Working under the tractor

[hosspuller]

Bears repeating... beware the front axle of a tractor. It pivots, so allows the tractor to tilt. (unless the pivot is blocked) lifting the rear wheels on ramps is much more stable.

 

[CliffordK]

Bears repeating... beware the front axle of a tractor. It pivots, so allows the tractor to tilt. (unless the pivot is blocked) lifting the rear wheels on ramps is much more stable.

I use the bucket (bucket forks) on my tractor for hauling and moving all sorts of things so I've blocked the pivot. It is a bit odd for driving, but a lot safer for the bucket.

The pivot shouldn't matter much if one pulls the tractor up on 4 ramps. But, it could be a pain for jacking and using jack stands. It still would be OK as long as one always keeps both sides of the rear end supported.

 

[frogpond]

I am grateful, gentlemen, for all these good ideas, especially the ramps with detachable parts. Although I suppose I could simply raise the tractor with its own hydraulics, put hefty wood blocks under the rear wheels and jack stands under the frame in front, and lower it. To get back in operation, just reverse the process. However, the ramps would also be useful for the zero turn.

 

[CliffordK]

As far as plastic ramps, I would also be skeptical, although I would hope that Eastwood would do some quality control on the ramps they sell. Plastic should be strong if well designed and built.

Plastic Legos for under trailer jacks are common.

As far as the detachable steel ramps. I have an older set that I inherited, probably 20 or 30 years old by now. I don't use them a lot, but it seemed like a good idea for the tractors. The steel Ironton ramps popped up with searches, but may be discontinued.

Buckets are a very handy feature on tractors, but they always get in the way during maintenance. And, for the most part it is better to put the bucket flat on the ground, than lifting it when working on the tractor.

 

[John0829]

for the most part it is better to put the bucket flat on the ground, than lifting it when working on the tractor.

If it must be lifted to work on the tractor be sure to block the lift cylinders so it cannot drop. A piece of angle iron cut so it will lay onto the length of the exposed rod, tied in place is works well for this.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I bought one of these 4 post lifts 10 years ago:

BendPak HD-9ST Four-Post Lift - 5175860

Purchase the 9,000-lb. BendPak HD-9ST four-post lift that offers the same power and safety features of the HD-9, but in a smaller package.

www.bendpak.com

The ramps are adjustable for smaller width vehicles.

Pricey, yes, but they can also be used for storage which frees up valuable floor space.

I now have 3 of these lifts which are used mostly to store implements. This saved the cost of putting up a new building.

 

[336Steven]

Can you straddle a ditch? i.e. poor man’s pit?

 

[halm]

Nobody has mentioned a pit. Sometimes methods work best, no falling.

 

[Slomo928]

I have just finished another oil, transmission fluid and filters change, and transmission fluid strainer cleaning on my Kubota BX25D. And I have previously done several one-off jobs like relocating that damned fuel filter.

I hate to admit that I'm getting old enough to dislike scooching under there while wrenching, but there it is.
What do you use to raise the tractor enough for comfort, while making sure it's stable enough to be safe? I have a creeper, but this tractor is too low to use it.

I have a floor jack and jack stands, but I imagine it should be level to drain the fluids, and I don't think 4 jack stands feels very stable. I looked at 2-post hydraulic lifts, but they are expensive, and require serious installation, and I'm not sure they even fit a tractor. Digging a pit is out of the question; it would quickly become a pond.

Would 4 ramps from HF or an auto parts store be the answer? I imagine that the total weight with loader and backhoe is about 3k pounds.

I have BX25D. Floor jack and jack stands work fine, completely stable on a hard surface like a concrete floor. Remove backhoe and FEL before jacking up. Yes, the front axle pivots but this is not an issue if the front axle jack stands are set at the same height. Buy quality jack stands. It’s your butt under there.

 

[mmranch]

I use railroad ties cut to about 4' long.

I position the rear ties behind the rear wheels and back the tractor up onto the ties. Use the FEL to raise the front wheels then position the front ties and lower the front wheels onto the ties. Then put the bucket edge down as well as the brake lock on and wheel chocks on top of the ties if necessary.

I also have multiple jacks for further jacking when I need to raise the wheels off the ties.

Use this setup for most servicing tasks... works great.

 

[DieselBound]

For a "real" tractor there is generally enough room to get underneath. I use a rolling oil pan/cart (17 gallon, I think); no need to lift to get it under anything.

I spent months working around and under a car during restoration work. Only had it up on jack stands: had blocks on wheel dollies, allowing me to shift around as needed, as safety supports. Tried to get my hands on a lift but the company's response (US company!) to a question I had was so stupid that I wasn't going to give them any of my money: I've survived for many years without lift and I shall continue on doing the same.

Recently had to do a repair on my riding lawn mower and did like other here: ramps on the rear and jack stands on the front. A bit of a pain as I had to remove the rear axle; if I had to do this on a regular basis I'd look for a better solution.

 

[John_Mc]

Those detachable ramps are a great idea! I did not know they existed.

Another thing I've found: for a lot of the work I do, getting down on the ground is just one way of working on it. Another way to access a lot of this is while sitting on a low rolling stool. It doesn't work for everything, but a lot of what I need to reach can be done from the stool. (Added bonus: no oil or debris falling in your face.)

My wife has this one for her woodworking shop, which I borrow on occasion. Inexpensive ($30)

Mechanics Roller Seat

Amazing deals on this Mechanic'S Roller Seat at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

They also make one that looks very similar, but is more comfortable ($40)

Mechanics Roller Seat

Amazing deals on this Mechanics Roller Seat at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

And they go up from there, including a $115 Icon model with adjustable height and higher load capacity:

Professional Adjustable Shop Seat with Tool Storage, Red

Amazing deals on this Pro Adjustable Shop Seat, Red at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[ttouring]

Check Amazon for a "magic creeper " it works really goood if you ever have to be on the ground like in the field. It's padded and it will let you slide on it on the ground. I keep one in road tool box.

 

[Williy]

If the drain plug is in the back of the oil pan I would just raise the
front end to drain the oil. You could also make your self some
wooden ramps to drive your tractor on. Do you really have to
crawl under your tractor to change the oil? You can't reach the
drain plug from the side?

Have you though about putting your creeper in front of your tractor
and reaching under to undo the drain plug? It looks like the drain
plug is right behind the axle and this way you would have the front
end to grab hold of to pull your self up.

Make sure you have the oil filler cap off or loose so the oil will flow
faster.

willy

 

[crazyjake8493]

I have a creeper but it never gets used for vehicle or equipment work. I find it easier to lay out a yoga mat and lay on that with plenty of room, rather than squeeze under with a creeper. My tractor has plenty of room to get under. If I need to pick up other equipment to work on (snowblower, generator, riding mower, etc), I use the tractor!

 

[masscity]

When I change engine oil I just put a couple of drain pans under the engine to drain both sides of oil pan and filter.

When I change my hydraulic oil I have 4 ramps made from 2x6. My tractor isn't high enough to put 5 gal pails under it. I have 3 drain plugs, I drain the back two first and get about 1 1/2 gals each, then I drain the front one and get almost 5 gals. Total is 11 or more, so almost 3 gals remains. I've done this twice now and will do it again this spring.