Tractors and wood! Show your pics

   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,141  
How do you set a stop on the return stroke?

That has been a gating issue on "one man" output with my present splitter.

I put a "stop block" on the splitter rail, but it didn't last long. Hard wood, maybe I need to machine machine up a proper clamping stop,
I don't have a physical stop, when my splitter is retracting, I can let go of the spool handle. As it gets to where I want it to stop, I tap the handle out of auto-return and it stops. It is an extra "reach back", but I have it down to one motion after years of splitting. Maybe all spools are not set up this way? If I let it go, it does a full return and the handle flips out of auto-return, so I would think most spools would be this way?
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,142  
How do you set a stop on the return stroke?

That has been a gating issue on "one man" output with my present splitter.

I put a "stop block" on the splitter rail, but it didn't last long. Hard wood, maybe I need to machine machine up a proper clamping stop,

Most wood splitter cylinders push against the plate or wedge on the forward stroke and have a fairly small pin to drag it backwards. I broke the end off my splitter cylinder with a travel stop and my splitter wasn’t the first one I’ve seen broken this way. I didn’t rig that bolt in the beam either. That was factory installed. This was my solution for the problem that has been working for about 4 years.
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   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,143  
Really liking the 3 point pallet forks. The weight on the back is much more stable driving on uneven terrain. Rated to 2,000 lbs and $200 on Amazon. I think they would be worthless without the hydraulic top link though
 

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   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,144  
What never made sense to me is, someone being afraid to run a 3 point wood splitter or a pto generator because it puts hours on their tractor...

I split a LOT of wood, and I bet I don't put a hundred hours a year on my tractor splitting wood.

Anyone who owns a tractor that they have to worry about, even a couple hundred hours a year running a splitter, must have bought a huge POS for a tractor... lol

SR
I agree.

I would rather have my tractor sitting at 1500 RPMs or so working the log splitter, than having a screamer engine next to me, plus it's just another engine that will sit and eventually get bad gas or trash in the carburetor and need to waste time on it.

Tractor will be quieter, use less fuel and certainly won't care about a couple of hours running the splitter. That's how I ran my splitter for a couple years.

Gas is also more expensive in this neck of the woods. Diesel being at around $6.20/gal versus gas at $7/gal.

Nowadays, having solar panels, I just converted the splitter to a 3 phase 400v electric motor. Super quiet, if I time things right with the sun, pretty much a free operation.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,145  
Took down the last "big" tree for the year yesterday. This little dead 30 foot elm has been dropping limbs and collecting Virginia Creeper for the last several years, so time to go.
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Middle of nowhere, so 2520 just holding my tools in the background...
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South side went south, north side to the north...
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Switched over to pallet forks for the heavy cleanup duty...
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....and into to processing area it goes...
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Back to the carryall for final cleanup....
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And all the larger pieces bucked and split ready to stack in the bunker. Will chip the rest into the pile in the background.
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Hand splitting went pretty well until the lowest part of the trunk which was full of burl, so got some assist from the saw for those pieces.

Only tree cutting left for this year (I hope) will be some small dead stuff scattered around the pasture.

NOTE: The author in NO WAY endorses operating tractors with ROPS in lowered position, especially with a load of Virginia Creeper on the forks.
 
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   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,146  
Another thing you want to do is flip your control arm after a split to stop the cylinder from retracting fully.

How do you set a stop on the return stroke?
When I brought home my father's stand alone splitter he had welded up a piece of iron to rest on the beam in back of the ram, so that it would kick off at about 24". Unfortunately I loaned the splitter out and it didn't come back with that add-on.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,147  
I’ve wondered in the past if my oak wasn’t dry enough. It normally dries at least two years. I burn in a fireplace with doors and an outside air draw. It seems some days the fire just doesn’t burn well. I’m not sure if you get an inversion layer outside and the fire just doesn’t get a good draft or what.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,148  
There are no dumb questions.
You clearly haven’t been reading the flat earth thread.
I put a "stop block" on the splitter rail, but it didn't last long. Hard wood, maybe I need to machine machine up a proper clamping stop,
Another forum I used to read is filled with stories of guys snapping the end off their cylinder rods, just like 4570Man describes. The conclusion among that group was that the only safe way to limit stroke is to place a slug inside the cylinder, behind the piston.

If you go that route, slug should be roughly same diameter as bore to avoid cocking the piston inside the bore, and have grooves sufficient to allow fluid to flow around it from the rear port.

Others have just bought a shorter cylinder, and cut / welded the mount to a shorter location.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,149  
I wonder why the small two way splitters are no longer available. They clearly aren't for everyone but it's ideal for those of us with moderate use and small tractors. I've had this one for almost 15 years with zero maintenance.

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   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,150  
I wonder why the small two way splitters are no longer available. They clearly aren't for everyone but it's ideal for those of us with moderate use and small tractors. I've had this one for almost 15 years with zero maintenance.

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What is the max. length round you can put through it?

I bounce back and forth like a ping pong ball on this issue. As much as I like the idea of a tractor mounted unit, I can't help thinking it would be nice to be able to use it without the tractor if I want. Also, seems it would be easier to sell a stand alone unit when the time comes for the same reason.

By the time I decide, I won't need one anymore....
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,151  
What is the max. length round you can put through it?

I bounce back and forth like a ping pong ball on this issue. As much as I like the idea of a tractor mounted unit, I can't help thinking it would be nice to be able to use it without the tractor if I want. Also, seems it would be easier to sell a stand alone unit when the time comes for the same reason.

By the time I decide, I won't need one anymore....

What is the max. length round you can put through it?

I bounce back and forth like a ping pong ball on this issue. As much as I like the idea of a tractor mounted unit, I can't help thinking it would be nice to be able to use it without the tractor if I want. Also, seems it would be easier to sell a stand alone unit when the time comes for the same reason.

By the time I decide, I won't need one anymore....
19 inches. Again, it wouldn't work for everyone but I have a stove that takes 16 inch wood. Unfortunately I don't know of an available small 3 point splitter now.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,152  
If you go with a PTO pump, definitely get a 2 stage unit.
I've never even seen a 2 stage pump made to fit a tractor PTO. I had no idea they existed. For most applications, a 2 stage pump would not be desirable: Imagine your back working fast until it got under load, and only then slowing down - nudging the swing cylinder into precise position would be tough.

As @CalG noted, you don't really need 2 stages if you buy a large enough pump. There are a number of 16-20 GPM pumps out there.

Most pumps seem to recommend a tank at least as big as the GPM rating. (Though my AmercianCLS log splitter has a 16 GPM pump, and I seriously doubt the tank is 16 gallons. I'll have to measure and calculate one of these days.)
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,153  
I've never even seen a 2 stage pump made to fit a tractor PTO. I had no idea they existed. For most applications, a 2 stage pump would not be desirable: Imagine your back working fast until it got under load, and only then slowing down - nudging the swing cylinder into precise position would be tough.

As @CalG noted, you don't really need 2 stages if you buy a large enough pump. There are a number of 16-20 GPM pumps out there.

Most pumps seem to recommend a tank at least as big as the GPM rating. (Though my AmercianCLS log splitter has a 16 GPM pump, and I seriously doubt the tank is 16 gallons. I'll have to measure and calculate one of these days.)
Here in Portugal, it's very common to use 2 stage PTO pumps on splitters, typically above 20 or 25 Tons.

Essentially it's just a tandem pump mounted to a speed increaser. It's an high displacement gear pump and a small displacement gear pump that connects to a standalone high/low valve. A PTO shaft just connects the tractor to the splitter and it's done.

Some even have 3 pumps, being the third one used for the lift table. And just about 90% of them are foot operated.

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   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,154  
How do you set a stop on the return stroke?

That has been a gating issue on "one man" output with my present splitter.

I put a "stop block" on the splitter rail, but it didn't last long. Hard wood, maybe I need to machine machine up a proper clamping stop,

I put an adjustable return stop on my 22 ton splitter. It has and automatic detent valve that cut out when the ram was full back with a 26" opening for a round. My first attempt to make it stop at 18" was to bolt a plate across the beam for the wedge to hit on the return stroke but the detent release pressure was so high that it tore out the bolt holes on the back of the wedge. At that time I was just learning to weld so I made a project out of making an adjustable stop.


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Still using it to this day. Saves a little time on each split which adds up and frees up both hands to handle the wood during the return stroke.

gg
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,155  
I put an adjustable return stop on my 22 ton splitter. It has and automatic detent valve that cut out when the ram was full back with a 26" opening for a round. My first attempt to make it stop at 18" was to bolt a plate across the beam for the wedge to hit on the return stroke but the detent release pressure was so high that it tore out the bolt holes on the back of the wedge. At that time I was just learning to weld so I made a project out of making an adjustable stop.


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Still using it to this day. Saves a little time on each split which adds up and frees up both hands to handle the wood during the return stroke.

gg
Just an anecdote on "splitter efficiency".

When my youngest son was in high school, he broke his leg playing fall sports. Being in a cast and on crutches he was not as much help as he would normally be working up fuel wood. But boy, could he keep that splitter ram at the ready. No matter what size piece I would pick from the pile of rounds, he was ready!

Great fun!
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,156  
Just an anecdote on "splitter efficiency".

When my youngest son was in high school, he broke his leg playing fall sports. Being in a cast and on crutches he was not as much help as he would normally be working up fuel wood. But boy, could he keep that splitter ram at the ready. No matter what size piece I would pick from the pile of rounds, he was ready!

Great fun!
My wife runs the valve lever when I split wood. Like you say, it can be a fast way of splitting. She also brushes away debris by the time I can get another round up there. After we burn through a tank of fuel, it surly is break time.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,157  
I took in a load of logs to mill for a guy, here's one of them headed for the BSM,

10-19-202402-S.jpg


It made some NICE lumber, until I found this,

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After a little chainsaw work, it was time to change out the band and move on.

SR
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,158  
I took in a load of logs to mill for a guy, here's one of them headed for the BSM,

10-19-202402-S.jpg


It made some NICE lumber, until I found this,

10-18-202401-S.jpg


After a little chainsaw work, it was time to change out the band and move on.

SR
With that grain pattern, and embedded iron, that piece would make a great conversation piece!
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,159  
Spent some quality time with the chipper yesterday cleaning up debris from the recent dead elm tree removal project.
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NOTE: The author in NO WAY endorses operating tractors with ROPS in lowered position, even when you are not actually ON the machine, it is stationary, parking brake set and all attachments are lowered to the ground.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #24,160  
I
I took in a load of logs to mill for a guy, here's one of them headed for the BSM,

10-19-202402-S.jpg


It made some NICE lumber, until I found this,

10-18-202401-S.jpg


After a little chainsaw work, it was time to change out the band and move on.

SR
I've heard of the staining which iron causes but this is the first time I've seen what it looked like.
Too bad that you can't see it until you get the log apart.
 

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