GC2310 steering wheel loose - rubber bushing replacement

[timetobakethedonuts]

I found multiple posts on this site about the issue with degradation of these mounting bushings, due to using the steering wheel as a handle. The shaft develops play. Mine abruptly came loose yesterday after 11 years of service. I saw a few people say that they had removed the steering wheel as part of the repair process - but in looking at mine, it appeared that maybe it could be done without removing the wheel. Remove the debris screens under the wheel to access the two rear bolts, and the engine compartment to access the two front bolts was my plan. I was hoping to ask here if this might work.

While waiting for my account here to be validated, I called my local MF dealer today and spoke with a mechanic. He said that the steering "motor" will drop as the bolts are loosened, and in fact the repair may be done without removing the wheel. I was wondering if the bolts would have room to be pulled upward, but apparently they will remain in about the same place as the "motor" falls. So I came in not having a question but possibly an answer, if others agree with this approach. Now I just need to improve my technique of getting on and off .

 

[DMW]

Tight working space may make it frustrating. Will it be any faster? probably. Easier, maybe not. I tried fitting my hands in, let alone tools, and not much room to work.

You're missing an opportunity to check the wiring. Most of the GC2300/2310 connectors are not lubricated, and starting to corrode. Many instances of the fuel shut off solenoid not working due to corrosion at the fuse box (mine included). Many of the harness connections were assembled dry. Good time to apply some dielectric grease. I plan to remove the battery, remove the side panels, disconnect the wiring to the dash, remove steering wheel, remove instrument panel. It should allow access to easily replace each set of washers for the steering orbital valve one at a time. After that, clean the radiator fins with a hose (haven't done that in 6-8 years). Mice have nested under the battery in the past, and take a look for any chewed wiring.

 

[timetobakethedonuts]

Tight working space may make it frustrating. Will it be any faster? probably. Easier, maybe not. I tried fitting my hands in, let alone tools, and not much room to work.

You're missing an opportunity to check the wiring. Most of the GC2300/2310 connectors are not lubricated, and starting to corrode. Many instances of the fuel shut off solenoid not working due to corrosion at the fuse box (mine included). Many of the harness connections were assembled dry. Good time to apply some dielectric grease. I plan to remove the battery, remove the side panels, disconnect the wiring to the dash, remove steering wheel, remove instrument panel. It should allow access to easily replace each set of washers for the steering orbital valve one at a time. After that, clean the radiator fins with a hose (haven't done that in 6-8 years). Mice have nested under the battery in the past, and take a look for any chewed wiring.

I appreciate all the tips. My tractor has always been stored inside, but there have been times that mice have been in that building. The hood is often open to keep mice from being cozy. I finally replaced the OEM battery with a good old fashioned flooded lead acid. The only failure(s) I have had were the ground strap frame to engine failed early on, and now the bushings. I am asking for trouble saying this! The mechanic told me that the valve will drop as the four bolts are loosened - they do not have to be raised upwards. I am confident I will be able to manipulate the washers into place, but I do see the wisdom in your approach. When my electrical system goes south I will remember your advice. I believe I did the radiator when I replaced the battery. I will check my fuse box also.

 

[LarryS]

Your approach is what I did. The "motor" moves around a bit but isn't hard to get positioned correctly. Those rubber bushings degraded, almost melted turning into gooey messes.

So far no trouble with wiring although I too keep it garaged. I think it's been rained on twice. It's the first model "year" and it's been interesting to see what common failures have not occurred in that first year. Normally you'd expect the opposite. ...

Larry

 

[timetobakethedonuts]

Your approach is what I did. The "motor" moves around a bit but isn't hard to get positioned correctly. Those rubber bushings degraded, almost melted turning into gooey messes.

So far no trouble with wiring although I too keep it garaged. I think it's been rained on twice. It's the first model "year" and it's been interesting to see what common failures have not occurred in that first year. Normally you'd expect the opposite. ...

Larry

I spoke with the owner of the company, who was the salesman when I bought it in 2008. Pretty sure they upgraded the design right after, and I got a "deal" to clear out stock. He told me that the GC series has been very reliable. Could have been blowing smoke, and he didn't speak about specific versions - but I think he is an honest person and he has been at it many years. Coming here was the first I have looked much, and I see some issues others have had. My only problem prior to this was the ground strap engine to frame failed. I have 450 hours on mine. Thank you for your input. These must be really common to fail - they sold the two sets that came in within two days and I have to wait for this week's delivery.

 

[irvingj]

Yes, there have been several others who have had steering mount issues, for the reason you mentioned. I also had to replace my broken ground cable, after 3-1/2 years and around 150 hrs. Seems the 2300-series' cable was too short, but problem was apparently remedied with 2400 and subsequent series. I've had a few other problems, but apparently only happened to me -- broken motor mounts, broken 4WD select fork in transmission; otherwise it's been very dependable. Now have about 850 hrs.

 

[DMW]

Changed out the steering bushings today. Not a lot left of the old ones. Had to scrape off chunks that had glued themselves on. For me, it was definitely easier to do with the steering wheel removed, and instrument panel swung to the side. Tried w/o removing the steering wheel. Fiddled blindly for a 1/2 hour trying to replace a bushing. Opened things up and 20 minutes later all were done. A second set of hands helps to align the pump when bolting it back in. Easier to insert the guide in the lower bushing before placing it in position. The bushing distorts, making it difficult to insert afterwards. Steering wheel removal was simple, remove the bolts on the steering valve, let it drop. I evened the steering wheel nut with the threaded shaft, and struck with a socket & hammer, letting the wheel rest on the panel. The valve gets pushed down, but doesn't fall out of place. Bunch of other maintenance done while everything was opened. Lots of battery corrosion, debris at the base of the rad.

 

[irvingj]

Nice pics. Guess we have chickens, huh?

 

[timetobakethedonuts]

Nice pictures, and yes it looks easier removing the wheel. I completed my own job a few days ago. Your tractor has more debris and exposure than mine, I believe. The heads of my mounting screws for the valve looked shiny, very small amount of corrosion on the washers against the bushings. My battery terminals are like new, battery shelf is clean. I did have debris against the radiator that I removed a few months ago during battery replacement.

I did not have trouble removing the old bushings - the bottom ones almost were in pieces. It is a little tricky knowing the bottom ones are where they belong during install, because the fit is so loose to the bolt. Having a second set of hands would have been nice. The hardest ones to do were the lower two bolts, since the steering wheel had to be pulled up and clockwise, looking from tractor right, while getting the bolts started. The upper two went right in. It really wasn't a bad job - I like mechanical challenges. I do see the wisdom in removing the wheel if things are not as clean in there.

 

[exohomestead]

Changed out the steering bushings today. Not a lot left of the old ones. Had to scrape off chunks that had glued themselves on. ...

DMW, My steering just came loose last week. 2006 model, about 1027 hours. Do you, by chance, know the bushing part numbers?

Looking in my parts manual shows item #4 in the diagram page 212, but they show as two per bolt, one above the mount and one below the mount, 8 total. They're called "Washer, 12x6x06" part 4260080M1, so that doesn't seem right.

Your pics are great - thank you very much. I can see the washers, and the rubber bushings, in your picture, but I don't see any rubber bushings in the parts diagrams.

My repair diary is here Massey Ferguson GC2310 TLB Repair

 

[DMW]

Part number is correct. While you have things exposed, check the key switch for corrosion on the bottom, and clean up the connectors in the fuse box.

 

[ray66v]

There are also metal bushings that go inside the rubber washers.

The new ones were a little shorter than the original ones.

If you get some sheet rubber the right thickness, you can make your own washers for a fraction of the the ridiculous price from MF.

Use a hole saw, to cut them out of the sheet.

And yes, you can replace them without taking the wheel off. It is tricky, but possible.

One helpful hint is to use something sticky to attach the washers, and the bushings to the rubbers. I used a very small piece of butyl tape. Then, you fish the washers into place with anything that gets it done. Once in place, use an awl, or thin metal punch, or rod to align everything with the hole.

 

[slb04786]

I know this is an old post but I figured no sense in starting a new thread. My question is what is the purpose of the rubber bushings and collars? What issues would arise from removing them and bolting the control valve solid? Thoughts?

 

[DMW]

Vibration. There would be no isolation of the steering orbital valve from the tractor frame. Excess vibration has a tendency to loosen fittings/bolts, or crack steel welds. I got the OEM rubber washers for convenience, you can always make up your own.

 

[ray66v]

Vibration. There would be no isolation of the steering orbital valve from the tractor frame. Excess vibration has a tendency to loosen fittings/bolts, or crack steel welds. I got the OEM rubber washers for convenience, you can always make up your own.

Yep, no other reason makes any sense.

Vibration in a steering wheel is, to say the least, not enjoyable.

 

[MattB4]

I know this is an old post but I figured no sense in starting a new thread. My question is what is the purpose of the rubber bushings and collars? What issues would arise from removing them and bolting the control valve solid? Thoughts?

I removed mine after a couple years when the rubber bushings had disintegrated. I fail to see they served any purpose other than to cause play in the steering wheel.

 

[ray66v]

I removed mine after a couple years when the rubber bushings had disintegrated. I fail to see they served any purpose other than to cause play in the steering wheel.

On second thought, there is another reason for the rubber mounts.

If someone grabs and pulls the steering wheel to mount the machine, where would all that stress be applied, if there is no give in the controller mounts?

I don't have the current price. But, I'll take a WAG, that part, (the steering wheel controller), is north of $1k, now.

And, there have been accounts of them leaking from being tugged on, even with the rubber mounts.

 

[MattB4]

It is just a simple hydraulic control unit with hoses. The shock mounts allow more movement from someone grabbing it than simply bolting it solid. I had my tractor for 20 years after I hard mounted it and never experience any trouble from doing so.

 

[Dmacleo]

On second thought, there is another reason for the rubber mounts.

If someone grabs and pulls the steering wheel to mount the machine, where would all that stress be applied, if there is no give in the controller mounts?

I don't have the current price. But, I'll take a WAG, that part, (the steering wheel controller), is north of $1k, now.

And, there have been accounts of them leaking from being tugged on, even with the rubber mounts.

orbital valve for a 2010 GC2400 runs 1400$.

 

[ray66v]

orbital valve for a 2010 GC2400 runs 1400$.
View attachment 876934

Thanks.

"Check availability and delivery information", is manufacturer speak for, the product you need this part for, is more than 10 years out of production. So, since we are no longer "legally obligated" to provide you with parts, we aren't going to stock it, and you are probably sol.

I hope I am wrong. But, I have seen this far too many times, to be optimistic.

It's also possible it's superseded by the later version. They should put that information on there, if it's the case.