New farm... Finding livestock water lines across 126ac?

[Too many Kubotas]

I'm not good at using dowsing rods, but thankfully I don't have to be.

The affordable Pipe Finder detects just about everything (which is good and bad), including empty PVC pipe.

 

[grsthegreat]

I have a locater that can find electrical pipes, or any pipe i can force a fish tape into. But it wont work on an active community water system.

 

[grsthegreat]

I'm not good at using dowsing rods, but thankfully I don't have to be.

The affordable Pipe Finder detects just about everything (which is good and bad), including empty PVC pipe.

What is this portable pipefinder your talking anout?

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Checked Amazon, found the Magnetomatic Pipe Locator.

It's more expensive than the Pipe Finder I have, but seems to be very similar. Basically a telescopic antenna on a very low friction handle.

 

[grsthegreat]

Thanks, that looks similar to the dousing rods i made from copper wire.

 

[paulsharvey]

All this talk of dowsing and witching; we have several fixed features; a meter box; and 5 waterers, each that we know (or we think we know) are part of one system. So, we have 6 known points. We can witch if we want, but that doesn't change the fact, we have to spot dig the line. It's not that bad to dig around the line at one waterer, see the direction it's heading, go down 50 ft, and dig a slit trench to confirm, and go down another 50 feet. If we do a 5 ft wide slit trench, perpendicular to the running line, vs a 10 ft slit trench, cause we have a better idea with the witchy sticks, great. We still need to get a shovel out, and start digging.

Once we have a layout, you can find valves, and start turning them on, 1 at a time, and decide if repairs are needed/worth it; and then more shovel time.

It would be nice if there was a less manual way, but there really isn't. Just start at one, and get after it.

 

[LouNY]

All this talk of dowsing and witching; we have several fixed features; a meter box; and 5 waterers, each that we know (or we think we know) are part of one system. So, we have 6 known points. We can witch if we want, but that doesn't change the fact, we have to spot dig the line. It's not that bad to dig around the line at one waterer, see the direction it's heading, go down 50 ft, and dig a slit trench to confirm, and go down another 50 feet. If we do a 5 ft wide slit trench, perpendicular to the running line, vs a 10 ft slit trench, cause we have a better idea with the witchy sticks, great. We still need to get a shovel out, and start digging.

Once we have a layout, you can find valves, and start turning them on, 1 at a time, and decide if repairs are needed/worth it; and then more shovel time.

It would be nice if there was a less manual way, but there really isn't. Just start at one, and get after it.

In many area with rocks and frost to worry about that would be a lot of digging.

 

[paulsharvey]

In many area with rocks and frost to worry about that would be a lot of digging.

Based on his stated location, 24-27" frost line max. Now, rocky conditions do make it somewhat worse, but I would assume the original installer didn't backfill with rocks? If the soil is rocky in most of the area, it might be pretty easy to spot the trench line as you come across it.

 

[LouNY]

Based on his stated location, 24-27" frost line max. Now, rocky conditions do make it somewhat worse, but I would assume the original installer didn't backfill with rocks? If the soil is rocky in most of the area, it might be pretty easy to spot the trench line as you come across it.

Around here it seems the generally accepted way is to keep the big rocks out the first foot of backfill after that just shove in what you dug out.

 

[Jstpssng]

Around here it seems the generally accepted way is to keep the big rocks out the first foot of backfill after that just shove in what you dug out.

I think you will find the same thing here.
I do take the time to pick them out, because I'll be the one digging up anything I bury.