trailering your utility tractors

[WranglerX]

Another thought is tie down points...... I have a Carson 7000 GVW tandem axle trailer when it came there was NO REAL TIE DOWN POINTS..... Only stake pockets... I had 5/8 inch diameter steel "U" shaped loop welded to each corner of trailer because it was a real pain to put the hooks on my stripe into staker pockets and alway seemed to mess up the hook latches....... So in my thinking its not just number of securing straps/chains but also anchor points on trailer.... IT also has no battery and break away switch for electric brake's in case it got loose from tow vehicle, so I added one, but that is another story...

Front of Trailer

Rear of trailer.

 

[Bentrim]

Have not kept up with the laws, but back in the 70's and 80's the dealers I worked at used chains and overcenter binders. Even the large tractors (150 + hp and 18,000 pound or more) only used two chains.
The best chain on the back pulling back and one on the front pulling forward. With the excess chain wrapped around the binder.

Never had any loose loads, never lost a load, or had a binder open.

Was always told to pull the binder, don't push it over. Saw a man push one and he got wacked in the face!!

Why the best chain on the back? You can stop faster than you can pull out!

 

[4570Man]

Have not kept up with the laws, but back in the 70's and 80's the dealers I worked at used chains and overcenter binders. Even the large tractors (150 + hp and 18,000 pound or more) only used two chains.
The best chain on the back pulling back and one on the front pulling forward. With the excess chain wrapped around the binder.

Never had any loose loads, never lost a load, or had a binder open.

Was always told to pull the binder, don't push it over. Saw a man push one and he got wacked in the face!!

Why the best chain on the back? You can stop faster than you can pull out!

A snap binder works fine on a load like a tractor with flex in the tires. They don’t work as good with a solid load that won’t flex any. One trick I learned is if you pull the chain through the tie ring and hook it back on itself you can adjust the tension half a link at a time which reduces the problem of being stuck between loose and super tight like often happens with a whole link adjustment.

 

[JWR]

Another thought is tie down points...... I have a Carson 7000 GVW tandem axle trailer when it came there was NO REAL TIE DOWN POINTS..... Only stake pockets... I had 5/8 inch diameter steel "U" shaped loop welded to each corner of trailer

Excellent approach. On my larger deck-over Pequea trailer there is a perimeter rail the entire length of the trailer on both sides. That allows you to tie down anywhere along the length of the trailer and at "ideal spots." I think several good brands of trailers use the perimeter rub rail design which is hard to beat. With my smaller 14' Stagecoach brand trailer the frame about 18" above the deck is heavy pipe and (like many utility trailers) the sides are expanded metal webbing/heavy screen. SO, that allows me to use 3/8" steel cable loops any where I want them along the sides of the trailer for tie points. Each cable loop uses about a foot of cable secured using bolted U-clamp cable clamps. Rats no picture. I also use vinyl tubing covered cable to minimize rust, stab wounds from steel cable, etc. Certainly stainless cable would be nicer. These cable loops work nice with strap binders or chain or just about any binder choice.

 

[CliffordK]

I thought I'd look up binders for log trucks here in Oregon. I haven't paid that much attention to them lately, but I know they used the snap type binders years ago.

OAR 437-007-1015 - Binders and Wrappers — Oregon Administrative Rules

OAR Division 7, Forest Activities; Rule 437-007-1015, Binders and Wrappers. Refreshed: 2021-06-08

oregon.public.law

https://osha.oregon.gov/OSHARules/div7/div7K.pdf

I don't see anything indicating a prohibition of using the snap type binders. The one note is:
"Binders must be removed from service when: The yoke is spread", and only the snap type binders have a yoke, and not the ratchet type binders.

Keep in mind, for log trucks, the binders wrap around the logs, and don't secure to the trailer, at least for the stinger trailers.

There is a slight difference between binders on logs and binders on a tractor or on materials. On the log truck, the binders would always hang down, and thus are less likely to pop loose. On a tractor or cargo, they're often used more in horizontal which may have a greater risk of popping loose.

I've either wrapped excess chain around the binder handle, or tied it down with a short piece of wire. My wrapped chain did slip down once but not enough to risk losing my load, chain, or binder.

 

[CliffordK]

Another thought is tie down points...... I have a Carson 7000 GVW tandem axle trailer when it came there was NO REAL TIE DOWN POINTS..... Only stake pockets... I had 5/8 inch diameter steel "U" shaped loop welded to each corner of trailer because it was a real pain to put the hooks on my stripe into staker pockets and alway seemed to mess up the hook latches....... So in my thinking its not just number of securing straps/chains but also anchor points on trailer...

View attachment 816119

That looks nice. U-Bolts? You can also purchase weld-on tie downs that pivot up and down.

I always like the bed to be flat so stuff can overhang a bit. Usually in front or in the rear, but occasionally I'll get a pallet that will barely overhang the side.

My trailer has a paucity of tie downs. I use the stake pockets (channel iron) quite a bit. One of my first mods on the trailer was to round all the corners of the stake pockets to be safe for ratchet straps. Ratchet straps can also simply hook over the channel iron.

Everything (including my winch) gets chain hooks, so no hook latches. I usually pull enough chain through the pocket to hook the chain back onto itself. My tractor bucket also has chain hooks welded to it, but unfortunately the shape was wrong and they're a pain to use (probably cut down chain hooks). I need to cut them off someday and put weld on type hooks.

 

[CliffordK]

How does 12 miles make a difference? What if it’s 13 miles? Do you tie it down differently for 12 vs 13? Now matter if it’s 1 mile or 1000 miles the driver is totally responsible to assure the load will not shift. Way too many catastrophes because “ I was only going 5 miles”. I know of a skid steer that was being moved less than 2 miles on a trailer. Made it 300 yards down the highway and dumped it Into the oncoming lane of traffic. Another incident where the guy was repositioning a trailer less than 20 feet. It was loaded with a JohnDeere tractor. Didn’t secure it properly and sent it off the trailer and it rolled out into the roadway. Don’t be an idiot. Tie it down in every direction it could possibly move.

True... somewhat.

Make sure when you park your tractor on the trailer that it is parked with the bucket down, in gear and with the parking brake engaged. That'll help for a few feet down the road.

If I'm towing 1000 miles, and hitting major mountain passes, I like to add a few more redundant straps, and still regularly check the straps.

More stuff can go wrong over longer distances. A broken strap, worn strap? Lost a binder?

My vehicle loads don't seem to shift sideways, but I am very careful to run straps or chains forward and back to keep them from rolling either direction.

 

[DeathMerchant]

HD Ratchet straps, one in each corner.

 

[Blue Mule]

Here's another question do you use chains and lever binders or heavy ratchet straps to hold down your tractor on the trailer? Also do you use 2 in the front and rear or just 2?

I haul mine in my enclosed trailer. I do have to fold the ROPS but that's not a big deal. I use fabric straps, one at each corner. Never had an issue.

 

[check]

A lot of companies have banned the use of lever binders in their business due to the potential that they can 'pop' open. While I still have my old lever binders, I switched to ratchet style years ago after I had a number of instances where they did come loose.

I just duct tape them closed.

 

[WranglerX]

That looks nice. U-Bolts? You can also purchase weld-on tie downs that pivot up and down.

I always like the bed to be flat so stuff can overhang a bit. Usually in front or in the rear, but occasionally I'll get a pallet that will barely overhang the side.

My trailer has a paucity of tie downs. I use the stake pockets (channel iron) quite a bit. One of my first mods on the trailer was to round all the corners of the stake pockets to be safe for ratchet straps. Ratchet straps can also simply hook over the channel iron.

Everything (including my winch) gets chain hooks, so no hook latches. I usually pull enough chain through the pocket to hook the chain back onto itself. My tractor bucket also has chain hooks welded to it, but unfortunately the shape was wrong and they're a pain to use (probably cut down chain hooks). I need to cut them off someday and put weld on type hooks.

Not "U" bolts.... 5/8 bar stock heated and bent around a section of pipe to create the "U" shape....

I actually use 4 ratchet straps (2,500lb working load - 10,000 burst) left over from race car days and tie down to chassis points....

 

[Dmacleo]

know bureau of land management has banned the use of them on their vehicles for a few years

 

[Dmacleo]

my straps are 1500lb rated and in good shape, if carrying implement (eg tiller) I use 5th strap on attachment. on the 14ft trailer I mounted eye bolts through the metal of trailer. put about 20 iirc in the trailer, front, sides, floor,etc

 

[CliffordK]

my straps are 1500lb rated and in good shape, if carrying implement (eg tiller) I use 5th strap on attachment. on the 14ft trailer I mounted eye bolts through the metal of trailer. put about 20 iirc in the trailer, front, sides, floor,etc

I've mostly started using 2" ratchet straps rated at 3300 lb working load, and I think 10,000 lb break strength.

I just got some that claimed to be for 5 tons, but they are barely heavier than the 3300 lb straps.

I tried a couple of smaller straps a year ago. Most of them bent themselves up with the first use... disposable straps...

I'll do a little more researching good quality straps soon.

I did get a couple of heavier 4" straps, but they seem awkward for most of my loads. I may weld some 4" ratchets onto the trailer sometime.

In the past with boating I used a lot of cam straps. No ratchets. They worked nice for the application, but at least for larger straps the ratchets work well. Perhaps use the cams for 1" USA made straps.

 

[mk2133]

REF TRACTOR TIE DOWNS AND HAULING: I moved everything on wheels in my 37 years is the shipping business. Lesson#1: No distance to too long or short to correctly secure your equipment on your trailer. You just don't know what can happen, even in your own neighborhood. Lesson #2: Stay away from cheap straps, Harbor Freight is not selling quality straps in packs of 4. Lesson #3: Chains are fine, binders are not. I have seen more teeth knocked out and jaws broken using them than i can count. A ratchet binder is the way to go or a heavy duty ratchet strap, 3"-4". You only have to put out the bucks for a good set once. Lesson#5: when attatching your chain/strap to your equipment, secure it high enough to ensure it won't fall over in transport. Lesson #6: The BEST way to secure your load from moving in ANY direction is the cross your lashings left to right, right to left, at 45% out from the equipment. Lesson #7: After you have secured your load, do a walk around, test each lashing. Lesson #8: if your traveling a long distance, take a break or when you stop for fuel, check your load, don't assume anything. Follow these basics and you will never have to worry about your load and have peace of mind while traveling.

 

[WranglerX]

REF TRACTOR TIE DOWNS AND HAULING: I moved everything on wheels in my 37 years is the shipping business. Lesson#1: No distance to too long or short to correctly secure your equipment on your trailer. You just don't know what can happen, even in your own neighborhood. Lesson #2: Stay away from cheap straps, Harbor Freight is not selling quality straps in packs of 4. Lesson #3: Chains are fine, binders are not. I have seen more teeth knocked out and jaws broken using them than i can count. A ratchet binder is the way to go or a heavy duty ratchet strap, 3"-4". You only have to put out the bucks for a good set once. Lesson#5: when attatching your chain/strap to your equipment, secure it high enough to ensure it won't fall over in transport. Lesson #6: The BEST way to secure your load from moving in ANY direction is the cross your lashings left to right, right to left, at 45% out from the equipment. Lesson #7: After you have secured your load, do a walk around, test each lashing. Lesson #8: if your traveling a long distance, take a break or when you stop for fuel, check your load, don't assume anything. Follow these basics and you will never have to worry about your load and have peace of mind while traveling.

Have to disagree with Lesson #6..... No cross straps...

 

[bcp]

Crossed straps/chains are very good for load stability, but poor if one breaks or comes loose.

Belt and suspenders: Use both cross and parallel tie downs.

Bruce

 

[aczlan]

I have heard that the lever style binders are no longer legal (federally) for commercial carriers. Federal regs do not apply to non commercial carriers although some states may use them as guides.

Do you have a source?
Everything I can find just goes off of the rating (ie: doesn't matter the type of tie down, just has to be properly rated), if it is not rated, it is assumed to be the lowest rating for that size device, so a unmarked 3/8" welded link chain would be assumed to be grade 30).
There are some State agencies who have chosen not to use lever binders, but that's probably due to the costs of workers comp cases from employees getting injured by them.
FMCSA rules do require that whatever you use to secure cargo not be able to loosen or release itself in transit.
Source: Cargo Securement Rules | FMCSA

Aaron Z

 

[Too many Kubotas]

This was a scary thread to read, especially the first half or so.

I'm surprised that so many are apparently oblivious to the forces involved, even if nothing unplanned happens.

 

[Dmacleo]

I could get into a dual axle boat trailer blowing tires (3 days ago) and almost hitting my truck....but I wont.all I will say is fking people suck.