New garage time!
- Thread starter fatjay
- Start date
- Views: 299595
ericm979
Super Member
I think 200a @ 240v of solar is a lot of panels. When I ran PVwatts for a 16kw array it said it will make a max of 45 amps (240v) at full output on June 21. If the 16kw array makes an actual 16kw, that's still only 66a @ 240v.
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
Other side done. Much faster this time. Tweaked the saw so it's making better cuts and quicker.
I ordered a new mask and welding shirt, so I don't have to collect slag with my bare skin.
I ordered a new mask and welding shirt, so I don't have to collect slag with my bare skin.
goeduck
Super Star Member
My wife has a LOT of "precious keepsakes". Most have not moved in 30 years.Never big enough.. I've filled my 36x42 with vehicles and "precious keepsakes"
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
Other side done. I picked up this plank to put between ladders to make it less safe. It's coming slowly because it's a lot of up and down the ladder, every piece is bolted up, measured, marked, and cut by hand, then back up the ladder, and welded in place.
And I built another of these mud kitchens for underprivileged kids that my wife keeps wanting me to build.
And I built another of these mud kitchens for underprivileged kids that my wife keeps wanting me to build.
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
Doing this with one person, in the dark, in the rain, on a ladder is proving to be slightly dangerous.
So I switched gears to work on my battery, bms, and busbar setup.
I have a JK 100a bms, my busbars are 12" copper. I am installing 4 growatt 3k bms and 6 15kwh batteries. I'll drill and tap the bus bars every inch giving me a total of 11 holes.
The BMS has 2 10ga leads for the battery, but I was under the impression I needed 1ga copper for my battery wire. I feel like the 2 10ga is on the small side.
I am currently top balancing my 280ah batteries, I have a feeling it will take a while.
So I switched gears to work on my battery, bms, and busbar setup.
I have a JK 100a bms, my busbars are 12" copper. I am installing 4 growatt 3k bms and 6 15kwh batteries. I'll drill and tap the bus bars every inch giving me a total of 11 holes.
The BMS has 2 10ga leads for the battery, but I was under the impression I needed 1ga copper for my battery wire. I feel like the 2 10ga is on the small side.
I am currently top balancing my 280ah batteries, I have a feeling it will take a while.
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
I like your bracing under the roof!
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
Had to redesign the cross member support. The webbing doesn't work for the side to side cross members. So I needed to add some stubs down then diagnoal supports to support the load. Then a horizontal support to pull it together.
Doing it on paper is easy, but everything is heavy trying to clamp in place so I can tac it in place. I want to pick up some T channel for the diagonal, I don't think the flat stock is strong enough over this distance.
Doing it on paper is easy, but everything is heavy trying to clamp in place so I can tac it in place. I want to pick up some T channel for the diagonal, I don't think the flat stock is strong enough over this distance.
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
Playing with a couple different designs, I think a joist style might work better.
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
Strength is important, but really the strength is already there. I'm just looking to combat sag. Over the span there's about 1cm of drop. Since this will be covered in panels which are rigid, sag may compress them and result in cracks. That's the biggest thing I'm trying to avoid.
In the first design, the outer two triangles will keep it supported mostly, but it can pivot, without the lower horizontal member. The lower horizontal pulls it together.
With truss design trusses sag all the time. They're still strong enough, but I'm looking more for rigidity and resistance to sag. I think the original design is the strongest.
In the first design, the outer two triangles will keep it supported mostly, but it can pivot, without the lower horizontal member. The lower horizontal pulls it together.
With truss design trusses sag all the time. They're still strong enough, but I'm looking more for rigidity and resistance to sag. I think the original design is the strongest.
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
Got a few more pieces up. I ran out of metal, so I need to go to tomorrow to the metal shop.
I got this stupid magnet that says it holds 90lb but barely holds 20.
I got this stupid magnet that says it holds 90lb but barely holds 20.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I'm jealous of your scaffolding. I can't count how many times I've told myself to buy a couple sets, and even gone to the store to look at it, and then decided not to spend the money. One of these days, I really need to spend the money!!!!
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
It saves so much energy compared to a ladder. Also gives me a place to set the welder. I wasn't going to break it out but this ended up being a bigger job than I thought. Every piece needs put in place, clamped, marked, unclamped, cut, welded. It's a lot of up and down, which takes a lot of energy.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I'm dealing with ladders all the time. I have more then I thought possible, but they all get used. It's just a pain moving them around, and not having a decent place to put anything.
Seems like they sell for the same price used as they do brand new!!!
Seems like they sell for the same price used as they do brand new!!!
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
They definitely do. I have a lot of ladders and they all get used, but working for an extended period of time with heavy stuff, it gets old. Fatigue on the feet.
The biggest pain is no where to put the welder, the leads are not that long to have the base on the ground and weld 13' up. I got hte platform hoping it would help, but still not great
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
Finally got the 3rd support structure done. I had to cut the last piece 3 times, wasting a lot of material. The first time I somehow cut it backwards despite holding it up and marking. The second I took my eyes off hte bandsaw for a minute and cut through. 3rd was ok.
Also cut and drilled mounting ears for the panel racking and ground anchors. I'm going with 1/2x8" anchors, 2 per leg. That should hold it down.
Also cut and drilled mounting ears for the panel racking and ground anchors. I'm going with 1/2x8" anchors, 2 per leg. That should hold it down.
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
Picked up some 2-2-2-4 URD wire. Broke out the trencher. Went to disconnect the pool power wire. got my sharp knife out and was cutting the electrical tape pulling towards me and thought, this is dangerous. Then immediately it slipped, knife went into my index finger right at the first digit. It stopped when it hit bone. That bled, a lot. All over my clothes, ground, kitchen, wife. She was not happy.
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
I needed to clean the trench out of all the loose stuff. I tried a 2x4, that didn't work. And a piece of angle iron was heavy. so I made a 3.5" hoe with an 8' handle.
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
Tonight I made ground spikes. I cut the flat stock at 8", then bent it in my home made metal brake. Then wrapped it in electrical tape and cut a spike.
They'll be used to hold the water pipe to the bottom of the trench. I have 4" of sand and my depth is 28", where my frost line is 24". I have 300' of 1/2" ob pex so i'll have some room to screw up.
I'm also going to toss a pair of cat6e in.
They'll be used to hold the water pipe to the bottom of the trench. I have 4" of sand and my depth is 28", where my frost line is 24". I have 300' of 1/2" ob pex so i'll have some room to screw up.
I'm also going to toss a pair of cat6e in.
chim
Elite Member
Sorry to hear about the blood loss. Hope your tetanus is current. Back when I was doing trench work we modified shovels by heating them and bending the sides up to form a scoop.
