How much more can a tractor pull with loaded tires?

[screamin400]

Why not try water fill first? Not as heavy but near zero cost.

I had thought about that but if it works or does not work the water has to come out for the winters -25 nights. I do not think I could get them dry.

 

[sixdogs]

If you're going to add weight I would use cast iron. You could put three sets on the rear plus I think you have cast rear centers. You could add the weight up front and it would pull all you want.

Adding fluid to tires has its disadvantages in that it rots the wheels and those aren't cheap and you never get it all out. I will no longer own a tire with loaded tires and the tire shop I go to will generally no longer change loaded tires because of the hassle.

Below is a thread I did on WW fluid in rear tires on a Kubota. With pictures. FYI

Think washer fluid in rear tires won't corrode?

I bought a used tractor with rears loaded with windshield washer fluid. Granted, it's not calcium chloride and most people think it doesn't corrode but here are some rusty pics. Tires were loaded for "a couple" years I was told and look at the rot. Luckily, I caught it in time and dumped the...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[sixdogs]

And here's a thread on "consider cast weights".

Consider cast weights instead of liquid in tires

My choice is cast weights over liquid in the tires. It wasn't always that way but happened fast after I got a flat in a filled tire two miles back in the woods in rural Maine. I was on my own and it was a big event. Some people need filled tires because of severe slopes but for most of us, take...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[kneedeep]

JMHO
I run treated water in rears on a Mahindra 8560, which is a heavy tractor. Wheel weights won’t pull ‘more’ plow if the tractor can’t slip the wheels engaged in the ground.
Ground would have to be soft and sweet for a 60 hp to roll dirt with a 5 bottom plow.
I had a 8’ disk in dry ground yesterday scratching out a hardpan duckhole to plant and due to tires being less than 60%, had to engage FWD just to keep a big disk moving.
A 4 or 5 bottom would stopped me dead in my tracks.
Loaded rears are great to help balance the FEL but most times I have to add a implement or 1000# 3pt counter weight to handle big loads with forks.

 

[ZiggyD]

Also, you may need significant weight on the front end to counter the drag of the plow.

Single little big issue when plowing with a tractor. Especially on dirt and uneven slopes where you need to adjust steering often.

 

[LouNY]

Well heck, let's start out with I hate liquid loaded tires, however;
When we got the new Farmall 400 in 1956 it came with the tires filled with calcium chloride solution and pulled a 4-14" bottom fast hitch plow, we have always plowed slow because of the rocks so HP wasn't as big of a deal as traction.
Then the Farmall 560 arrived in I think in 1960 with it's shinny new 4 -16" fast hitch plow and calcium filled tires.
Then arrived the Ford 8000 in in 1968 with no fluid in the tires but a full set of weights front and rear wheels, close to 1000#'s on each rear tire and a full rack of front end weights with the fancy semi-mounted 5-18" spring reset plows. (the previous 4 bottom plows were of a trip design that when a bottom tripped your stopped and reversed to reset) these fancy plows also had a side hill hitch which would allow moving the front of the plow a few inches each way to compensate for hill side drift.

Your M6? (111) is going to struggle some to pull a 5 bottom plow especially depending on the width of the bottoms. With the rear tires loaded it will likely do it in low range depending on the ground, in very easy plowing ground possibly into the M range.

 

[LouNY]

Single little big issue when plowing with a tractor. Especially on dirt and uneven slopes where you need to adjust steering often.

If the center of your plow is in line with the center of your tractor it should not need much steering "adjustment".

 

[Bentrim]

It is not necessarily the weight that will help the tractor pull the plow.With 111 horsepower you have enough for MOST conditions. Your tractor also uses electronic lower link sensing which can transfer weight to the tractor as it naintains the plow depth. Just like the old mechanical draft control on older tractors. So before you go out and unload your wallet, hook up the plow and go find out if you need additional weight. If wheel slip is too high then you will need additional wheight, but try it first.

 

[LouNY]

It is not necessarily the weight that will help the tractor pull the plow.With 111 horsepower you have enough for MOST conditions. Your tractor also uses electronic lower link sensing which can transfer weight to the tractor as it naintains the plow depth. Just like the old mechanical draft control on older tractors. So before you go out and unload your wallet, hook up the plow and go find out if you need additional weight. If wheel slip is too high then you will need additional wheight, but try it first.

All the draft control I've been around reduce the draft (pull) by raising the implement to a higher depth of tillage reducing the pull required. It did not maintain a depth.

 

[Bentrim]

All the draft control I've been around reduce the draft (pull) by raising the implement to a higher depth of tillage reducing the pull required. It did not maintain a depth.

You are right to the point draft control responds to the force either applied to the top link as the implement tried to rotate on the lower hitch pins, or by the pull applied to the lower lift links. The second has been used on later tractors and especially on electronic controlled hitches. The oldest mechanical system using lower link sensing I am aware of started with the JD 4010 and 3010. They also had a lever for depth contol or load control or a mixture of both.
Draft control will maintain a constant depth unless the soil varies in consistency, such as a strip of loam in sandy soils. Then some operator adjustment may be required to compensate for the soil type. A good demonstartion of draft control is when plowing over a knob and then going thru a ditch the draft control will attempt to maintain the same depth. Whereas position control would pull the plow out of the ground over the knob and bury the plow thru the ditch.
Some manufactures used a very sensitive draft and others were not sensitve at all. On my MF 245 I can lift or lower the plow by putting one finger on the tail wheel and lift or pushing on it. MF back in the 80's came out with a electronic controlled hitch for the larger tractors, quess most others have now too. It used two sensors one on each lower link and a sensor the told of the position on the lift shaft and yo could control the height it raised the amount of draft/poosition intermix and the depth it lowered. Agreat system until you had an electrical issue -- then the hair pulling began.