Having trouble installing/removing & adjusting rear blade on 3 pt.

[In.the.Piñons]

That category 2 hitch is designed for light above ground implements to connect to the top hole on the tractor, middle pin for below ground implements and heavy above ground implements, bottom hole for heavy below ground implements.
Matter of fact, my owners manual says to never use the bottom hole position.
Set your position control so the lower arms will stop level with the ground. Don't use draft control or it will try to counteract the blade wheel adjustment when grading for level. (Draft control is for below ground work)

"That category 2 hitch is designed for light above ground implements to connect to the top hole on the tractor, middle pin for below ground implements and heavy above ground implements, bottom hole for heavy below ground implements."

The blade is about 1800+ lbs, so I assume that it's current position in the middle hole is correct (heavy above ground implement)?

"Set your position control so the lower arms will stop level with the ground"

How I do that? My tractor just has a lever to control position with no way to set a stop.

"Don't use draft control or it will try to counteract the blade wheel adjustment when grading for level. (Draft control is for below ground work)"

Do I just set the draft control to it's minimum position to turn it off?

Thanks!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Not that this has anything to do with your current issue, but your float feature slots in the side links should have the pin locked down at the bottom when you are trying to cut grade. You would only use the lower clevis float feature with your blade when doing a final smoothing pass, typically using the back side of the blade.

Good luck with your new blade.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Not that this has anything to do with your current issue, but your float feature slots in the side links should have the pin locked down at the bottom when you are trying to cut grade. You would only use the lower clevis float feature with your blade when doing a final smoothing pass, typically using the back side of the blade.

Good luck with your new blade.

I didn't know that, thanks for pointing it out!

 

[jeff9366]

T-B-N ARCHIVE:

3 holes for top link on tractor end

Hi all, I did a little search but taking the easy way out. On my Kubota I have a grader bar on the 3 point hitch Which of the 3 holes for top link will lift the grader bar off the ground the most? Is there ant downside? I am just dragging the blade and lifting the blade. How will it affect the...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[RayIN]

"That category 2 hitch is designed for light above ground implements to connect to the top hole on the tractor, middle pin for below ground implements and heavy above ground implements, bottom hole for heavy below ground implements."

The blade is about 1800+ lbs, so I assume that it's current position in the middle hole is correct (heavy above ground implement)?

"Set your position control so the lower arms will stop level with the ground"

How I do that? My tractor just has a lever to control position with no way to set a stop.

"Don't use draft control or it will try to counteract the blade wheel adjustment when grading for level. (Draft control is for below ground work)"

Do I just set the draft control to it's minimum position to turn it off?

Thanks!

Draft control should be set to full up, but not in constant pumping position. The position control will then do its job; BUT, I've never seen a modern tractor without an adjustable stop on both position and draft controls.
This link might better explain: 3-Point Hitch - Please explain draft and position control interaction

 

[rScotty]

For starters, I would try using the higher toplink mount on the blade (assuming that's what I'm looking at).
Adjust the toplink so that the blade frame is parallel to the ground in the lowered position. There will be some point in the lifting height where the toplink will loosen up allowing removal or adjustment.

correct.

 

[airbiscuit]

Can you post some pics of the back of the blade? Especially the angle mechanism and how everything attaches to the top beam. I don't understand why the side plates on the beam aren't parallel to the top beam.

 

[bcp]

Often when there are two top link holes on the implement, the bottom one is for a quick hitch hook and the top hole is for a top link.

Because of the hitch geometry, the lower the top link pin is to the lower link pins, the more tendency for the rear of the implement to go down as the implement is lifted.

See dimension "B" for category 2.

Looking at this diagram below, with the top link too low on the implement, you can see how the top link moves rearward as it lifts, causing the rear of the implement to go down as the front raises.

Having the gauge wheel on the rear of your blade makes your system even more sensitive to this problem.

Bruce

 

[bdhsfz6]

I've had similar issues with a few of my implements. My solution was to get a hydraulic top link. It greatly simplifies the effort required to swap attachments.

If you don't have a third set of remotes to control it, you can always add a diverter on one of the others.

 

[jyoutz]

My tractor has two position holes in the lift arms in addition to the top link hole positions. When I bought my rear blade, I had to use the lower position hole on the lift arms and the center hole on the top link to get the lift I desired.