Returning batteries for warranty claim

[Hay Dude]

900CCA NAPA “Legend” Batteries dated 11/23 are at 12V and 700 CCA.

In 50* temps, they don’t have enough a$$ left to turn tractor over, so I took them back to NAPA.
NAPA dealer says “leave them overnight and we will test CCA tomorrow after long charge”.

They hook a NAPA tester up to it now and it says 12V 702CCA on one and 12V and 698CCA on the other.

I’m sure an overnight charge will bring them back to life, but will it last?

I’ve had to jump them a couple times and after tractor is running, makes about 13+ on the voltmeter and theres no electrical system light on.

 

[MTGreen]

Not helpful for your current situation, but next time buy from Costco. Interstate batteries free replacement within 3 years no questions asked

 

[MossRoad]

Have your alternator tested at that point.

 

[Hay Dude]

If my tractor is showing 13.4+ on voltmeter and I have no trouble light on as stated, why would it be alternator?

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

On something like that I usually humor them the first time. The sucky part is the time it takes to remove them an make the trip to the parts house twice.

 

[Rustyiron]

Isn't a properly charged 12v battery supposed to be +/- 12.4 to close 13v?

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

I'm with you on the alternator, if you are getting over 13v running, it's fine. Batteries are stupid and it seems like they just get worse and worse.

 

[fatjay]

Pepboys has a good battery policy. I walk in with a battery that has a date that isn't reached yet and walk out with a new one in about 5 minutes.

 

[LHF2019]

All I use are NAPA batteries. Always good luck with them and get them from my mechanic. Let him deal with the warranty. He doesn’t remove the stickers and can manipulate the warranty if need be.

 

[Hay Dude]

Isn't a properly charged 12v battery supposed to be +/- 12.4 to close 13v?

They’re tryin to tell me 12V and 700CCA on a 900CCA battery is considered “good”.

When the tractor is not running, I see 12V.
When the tractor is (jump) started, I see 12.7 then 12.9, then 13.1, then 13.4, etc.

 

[MossRoad]

If my tractor is showing 13.4+ on voltmeter and I have no trouble light on as stated, why would it be alternator?

Your batteries are only 5-6 months old. They still have the CCA that they're rated for after they're charged. So you know the batteries are good.

The next step in troubleshooting would be to check all your connections again, and have your alternator load tested. It should put out at least 13.8 volts. Closer to 14V.

 

[Hay Dude]

Your batteries are only 5-6 months old. They still have the CCA that they're rated for after they're charged. So you know the batteries are good.

They’re rated for 900CCA and currently have 690-700CCA

The next step in troubleshooting would be to check all your connections again, and have your alternator load tested. It should put out at least 13.8 volts. Closer to 14V.

Yes, I know that.
It is putting out high 13.4 and more volts. with engine running.I don’t consider that a sign of alternator failure.

 

[MossRoad]

Good luck.

 

[Rustyiron]

Time to get pissy

 

[Lineman North Florida]

Big difference in 700 CCA and 900 CCA , I had a tractor battery that started that and I could slow charge it overnight and get a few days out of it but then right back to failing to start the tractor, it was out of warranty so I replaced it and not another problem for the last 2 years and there wasn't anything wrong with my alternator either.

 

[California]

Get the alternator tested by a pro.

I learned one of the three(?) alternator diodes had failed, after putting up with dim headlights on the elderly Subaru over a couple of years. It always started readily so I hadn't suspected the charging system.

I expect your charging voltage should be higher.

 

[oldnslo]

Does NAPA have new batteries in stock? If yes have them check the CCA of new vs your batteries. Should provide a good basis for how much they have decayed during your use.

 

[WranglerX]

For what its worth a typical alternator working properly puts out it best amperage at 14 (plus ) volts.. Anything less you are not getting enough "over voltage" to properly recharge battery....

IF you are not getting batteries up to 14 plus volts after considerable run time, I suspect bad alternator or your voltmeter is lying to you.... This is if dealer test find nothing wrong with batteries.....

Todays lead acid batteries (flooded cell) and not near the quality as they were years ago.... I have found getting AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) batteries not to much more expensive but a little more reliable....

 

[jaxs]

I have live data readers on dash of my trucks that read 14+ after plug heat and crank then progressively drop to as low as 13v on long daytime trips. Retailer has the right to put battery on charge before making a warranty decision but high volume outlets should have instruments to test without long charge. If possible I put batteries on smart charger to see if it will reach at least 12.5 before taking in for warranty. Since I began using Deltran Tenders several years ago 90% of batteries last well beyond warranty. When warranty has expired but battery still performs I replace it and put it on something non-critical. Both batteries on a Ford truck were replaced after 4 years and continued to do duty until one failed at 12 years old. Since the day a kid at parts store load tested my battery while truck was running I'm particular who gets under the hood.

 

[number two]

Legend batteries usually test above CCA when new.
Decent East Penn/Deka product.
I would also like to see about 14 volts fairly soon after starting.
A fully charged 12 volt battery will show 12.6 volts at rest-2.1 volts per cell/6 cells.
Perhaps a winters worth of use undercharging by a bit has taken some of the life out of them?
Good Luck!