Got my sawmill up and running!!! TIME TO MILL!!!

[plowhog]

Here is the document I referred to earlier. Quite in depth about air drying wood. Methods and techniques way beyond a small hobby operation but I do like to understand the concepts even if I don't have what is needed to always follow them.

I also forgot to mention, in addition to constructing FLAT pallets, I'm planing all of the stickers to exactly 3/4 inch.

Maybe overkill, but in the past I had some weird deformation of boards so I want to eliminate every possible variable.

 

[ponytug]

@plowhog I think that the sticker wood type should be the same to minimize staining, and I certainly believe in having the stickers on each layer be the same thickness. I think the cross wood type sounds like an old wives tale to me. If you have beetles, or fungus, a 3/4" sticker isn't going to slow them down.

I think that the USDA air drying lumber is a great document. I highly recommend it. I would point out that it doesn't suggest top weights, just rain covers and flues, and IIRC, the only sticker recommendation that is made is to use heartwood. They do suggest a durable wood to reuse the stickers, not something that I have seen any folks do.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Someday I hope to be just like you, maybe a little less surly!

Fortunately, when I got started, I had a guy like me, criticize my work and I listened to him to shorten my learning curve. Now, this many years later, I'm sure glad that I did.

You could learn from that too.

SR

 

[plowhog]

I had a guy like me, criticize my work and I listened to him to shorten my learning curve.

I wish I had that. In about 6 years of hobby milling I've made probably every possible mistake and likely invented some new ones.

I cannot describe how disheartening it is to cut beautiful but extremely heavy slabs, wait years for them to dry, experience severe cracking and bugs, then get out the chain saw and turn them into firewood. I'm doing that now with about a dozen slabs.

And, making lumber by doing live sawn through the pith, and having it all crumble later when drying.

I milled some Black Oak in the last few days. I milled it wisely, protected with Anchorseal, stacked and stickered it wisely, and put a ton of weight on top. What I should have done all along.

Keep the suggestions coming!!

 

[plowhog]

btw I recently added this DRO to my hobby mill. Now have 2 days of experience using it. I am making more precise cuts (thickness) than ever before.

Whether due to parallax error or whatever, I never like the Woodland Mills magnetic gauge.

This isn't perfect, but it has greatly improved the cut tolerance and is easy to use. I paid about $100 for it. Took maybe 2 hours to install, pretty simple.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

In Northern CA I've been battling bugs in the wood.

Dang, Sorry to hear that! I am in SE TN so I am sure we have our share of bugs too. I have only been milling a couple months so haven't had to battle that yet. But I have thought about getting a sprayer of the borax stuff and spray everything down. All the stuff I am putting in the kiln is going immediately in my house so I want any potential bugs dead and it has to be dried quick, I am on a deadline. I hope it comes out well. I am 100% going to make a solar kiln before the summer. I think a solar kiln will do well in the summer heat.

I was told wood boring beetles are either the "soft wood" or "hard wood" type. So he uses softwood pallets for hardwood stacking, and the reverse. It would contain the beetles to one pallet only.

Using the same stickers makes sense. I didn't realize that after kiln drying you have to wait a while for the stickers to regain some moisture.

That is some good advice!

Fortunately, when I got started, I had a guy like me, criticize my work and I listened to him to shorten my learning curve. Now, this many years later, I'm sure glad that I did.

You could learn from that too.

SR

Yessir @Sawyer Rob we should never stop learning!! I know your heart is in the right place. My apologize

 

[plowhog]

In case you need even more material about drying lumber, here is yet another publication.

Regarding weight on the stack, Page 33 says:

"The common loading level is in excess of 150 lb/ft2"

There is no way I can reasonably do that, or even close. So I do what I can.

 

[plowhog]

All the stuff I am putting in the kiln is going immediately in my house so I want any potential bugs dead and it has to be dried quick, I am on a deadline. I hope it comes out well. I am 100% going to make a solar kiln before the summer. I think a solar kiln will do well in the summer heat.

I have done some research on this. Many people feel the Virginia Tech design is the best for a solar kiln. Also, its pretty universally accepted that a solar kiln can dry wood, but not sterilize it. Due to temperatures.

Apparently you need to heat the stack (including the center boards) to something like 133F and hold it there for an hour to kill any larvae.

Just a suggestion, since you said you are in a hurry for drying. I'd look up the "maximum moisture removal rate" for the species you wish to dry. Then make sure you don't exceed that. If you exceed that, it WILL introduce wood defects.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

I have done some research on this. Many people feel the Virginia Tech design is the best for a solar kiln. Also, its pretty universally accepted that a solar kiln can dry wood, but not sterilize it. Due to temperatures.
Yes, planning on making a virginia tech style kiln.
Apparently you need to heat the stack (including the center boards) to something like 133F and hold it there for an hour to kill any larvae.
I was thinking supplemental heat from stand alone solar heat collectors could get a summertime kiln above 133 deg easily. Going to give it a try anyway. If I can't make it happen I will build a sterilization box in my garage.
Just a suggestion, since you said you are in a hurry for drying. I'd look up the "maximum moisture removal rate" for the species you wish to dry. Then make sure you don't exceed that. If you exceed that, it WILL introduce wood defects. Got it!!

 

[ponytug]

In case you need even more material about drying lumber, here is yet another publication.

Regarding weight on the stack, Page 33 says:

"The common loading level is in excess of 150 lb/ft2"

There is no way I can reasonably do that, or even close. So I do what I can.

I would make the observation that the loading advice doesn't seem to be followed by any sawmill that I have ever visited, nor have I seen them restacking the lumber to move the top to the bottom. Plus, the 150lb/sqft recommendation is a) from research, and b) for blackgum 4x4s. Personally, I think OSHA and the insurance company would have a thing or two to say about concrete slabs 12" thick on top of wood stacks, without significant tie down restraints. Those restraints are going to be costly in many ways. (Capital, space, human hazards...)

If you want loading, you could do it with straps (as they mention) and load spreaders, but unless what you are drying is particularly prone to warping, I am not sure that it would be worth it. Personally, I tend to be more concerned about checking and splitting. I do stringer and strap lumber after delivery here for a year or so if I don't get to it right away. That also gives it a chance to come to equilibrium with the climate here, and stabilize. "Kiln dry" in my neck of the woods is not anywhere close to stable lumber. I have had to use multiple #14-5" lag screw anchors on about 20% of my painted 2x6-12' fence boards that slowly warped after installation. Poor milling? Poor drying? I don't know.

All the best,

Peter

 

[plowhog]

If you could look at the ends of the 2x6x12's that warped I'd bet you would find a similar pattern to them. Maybe plain sawed near or through the pith, or something like that.

I wonder if the 150lb/ft is at the bottom of the pile, with the lumber stack and weight above?

Saw an interesting Youtube video about getting good 2x4's from Home Depot. Buy 2x10 or 2x12, then rip them down to 2x4's. And throw away the center board where the pith is.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

If you could look at the ends of the 2x6x12's that warped I'd bet you would find a similar pattern to them. Maybe plain sawed near or through the pith, or something like that.

I wonder if the 150lb/ft is at the bottom of the pile, with the lumber stack and weight above?

Saw an interesting Youtube video about getting good 2x4's from Home Depot. Buy 2x10 or 2x12, then rip them down to 2x4's. And throw away the center board where the pith is.

I made asimilar mistake with the first ash log I milled up. Numerous boards had a noticable crown right off the mill. I am not expecting much out of those. Hopefully there will be some useful wood out of those. If not I have an idea for an accent wall where I can utilize them.

 

[civilian]

HH, do you have a jointer and a plane to finish the slabs to size? Jon

 

[Jstpssng]

HH, do you have a jointer and a plane to finish the slabs to size? Jon

This is why we really, REALLY need a dedicated sawmill and processing section.

 

[ponytug]

If you could look at the ends of the 2x6x12's that warped I'd bet you would find a similar pattern to them. Maybe plain sawed near or through the pith, or something like that.

I wonder if the 150lb/ft is at the bottom of the pile, with the lumber stack and weight above?

Saw an interesting Youtube video about getting good 2x4's from Home Depot. Buy 2x10 or 2x12, then rip them down to 2x4's. And throw away the center board where the pith is.

They were box store, bought in bulk, and yes, a bunch of questionable milling choices were made. I was spoiled by the quality of wood before I moved to California, or at least this part of California, so it didn't occur to me as a possible issue. Live and learn as they say.

I now buy all my lumber for large projects from a local mill directly. They are about the only reasonable local choice for UC4B or better lumber.

All the best,

Peter

 

[plowhog]

I made asimilar mistake with the first ash log I milled up. Numerous boards had a noticable crown right off the mill. I am not expecting much out of those. Hopefully there will be some useful wood out of those. If not I have an idea for an accent wall where I can utilize them.

I'm fairly new at this, but if you see certain movement while cutting, such as when the blade finishes the cut and exits the cant, it indicates tension in the log. Sometimes you can turn the cant to minimize problems. You need to figure out what the tension is doing and cut in a way to minimize drying defects.

I milled some oak boards a few days ago. At the end of the first cut, the end of the board I just cut lifted up about 1/4" above the cant.

 

[civilian]

I remember somewhere I heard if the tree is curved or twisted on the stump, it will be that way after cutting the logs. Possibly even after jointing and planing to final size. I have some that I book matched resaw, and they difinitely bowed end to end. Before resaw, nice looking straight piece. Resaw, bowed. Bummer. Jon

 

[Rustyiron]

Congratulations HH! You'll soon never look at a tree the same way.
My first project;

My generator building.
And my 2nd project;

My sawmill building!
Enjoy your mill!

 

[HawkinsHollow]

Congratulations HH! You'll soon never look at a tree the same way.
My first project;
View attachment 2693274
My generator building.
And my 2nd project;
View attachment 2693275
View attachment 2693276
My sawmill building!
Enjoy your mill!

Those are some good looking buildings! What kind of wood is the second picture? Pine? LOVE the look of those doors!

 

[Rustyiron]

Hemlock, kindly like the Tulip Poplar of the mid Atlantic rein.