I am not overly mechanically inclined, this isn't looking good to me. Attached is each front wheel looking up. As others have mentioned a cover is supposed to be there. Shocked to see NO COVER!! Both leaked within a couple of days. One whould have thought after seeing what I am seeing, where in hell did the covers go? They are no where to be found and they leaked while setting with no movement. By the center on each side, looks pretty recent for covers to be gone. I wiped the area but still looks recent to me. Is the fluid that leaked on the ground because of the seals further up this shaft leaked? Is fluid supposed to be here at all times? The saying "Miller time" is it now dealer time? Thank you, each and every one of you for helping me with this.
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rmonio
Platinum Member
This would be nice to have.
I just had my front seals and bearings replaced on my 2000 4600 unit. The dealer said that he was surprised I hadn’t had it addressed sooner due to age, wear, and # of hours. And mine wasn’t a slow issue either…. One day it was boom and I had leaks on both ends by the wheels and also coming from the seal on the MFWD connection. The dealer also said that this wasn’t surprising.
As for the vented fill cap, I asked the dealer about it. He said that he had heard of some people changing out their fill caps for vented ones - but he hadn’t seen them.
I have 2500 hours on my 4320, never had a problem until recently. like you, why would we adress it? Have to address it now though. This is a NON educcated guess on the cost. It must be a grand per side? I recently checked on a loader greasable pin, that was $91.00. That is just stupid price in my opinion. They probably are all the same I suppose.
Thank you for your valuable information!
Thank you for your valuable information!
rmonio
Platinum Member
I have about 2800 on my 4600. The cost to take apart the axle unit, replace seals and bearings, etc., was about $1400 at the dealer. My daughter’s boyfriend (a implement dealer mechanic) took the axle unit off and delivered it to the dealer for the service.
I know it would have been more expensive if I had to pay the dealer to do what he did in diagnosing the problems and then taking it apart and reassembling it - so I feel pretty lucky about that.
I always felt that the way we checked the fluid level, etc., on the front MFWD was bizarre. When I asked the Dealer service manager (now retired) about it many years ago, he indicated that it wasn’t the best mechanism for checking. He basically said that when the front end seals go, you’ll know it and that it is something you just need to deal with. JD’s shop time isn’t cheap - but my daughter’s boyfriend made the right call and said that it was best if JD dealt with it.
oldtimer 66
Platinum Member
Attached is some info from the operating manual about the oil and oil changes. I just clocked 2800 hrs. on my 4320 and I am glad I saw this post. I haven't had any problems but I am over due for and oil change on the front axle. Last one was at 2101 hrs. Thanks logcabin. I have the oil I just need to change it. I think super55 diagnosed the problem correctly, moisture laden frozen oil. I don't think the breather has any effect on this type of failure.
rmonio
Platinum Member
I changed my oil as well when prescribed by the manual. But in my case it didn’t help. I hope things work our for you!
Here is the lastest at this point. A young friend of mine lives in Vermont, I now live in Pittsburg NH. He was near a JD dealership yesterday. He showed the pictures I posted to the service manager there. After viewing he had a tech come and look. The feeling at this point is, if I replace the cap on each side, fill the axel with fluid all should be good to go. He purchased the two caps, $15.00 EACH and put them in the snail mail. The tech said, take some gasket maker, red or black and put a squeeze on the inner side outter edge of the cap and tap them in place, The tech suggested taking a large socket that fits as close to the outter edge as possible so when you tap on the socket the pressure to set the cap is on the outter edge, as opposed to tapping anywhere else to avoid disrupting the shape of the cap itself. As Super55 said it is a friction fit cap. I doubt I will get to do this until my return from Montana. We are leaving Friday for the long drive to Montana to see our daughter. To everyone that posted such valuable information, I sincerely THANK YOU! To oldtimer 66, you are very welcome. I will upate as soon as possibe on how it works out. Be safe everyone!
My mind is workng overtime here. Being the seals on both sides are leaking, if they were not leaking there would not be any fluid from the cap (if they were in place) looking upward. That void is say 2"wide and an inch or so up. I am having some trouble by the dealer saying by putting in the new caps, everything is good to go. A good seal supposedly prevents fluid getting to the cap? If by putting in the new caps, with the seals leaking that is allowing fluid to fill the void to the cap. So, You wouldn't know if the seal or seals were leaking if this cap was completely sealing off the bottom. If the seals were not leaking then no fluid can make it's way to the cap, therefore no fluid in the void. It comes down to, Is fluid supposed to be in the void setting on the cap cover?? I am going to call this dealer tomorrow to get a clarification on where the fluid is supposed to be. As much as I want to spend as little as possible, I don't want to put a bandaid on it either. Sorry to be a pain in the butt!
rmonio, thank you for wishing us a nice trip to see my best friend (daughter) For everyone with kids, or parents too, cherish every second of every day with them. I know way to many that sometimes say, " I wish I had..." You just never know. Life is so precious and so very short!
