Returning batteries for warranty claim

MoArk Willy · Apr 8, 2024

Around here we have O'Reilly auto.
Since I started buying batteries there I haven't had an issue.....no more Walmart for me.
And I try to bring them in just before the warranty expires and let them check it.
The pro-rating usually saves me a few $$$.

sixdogs · Apr 8, 2024

Robfnk said:
...............
Does any one make a decent battery any more?

That's my question too. Daca brand was mentioned earlier but where do I find them?

aircommuter · Apr 8, 2024

Hay Dude said:
900CCA NAPA “Legend” Batteries dated 11/23 are at 12V and 700 CCA.

In 50* temps, they don’t have enough a$$ left to turn tractor over, so I took them back to NAPA.
NAPA dealer says “leave them overnight and we will test CCA tomorrow after long charge”.

They hook a NAPA tester up to it now and it says 12V 702CCA on one and 12V and 698CCA on the other.

I’m sure an overnight charge will bring them back to life, but will it last?

I’ve had to jump them a couple times and after tractor is running, makes about 13+ on the voltmeter and theres no electrical system light on.

Charge the batteries and take them to some place that has a Mid Tronics 600 series tester. That’s what I have in my shop. The spread from 900 cca rated to 700 is too far. As for the alternator voltage is good but amperage is also important. System drain is also important as are bad connections. You must do an analytic approach to problems. I always say you must understand the problem before you can solve the problem.

Hay Dude · Apr 8, 2024

Robfnk said:
just replaced my 2nd Travelers made by interstate in a year. 1st one only made it 2 months 2nd one lasted 10 months. Tractor Supply replaced them no questions asked but it gets old having to change them out. Does any one make a decent battery any more?

I don’t think so. I am having problems with newer batteries in dump truck and now tractor.

Hay Dude · Apr 8, 2024

Walter Clark said:
A fully charged flooded cell lead acid battery should read 12.7 (12.64) and a 100% discharged should read 12.07. In both cases this is with no load. The voltage of a fully charged battery should only be read a few hours after the charge is complete, or has been "rested". Same for a load test. Doing either right after a charge will give false higher readings.

These batteries will charge with anything over 2.15V per cell (12.9V for a 6 cell 12V battery) applied however the time needed to reach full charge at 12.9V is enormous. Typical charge voltages from most constant voltage alternators is more like 2.3-2.35V per cell (13.8-14.1V for a 12V battery) as this will get a battery somewhat discharged from starting back to a reasonable state in a couple hours without risking boiling the electrolyte from overcharging. That said, I have encountered a few charging systems where it appears that battery life wasnt really considered and the output voltage was low (as in 13V) but adequate for the implement to operate. My Kubota is like this. Smart battery chargers will usually monitor charge voltage and/or current and apply more than the 14.1 early in the cycle and ramp that down over time as the battery charge state increases so as to shorten charge time but avoid the boiling problem encountered with electrolyte heating from excess current.

What does this have to do with your problem.

Your 13V output alternator most likely isnt really charging the battery to anywhere near 100% in the time you have the tractor running. It might not even be putting back as much as you used to start it up. This means that over time and multiple startup-operate-shutdown cycles your battery average charge state keeps getting lower and lower. Eventually this may lead to a battery that is at the 0% charge level (12.05V) and it wont start the tractor. Over time lead acid batteries (flooded or AGM) left at anything below 100% charge will sulfate which reduced their ability to function, and the battery usually needs to be replaced. So, in your case, assuming you cannot raise the alternators operating voltage to the 13.8-14.1 voltage, You need to plan to put it on a smart charger between uses. Even with 13.8-14.1 alternator output, if the tractor sits for long periods, a maintenance charger is going to be a good idea.

My Kubota battery lives on a charger between uses and over the last 30 years I have only had to replace the battery twice.

Yes, aware, but like I have said, I do NOT know what the alternator is putting out because I can’t start it and rev the engine to check. lol
I DO know at idle it was 13.4. That was pretty normal in my years of tractoring.
I also know the automatic battery kill switch (turns off all current from batteries) is functioning.

I also think because the batteries won’t start the tractor even with a good jump starter, there’s something I have not yet discovered.

Hay Dude · Apr 8, 2024

acarr1 said:
I sell commercial truck batteries and also handle all the warranties. I’m not a mechanic but I’m pretty sure you should be getting about 14-14.5 volts when you check the battery while it’s being charged by the alternator. And at least 12.6 while the engine is not running. Also if you let a battery fully discharge (go dead) and then charge it back, you’ve done damage to the battery that can’t be repaired by simply charging it back up. Most battery “warranties” are not a defect in the battery itself but damage done by the customers equipment.

I realize you don’t know this, but I just bought the tractor 3 weeks ago. The seller put the set of batteries that we are discussing in the tractor in about 11/23. So they aren’t very old.

I’m just getting to know the tractor. I had it running beautifully last week, but the batteries have been a bit of a challenge.

The weird thing is, in all my years of running tractors (over 40 years), I can kind of tell when the starter won’t generate the revs needed to fire over a diesel engine. It seems like it’s close to making enough, but not quite.

I think I’m going to replace them. If that solves the problem, I will take their dead batteries back and tell them they are FOS.

If the new batteries don’t start the tractor, then I’m onto the next step, I guess.

I wouldn’t mind getting a “second opinion” on them, but I am SOL on time. I’m working Sundays after church as it is and getting home at 6-7PM every night.

howardjohn · Apr 8, 2024

Not sure if any one made this suggestion. It could be the starter windings. Happened to me on my case backhoe. New battery would barely turn over. Would start when jumped. Thought it was a bad battery had it tested battery was good. Auto parts store said probably the starter, changed starter worked fine. I like interstate batteries myself. Had some last over 8 years

Hay Dude · Apr 8, 2024

Starter actually sounds good.

Just now remembered one thing that might be causing a problem. This compound battery terminal lug isn’t able to be tightened to my satisfaction. It’s not loose, but it’s not tight, either.
Again, I’ve spent maybe an hour with this tractor figuring things out. Picked up on this when messing with the batteries last time and forgot to mention it.

Of course that has nothing to do with batteries that may be no good, but if one terminal isn’t making proper contact, it’s not helping.

WranglerX · Apr 8, 2024

Hay Dude said:
Starter actually sounds good.

Just now remembered one thing that might be causing a problem. This compound battery terminal lug isn’t able to be tightened to my satisfaction. It’s not loose, but it’s not tight, either.
Again, I’ve spent maybe an hour with this tractor figuring things out. Picked up on this when messing with the batteries last time and forgot to mention it.

Of course that has nothing to do with batteries that may be no good, but if one terminal isn’t making proper contact, it’s not helping.

View attachment 861394

That may not be the problem, BUT, BUT, BUT, that is certainly not good, it may be big contributor to your problems....All the gunk and corrosion need to be cleaned to bright and shiny surface, treated with a soda solution to neutralize any acidic condition and the all exposed surfaces and busses and studs need to be treated with a anti corrosion compound.... All bolts, nuts and such secure..... I use a product called NO-OX-ID to treat all my battery and ground connections, I don't have any corrosion problems, only some ugliness from dust and dirt collecting on grease.... One tube of this will probably last you a life time and help on all the batteries you will ever use....