Help Me Design/ Build a Shop

[dieselscout80]

I found that having a company install a 30X60 12 ft eave carport style building with 3 10X10 roll up doors and a man door on a concrete slab was the best option for me, I had a concrete contractor install a 4 - 5" thick slab (5" under the planned 2 post lift) for 12k and the building installed (shell with exterior doors) was 20k. down here pole barn with the posts in the ground is a no go for me.

DaBear3428, I'd like to see some more details on your vent fan you installed in your carport style building. Also, how well does it work at cooling your building?

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

I put this one in mine. I did the calculations based on advertised CFM and going off memory it should replace the air in my shop about every 7 min or so. I wouldn't say it cools the shop but it does a good job of pulling the heat out. It seems to feel cooler with the big door closed and windows opened while it's running. Like there is too much open area with the big door also opened. It's also a lot quieter than I expected. You can hear it running but it doesn't effect conversations.

 

[DaBear3428]

DaBear3428, I'd like to see some more details on your vent fan you installed in your carport style building. Also, how well does it work at cooling your building?

Amazon.com

works well but draws in a lot of dust.
i'm building out a conditioned office/machine room 20X30 to keep my mill,lathe and other sensitive equipment from getting dusty and rusty.

 

[DaBear3428]

I put this one in mine. I did the calculations based on advertised CFM and going off memory it should replace the air in my shop about every 7 min or so. I wouldn't say it cools the shop but it does a good job of pulling the heat out. It seems to feel cooler with the big door closed and windows opened while it's running. Like there is too much open area with the big door also opened. It's also a lot quieter than I expected. You can hear it running but it doesn't effect conversations.

View attachment 878409

same one i put in, if i leave the doors open and stand in the door it helps alot but you are right you still have the steel covering the building getting hot and radiating infrared onto you, so i would say it keeps the building from being an oven but in 100deg summer heat in direct sunlight on the building there is only so much a fan is going to do. there is about a 15deg diff in the shop with the fan running but it is still 100deg so. i cannot stay in it without the fan running right now.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

The double bubble insulation I put in my building made a BIG difference in the radiant heat. With a little air flow my building is no hotter inside than outside and being in the shade it feels cooler in the building than outside.

 

[Doorman63]

what is the CFM valve you use for that?

My one shop-30x40 is uninsulated and only has one door and no windows. After noonish it almost too hot in there

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

Mine shows 5088 CFM. You would need to calculate the cubic feet of your shop to be able to get to the minutes for complete change out. But I would say get the biggest one you can afford that will fit in the space. I don't think you can have too much. I wish I had a dozen of them.

 

[Doorman63]

Mine shows 5088 CFM. You would need to calculate the cubic feet of your shop to be able to get to the minutes for complete change out. But I would say get the biggest one you can afford that will fit in the space. I don't think you can have too much. I wish I had a dozen of them.

Thanks for that info.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

The garage and horse stable both have a 3ft x 3ft coupola. I installed this fan in them, 2 speed. 9,600 cfm. They're nice and pull lots of air. I had to bend the coupola louvers up a little because of the cfm but they work great.
I know there are pros and cons to trees but I have healthy large oaks & maples around both and shade really makes it nice.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

Our farrier & his wife were out yesterday and fan running and end doors open a little it was really comfortable. Doors open a little increases air velocity.

 

[CliffordK]

Also some planning depts (and not just in CA) get spooked by a shop that has enough stuff in it for people to live there, i.e. bathroom and shower and kitchen. They think you're trying to build an ADU on the cheap.

I've wondered if I'll encounter some silliness with the building inspectors. I am planning on a large workshop, but haven't gotten too far yet.

One thing I won't compromise on. I want a full bathroom. Toilet, sink, and shower. Probably also closets and a laundry area.

I consider it to be a critical safety issue. I will have access to oil, fuel, dirt, and perhaps other chemicals. And, if some gets in my eyes, or even on the body, then the ability to wash and shower will be critical.

I don't know about a kitchen. I will want a snack area. I will probably plumb/wire the kitchen, but leave it unfinished for any inspections.

 

[civilian]

I didn't put a bath room in my work shop because it would have needed another septic system and the inspections from the health dept. Jon

 

[Doorman63]

Septic for additional building……
We had our new buildings waste plumbed to our existing system. Contractor said no new system no inspection. Approx 160’ of 2” pipe. A tank with grinder pump adjacent to the new building.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

Paint and receps and this side will be done.

 

[civilian]

Looks nice. Jon

 

[ericm979]

I've wondered if I'll encounter some silliness with the building inspectors. I am planning on a large workshop, but haven't gotten too far yet.

I'm going to have a 3200 sq ft shop built on my Oregon property this year. I have the building itself and some of the other subs lined up.

If you're zoned EFU (exclusive farm use, how most Oregon farms are zoned) it should be pretty easy. Per Oregon law you're allowed to have a farm shop where you work on farm equipment and the farmer's personal vehicles. My Oregon county which has a fair amount of ag said no problem sir, that will be $81, would you like to come down and take care of that today? Way different from my California county where a shop permit took four years.

Plumbing and electric need their own permits. Septic too.

One thing I won't compromise on. I want a full bathroom. Toilet, sink, and shower.

That's up to DEQ instead of the county. If you can run the drain into the existing septic then it's probably not a problem. Otherwise you need a standalone septic system ($$$) or a pump and a dual chamber main septic tank ($$).

I consider it to be a critical safety issue. I will have access to oil, fuel, dirt, and perhaps other chemicals. And, if some gets in my eyes, or even on the body, then the ability to wash and shower will be critical.

I don't know about a kitchen. I will want a snack area. I will probably plumb/wire the kitchen, but leave it unfinished for any inspections.

Kitchen, shower etc may be a sticking point. Some Oregon counties are touchy about anything that can be converted on the sly to an ADU.

Our place in Oregon has exactly that kind of ADU. The owners converted the room above the garage to an ADU after inspection. You can tell because of how they ran the wiring and plumbing outside some walls. But it was done long enough ago that its been grandfathered in by the county and it's officially an ADU. I'm told that they're on the lookout for that kind of thing now. This probably varies quite a bit by county.

 

[aircommuter]

While I don’t like California government there are some counties where permits are fairly quick and inexpensive. I got my permit for my shop before the the house so it included the well, septic system, power which is three phase (4 panels in the shop and two meters outside 100’ away), bathroom, 50 kw backup generator with two transfer switches and it’s 7700 square feet. Permit took eight days.

 

[Deanes]

I just completed a 40x50 shop next to a home we gutted and totally remodeled at the same time. Here's what worked for me. I shopped 5 different pole barn builders, (including Menards). The prices for what I wanted came back wildly different, so glad I shopped. I choose the lowest and started looking at references. The one I liked was 125 miles away but had done several in my area, and everyone gave great recommendations. They helped me with options, door and window choices and several suggestions including using some sort of plastic sleeve to bury the posts in my clay soil. They even found room in my limited budget to add a nice-looking cupulo.
I had a local contractor use a medium-sized bulldozer to level and prepare the pad on my hilltop. The materials were delivered and their crew showed up shortly. These guys were great! Wonderful craftsmen. They used a lot of screws but backed up everything with nails. Very accommodating such as moving already installed windows when I realized they didn't suit me. The crew was all Mexican and the leader lived about 2 miles from me and had built barns for over 30 years!
After it was framed, they were glad to start another job and promised to come back when I was ready for siding.
My builder son-in-law and I prepared and formed for concrete, but hired a finisher that could do this size job quickly. Without the siding, the concrete truck had good access to all the building without pumping. I did a 5-inch floor, but no rebar. We used fiber in the concrete instead.
The crew came back and did the siding and roof in one day. Several people encouraged me to add a 12' ceiling at the last minute, and the same crew installed it after I bought the metal.
Before insulating I did all the wiring and the plumbing for 3 hose outlets and a small kitchen. No bath... In our area, a bath triggers all kinds of permits, inspectors and more taxes. We put in 100 amp from the house 200 amp box, about 40' of underground (I will be working alone with no more than 1 machine at a time).
The insulator put spray foam on the walls and bat insulation above the ceiling. The ceiling and insulation were great decisions. I can heat the whole thing with a 50,000 BTU natural gas or propane wall heater. I am surprised that one old 5,000 BTU window AC kept it below 85 during a very hot Kentucky summer.
At a low cost, I included a 12' shed across the back. Lots of added storage for the money, but it was so nice, I am using about 1/3 of it for a patio where we grill and watch the sunset over the farm from our hilltop site.

 

[Gord Baker]

FIRST you will need to get appropriate Permits. Unlikely a Pit will be allowed.
Make windows Narrow and high above Grade to deter Intruders.
Full size door and man doors front and rear. NO windows in Doors. Serious Locks.
Face window side to SE to get natural light.
Install stove after building is built to avoid more interference from 'authorities'.
Consider Full or partial Loft for storage on NW side.
Duplex outlets 2' high every 8 feet. Continuous Flourescent lighting over Bench.
1 weatherproof 30A Duplex 120V outlet outside by each man door, latch side.
Compressed Air Supply outlets full length each side every 10'
Cameras inside and outside.
Perimeter lighting Outside.
When trenching for Power lines consider a 1/2" waterline below Frost line.
Metal Siding over rough cut lumber 1"+ thick.
Depending on locale and situation make top of Slab 8" or more above grade.
Consider Floor Drains/location and slope.
Consider 1 overhead cross beam that will safely hold 2 Tons at Centre for hoist.
Depending on your location and purpose consider a Ceiling with Insulation.
Bench near Main Man door, consider mounting of Vise, Grinder, wash sink, toilet and drains etc. Wood works well and metal can be used.
I saw a bench with a 10" dia hole in the middle, and garbage can underneath. Great thought.
There was a flush cover with finger holes to remove cover.
Good Luck
gb

 

[dieselscout80]

If you are still at the planning stage, it’s worth considering not just the power source but also how the overall design will adapt to future needs. Solar is becoming increasingly common, but the integration often depends on how the shop or barn connects back to the main residence. Running the supply underground, as mentioned, gives you more flexibility later on if you decide to upgrade.

One other point that can make a big difference is early coordination between structural layout and services. For instance, if you intend to add a pit, hoist, or wash bay, ensuring drainage, ventilation, and load-bearing capacity are addressed before pouring the slab will save a lot of expense and disruption further down the line. A well-thought-out plan also prevents wasted space around machinery or equipment access routes.

If you want some inspiration on how to make the best use of layout and design principles in functional buildings, have a look at dRAW Architecture’s website. They showcase projects where careful planning of both aesthetics and practicality has led to spaces that work efficiently and are prepared for future changes.

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