Kubota F3080

[dougcat]

Stopped to fuel up, went to restart, lights and gauges were on with key, turn the key to start lights went out, no start. Turn the key to acc position no light but fuel pump runs. Checked, no bad fuses, no loose connections or broken wires, key switch tests good, jump starter turns over but doesn't run.

I did find a relay which also test good (36530-55630 RELAY) beginning to believe its the K3611-55223 CONTROLLER. I'm going to move inside and test the controller any one have one just quit working? Any other thoughts to check? Thanks

 

[LouNY]

Usually an indication of a poor connection or battery.

 

[5030]

Usually an indication of a poor connection or battery.

100% correct. Try starting with the battery and the connections. People trnd to neglect the starting battery and the battery connections as well as the chassis ground which all have to be clean and bright. As a rule, I replace my starting batteries every 4 years no matter what and I check the electrolyte level in them almost daily and even the supposed sealed ones. I pry off the covers and check the levels as every flooded cell battery will gas off, no matter if it's a sealed one or an AGM or not. I suspect it's your starting battery and corroded high resistance connections.

 

[Hay Dude]

Stopped to fuel up, went to restart, lights and gauges were on with key, turn the key to start lights went out, no start. Turn the key to acc position no light but fuel pump runs. Checked, no bad fuses, no loose connections or broken wires, key switch tests good, jump starter turns over but doesn't run.

I did find a relay which also test good (36530-55630 RELAY) beginning to believe its the K3611-55223 CONTROLLER. I'm going to move inside and test the controller any one have one just quit working? Any other thoughts to check? Thanks

Usually an indication of a poor connection or battery.

Like Lou said, try the simple stuff first.
Have you tested the battery voltage? Should be over 13.

 

[dougcat]

I'll dig deeper tomorrow right now I do see 12v at the key switch, starter and fuel pump.

Its the cluster lights and gauges that don't have power. Not sure but the controller powers the the cluster so that's my focus. Battery checks ok its on a tender for the evening.

I did notice the new belt had some play so I'll take care of that. Thanks

 

[Richard001]

I'll dig deeper tomorrow right now

I do see 12v at the key switch, starter and fuel pump.

Its the cluster lights and gauges that don't have power. Not sure but the controller powers the the cluster so that's my focus. Battery checks ok its on a tender for the evening.

I did notice the new belt had some play so I'll take care of that. Thanks

A battery’s condition can be monitored by checking the electrolyte’s specific gravity with an inexpensive D-I-Y battery hydrometer to determine the percentage of sulphuric acid it contains.
A fully charged cell at 80 degrees F would show a specific gravity of 1.265. If all six cells are fully charged, an accurate digital voltmeter reading of battery voltage would show 12.68 volts.
Specific gravity for a 50 percent discharged cell would drop to 1.19 and battery voltage would fall to 12.24.
When specific gravity reaches 1.12, the cell is fully discharged and battery voltage falls to 11.89 volts, assuming the specific gravity is the same in all six cells.
Because specific gravity is affected by temperature, subtract .004 per 10 degree drop below 80 degrees F.


Richard

 

[LouNY]

With your volt meter on the starter solenoid main terminal and the frame ground you should have battery voltage, have some one turn the key to the start position and monitor your voltage. Then move your + lead to the actual starter connection and repeat.

 

[dougcat]

The controller and joint connector are tied into safety switches and the monitor lamp. I get 12v everywhere mentioned earlier and I'll add headlight and horn. The dwg attached is all I have to check for voltages/connectivity (page 254) there's 12 volts going in to controller, when I turn the key to acc pos, fuel pump runs, no monitor lamps, turn for glow plugs they work, next to start fuel pump still running, no starter.

I measure in acc mode at the joint connector no voltage should there be voltage on any of those 0.5RY wires? I have bypassed all lockout switches which run through the controller.

The main switch, all safety switches and starter work as intended. I go back to the controller is it not allowing a complete circuit connection because its bad? I don't know about these controllers oddly one function that does work are the glow plugs do work.

Does anyone have a better wiring diagram with voltages? Thanks Again

 

[arto98607]

Have you cleaned out the battery connections?

 

[dougcat]

What a rookie move I made. Did a visual of the fuses turns out 5A fuse feeds the controller when that's not working neither are the monitor lamps. I wouldn't say time wasted I ended up cleaning future points of electrical failure and learned how to test this and that.

What I don't know is what specifically led to the failure of the 5A fuse. Something shorted out that moment I tried to start last I saw the lights go dark. No crank.