Is boiled linseed oil a useful rust preventative for seasonal implements stored outdoors?

[oldtimer 66]

Boiler linseed oil is also used as a wheel and gear mounting compound on locomotives and transit equipment. It was at one time mixed with carbonic white lead for the same purpose. It eventually dries in the wheel and or gear seat. So that a freshly mounted wheel will go on/ press on/ at 140 ton, then 3 years later when you want to remove the wheel it may take 500 ton to remove the wheel. Just some information.

 

[AnotherBueller]

It will definitely be messy, but probably would help with surface protection. I would find another solution. Linseed oil has a habit of never fully solidifying. It’s good for wood because it soaks into the pores, but you’ll cuss it whenever you handle your implements. Why not use tarps until you come up with a better solution? I don’t worry about surface rust for ground engaging implements like plows and blades. After using them, the blade surfaces will be polished again.

RAW linseed oil will not harden, but BOILED linseed oil will. When linseed oil is treated to become Boiled, the oil is 'catalyzed' and that's what causes it to harden is contact with air.

 

[AnotherBueller]

If you mix it with paint thinner it will also go deeper into the wood.

For the first coat. I give it a day to dry and then a second coat of undiluted boiled linseed oil. Then don't touch it for a week or two.

 

[newbury]

<snip>I made the mistake of using soybean bar and chain oil in a electric pole saw that sat for about a year unused. The chain was completely glued to the bar and rigid from the oil drying and sealing everything together. Took over and hour scrubbing in kerosene with steel wool and wire brush to free everything up.

But I bet it didn't rust!

<snip>God gave sheep a much better and longer lasting protective lanolin oil.

And then man made Fluid Film, and more recently Wool Wax!

 

[Flogger]

Mix it 50-50 with paint thinner to make your own much stronger version of "Thompson's Water Seal".

Toss in a couple if capfuls of japan drier and you're all set!

 

[Flogger]

I use a small amount of pure lanolin mixed with a light carrier oil... like Miracle Oil or transmission fluid. Lanolin has been found to be the best overall long-term protector. You can find pure lanolin online easily, then I just warm a little of the carrier oil and melt in some lanolin, then put it in a spray bottle and mix it with a balance of the carrier oil. For a commercial lanolin based protector, Fluid Film works great, but is fairly expensive.
WD-40 works only for a very short term solution, and will definitely not protect anything for very long. God gave sheep a much better and longer lasting protective lanolin oil.

90% alcohol 10% lanolin. Put it in a spray bottle and go to work. Fantastic case sizing lube also.

 

[CalG]

Toss in a couple if capfuls of japan drier and you're all set!

Can I double like this?

I keep a can of Japan Dryer next to the gallon tin of Linseed oil!

jus' say'n

 

[sixdogs]

But I bet it didn't rust!

And then man made Fluid Film, and more recently Wool Wax!

Tell me more about Wool Wax. I've heard it used for coating under cars but thought it was the same as Fluid Film.

 

[newbury]

Think of fluid film as thin wool wax.
If I can do my undercoating on a hot summer day I'll use woolwax, cooler days fluid film.

 

[319Quahog]

I prefer woolwax to FF.

Thicker, lasts longer, still oozes into crevices, etc.

I like how their quart size bottles are right sized for their spray guns. Also like the wands for getting up inside the frame.

I'll use the spray cans of woolwax for the weep holes of my doors.

When you subscribe to emails for woolwax, they'll often send you 10% off codes.

I need to do my truck next month.