheaper than a red iron building.

The owner hand draws all his prints and it's all custom made to print. I'm having him draw one up and quote it for me.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

I drew this up Friday and took it to the metal shop guy I mentioned above. Hopefully I'll have a quote this week. AAAAAnd I hope I can afford it since I'm already building the pad...

 

[EddieWalker]

I'll be curious what the 16x10 door will cost you?

How committed are you to just having the wainscoting on just the one side of the building?

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

18x10 door with opener is $4,726 without insulation or $5,470 with insulation. The opener is $1,165 of that, apparently it's gotta be big for such a heavy door.

The front is all that will be seen from the road and it's expensive. I didn't think there was a big reason to add that cost on the walls that won't really be seen.

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm paying almost $1,700 for 10x7 doors on my garage addition. I figured yours would be a lot more, but I didn't realize how much more!!!!!

I like the wainscoting, but to me, it looks odd if you can see two walls at the same time and one wall doesn't have it.

Sounds like you have put a lot of thought into your planning.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

The north wall is the front/ road side. West is blocked by the house, the road is dead end on the east side so visitors will not really have any reason to pass far enough to see the east wall, and the south wall is the back, who cares about that side right? But, yes, I agree with you. If money was no object I would have it on more than just the front wall, it would look better to me also.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

I decided on 50x40. The gable end will be 50 wide and it will be the front of the building. Cost was more than i was expecting and i ran out of shale for the pad. So I decided that extra 500sqft was just out of my reach.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

Pad is almost done. This is taking WAY more material than i thought.

 

[civilian]

You can always add on out the back gable. Jon

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

You can always add on out the back gable. Jon

It's designed just for that purpose

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

About time to dig footers. I can't find a machine with a smooth edge bucket that's small enough. Is it a huge problem to dig the footers with a toothed bucket?