How big of a slab could I do by myself?

[scootr]

12x17 I would quarter it.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

12x17 I would quarter it.

I assume you mean four 6x8.5, but part of me thinks that it would be easier to do long narrow strips, 3x17. Screeding is much easier with a narrow strip.

Question two: should I do cold joints, tie them with rebar, have expansion joints?

 

[scootr]

I assume you mean four 6x8.5, but part of me thinks that it would be easier to do long narrow strips, 3x17. Screeding is much easier with a narrow strip.

Question two: should I do cold joints, tie them with rebar, have expansion joints?

Cold joints, no expansion. Definitely use reinforcement in the form of rear or wire. Make sure you finish the joint edge nice. When you go to pour up against it lay down a sheet of 10mm plastic so you pour over the plastic and it covers yesterdays pour to keep things nice. Then just cut the plastic off when you are done.

 

[paulsharvey]

So the slab is 12x17, the door is in the 12' end. So would you recommend three pours of 4x17 or three pours of 12x 5'+?

If it doesn't matter, it seems to me the 4x17 would be easier, I can roll the mixer between them the whole way. Do the two sides and let them harden and then roll the mixer in on one of the sides to do the middle. It also would mean I never have to drive over the joints.

Hmm, I think I would avoid having 3 joints in the doorway, so I guess given the choice, I would go 12x5, 12x7, 12x5. Knowing the middle section will be the easiest, because you are working off two fixed points, and working the middle. I just think it would look like a turd if you have 3 narrow pours, and the exposed joints all at the 12 ft door.

I would say for a redimix truck, a single guy can pour and finish about 5-6 CY. It's real work, and he better have good weather, and be prepared. Anything over 6, you really need a 2nd guy. 2 guys can readily do 20 per day, but depending in the pour, their work ethic, ease of work, and finish, 30 cy isn't out of question. Then everything over 20 yards, you figure add another guy.

Pallet and Mix, 1 guy can do 1 CY per day, either in a wheel barrow or with one of those small 2 bag mixers; probably upto 2.5 CY with a dedicated, real concrete mixer, or a "mudmixer". In both cases, your going to Know you worked that evening, and the next day, and so on...

How thick do you want to go? 4", 5", 6"? I know the "smart" folks claim WWF doesn't do anything but prevent curing cracks, but if you go 4", I'd throw some wire in it. If your doing 5"/6", I might skip it.

I Would put all your plastic down for the 12x17 pour, your side forms, and bulk head forms. Where you will get real debate, is do you want an expansion joint material Or dowel and tie all 3 slabs together. Sidewalks you dont dowel, and you specifically have cuts and expansion to keep them separate, but structural additions, you typically have a method, such as dowels, keyway, ect to tie the additional slab to the old slab.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Thanks. A thickness of 4" is 2.5 CY, 5" is 3.1, 6" is 3.8. I think I'd rather use rebar than mix and pour another 1.3 CY.

A 12x7 section 4" thick is 1.04 CY, so almost exactly a yard, a good day's work.

My local rental house wants $50/day for a small mixer and $115/day for the big (9 cu ft) one. Since I'd have to rent for three days it seems worth buying a small mixer from Home Depot, Harbor Freight or Amazon.

The Quikcrete Concrete Calculator says 152 60lb bags for 2.5 CY.

 

[Runner]

I assume you mean four 6x8.5, but part of me thinks that it would be easier to do long narrow strips, 3x17. Screeding is much easier with a narrow strip.

Question two: should I do cold joints, tie them with rebar, have expansion joints?

I would do 3, 5+ x 12. I did cold joints (construction joints) tied with rebar (not expansion joints). Has held up beautifully.

 

[paulsharvey]

Thanks. A thickness of 4" is 2.5 CY, 5" is 3.1, 6" is 3.8. I think I'd rather use rebar than mix and pour another 1.3 CY.

A 12x7 section 4" thick is 1.04 CY, so almost exactly a yard, a good day's work.

My local rental house wants $50/day for a small mixer and $115/day for the big (9 cu ft) one. Since I'd have to rent for three days it seems worth buying a small mixer from Home Depot, Harbor Freight or Amazon.

The Quikcrete Concrete Calculator says 152 60lb bags for 2.5 CY.

Home Depot does a discount on single full pallets, but Lowes, last I bought, you had to buy 2 full pallets to get the bulk discount. Never asked about delivery fees, but with a Moffet/Piggy Back forklift, they can deliver the pallets to right where you need.

 

[paulsharvey]

I would do 3, 5+ x 12. I did cold joints (construction joints) tied with rebar (not expansion joints). Has held up beautifully.
View attachment 1906273

Mine, I did wire continues through the whole floor, and only used a edger at the edges, so the WWF held the separate slabs together. Your bulk head form, you can rip down a 2x4, and only have it say, 2.5" "tall" and run the wire free through it to the next section. If appearances matter, you can always use a polybutylene caulk on the joint later, after maybe 28 days.

What are your walls? If block, I would out expansion against them. If post and beam, I would put expansion around the posts.

 

[ning]

If you are under 40, a BFI under 20%, a strong back and a healthy set of lungs, you stand a good chance of success doing by your self. ​

The higher the numbers, the more help and work time you need.

ok I'll bite
what's BFI?

 

[jyoutz]

About a decade ago I needed concrete for an area that would be hard to get a full size truck mixer into. I found a a place that rented “you tow it” concrete. Basically a trailer mounted mixer that held 2 cubic yards of concrete. They load the dry mix and you add the water at home and turn on the mixer. Those units can be truck towed and get into as tight a spot as you can back it into. Break up your slab into 2 yard sections.

But, also in most places there are small concrete contractors who will do small jobs. Maybe search a bit more.