Buying Advice Cab or no cab?

[Slowpoke Slim]

Cab.

Equal but opposite reason here (the cold here, but mine has AC as well, it is upper 90's this week).

Modern cab glass is like modern safety glass in cars (and trucks). Anything that would break an auto windshield would surely break a cab windshield.

I regularly push through brush and branches with mine. Unless your brain is switched off, you can ease your way through trees. I do it all the time. You obviously can't push aside branches the size of your thighs or torso, but I have slowly pushed through branches that would have you out of the seat of an open station.

There are a few small 25 horse cab units now that have airconditioning. There didn't used to be any. Kubota makes at least one now, don't think JD does (yet)? If you're on flat ground and running a hydro unit, you could always slow down if you get a drop in engine power while cutting grass or whatnot. It doesn't take much hp to just run a loader and a grapple.

I've never sat on a Kioti. Local dealer wouldn't even acknowledge I walked in his place of business, back when I was shopping.

I've never regretted my cab, even on "nice weather" days.

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

Well mostly cutting walking paths through the trees on our property. And there are piles of debris from past manual cleanups to push the woodline back from the house that I would like to move further back as that line has extended further outwards over time. Such piles become refuges for rats, and I would rather have them as far away from the house as possible. Of course something that I could use to reduce such piles to wood chips instead of moving the piles would be ideal.

I actually did watch videos of flail mowers or mulchers much like what you have linked to. Seem like a great idea for trail cutting. Sure do wish I could have something like that on the front of the tractor rather than the rear, however. Driving backwards for any length of time will be a killer on my neck. But honestly, this is something on my list of things to learn more about....

That is the one big disadvantage of tractors is that things like mulchers etc. mount on the back. I've spent 30+ years looking forward and at side mirrors so my body doesn't like back of the tractor work either. I bought a 6' 3-point snow blower last year and the first few times I used it were painful, but as the winter progressed it got less and less painful. Never quite reached the point of painless though. I'll have to wait 4 or 5 months to find out if this year will be easier.
Tractor dealers are all about a 2 hour drive from me, but I can do my own maintenance. If I ever need warranty work, I'll haul it myself. My tractor is light enough to fit a 10k trailer.
It sounds like you know what you want, but I'll offer my recommendations for a tractor with a loader.
1. Loaded rear tires for safety and traction.
2. A third function kit on the loader.
3. At least one remote on the rear
4. A Cab for comfort. (If it works for your application)
5. The most hp you can get in a tractor of the size you want
6. Unless you have a transfer tank, a fuel filler that is mounted low on the tractor. Five gallons can get a little heavy. If not, then a small transfer pump.

 

[arrow]

Here's what I tell my customers looking to answer the same question.
1. How often would you need to dismount the tractor during your work?
answer: if often, open station is better. If hardly, cab.
2. Climate: sometimes we have customers who are going to move to a different climate. Warm= cab. Cold= cab.
3. Floral /fauna: Bugs=cab. Woods with density= open station. Open woods=cab.
4. Air and heater. Air seems to have more of an effect on hydros as opposed to shuttles. For small tractors, hydro is much more of a power robber but only as it applies to needed push/pull and ground engaging implements.
5. If you were my customer and helping me understand your usage with considerations of all of the above,
I would recommend a cabbed tractor with a small grapple with considerations for a shuttle type tranny.
If you have bad knees, hydro.

Also, if you wish for a smaller tractor, I would be looking more for weight than hp.
As I have always maintained, a 4000 lb tractor with 14 hp will out work a 2000 lb tractor with 37 hp if pushing and pulling. Pto output like cutting grass, then its the lighter but more hp unit.

For what you've explained thus far, I do not believe you need a larger 35-40 hp machine.
There are 25 hp units out there that with loader and weighted ballast, can weigh 4000lbs with sizing able to maneuver easily in wooded terrain.

 

[LouNY]

To the OP if you even start to contemplate a skid steer, it shouldn't take but about 3 minutes for you to toss that idea right out.
Just contemplate the acrobatics required to enter one of those things, climbing over the bucket or squeezing in behind the attachment. Then clambering up into the opening of the cab, and stepping down from door frame and twisting around in that narrow footwell to face back to the front.
Skid steers are for the young limber crowd. Not for an older person with a bit of arthritis and maybe a bit extra girth.

 

[arrow]

How close are you to Thomasville? The more eastern one that is.

 

[Yander]

For the work that you described needing to do, I think you're 25 horsepower is fine.

There is quite a lot you can do with that size tractor. if you would have said you're clearing your woods that's a whole other story.

We have a 50 horsepower tractor on the farm with a cab and we have woods. No way am I taking that tractor into the woods.

I always use my Yanmar SA425 in the woods. It is open station and can do an incredible amount of work for its size.

My recommendation would be a Yanmar SA 425 or 325 with the front grapple. They do have a cab model. I would also look at the Kioti mentioned above.

A lot of guys on here recommend horsepower based on your acreage. I feel like basing your horsepower needs on your usage is more accurate.

 

[oosik]

I live in NE WA state - like 3 Horse Ranch. I agree with his recommendations. I have an open station tractor with a canopy. It gets HOT but not humid. If I lived in N Florida, I'm pretty sure I'd have a cab. Too many bugs and just too humid. If I drove my tractor - naked - bugs might be a problem.

Just the OPPOSITE of Yander. I have no problems taking my M6040 into my woods. My 80 acres is 100% Ponderosa pines. Generally speaking - there is room to negotiate between most all the trees. In a few cases I might have to lop off a limb or two.

However - I very seldom have any reason to be driving thru my trees. I can drive thru the open areas and get most any job done.

 

[Tractorable]

The Kubota LX series cab, Kioti CK cab, or Yanmar YT235 cab would be about the size he’s looking for. They’d be about 4000lbs with loader, cab, and ballast. I’d hedge towards a 35hp machine to ensure he has the hp needed.

 

[D&D]

To the OP if you even start to contemplate a skid steer, it shouldn't take but about 3 minutes for you to toss that idea right out.
Just contemplate the acrobatics required to enter one of those things, climbing over the bucket or squeezing in behind the attachment. Then clambering up into the opening of the cab, and stepping down from door frame and twisting around in that narrow footwell to face back to the front.
Skid steers are for the young limber crowd. Not for an older person with a bit of arthritis and maybe a bit extra girth.

Unless you can find a JCB. That’s exactly why I got rid of mine and didn’t buy another.

 

[TN8Man]

My first tractor was a 35hp open station but in the summer heat, humidity and bugs of middle Tennessee it could get brutal sometimes and fatigued which is not good when operating a tractor. I also needed a little more horse power so I could run a stump grinder. So I got a 50hp cab Kioti and never looked back.