F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information

[r8f1k]

Main shaft is 8 belts total to create one band.

 

[r8f1k]

Previous belts

 

[r8f1k]

New bearing with a taller zerk fitting. The old one was very tricky to get to.

 

[r8f1k]

Relay box mounted and working. I need to finish putting in the suppressor diodes on the solenoids to help reduce voltage spikes and stray voltage. Diodes and a snubber will make the relay and solenoid life increase quite a bit.

 

[Jstpssng]

By the time that you are done, this puppy's going to be just the way it was when it came off the factory floor!!!

 

[r8f1k]

Right now, I’m at $664 all in. The biggest expense has been the tires at $75, the 8 solenoids at $140, the $210 for new belts and the $66 for the bearings. Not terrible. I’ve spent more on fertilizer…….

 

[Seven Gables]

Looking good, you certainly don’t have too much into it, long as you can make the time to work on it.
That’s the most elaborate belt and pulley system I’ve ever seen on a air blast sprayer. What’s the size ratio of the two pulleys driving the fan shaft? Looks like around 4/1? Is your orchard fairly flat with no steep hills to pull?
One reason it has more belts is it uses belts and pulleys to up the fan speed as opposed to the more common gearbox.

 

[airbiscuit]

What did this thing cost new?

 

[r8f1k]

Looking good, you certainly don’t have too much into it, long as you can make the time to work on it.
That’s the most elaborate belt and pulley system I’ve ever seen on a air blast sprayer. What’s the size ratio of the two pulleys driving the fan shaft? Looks like around 4/1? Is your orchard fairly flat with no steep hills to pull?
One reason it has more belts is it uses belts and pulleys to up the fan speed as opposed to the more common gearbox.

My place is pretty flat. Maybe 2-3% grade tops. I’m betting the ratio is right around 4:1. There are a lot of belts, but they all do only one thing. The large banded belt, only drives the fan. The two individual belts really close to the tank, drive the agitator. The two individual belts that are in front of the large drive belt, they are the only ones that drive another jack shaft to drive the agitator. I assume that is done to slow it down a fair amount. The double belted belt all the way to the front, drives the pump. I feel that the bearings and the belts being a little tighter are going to take a little more umph to spin things until it gets broken in a little more.

One question: My gut feeling is that the pump crankcase oil was probably SAE 30 oil. The oil is still clean, but I want to get the old out and new in. Any thoughts on a good modern oil to put in?

 

[r8f1k]

Update: New control panel is halfway done. Selector switches for the different patterns and left or right sides. LEDs will light up based on the solenoids being used at the time. I left room for a pressure gauge if I find one.