What size tractor can we get by with?

[Stormy873]

We acquired a B8200 and proceeded to impoverish ourselves trying to take care of all the deferred maintenance. All in we have almost $6000 in a litany of fixes, all new hydraulic hoses, new water pump, rebuilt loader cylinders, refurbished gas tank, new water pump, custom fabricated rear wheels and brand new tires…and last week the hydraulics quit…had it hauled into the local dealer and $806 later they said there was water in the hydraulic fluid….brought it home started it up, lifted the loader and hydraulics proceeded to quit working again. Now, we are almost $7k into a tractor and I’m voting it’s time to move on. She’s been a good girl, but She’s a very expensive date.

So, we know we need at least a marginally larger tractor as the B8200 is about 18HP and it has always been really expensive to try and find attachments suitable for that small a tractor. Our needs are fairly simple. We need to loader for cleaning my sheep barn and for moving snow, and we need to be able to disk up our pasture to rehabilitate it. We have lots of rodent damage but the lay of the land is Flat and our acreage is smaller. We would anticipate renovating 1 Acre at a time and we will not be plowing because the topsoil is shallow and we don’t want to kick up any more rocks that we have to. We would like to be able to run a rear offset grade blade not simple back blade but one with adjustable offset illustration attached but we can’t find one that is suited for a smaller tractor. A snowblower would be heaven but unlikely.

With that in mind, will a 25 HP work or will we be much happier with a 30Hp? We are only looking at geared tractors at this point. I have a personal thing against anything that wreaks of having a CVT or hydrostatic drive…Thanks for any and all feedback.

 

[jeff9366]

Your Kubota B8200 has a bare weight of around 1,500 pounds.

In my experience owning three compact tractors it takes a 50% increase in bare tractor weight before you can feel a significant increase in tractor capability. If you agree with this proposition your options are in the Kubota L2502/L3302/L3902 range, which weigh 2,700+ pounds. Tractors of 2,700 pounds bare weight are suitable for use on 1 to 10 flat acres.

I recommend a three shank All Purpose Plow for your pasture renovation. Dirt Dog and Bush Hog both offer three shank APPs. You will need a 2,700 pound bare weight tractor to pull a three shank APP.

LINKS:

dirt dog all purpose plow

bush hog all purpose plow

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There are very few 30-horsepower tractors available. After 25-horsepower engines jump to 33-35-horsepower.

 

[Eagle1]

Another question how big of a frame will work in your sheep barn. May be a real limiting factor. I kept my BX for those tight spaces the much bigger LS is not useful.

 

[2manyrocks]

I started off my buying quest thinking I preferred a gear drive L2501, but based on the recommendations of other members, I bought the HST which is insanely better for loader work.

By the time you price a L2502, you might be surprised that the TYM T474 48 hp 4x4 can be had in middle TN for $25,000 for the sync shuttle and $25,800 for the HST version. Another member was able to buy a similar Branson model with a cab in his area for $29,000.

 

[CADplans]

BIG mistake not considering a hydrostatic,, especially for your type work.
i have both,,
I let my novice son-in-law use the hydrostatic anytime he wants it,,
The pic is his first ever attempt at using a landscape rake, after an excavator took out a bunch of trees,,

BUT,,
he NEVER gets near my gear drives.

Hydro is just so much easier to do work with,,

You will have fewer mechanical failures if you have a hydro,,
especially if you use a loader,,
Loaders are hard on gear drive tractors.

 

[paulsharvey]

I am biased, but a Kioti Ck2610/ck2620 will do everything you old machine does, plus a lot more. I paided $20,500; which was the cheapest 'full figured' 25hp machine I found. The TYM 2515 is a bit bigger, a bit more money, but IMO a bit less refined (seat, loader controls). You shouldn't look past the MF1526. It's a bit smaller body sized, but seems like a good machine.

The smaller Tym T25/RK25 would probably out perform the old Kubota you have, but I think your giving up a lot of lift, ground clearance, and overall beafyness, for a $2500 savings (oh, and a 3 range HST vs 2 range).

Given your ground engaging work; an MF1835E 8x8 syncro shuttle might be a good fit, but its $27k including a loader.

Don't know your budget, and since I'm spending your money; an MF 1840M power shuttle, ag or R-14 tires, is what I'm ordering on your dime , but its around $35k the way I would spec it out (MSRP)

 

[scootr]

Plus 1 more for a Hydrostatic trans. I've owned a few operated a few more. My first hydrostatic was love at first use. So much more controllable and generally better in tight quarters too!
A little bigger than the minimum will serve you longer. Good luck with the search.
PS. shop new/used locally. You can find deals with low hrs. and addons that would cost much more at a dealer****.

 

[jeff9366]

The two omissions that absolutely trash tractor resale values are a traditional clutch and gear transmission and the omission of a Loader.

 

[oldballs]

I'd say that 25 HP in any of the colors metioned would serve your needs.....as long as you can manuever in/out of the barn....HST of course.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[rScotty]

We acquired a B8200 and proceeded to impoverish ourselves trying to take care of all the deferred maintenance. All in we have almost $6000 in a litany of fixes, all new hydraulic hoses, new water pump, rebuilt loader cylinders, refurbished gas tank, new water pump, custom fabricated rear wheels and brand new tires…and last week the hydraulics quit…had it hauled into the local dealer and $806 later they said there was water in the hydraulic fluid….brought it home started it up, lifted the loader and hydraulics proceeded to quit working again. Now, we are almost $7k into a tractor and I’m voting it’s time to move on. She’s been a good girl, but She’s a very expensive date.

SNIP

With that in mind, will a 25 HP work or will we be much happier with a 30Hp? We are only looking at geared tractors at this point. I have a personal thing against anything that wreaks of having a CVT or hydrostatic drive…Thanks for any and all feedback.

There is no way for water to get into the hydraulic fluid unless it set outside uncovered for years and the fluid was never changed during all that maintenance..... which is not likely given $6000 worth of work.

The B8200 is a good tractor, and it ought to be pretty much new after that kind of expense. if it runs OK, I'd be for replacing the hydraulic pump and trans/hydraulic fluid. That's an easy afternoon's work and about $400 for the pump and $300 for the fluid and another hundred for filters... Then see what you have.

At this point you would be betting another thousand bucks against $30,000 new. That's a bet I'd take.
But I'd do the work yourself. Or change mechanics.
rScotty

 

[jyoutz]

BIG mistake not considering a hydrostatic,, especially for your type work.
i have both,,
I let my novice son-in-law use the hydrostatic anytime he wants it,,
The pic is his first ever attempt at using a landscape rake, after an excavator took out a bunch of trees,,

BUT,,
he NEVER gets near my gear drives.

Hydro is just so much easier to do work with,,

You will have fewer mechanical failures if you have a hydro,,
especially if you use a loader,,
Loaders are hard on gear drive tractors.

So true. I’ve had several dealers tell me that they do far more tractor split clutch replacements than HST repairs.

 

[Notforhire]

The B8200 is a good tractor, and it ought to be pretty much new after that kind of expense. if it runs OK, I'd be for replacing the hydraulic pump and trans/hydraulic fluid. That's an easy afternoon's work and about $400 for the pump and $300 for the fluid and another hundred for filters... Then see what you have.

At this point you would be betting another thousand bucks against $30,000 new. That's a bet I'd take.
But I'd do the work yourself. Or change mechanics.
rScotty

I'm in agreement here. The tractor as it sits is not worth much. Fix it and it may be a good fit for you. I think the do it yourself, or change mechanics idea may be the way to go.

 

[5030]

I bought the HST which is insanely better for loader work.

Not really. I find a hydraulic shuttle to be a much better alternative myself. All the advantages and simplicity of a gear drive and no dry clutch to wear out plus instant forward and reverse.

 

[dieselscout80]

Saying you are going to work one acre at a time doesn’t tell the whole picture.

How many total acres is your place?

This will tell what size implements you may need.

 

[paulsharvey]

There is no way for water to get into the hydraulic fluid unless it set outside uncovered for years and the fluid was never changed during all that maintenance..... which is not likely given $6000 worth of work.

The B8200 is a good tractor, and it ought to be pretty much new after that kind of expense. if it runs OK, I'd be for replacing the hydraulic pump and trans/hydraulic fluid. That's an easy afternoon's work and about $400 for the pump and $300 for the fluid and another hundred for filters... Then see what you have.

At this point you would be betting another thousand bucks against $30,000 new. That's a bet I'd take.
But I'd do the work yourself. Or change mechanics.
rScotty

So, If it's similar to my L285; 100% Can and Will get water in hydralic around the shift lever if left out in rain. What this leads too; is you end up with an emulsion-slime build up in the transmission. Then, slowly (or not so slowly) as the trans warms up, it gets loose and stuck in the very fine mesh of the hydralic filter. You clean the filter, but it (very slimy), but there is a ton of emulsion-slime still in reservoir. Then you randomly have to clean again and again. Each time, avoiding getting air in the hydralic lines or letting air out, under pressure (not really that safe, and not much fun).

Edit: not trying to speak for our OP, but I Think their issue, is, they want/need a Reliable tractor, that works when they hit the key, they want their hobby/side hustle/profession to be working With the tractor not On the tractor. Very similar to when I finally upgraded in June. I got $2000 for my used L285, being honest with buyer, only attachment was a homemade middle buster plow; and I used that $2k to cover all the down payments on the brand new Ck2610 HST, which I only regret when I make a payment. (it's not even that bad, but I do feel a bit guilty making the payment, and only putting 10 hours/month on it)

 

[paulsharvey]

Saying you are going to work one acre at a time doesn’t tell the whole picture.

How many total acres is your place?

This will tell what size implements you may need.

Not really. I find a hydraulic shuttle to be a much better alternative myself. All the advantages and simplicity of a gear drive and no dry clutch to wear out plus instant forward and reverse.

Agee, but only problem (or maybe not a problem for our OP); the cheapest, smallest, power shuttle, that I'm aware off, with a loader, is approx $37,000 MF1840M. Maybe I'm missing a more budget machine, maybe our OP has that money, But, based on what they said, I would Certainly test one out I'd the budget makes sense.

 

[Panik]

Another question how big of a frame will work in your sheep barn. May be a real limiting factor. I kept my BX for those tight spaces the much bigger LS is not useful.

^ This right here. I've got 10 acres with a lot of tight spaces, a very good bit of uneven ground and do a good bit of loader work with my bx. Over the last 10 years I've had many occasions where I've day dreamed about having a larger tractor.

Hoever, the reality is that I also have to work in a lot of tight spaces that would preclude something like a big B or small L. Also, the low center of gravity of the Bx in combination with filled tires and an appropriate ballast has been a godsend for the slope changes on my property.... even in the woods. I can slip through and navigate a lot areas of the wooded section of my land, where with a bigger tractor I would have to be cutting trails.

Were I in you situation I would:

- Try to figure out what size you can comfortable maneuver in the sheep barn
- Consider dealers within transport distance (with an eye for good maintenance support)
- And then start comparing the heaviest tractors and most capable brand/model tractors for your needs that fit within the above criteria.

* I a pretty big fan of Kubota... HOWEVER, there are at least a couple other brands (Branson & cousin brands, Kioti, etc) that put out comparatively heavier & potentially more capable tractors in the sub-compact/compact classes.

Also, as an FYI, while I don't run an offset blade I do own and heavily use an Everything Attachments offset rock rake that weighs ~ 450lbs with the concrete ballast I've added. It gets pressed in service pretty often for grading clay soils and also re-grading ~600' hundred feet of gravel driveway. It's not a perfect solution with my Bx, but the combination is surprisingly capable..... point being, don't get too hung up on size as a measure of power/capability. Weight to hp ratio is probably a better measure of capability in terms of ground engagement and/or manure+bedding scraping ability.

 

[shooterdon]

Although I have an LS, I would be looking at the TYM machines. They seem to be well built, have good specs, and decent pricing. I had a look at their 2515 and liked it.

Like others have said, the hydrostatic would be my choice.

BTW, like you, I got tired of spending money fixing a "beater" tractor I got cheap. Unless you can work on them yourself, it gets expensive, and on most of the older machines, parts can be difficult to get and pricey.

You will be amazed at how much more capable a larger machine is and also safer.

 

[mikester]

Buy the cheapest used geared tractor you can find that will run the implements you want. Doesn't matter what you choose. When it dies buy another one. Park the old one on your front lawn.

 

[big bubba]

The two omissions that absolutely trash tractor resale values are a traditional clutch and gear transmission and the omission of a Loader.

unless the tractor is M series. but yes, agree trash is trash in a tractor, regards