WinterDeere
Super Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2011
- Messages
- 6,235
- Location
- Philadelphia
- Tractor
- John Deere 3033R, 855 MFWD, 757 ZTrak; IH Cub Cadet 123
Yeah, getting the ramps out and putting them away is probably my single most time-consuming step, as well. I try to all of our cars that require ramps at the same time, to save the time of fetching the ramps out and putting them away.My daughters Mazda 3 takes a little longer as I have get the ramps out, place them evenly and straight under the front tires, and then position the car on the ramps. Then undo the access panel underneath to get to the oil plug and oil filter. It takes a good 10 minutes for all oil to drain.
As to time it takes to drain, I start with a warm engine, dipstick or oil filler plug removed to vent air, and then spin that plug off first. By the time I have the oil filter removed, the new one pre-filled with oil and spun back on, usually I'm ready to pug the oil plug back in. Total time might be close to your 10 minutes, probably a bit less, and then you're on the home stretch!
I bought a box of 10 or 20 for our Volve T5, which also spec'd these, so I'd just always have them on hand. But prior to that, I did re-use them on at least two occasions, and it never leaked. Probably not something you can do indefinitely, but in a pinch when you don't have a fresh one on-hand, my experience has been that you can reuse the old one at least once.Then hope I have a new crush washer for the oil drain pan bolt.
Even that's fair, probably more time spent getting out the tools and cleaning up, if you're doing just one car. But that still beats driving to a service station, waiting on them, and driving home! Best case, I suspect that's still more than double your 45 minutes, for most.After installing oil filter and putting in new oil, button everything back, put everything back in its place (tools, ramps) and then pour the old oil into my large oil container. 45 minutes or so.