Returning batteries for warranty claim

[BillyB196]

900CCA NAPA “Legend” Batteries dated 11/23 are at 12V and 700 CCA.

In 50* temps, they don’t have enough a$$ left to turn tractor over, so I took them back to NAPA.
NAPA dealer says “leave them overnight and we will test CCA tomorrow after long charge”.

They hook a NAPA tester up to it now and it says 12V 702CCA on one and 12V and 698CCA on the other.

I’m sure an overnight charge will bring them back to life, but will it last?

I’ve had to jump them a couple times and after tractor is running, makes about 13+ on the voltmeter and theres no electrical system light on.

Not NAPA, but had two DieHard® Gold Batteries (Made by Johnson Controls) purchased back in 2021 that did not fair well over the winter and had similar challenges as yours. Put them both on a long 24 hour charge and one worked well for a bout two week and went south again, and Advanced replaced it with an new one, the other is still cranking good. I think there are a a lot of variables (design, manufacture, usage, alternator, etc.) when it comes to batteries and it's def worth a try.

East Penn Manufacturing, makes most NAPA Batteries
Johnson Controls, makes DieHard Batteries
Johnson Controls, makes Interstate Batteries
Johnson Controls, makes Duralast Bateries

 

[WM75Guy]

When I was on the Fire Department I did extensive work with an emergency vehicle alternator manufacturer down the street from the station. We did field testing with our trucks, ambulances, and staff vehicles. These were high output alternators for the time, 250A to 350A output, both negative and positive ground. Our vehicles had anywhere from 2 to 4 batteries.

A fully charged automotive battery should have between 12.8V and 13.2V. The alternator output should show 1V above that. If your battery is at 12.4V then your alternator output would show 13.4V, if working properly. While voltage will drop after starting the vehicle, it should get back to normal fairly quickly.

If they charged your batteries and they are below 12.8V they need to be replaced.

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

...next time buy from Costco. Interstate batteries free replacement within 3 years no questions asked.

I just had to do this and it's not quite that simple. They nipped me for the price difference between then and now. Still a good deal overall.

I had a 5th wheel trailer that kept killing batteries. Despite the dealer-installed DC disconnect, there were parts of the circuit that remained live (why?). The ultimate solution was a disconnect at the batteries and a solar system to maintain them.

 

[acarr1]

I sell commercial truck batteries and also handle all the warranties. I’m not a mechanic but I’m pretty sure you should be getting about 14-14.5 volts when you check the battery while it’s being charged by the alternator. And at least 12.6 while the engine is not running. Also if you let a battery fully discharge (go dead) and then charge it back, you’ve done damage to the battery that can’t be repaired by simply charging it back up. Most battery “warranties” are not a defect in the battery itself but damage done by the customers equipment.

 

[TexasMax]

900CCA NAPA “Legend” Batteries dated 11/23 are at 12V and 700 CCA.

In 50* temps, they don’t have enough a$$ left to turn tractor over, so I took them back to NAPA.
NAPA dealer says “leave them overnight and we will test CCA tomorrow after long charge”.

They hook a NAPA tester up to it now and it says 12V 702CCA on one and 12V and 698CCA on the other.

I’m sure an overnight charge will bring them back to life, but will it last?

I’ve had to jump them a couple times and after tractor is running, makes about 13+ on the voltmeter and theres no electrical system light on.

Same problem on my MF 1135 batteries from Atwoods except they will replace if within the life ( )with no question asked.

900CCA NAPA “Legend” Batteries dated 11/23 are at 12V and 700 CCA.

In 50* temps, they don’t have enough a$$ left to turn tractor over, so I took them back to NAPA.
NAPA dealer says “leave them overnight and we will test CCA tomorrow after long charge”.

They hook a NAPA tester up to it now and it says 12V 702CCA on one and 12V and 698CCA on the other.

I’m sure an overnight charge will bring them back to life, but will it last?

I’ve had to jump them a couple times and after tractor is running, makes about 13+ on the voltmeter and theres no electrical system light on.

We have been using DuraStart batteries from Atwoods Farm Supply and if they are within the warranty life. Atwoods replace with no questions asked. It a fine farm supply store and much easier place to find supplies but they are usually Texas and Oklahoma based.

 

[Dan.Cassidy]

CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) is a rating of the battery's output at 0 degrees fehrenheit.
CA (Cranking Amps) is a rating of the battery's output at 32 degrees fehrenheit. Big difference!
Batteries should be tested before and after charging. Slow charging, like 2 amps, is best but takes a long time. Charging overnight is not uncommon.
So, if these battery's are 900 CCA (not CA) and fully charged, 700 CCA is not enough.
Any auto parts store would test your batteries.

 

[MoBetta]

900CCA NAPA “Legend” Batteries dated 11/23 are at 12V and 700 CCA.

In 50* temps, they don’t have enough a$$ left to turn tractor over, so I took them back to NAPA.
NAPA dealer says “leave them overnight and we will test CCA tomorrow after long charge”.

They hook a NAPA tester up to it now and it says 12V 702CCA on one and 12V and 698CCA on the other.

I’m sure an overnight charge will bring them back to life, but will it last?

I’ve had to jump them a couple times and after tractor is running, makes about 13+ on the voltmeter and theres no electrical system light on.

Did they use a load test? Please double check your ground connection and cable. If it is a wet cell battery(has caps to maintain fluid level), an old country trick I have used for years is to remove all the caps and have someone crank the unit while I watch in the cells(wear Protection).If one bubbles a lot, it could a shorted cell. Good Luck!

 

[jiggseob]

The idea of the battery store leaving the battery on-charger overnight, then taking charger off and immediately testing next day is hoakey at best. A real test would be put battery on-charger overnight, take off-charger, and leave for 2 weeks then test amperage output. That would be a replication of how end users actually use a battery, and a reasonable test of fail or pass of battery function.

Inside the battery, there may be partial sulfation. That is little crystals of suphate salt that have formed and bridged between the positive and negative plates, creating a small short inside the battery, causing it to go totally dead over a relatively short (2 week) period of time. Such a fail-condition should be covered by warranty.

The take-off-charger and immediately test amperage output does not test the "charge holding" function of a battery. The seller does not want to test charge holding because he knows it will fail and cost him the paperwork of putting it through warranty.

 

[Paul McILwain]

I would be suspicious of the starter drawing too many amps, may not be a battery or charging system problem at all

 

[troverman]

I've had pretty good luck with the Napa Legend batteries. Just replaced a set in my 2003 F-550: both batteries that died were from early 2017; they were the AGM variety. I put two new identical 750CCA AGM Legends in the truck.

Alternators are interesting. The voltage regulator sets the charge point. I have installed a Leece-Neville 230A large case unit in both my diesel Fords. In both cases, they charge at 13.9v unless the battery is very low - it will then go above 14v.

 

[terrtay]

Hello, in charging a battery that is depleted, you really need to have an alternator output of 14 to 14.5 volts. A 13.8 volt output will keep you going if the battery doesn't become depleted. ie... sitting too long or any other reason that causes lost charge.

 

[Redlined0002]

900CCA NAPA “Legend” Batteries dated 11/23 are at 12V and 700 CCA.

In 50* temps, they don’t have enough a$$ left to turn tractor over, so I took them back to NAPA.
NAPA dealer says “leave them overnight and we will test CCA tomorrow after long charge”.

They hook a NAPA tester up to it now and it says 12V 702CCA on one and 12V and 698CCA on the other.

I’m sure an overnight charge will bring them back to life, but will it last?

I’ve had to jump them a couple times and after tractor is running, makes about 13+ on the voltmeter and theres no electrical system light on.

Batteries don't have any reserve capacity. Tell them that. They are no good no matter what you do to them. I am a wiring expert on farm equipment and anything with DC voltage. I have had to return several this past winter.

 

[longmtnman]

I agree with those leaning towards battery failure and those saying low alternator output. Since lots of other possible causes have been entertained, I would check the alternator belt tension. Some slippage could result in your low voltage (and amperage) output and early demise of your batteries. A loose belt could be a simple issue that is causing two innocent items (batteries and alternator) to be condemmed. Just throwing a possible free solution.

 

[Been there]

Greetings,
Two thoughts - - -
1.) Over time I've become a strong advocate of modern 'smart' battery maintainers. (Not the old-fashioned dumb 'trickle chargers'.) They aren't all that expensive compared to a new battery, and they are especially important for equipment that isn't being used frequently.
I have an old '47 Farmall M that doesn't get used all that often, but it is always on an inexpensive low-amperage battery maintainer. The battery is currently 9 years old and seems to be in good shape.
The same holds true for my more modern equipment, even the riding lawn mower. Their batteries are not a problem, even after a long winter storage.
2.) The world needs a good "HOW TO" book on batteries.
There is so much superstitious knowledge and mis-information out there about batteries.
We need a good reference source for practical people - something written by a group of reasonable but knowledgeable authors. A chemist, an engineer, a physicist, a mechanic, a consumer, etc.
If you know of any good references, I'd love to hear about them.

Regards to all.

 

[terrtay]

I forgot to say, A battery with a 12 volt static voltage is considered almost fully discharged. You can find a chart on the web showing battery voltage and the state of charge

 

[Bob435]

Chart has already been posted earlier by another reader. Not going back rereading post to find the chart.

Thank you to the SOC chart poster. I save the image to print out later.

 

[jiggseob]

If when connected to only the suspect-battery, the starter cranks real slow, or does not crank at all, and then when connected to a jumper battery, the starter behaves properly and starts the tractor, the problem is probably not the starter. If the starter is fudged and drawing too much current, the cable to the starter will get hot smoke and the starting of the engine will be pretty much the same whether a booster-battery is connected or not.

 

[Gator6x4]

Seem strange to me that the battery on two pieces of equipment failed simultaneously. The OP stated the engine will turn over and black smoke is coming out the exhaust. I suspect contaminated fuel is playing a part in the no start because it sounds like the engine is turning over or rotating but no start and the battery is discharged trying to start the unit.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

Yeah I'm surprised mine doesn't have 3 batteries. It's an 8.4L diesel. When it's cold, it's a tough crank

You may laugh when I tell you this but back before I retired I have actually jumped off big hi-line bucket trucks with large diesel engines with a fully charged Milwaukee 18 volt battery and a piece of 12/2 romex wire when we were out in the middle of nowhere with minimal access , sometimes just a little extra can get it done.

 

[Robfnk]

Not helpful for your current situation, but next time buy from Costco. Interstate batteries free replacement within 3 years no questions asked

just replaced my 2nd Travelers made by interstate in a year. 1st one only made it 2 months 2nd one lasted 10 months. Tractor Supply replaced them no questions asked but it gets old having to change them out. Does any one make a decent battery any more?