Ford eco boost

[deserteagle71]

I own a 2022 f150 xlt 2.7 liter eco boost 4wd 10 speed automatic.
It was the local Ford dealer demo unit, I bought it with 3,500 miles on it. Has 15,000 miles now.
After The first year the windshield started leaking but they fixed it free of any charges.
It’s also had a few recalls without any charges.
The mpg usually indicates over 22 mpg and i have been pretty impressed with that.
It has plenty of power for my use and the cruise control works great.
I didn’t care for the tires it came with but so far they have been working great, if I ever put manage to put on enough miles to require new tires I will most likely buy some more aggressive snow-off road tires.

Just be aware that the OEM tires are generally chosen because they give good fuel mileage. As soon as you put more aggressive tires on it, your fuel mileage will drop. My F150 spends most of its life on rocky dirt roads. Those OEM tires don't last at all on those roads so I went with Load Range E LT type tires. I keep a spreadsheet that calculates exact fuel mileage for the truck; putting on those LT-E tires dropped my fuel mileage 1 - 2 mpg.

 

[grsthegreat]

Did you adjust the onboard computer for the larger tires?

 

[deserteagle71]

Did you adjust the onboard computer for the larger tires?

Tires were not larger. P265/70R17 OEM, LT265/70R17E is what I replaced OEM with. Stand them up side by side and they are the same height. That was thousands of miles ago and the speedometer/odometer appear to be right on.

 

[deezler]

I get 21 out of my '97 7.3 turbo diesel average and my diesel will be running fine when yours is at the scrapper.

Ok Ok ok. Don't turn this into a d!ck swinging truck competition thread, haha.

True, a '97 7.3 will last forever. But thats about the only good thing I can say about it.

 

[deezler]

Ive never heard the term "flood start". What is it?

Ive never heard the term "flood start". What is it?

Think someone already replied to you but just for further info: You hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank the engine, it wont start until you lift the gas pedal. Its meant to build fuel pressure after you do any fuel-system maintenance, all Fords and Mazdas can do this.

Not sure how much it truly helps, but if you have aftermarket gauges, you can see oil pressure build before firing. The theory is that you'll have oil pressure in the cam phasers before they are tasked with controlling cam timing, saving some harsh wear they can otherwise experience.

Also, everyone with a ford ecoboost !! : disable your start/stop. It is NOT worth the 0.2 mpg benefit.

 

[grsthegreat]

Deleting the start/stop was the first thing i did. What a stupid thing.

 

[YLee Kioti]

Once owner of a now traded 2001 F250 7.3l power stroke (170k over 13 years).
Some things I've learned along the way.
1- NEVER follow OEM oil change schedules. Why? they will get you out of warranty window but then you're on your own, right?
Turbos by nature will coke up lube channel in the circuit. Have witnessed many 6.0l and 6.4l owners at work come in hot from a 20-70 mile daily commute and shut them right down. All turbos need at least 30 seconds to spool down and oil temps equalize a few degrees. (I do the same on the Kioti)
The only lubrication left for the turbine wheel is the residue in the turbo chamber and then heat soaks and eventually cokes up reducing volume. Change oil often, 3k to 4k, owner must determine each case. Allow turbine wheel to spool down.
2- Many have had great success of using a oil catch can to capture blow-by of the engine. This reduces oil contaminants.
3- Oil pump upgrades- This is done by some due to low pressure during periods of long idle times. Again this is a YMMV thingy.
4- Recommend binge watching this channel as he only works on Fords and has years of experience on Eco-Boost and the famous 5.4l Triton engine issues.
5- Spark plugs- Change at 90k-100k or at least remove to inspect them. Experience on 2014 4rnr with 98k. Plugs looked great as new almost. I replced them, because I had already bought them from dealer and had no experience on how they would look. The Car Care Nut recommends removal for inspection at this point to prevent galling and seizing of plugs. We all know what this leads up too. This is applicable to all engines. His only expertise are Toyota vehicles but his 20+ years of expertise apply across the bard on many other brands as well.

Summary, ALL OEMs have their issues. The list is inclusive of all. Even the mighty Toyota brand has nearly cratered its once 'reliability' brand this year. With that in mind as a balanced view hope this helps you out and many more out here.

FordTechMakuloco

This is your source for anything Ford related we show you how to repair your Ford vehicle yourself! Come along as we show you repairs, upgrades, modifications, maintenance, news and best practices to help you fix it right the first time!

www.youtube.com

 

[5030]

Once owner of a now traded 2001 F250 7.3l power stroke (170k over 13 years).
Some things I've learned along the way.
1- NEVER follow OEM oil change schedules. Why? they will get you out of warranty window but then you're on your own, right?
Turbos by nature will coke up lube channel in the circuit. Have witnessed many 6.0l and 6.4l owners at work come in hot from a 20-70 mile daily commute and shut them right down. All turbos need at least 30 seconds to spool down and oil temps equalize a few degrees. (I do the same on the Kioti)
The only lubrication left for the turbine wheel is the residue in the turbo chamber and then heat soaks and eventually cokes up reducing volume. Change oil often, 3k to 4k, owner must determine each case. Allow turbine wheel to spool down.
2- Many have had great success of using a oil catch can to capture blow-by of the engine. This reduces oil contaminants.
3- Oil pump upgrades- This is done by some due to low pressure during periods of long idle times. Again this is a YMMV thingy.
4- Recommend binge watching this channel as he only works on Fords and has years of experience on Eco-Boost and the famous 5.4l Triton engine issues.
5- Spark plugs- Change at 90k-100k or at least remove to inspect them. Experience on 2014 4rnr with 98k. Plugs looked great as new almost. I replced them, because I had already bought them from dealer and had no experience on how they would look. The Car Care Nut recommends removal for inspection at this point to prevent galling and seizing of plugs. We all know what this leads up too. This is applicable to all engines. His only expertise are Toyota vehicles but his 20+ years of expertise apply across the bard on many other brands as well.

Summary, ALL OEMs have their issues. The list is inclusive of all. Even the mighty Toyota brand has nearly cratered its once 'reliability' brand this year. With that in mind as a balanced view hope this helps you out and many more out here.

FordTechMakuloco

This is your source for anything Ford related we show you how to repair your Ford vehicle yourself! Come along as we show you repairs, upgrades, modifications, maintenance, news and best practices to help you fix it right the first time!

www.youtube.com

My 'source' of anything Ford related in my brother-in-law. He's a design engineer at Fords and started out at Fords SVO Dearborn test facility where my 97 7.3 was highly modified after I purchased it at no charge to me.

He told me to steer clear of the 10 speed slush box until Fords worked the 'bugs' out of it, not that I'd have one anyway because a new buggy for me is a non starter.

Fords has pulled some 'shots' in the past as well. Like the problematic twin clutch tranny in the now discontinued Ford Focus that always exhibits clutch chatter and why I have a Focus RS Turbo with a single plate dry clutch 6 speed close ratio box. A rocket ship that insures as a 'station wagon' in insurance company's eyes. 320 ponies in a shoe box.

 

[YLee Kioti]

Deleting the start/stop was the first thing i did. What a stupid thing.

yes, and here's a good summary as to why, for those not aware.

 

[patriot1776]

I have a 2011 F150 CC 4WD with the 3.5 ecoboost. I just turned 265k on it, and it has zero issues. Besides oil changes, brakes and tires the only "big" thing I've done to it over the years is to replace the exhaust manifold gasket on the driver's side when it had around 200k on it. That gasket was leaking when under load. While I had the Turbo on that side off, I went ahead and replaced it, but there was nothing wrong with it. It was just labor intensive to remove that turbo, so while it was off, it got replaced. I still have the old one. It has the max trailer package on it which includes different gearing, trailer brake, tow mirrors, a different hitch than other F150's, another oil cooler, trailer sway control trans temp gauge and a cpl other things. I pull our 10,000lb camper several times every summer. I wouldn't hesitate to go cross country in my truck tomorrow. I've always done all of the maintenance and work to it myself. I've worked as a mechanic for over 20 years.

 

[Williy]

Back in the late 60's a guy I went to high school purchased a 1968 plymouth and all he did was piss and moan about its a piece of junk he was a ford man and pumped the hell outa the gas pedal and flooded it every time. I told him just push the pedal to the floor one time take foot off pedal turn key to start but he insisted to pump the gas pedal his wife had no trouble when I told her how to start it

Our 2003 Dodge diesel if I drive 55 mph I
can get between 25 & 30 mpg but driving
80 only get 18 or 19 depending on the wind

willy

 

[ericm979]

Once owner of a now traded 2001 F250 7.3l power stroke (170k over 13 years).
Some things I've learned along the way.
1- NEVER follow OEM oil change schedules. Why? they will get you out of warranty window but then you're on your own, right?

The owners manual has two oil change schedules: the regular one that everyone including the dealer follows, and the severe duty one. But when you read the fine print, severe duty sounds like most people's regular driving. Towing, yea not everyone does that, but stop and go traffic is pretty common. It's unusual for people to actually meet the regular schedule requirements.

Turbos by nature will coke up lube channel in the circuit. Have witnessed many 6.0l and 6.4l owners at work come in hot from a 20-70 mile daily commute and shut them right down. All turbos need at least 30 seconds to spool down and oil temps equalize a few degrees. (I do the same on the Kioti)
The only lubrication left for the turbine wheel is the residue in the turbo chamber and then heat soaks and eventually cokes up reducing volume. Change oil often, 3k to 4k, owner must determine each case. Allow turbine wheel to spool down.

A lot of modern turbo vehicles have water cooled turbos and coolant afterrun pumps. Turbo tractors might not have either of those.

2- Many have had great success of using a oil catch can to capture blow-by of the engine. This reduces oil contaminants.

At least in turbo cars some OEs have figured out how to make decent oil separators. The aftermarket will still sell you a catch can though.

5- Spark plugs- Change at 90k-100k or at least remove to inspect them.

Gas turbo cars can be hard on plugs. I replace them more often than that.

OTOH, with a gas turbo engine you can get a tune that will get you significantly more power for not much money. A lot of them are EPA and CARB approved even. My previous turbo car went 140k miles before I sold it, most of that with a tune and some bolt on parts.

 

[mulitweed]

I'd sorta expect any modem vehicle, regardless of quality, to have no real issues while under 100k miles.

And quality ones to go to 200k quite easily. I always intend to drive a car to 200k. Not impressed with "no issues" while under 100k honestly. That should be the bare minimum for the price tag

 

[mulitweed]

Back in the late 60's a guy I went to high school purchased a 1968 plymouth and all he did was piss and moan about its a piece of junk he was a ford man and pumped the hell outa the gas pedal and flooded it every time. I told him just push the pedal to the floor one time take foot off pedal turn key to start but he insisted to pump the gas pedal his wife had no trouble when I told her how to start ity of them

Our 2003 Dodge diesel if I drive 55 mph I
can get between 25 & 30 mpg but driving
80 only get 18 or 19 depending on the wind

willy

ive owned 3 chevy impalas , changed oil , a few bulbs , brakes no other problems with an

 

[5030]

When I was much younger I had a Ford Pinto that was trouble free as well.

 

[mjonesnh]

Recommend binge watching this channel as he only works on Fords and has years of experience on Eco-Boost and the famous 5.4l Triton engine issues.

Currently have the 5.4 Triton in a 2002 F150, 135K mileage. Plastic intake cracked at water inlet at 92 k. New plugs installed then. Replaced all coils at 115 k. No other parts or problems except normal maint. items. Has been a very reliable vehicle, not sure what issues is referenced. Know about spitting out spark plugs but has never happened on this one.

 

[mjonesnh]

Like the problematic twin clutch tranny in the now discontinued Ford Focus that always exhibits clutch chatter and why I have a Focus RS Turbo with a single plate dry clutch 6 speed close ratio box.

Had a 2012 Focus, dual clutch replaced 3 times in 39K. Last time traded to new Escape. What a POS. Those Focus RS Turbo are unbelievable, Drove one of my friends for 20 miles or so. Amazing what that Focus was capable of!!

 

[MGP4506]

I haven't come across any OEM tires on any make or model of new pickup (other than something like TrailBoss that comes on 3PMS Duratracs) that has a tire suitable for snow.

The Chevy's that replaced the Fords with had decent tires.

 

[RaydaKub]

I bought my first turbo diesel 24 years ago. Having pulled loads with big block V8s for years, it was a revelation to drive a truck with an engine that didn't have to run at 3000+ rpm when going up a steep hill or pulling 20,000 lbs. This little 3.5 Ecoboost is tuned to pull the same way. Lots of torque down low, below 2000 rpm. Transmission doesn't need to shift down when pulling a steep hill. As you say, it pulls like a diesel! One big difference though. Hook my turbodiesel to a heavy trailer and the fuel mileage will drop maybe 4 mpg. Hook my F150 Ecoboost to a trailer and the fuel mileage (21 mpg not towing) drops in half.

OK, general question, even though I'm quoting deserteagle71:
If this 3.5 Ecoboost can pull like a diesel, then why are they building 7.3 Godzilla engines? This is 446 cubic inch of pushrod tech. The hp numbers are almost the same, but torque actually favors the 3.5.
3.5
Horsepower: 400 horsepower at 6,000 rpm
Torque: 500 pound-feet at 3,100 rpm

7.3
Horsepower: 430 Horsepower @ 5,500 rpm
Torque: 475 lb.-ft @ 4,000 rpm (<2023) 485 lb.-ft (2023+)

I've never driven anything with the 3.5, but have a 2022 7.3. Why not make the 3.5 available in the SuperDuty? The mileage would be better (at least in theory). I wonder what the torque is down around 1000-1200 rpm, like when you first take off with a load.

 

[YLee Kioti]

The 3.5l eco-boost is good for the F150 and that's about its limit.
Numbers alone do not decide application.
My 6.2l F250 pulls 11.2k to 11.7k or so during shredding season. I have to set cruise control to 60 mph cause it'll hit 80 in no time.
Yet, when getting settled in to unload in a unimproved pasture, the low rpm grunt of the 6.2l makes this an easy peasy task.
The 3.5l would not last in those conditions, nor pulling a 14k cattle trailer out here.
Lots of turbo load on those cute little pistons and con-rods, yeah don't think the Ford engineers designed them with low speed high torque demand on long stretches of highway in a super duty either.

Now on the other hand I've learned from a fella on a truck channel that Chevy's new 1500 has added a 2.7l turbo that is built ground up on a diesel platform, made to be solid performer.
Yet Chevy still uses a 6.6l gas and a 6.6l diesel, for the 2500.
This may still not be enough to answer your question, but it was the best I had! heh...have a good weekend y'all...