New Shop build Plywood wall finishing ideas needed.

[turbo36]

Planning on using sanded 3/4" plywood for the first 8 feet of the interior walls of my new barn build. I am uncertain as to how to finish the walls, I plan on painting them white but not sure whether I should try to caulk the seams and nail holes or just live with them?

 

[HawkinsHollow]

If it was me I would caulk. It would not take too long and would probably give a better finish. When you paint things white cracks always stand out because cracks are black. The caulk would at least bridge that gap and hide the cracks. Still would not be drywall perfect but it is a barn and will look better than 95% of barns out there.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

This is what my plywood walls that I'm working on look like. No caulk. I build 2x4 stud Faux? walls on 24" centers and used 1/2" plywood. Took a ton of paint. Did 2 coats of Kilz and 3 coats of interior semi-gloss paint.

 

[ArlyA]

In a barn or shop? Gee, paint and live with it.

 

[gstrom99]

3/4" plywood? Wow! $! Anyway, I caulked (latex) my OSB before painting. I needed three coats of latex paint to cover the printing on the OSB since it bled through.

 

[ArlyA]

3/4 would be nice to attach things to. Can we ask what you are paying for it there? I worked in a shop for years that had roofing tin walls. Nice for fires but you couldn't attach nothing to it.

 

[scootr]

Prime then caulk the obvious flaws and apply the finished coat. If you have big exposed knots you may want to fill and smooth them with drywall mud. You only build it once but you will look at forever.

 

[turbo36]

3/4 would be nice to attach things to. Can we ask what you are paying for it there? I worked in a shop for years that had roofing tin walls. Nice for fires but you couldn't attach nothing to it.

I bought 53 sheets of 3/4" inch sanded birch plywood for 50 bucks a sheet from a lumber liquidator. They are perfect condition.

 

[rumwrks]

Consider caulking and using intumescent paint (yes it's not cheap, no it's not 100% fireproof, yes it does help).

 

[turbo36]

Consider caulking and using intumescent paint (yes it's not cheap, no it's not 100% fireproof, yes it does help).

“Intumescent” I can’t wait to work that into a conversation. Just when you think you know everything someone more educated than you throws out something for you to look up on Google. Thanks for the info!

 

[etpm]

If you use intumescent paint do the walls swell if you rub up against them? Asking for a friend.
Eric

 

[turbo36]

In a barn or shop? Gee, paint and live with it.

Yah, if I was in da the UP that’s what I would do! However, down here in “Troll Land” , my OCD prevents me from doing the practical thing! Ha ha

 

[rumwrks]

“Intumescent” I can’t wait to work that into a conversation.

There's a few words like that floating around hah.

It is useful to have the actual term of art for searching for the thing though.

You'll also see: "Fire Barrier Paint" and "Fire retardant paint" but they're not exactly the same thing.. (a bit marketing.. but conveys the idea) Difference Between Intumescent Paint and Fire Retardant Paint

 

[rumwrks]

If you use intumescent paint do the walls swell if you rub up against them?

Only if you're hot enough...

 

[oosik]

I was thinking - all that $$$$ spent on a new barn. I would be looking for some type of fire retardant or fire resistant paint.

Yes - I would calk the seams and nail holes. Who knows - keep going and you might end up with a duplex rental unit.

 

[turbo36]

I was thinking - all that $$$$ spent on a new barn. I would be looking for some type of fire retardant or fire resistant paint.

Yes - I would calk the seams and nail holes. Who knows - keep going and you might end up with a duplex rental unit.

Or my “home away from home” when my wife kicks me out of the house!

 

[BackRoad]

That 3/4 inch ply will make some fine walls! Looks like you used rock wool for the insulation?

I had to buy a gallon of the "I" paint to put on a 2' x 6' drop down attic stairway cover in my garage to pass fire code. First time I had ever heard of it.

It was about a year ago and IIRC it was around $125 per gallon from Benji Moore. I wouldn't recommend using it unless you really have to for code.

I only used about a cup of it...

But we got the CO which is all that mattered!

 

[dodge man]

You entertaining royalty? I wouldn’t bother to caulk. Great looking building by the way.

 

[EddieWalker]

I would use screws instead of nails. I personally don't see the need to caulk or hide the screw holes. They don't bother me, and I like to know where the studs are so I can build shelves in the future. I do like white paint on the walls to brighten everything up, but also to contrast what I have on the walls, or shelves.

If I was to caulk, I would use Big Stretch caulking. I've been using it on jobs for clients for awhile now and it's worth the extra money.

If I was to fill the holes from the screws, I would use joint compound. It sticks to everything, and it's super easy to sand smooth.

If you prime with Zinsser 123 before painting, you will use a lot less paint and have a better finish.

I only use two brands of paint. Valspar from Lowes. Duramax is an exterior paint that is really, really good. I use it on interiors all the time if I thing I need a better quality paint the Interior paint. It's also great on bathroom walls where moisture and mold is an issue. The other paints that I buy are from Sherwin Williams. They cost more money, but my clients all feel better when I use it on their homes. Emerald is by far the very best of the best paints out there. Nothing comes close to what it does!!!!

 

[JPRambo]

Plywood and paint