FEL WeedWacker

[J_J]

A motor spool will let the hyd motor free wheel when you shut off the hyd.

Detent allows one to turn the motor on and let it run with out holding the lever to on.

Motor spool and detent can be on the same spool.

Pb will allow full pressure to build downstream.

The hyd motor should have a relief whether it is on the valve or across the motor itself.

If your valve has multiple spool for different operations, the valve itself has a relief valve for all the spools. If you want a lower relief on the hyd motor, install it across the hyd motor.

You will need a gage to set it.

As far as hyd motor speed, there should be a happy medium in relation to the speed of the motor and the string length. You really are trying to achieve a string tip speed to do the job at hand, whether it is to cut just grass, or cut small saplings and heavy weeds, and not break often.

You might try different size string, round, square, or splined. Some just cut better than others. I have used string as large as .155 in diameter.

If the line is to heavy, or too long, it may wrap around the shaft, and you can usually hear the sound you want when the string is fully extended, and everything is cutting right.

 

[gtrippleb]

Dusting off this thread... I want to make this... Has there been a Mark II version?

I have the hydraulics and I can figure out the mounting to the tractor. I might need more help on attaching the string trimmer / blade. First off, would you be interested in making the part for me? :laughing: (let me know how much...) Or Do you have more details about "...made an adapter on my mini-lathe..." so I can see about maybe getting it done locally here.

Essentially what you will need is a piece that can mount to the shaft on the motor and the other end can accept a bolt as you will more than likely be using the bolt to tighten the trimmer head to the shaft. If you have a weed eater, you can look at how the string head is attached to the shaft.

Here are some pictures of what the RC folks use when using a weed eater motor in the airplanes. This is from http://wackerengines.com

 

[gtrippleb]

If you look at this picture, you can get an idea of what you need. I assume copndoc3 machined it so the end would fit in the hole on the blade. Looking at the PVC piece that holds the string, you can see this edge on the top of trimmer head.

Looking at this picture, this is the bottom piece that sandwhiches the blade. It has a hole in it that the bolt can go through to thread into the adaptor.

This picture shows the adapter mounted to the engine shaft. As you can see the adaptor slides over the shaft from the motor. The cotter pin holds them together.

 

[kubotakid USA]

I think if you install a gauge you will find that your only running 3-500 psi, at the most, my fence line mower will have two hydraulic weed whip motors running in oppisite directions, so the post is cleaned on both front and back as you pass it, Iam using a hydraulic drivin front mount deck,. the spring back motors are mounted in the right front corner of the deck, over laping the deck cutting width I designed this trim mower for my sister who opperates a 65 acre certified organic farm, She pastures sheep NO CHEMICALES are alllowed on certified organic farms, Or, ROUND UP is the best solution, she has nearly 2 miles of electric fence, and weeds are a problem with electric fences, I dont have any pics to share, but will post when I do. Eric

 

[copndoc3]

Dusting off this thread... I want to make this... Has there been a Mark II version?


Also, Is this the motor you used?
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-1365&catname=hydraulic

Love that price... looking forward to this project. :thumbsup:

Also, after using it a bit... is there anything you would change or modify? (have it stick out more or less?)

No "Mark II" version, Mark I seems to do the job quit satisfactorily.

Yes, that is the motor I used.

Perhaps the only thing I would change, would be to make some sort of quicker mounting system. It does take a little time to bolt everything up and hook up the juice hoses. Haven't had any issues with the nylon strings as long as you don't hit any metal, then they kind of break off and have to be replaced, but that was expected anyway. I just pre-cut a bunch of strings and threw them in the tractor tool box when I was using it. If one broke , I just replaced it and went on.

 

[teg]

Thanks for getting back with me... I'll be making my list for surplus center... bits and parts, placing an order soon.

 

[tglass]

No "Mark II" version, Mark I seems to do the job quit satisfactorily.

Yes, that is the motor I used.

Perhaps the only thing I would change, would be to make some sort of quicker mounting system. It does take a little time to bolt everything up and hook up the juice hoses. Haven't had any issues with the nylon strings as long as you don't hit any metal, then they kind of break off and have to be replaced, but that was expected anyway. I just pre-cut a bunch of strings and threw them in the tractor tool box when I was using it. If one broke , I just replaced it and went on.

Used this motor too, and after a little time the shaft broke, thought it might be to small in the first place, and a string or wire rope didn't work well for to long either. I expect to hit fence post and if mine will not hold up or reverse movement I've built it wrong. Finally started over and mounted a lawn mower engine on mine so I wouln't loose hyd. to the cutting motor or 3-pt. Still it is hyd. extendable to 30", spring loaded to flex around t-post, but still has alot of things to overcome for safety reasons and simply do not like to have a lawn mower engine doing the cutting when I have a full hyd. system capable of it.The idea of mounting it on the loader is great, alot more precision cutting from the seat.just don't quite understand the mounting and how I could make it extend sideways for bush trimming etc. around the house. This could also be used to trim hedges with the proper design. Keep working on it..like to hear more.

 

[tglass]

Anyone have a reply onto using a heavier motor to run the trimmer or using a mower blade?

 

[N8ghz]

This thread is interesting and I may also build one.

It is no surpirse that the motor shaft is not designed for this kind of loading.

If I were to build one, I'd think in this direction:

sort of a small-scale version of the hydraulic brush-hogs for mowing along country roads. They have a plate/block housing with I suppose, 2 tapered roller bearings to support the cutter shaft. The motor just spins it.

This small weed-eater thingy would not need giant bearings, but tapered-roller (outer auto front wheel type?) would be my choice and looked at.

For the shaft, I'd use a shaft coupler that the motor would plug into and modify it to run in the 2 bearings and the bearing hub.

I am thinking a complete front hub from a compact car that is not front drive would be a good start followed by a little lathe work.

 

[teg]

Thinking about using this motor...
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-6618-8&catname=hydraulic

Using a pulley mounted on the shaft... drilled to hold the string.

 

[Gator6x4]

Well, I finally got tired of walking around 16 acres of fenceline with a weedwacker to trim grass. I tried the Roundup treatment too, but got tired of getting wet with the toxic mess. So, I decided to build a weekwacker that I could mount on the front end loader of my Kabota B2710 and weedwack in style and comfort. :thumbsup:

I build a bracket to mount a small hydraulic motor that would also "give" in case of contact with a fencepost. I plumbed into a single, detented control valve that hold the motor on in either forward or reverse motion and mounted it near the FEL valve.

The bracket is made from 2"x2" modified angle iron (see photo) that pivots outside of the bucket and will fold back against the bucket if it hits a post.
The return mechanism is nothing more that a spring. A large nylon washer is placed on the pivot pin between the bucket mount and the arm to allow smooth pivoting motion. The motor sits about 16" from the edge of the bucket.

The motor has a 3/8" shaft drilled for either a cotter pin or split pin. I made an adapter on my mini-lathe to accommodate either a trimmer string configuration or a brush blade. Adapter is held onto the motor shaft with a cotter pin. On the business end I configured a PVC cap drilled to accept either 2 or 3 strands of .105" nylon trimmer string (found at local TSC store) and held to the adapter with a bolt and lock washer arrangement.

The swath is about 14" when used with the .105" nylon trimmer string configuration in either 2 or 3 string strands. I also have some thicker weed stalks that required something more substantial than trimmer string, hence the brush blade. That assembly is also held on to the adapter with a bolt and lock washer. The bolt is safety secured to the adapter with a cotter pin thru the mounting assembly. I didn't want the brush blade to become a Fatal Frisbee while in use.

One additional requirement of mine was to be able to see what I was cutting without having to look backwards constantly. I noticed that with some of the commercially available trimmers, they were all mounted on the 3PT hitch that required eyes on the back of ones head to observe what was being cut or getting a stiff neck in the progress of constantly turning around. Wasn't going to have it. Look forward to see whats being cut.

Total cost was $0 for steel (around the shop stuff), $50 for hydraulic motor from Surplus Center, $110 for the control valve (also from Surplus Center) and about $50 for hydraulic hoses.

On a test run down some fence line, everything went smooth and it cut a nice clean path between fence posts. Then the deluge of rain started here in eastern NC from Tropical Storm Nicole. Since Monday, this week, we've had 20" of the liquid sunshine, and its suppose to stop by noon today, so I guess I won't be doin' too much week wackin' this week....at least not til the pastures dry out.

Enjoyed sharing one of my projects with ya'll, if anyone has any question, just ask. Sorry if the pictures aren't in any kind of order, but you should get the idea.

Tom

Copndoc3 could you add a vail to the motor portion to insure stand-off from fence posts. Your current design allows for the motor to move and then return to it's original position. My experience with trimming under fences is that T-Posts are hard on trimmer line. A vail to insure the trimmer only got within a specified distance from the post would in my opinion insure trimmer line longevity.

 

[dstig1]

I find this very interesting after spending several evenings with my Stihl brushcutter/weed wacker trying to get my 2 ac site back under control. I like the design and concept, but am puzzled about a couple things.

Where are the hydraulics coming from? Rear remotes? I don't have remotes, unfortunately...

The spring release for hitting objects looks to be backwards to me, unless I am looking at it wrong. Assuming that is on the right side of the bucket, it would appear you need to be going in reverse for it to break away when you hit something. I must be missing something. EDIT: I was looking at it odd. The bracket is on the other side of the bucket. Makes sense now.

You got me thinking.... I need to go back and look it over more.

 

[timker]

I think if you install a gauge you will find that your only running 3-500 psi, at the most, my fence line mower will have two hydraulic weed whip motors running in oppisite directions, so the post is cleaned on both front and back as you pass it, Iam using a hydraulic drivin front mount deck,. the spring back motors are mounted in the right front corner of the deck, over laping the deck cutting width I designed this trim mower for my sister who opperates a 65 acre certified organic farm, She pastures sheep NO CHEMICALES are alllowed on certified organic farms, Or, ROUND UP is the best solution, she has nearly 2 miles of electric fence, and weeds are a problem with electric fences, I dont have any pics to share, but will post when I do. Eric

Can you send me pictures of the weed wackier you made

 

[timker]

I think if you install a gauge you will find that your only running 3-500 psi, at the most, my fence line mower will have two hydraulic weed whip motors running in oppisite directions, so the post is cleaned on both front and back as you pass it, Iam using a hydraulic drivin front mount deck,. the spring back motors are mounted in the right front corner of the deck, over laping the deck cutting width I designed this trim mower for my sister who opperates a 65 acre certified organic farm, She pastures sheep NO CHEMICALES are alllowed on certified organic farms, Or, ROUND UP is the best solution, she has nearly 2 miles of electric fence, and weeds are a problem with electric fences, I dont have any pics to share, but will post when I do. Eric

Thomastesluk@gmail.com

 

[timker]

Can you send me pictures of the weed wackier you made

 

[dieselscout80]

Can you send me pictures of the weed wackier you made

Please post them here!!!

 

[Xfaxman]

Can you send me pictures of the weed wackier you made

Old thread, he has not been on since 2016:

 

[timker]

Old thread, he has not been on since 2016:

View attachment 872962

Any progress on the weed wackier