Hardie Board Siding?

[not2old]

Computers drive me crazy. My last post was supposed to show as a reply to Eddies comment. I have no idea what I did wrong.

 

[ultrarunner]

I’ve had a few glitches lately where entire posts vanished and TBN is asking me to log in and when I do TBN says so am already logged in…?

Appreciate the replies… if I just improve the “L” portion of the house siding where the worst of the problem is I will be happy.

There is a Home Depot and Lowe’s in Carson City and Meeks Building Supply in Tahoe… so different when Tahoe was isolated when the home was built 60+ years ago.

Meeks set me up when I did the roof with contractor pricing when I said I was going to self haul material from home…

Maybe the same deal can be made for siding?

 

[newbury]

I've used Hardie board panels and they have stood up very well to Virginia weather with 1 coat of latex pain for about 25 years.
I just use a mask when cutting panels with circular saw.
I just attached 15lb roofing felt to the studs then screwed hardie panels to the studs. No plywood base. This is a 10x15 shed.
/edit then painted it

 

[scott_vt]

Good Afternoon Ultrarunner,
I did the front side of my barn 3 years ago and went right over the T111. Like Eddie stated it is brittle but my walls are pretty flat. I did not use a vapor barrier, but as far as I can see it’s not an issue. Barn walls are 6” with insulation
Hope this helps !
I plan on doing the house and the rest of the barn when I eventually have time !

 

[Racer4]

I did a large house with both hardiboard lap siding and the 4x10 panels. All were pre-painted, which I think is the better way to go. The surface needs to be flat. Regular building wrap is ok to use for the lap siding, but for the sheets, self draining building wrap must be used. And that is expensive stuff.

I installed it with a siding nailer. The nails are skinnier than roofing nails, and they don’t damage the siding as much. I used strips of aluminum behind any butt joints. Cut edges need to be painted before installation, and hardi has a kit with applicator that makes it quick and easy. I used 5/4” pvc trim for all trim. It’s much easier to use and nail than the hardi trim. I used the hardi trim boards only for the board and batten sections over the 4x10 panels My trim nailer did not like driving nails through the batten strips.

I used the leftover material I had to do one wall of this cabin:

Unfortunately, I don’t have any pics of the house we did.

Well I found the house pics on my old android phone , but can’t share them with my new I phone.

 

[paulsharvey]

Just my opinion; so take that as you want...

Tyvek house rap over the existing; vertical 1x4 "nailers" every 16" on the studs; then hardi plank and trim; nailing (or screwing), only at the nailer. I would use an aggressive, 2.5" ring shank nail for my nailer board, (2x4 might be better), so we are sure we have are nailer into the studs. My worry is nailing hardi directly to the existing siding; we want our hardi tied back to the structure, not the veneer.

The other route; blast the siding and a Good epoxy paint System on the existing siding. Not some home depot primer and exterior paint; i do mean a proper epoxy paint system. This isn't 1970 anymore; and the world of coatings have come a long way. With that; the epoxy paints aren't cheap, and they have a specific methodology for applying that Does need to be followed. Some dont play well with others; some require a specific surface prep; ect

Edit: My worry with even the nailer method; I worry you will get a Wave kinda effect between nailers; and if we are going to do 2x4 nailers, and 1.5" foam or dense glass; we might as go down to studs and build back....

 

[LouNY]

^^^ That was asbestos and no more dangerous than hardy BUT back then they cut them with a guillotine type shear. Saw cutting requires the same precautions for inhalation.
LP "Smart Side" blows away Hardie's so called fibre "cement" siding.
The big players have moved to LP Smartside from hardy and their big book of excuses as far as them covering anything in their warranty.

Interesting take on Smartside comparing to Hardie.
I had several hundred square feet of Hardie Lap siding put up last year including all the 1x4 door and window trim, 1x6 Fasia and the soffit which involved cutting the panels to to a 20 inch width.
I had looked at the Smartside and decided I didn't want chip board with a thin coating. The Hardie was much more money and likely time as every cut was primed and painted.
Sure as heck to care of the damned carpenter bees.

 

[ponytug]

Thank You… location Tahoe.

Well, check it with your zip code, but at a guess HZ 5.

Hardie™ Zone System | James Hardie

Hardie® siding products are Engineered for Climate®. Enter your zip code to find more information on your Hardie™ Zone.

www.jameshardie.com

Installation guide for HZ5;

https://downloads.ctfassets.net/dzi2asncd44t/1QlIBbVJYK7IskazmHqxmH/1fb870c50bdc8f5640bca662c6d672c2/Best-Practice-Guide-HZ5-US-English.pdf

General guidelines (including the above, and its HZ10 equivalent)

Installation Guidance | James Hardie

Access installation guidance and resources from James Hardie for a successful siding installation.

www.jameshardie.com

And yes, always use a fiber cement blade, or a diamond concrete blade, and take adequate precautions for the dust (silicosis).

All the best,

Peter

P.S. as it is Tahoe, I would not use wood, OSB, or vinyl, or vinyl trim due to fire risk.

 

[ultrarunner]

I’m hoping I can use the guillotine for my cuts…

If it works it should help a lot.

2019 pulled a permit to remove a number of trees… was not sure how it would go but inspector came out and suggested adding one more… I had missed the defect but he saw it right away.

My timber from residential lot went to a mill… the tree guy said very marketable and he could justify the crane so it all worked out…

 

[4570Man]

I have one of these that works great for cutting hardie siding. I don’t like hardi siding though. I’d much rather use some of the higher end vinyl/fiberglass products.