Restarting My '70 Nova Project

[BravoXray]

A painted driveshaft is better than a mattress.View attachment 1510716

WTF happened there?

 

[BravoXray]

Great, nice to hear things are progressing. Are you going to paint the block when it is all back together, or leave it bare ? I always think it definitely looks better, but do you have any concern about it trapping heat ?

No, that's not an issue. Besides, the block would eventually start rusting, and that will lead to other problems.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

WTF happened there?

A woman ran over a mattress, then drove 30 miles like that!
I don't think anyone was on it at the time.
Strange how someone put electrical tape over the mechanics eyes. They all had a different opinion as to how to remove it I'm sure.

 

[BravoXray]

Hopefully I have the new block the first of next week. Been getting parts that I'll need to get it all back together, like a new oil pan because the dipstick is on the right side instead of the left.
I ordered a bunch of parts from Summit Racing yesterday, so I should have most everything I need to get it started back together. It'll still take a couple of days to do a thorough deburing, chasing threaded holes and painting it once it get it back.

 

[BleedingOrange]

Thanks for the update. I was wondering how this project was progressing.

 

[BravoXray]

UPS brought a big box from Summit Racing today, right on schedule. Got it all unpacked and it all looks good.
I checked out the new oil pan, as I had some concern about it being too deep where it sits over the crossmember, but the depth is almost exactly the same. Tomorrow, I'm going either scuff it up or blast the paint off it so I can paint it orange. I thought about getting it powder coated, but they shop said they are 2 to 2 1/2 weeks out on that, so paint it is. I need to check into a small oven to do powder coating of small items.

 

[MossRoad]

UPS brought a big box from Summit Racing today, right on schedule. Got it all unpacked and it all looks good.
I checked out the new oil pan, as I had some concern about it being too deep where it sits over the crossmember, but the depth is almost exactly the same. Tomorrow, I'm going either scuff it up or blast the paint off it so I can paint it orange. I thought about getting it powder coated, but they shop said they are 2 to 2 1/2 weeks out on that, so paint it is. I need to check into a small oven to do powder coating of small items.

View attachment 1678839

I've been contemplating getting a used electric stove for the garage and attempting some powder coating myself. I can use the welder outlet.

 

[BravoXray]

I've been contemplating getting a used electric stove for the garage and attempting some powder coating myself. I can use the welder outlet.

That's what I was thinking about, just have to figure out a place to put it. Too damn much "stuff" in the shop. I could put it on a cart and also use my welder outlet, but still have to have a place to park it.
What I need to do is to get the brakes fixed on my old Yale forklift and get some pallet racking in the back to store things on pallets.

 

[BravoXray]

Decided to paint the oil pan today, started sanding on it to scuff it up for paint, and it seemed pretty thin, so I put in the blast cabinet and took all the paint off.
It's good I decided to blast it, as the paint literally blew off, wasn't bonded to the metal at all.
I gave it a coat of self-etching primer, and then three coats of Chevy orange engine paint. Looks pretty good.
The machine shop tech called about 4:30PM and said the block was ready to pick up, so I'll go in and pick it up on Monday.
So, maybe in a couple of weeks, I'll have it all back together and running again.

 

[BravoXray]

I picked up the block today, brought it back and hung it on the engine stand. Spent about two hours deburring sharp edges, deck water passages, main bearing bores and casting flash. One thing this block does differently than a stock block is to direct all the oil in the lifter valley to drain back over the camshaft, instead of through holes at the front and rear of the valley into the timing cover and over the rear crankshaft counterweight. I also countersunk every bolt hole and any oil passages I could get to. I blew it off with compressed air, but before final assembly I'm going to power wash it or maybe take it back to the shop and have them tank it again, just to be sure it's good and clean.
Then I'll mask off the block and get it painted Chevy orange. I started the fiddly process of gapping the rings, it's a slow process, but has to be done right or it can cause problems later. After that's done, I need to assemble the crank and piston/rod assemblies without rings, to check rod clearance in the block, bottoms of the cylinder bores and oil pan due to the 4 inch stroker crankshaft. I think, can't find it in the specs, that the block is clearanced for a 4 inch stroke, but I'll make sure.

 

[Alan46]

You’re the man!

 

[BravoXray]

I got all the rings gapped this afternoon, and once I got started, it went pretty quickly. The cheapo ring filer I bought from Summit Racing works pretty well, just hold the ring in place and turn the crank. According to the directions with the ring package, the top ring gets a 0.018" gap (4.155" bore X 0.0045) and the 2nd ring gets 0.020" (4.155" bore X 0.0050), I though that was strange that since it's the top ring that runs hottest gets less gap than the 2nd ring, but that's what the instructions say, so that's what I did.
Then it was on to clearancing the block for the rods. I had thought the block would accommodate a 4" stroke, but upon investigation, it is only good for a 3.75" stroke without modifications.
I installed the old main bearings in the block rather than use the new ones, and dropped the crank in. I set the bearing caps in place and when I tried to seat them in the block, They wouldn't seat without binding the crank. Hmmmmm? Since the caps didn't have arrows on them pointing to the front of the block, I installed the caps with the stamped numbers readable from the front. Wrong! Turned them around and they seated in place like they should, and the crank spun freely. That just seems nonintuitive and bassackwards to me.
I installed the #8 rod/piston assembly with more old bearings and located where I had to start relieving the block. I got out the old Black and Decker air die grinder and put in a carbide burr and got started. I started with #8, as I knew it would need some work, and got started. I probably had to take out 3/16" at the bottom of the cylinder bore and about the same at the pan rails . The carbide burr does a really good job on the cast iron, so it doesn't take too long. I got #7 done also, so only six more to go. I was surprised at all the cast iron grindings on the floor under the block when I got done, going to be a lot more.

 

[the old grind]

When we're retired and have the time & patience we can do great things. But like with toy or model trains, building workshops, or clearing land for better use it's always about the journey.

btw, I keep driving by a first gen Chevy II 4-door with rough paint and possible neglect. It's not quite what we know and love as more recent Novas but IMO the spirit is there, and more interesting if it has the 4-cyl engine. The early Corvair down the road also beckons me to approach the owner.

(don't expect much )

 

[BravoXray]

Well, I spent about 4 hours carefully grinding on my new block to get the rods to clear the pan rail. The carbide burr I had worked really well, was easy to remove material where I wanted and left a fairly smooth surface. When I was done, I swept up the material on the floor amd it wold probably filled a one cup measure, and that didn't include what was stuck on my clothes. The air die grinder throws the filings everywhere, but it works great.
After that was done and all the rods and bolt had at least 1/16" of clearance, the next job was to clean up the rods, pistons, crank and block. I thoroughly washed the rods, pistons and main bearing caps in the parts washer (and yes, it has a really good filter on it) and blew them dry with compressed air. Did the same with the crank, making sure to blow out all the oil passages a couple of times, wiped it dry with clean shop towels and covered it up on the bench with the other parts.
There is no way to get the block in the parts washer, so I dug out a compressed air siphon sprayer and used a better part of a gallon washing it down and then blowing it off and blowing out all the oil passages and bolt holes. I finished it off with a couple of cans of brake cleaner that left it squeaky clean and dry.
Next came the job of masking it off so I could paint it. That took a couple of hours because of all the irregular surfaces, but I got it all done in time to give it a coat of self etching primer before I had to leave to pick up a friend for dinner. I only had about a third of a can of Chevy orange paint, so on the way home I stopped at O'Reilly's and picked up another can. Stopped at the shop and gave it a couple of good coats, so it'll good and dry to work in tomorrow.
One thing I forgot to check when I had some of the rods in the block was to see if they clear the new oil pan. The old pan was made to clear stroker cranks, the new one doesn't look like it is made with as much clearance at the pan rails, so I don't thinkit;s going to work. But, I'll check it, and if it doesn't, I'll either have to modify the old one to accept the dipstick on the right side, or get one that will clear the rods. That would suck, because all the ones I saw when looking on Summit were $200-$300. I'll just have to see and decide what to do.
Oh yeah, and even if the new pan will work, I'll have to get a new oil pump and pickup because the old one is 8.5" deep and the new one is only 7.5" deep, and I can't just change the pickup because it's welded to the pump cover.

Nothing is simple.

 

[dodge man]

Is yours a stroker? Im just wondering why the block needed that much relief but maybe that’s normal.

 

[BravoXray]

Is yours a stroker? Im just wondering why the block needed that much relief but maybe that’s normal.

Yes, it's a 4" stroker rotating assembly I got from Eagle. 4.155" bore and 4" stroke give me 434 cubes. From what little I drove it so far, it is a real torque monster with that long stroke.
Interestingly, the stock 400 block required less grinding to get clearance than the new Dart block did. Apparently it is beefed up in the lower pan rail area, and it does weigh about 20 pounds more than a stock block.

 

[Alan46]

Yes, it's a 4" stroker rotating assembly I got from Eagle. 4.155" bore and 4" stroke give me 434 cubes. From what little I drove it so far, it is a real torque monster with that long stroke.
Interestingly, the stock 400 block required less grinding to get clearance than the new Dart block did. Apparently it is beefed up in the lower pan rail area, and it does weigh about 20 pounds more than a stock block.

I had a Dart block based on the Ford 351 Windsor, if I remember correctly 4”x4” = 427 about 650hp, those strokers like you say are torque monsters, and make power at only 6500rpm (mine) best et 10.08 @ 132, mustang with me in it 3,150 lbs!

 

[BravoXray]

That's a good looking FAST Mustang you had there.
FYI, a 4" X 4" V8 is a 402 cu.in.
You have to go to 4.125" bore to get 427 cubes.
My 434 is just a 0.030" over 427.

Pulled all the paper off the block today, it looks pretty good, really orange.
Spent about an hour chasing out all the threaded holes in the block, and there are a lot of them. Blew them all out with the air nozzle, the head bolt holes on the Dart block are blind instead of open into the water jacket like the stock block.
Unpacked the new main bearings and made a small modification to the rear main shells to get more oil the the thrust surfaces, a mod I've seen a few SBC builders recommend. Installed the rear seal half in the block and the rest of the upper bearing shells. Got the crank, wiped and blew it off, lubed the bearings and journals and dropped it in place. Installed the lower shells in the caps, lubed them and dropped them into place. Seated them in the block, installed the cap bolts, snugged them up, forced the crank forward and aft to set the rear cap and thrust bearing properly. Dial indicator show .005" end play, which is in spec. Torqued the 7/16" main bolts to 65 ft.lbs. and the splayed 3/8" bolts to 35 ft.lbs., as per the block specs. The crank even spins nice and freely, which is good!
Not sure I'll have time to work in it tomorrow, going to visit some friends from out of town and need to get the BX out and mulch up all the leaves that have fallen. Most of the trees are pretty bare, except for the oaks, they always hang on to their leaves all winter.

 

[BleedingOrange]

Looking great ! Coming along nicely.

 

[dodge man]

Don’t forget to double check everything. Treat it like a pilots check list. I did engine work on a 70 Challenger, I double checked everything twice except adding coolant and water to the radiator. I caught it in time but just barely.