Trailer Tires

[WM75Guy]

I just get my trailer tires at Discount Tire. They have a couple of brands that are specifically for trailers.

Same here. I just bought 4 Hartland G-rated tires for my dump trailer. They are exclusive to Discount Tire. Will see how they perform.

 

[NUTTERDW]

Hello to all,

Need two P215/75R15 trailer tires. Any specific brand or ones to stay away from? Is there an online outfit you can recommend? Never bought tires online, so I was wondering if that route is even good due to no seeing before they arrive?

This is for my farm 18Ft trailer [4 total tires, no brakes] that 99% of the time never leaves the ranch. Used mainly for hauling things around the farm.

Thank you very much,
tom

I have bought Carlise tires on line a couple of times for my fifth wheel camper. I always go with the ten ply tires, even though my camper came with 6 ply. Ive never Had one to blow out but I have had the tread come of more than one. That is over 35000 miles of travel. My truck register how much I pull a trailer. I do try to put new ones on ever 3 to 4 years and use my old ones on my farm wagons.

 

[RobertEH]

I am somewhat OCD on the trailer tire pressure. Part of my procedure prior to towing is to check and adjust pressure as needed - as well as check the lug nuts.

The spare was a Load rated D (8 ply I think?), and the mains were load rated E (10 ply?). 65 PSI on the spare and 80 on the mains.

I bought the trailer used from the original owner, and from the tire situation, I deduce that the original tires were the D rated tires, and that he upgraded the tires to Load Rating E at some point.

Based on this, I cannot see how they were under or over inflated - unless I got a puncture while driving that went un-notices and they ran under inflated for a time as a result. The sidewall split from top to bottom as you can see in the photo, so at some point there was a catastrophic event!

I find that most failed trailer tires are on campers. I think this is do to a few reasons.
Near max capacity both directions.
They tend to sit alot.
The owner thinks they are still new because they hardly moved the camper and put new tires on it 6yrs ago.

At one point I looked at nearly every camper that was $10k or less in my county. All the tires where good until I got there and showed the owner all the dry rot. A few I wouldnt even risk moving out of the town they where in.

Weights on the trailer are
Gross: 9,900
Dry: 6,700
I am probably sitting around 8,000 - 8500 loaded. So heavy but not over the top. Tongue weight is around 800 pounds

So I think I fit into your three bullets quite well.
-near max capacity at all times
-only used 3ish times per year
-Ignorant owner (Me) not realizing that tires over 5 years old are suspect regardless of visual appearance. However in my defense, the year prior I had it in to a tire shop for suspension work and the dealership noted on the form that the tires were "excellent".

 

[3Ts]

As for tires delaminating: I have an RV and replaced all the tires on it with new (and current date codes). That's 4 tires on the ground and one spare on a rack at the back of the trailer. A few short trips over a few months and went to move the trailer and noticed that the spare tire which had never been removed from the spare tire mount had delaminated!

I use the highest load rated tire I can get and I use a speed rated tire as well on all my trailers, but they spend more time on the road than on the ranch.

I use Goodyear Endurance, never had a tire problem since I switched to them. They're a little more expensive, but I really do not enjoy changing a tire at the side of a freeway.

 

[mserafin14571]

I have used tire rack with good results. Go with a heavy load rating on trailer tires.

Did get a good deal at Mavis / NTB on tires for my 40 ft gooseneck. It took 8. Changing the size a little from what was on it saved a bunch of money. Same rating, less than an inch diameter difference, same manufacturer, but about 15% less.

 

[chim]

We had over 20 trailers where I worked. They were rated in the 3,000# to 7,000# range. We had terrible luck with Carlisle tires. The garages were always informed that any replacement tires could not be Carlisle.

 

[Hay Dude]

Have had real good luck with Double Coin tires.

 

[RayIN]

I suspect it was because of the tire being about 10 years old, not so much from overloading/underinflation.

Besides, trailer tires are just like normal vehicle tires in that they should be inflated according to the load. There's no way I'll run my trailer tires at 110 psi for no reason - not even the air suspension can fully compensate for that.

Thankfully I don't have any Carlisle tires or I'd be replacing over 60 tires every three years.

Keep in mind load/inflation tables reflect the minimum air pressure for the corresponding load. That means the tires are operating at 100% capacity.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Keep in mind load/inflation tables reflect the minimum air pressure for the corresponding load. That means the tires are operating at 100% capacity.

Well, in reality it means that the tires are at the correct pressure for the load.

And they're not operating at 100%. Unless you mean 100% efficiency, longevity, handling, etc. Otherwise whatever the max inflation as stated on the tire is would be the answer to all tire issues.

 

[RayIN]

Well, in reality it means that the tires are at the correct pressure for the load.

And they're not operating at 100%. Unless you mean 100% efficiency, longevity, handling, etc. Otherwise whatever the max inflation as stated on the tire is would be the answer to all tire issues.

Not correct. For accurate information go to RV Tire Safety
The owner/author of that website is Roger Marble, a retired tire design engineer and expert tire forensics investigator.

Even these load/inflation charts state that is the minimum air pressure to safely support the corresponding load.