In my experience a longer bar on a smaller saw will make the saw unbalanced and feel more unwieldy. There also is the issue of if the oiler can keep up and oil a longer bar. I wouldn’t run anything longer than a 20” on my 261cm, which is a 50cc saw and it feels more balanced with an 18” bar. I have run a 25” bar on my 400c and it is not balanced. Moving to a lightweight 25” bar helps quite a bit, but my preference is still to run a 20” bar on it. My 400c absolutely rips with a 20” bar.
I have saws of two extremes. A stihl ms170 and an ms440. I find myself using the 170 about 80% of the time for felling, limbing and bucking. It’s a fraction of the weight and can do most of the work while saving my back. The 440 with a 20” chain comes out when the trees/logs are too big or when the 170 floods after fueling and don’t start.
WinterDeere
Super Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2011
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- 6,397
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- Tractor
- John Deere 3033R, 855 MFWD, 757 ZTrak; IH Cub Cadet 123
Same, but let's be clear, as folks are coming at this from two different directions:
1. A longer bar in smaller wood does not require substantially more horsepower.
2. But as soon as you find yourself cutting larger wood that has the bar buried, the horsepower requirement goes way up.
Using a long bar with the intent to avoid crouching down means you're cutting with the nose, which is dangerous as soon as you come across the first piece that wants to pinch the bar in a cut. Pinching on the upper quarter of the nose can cause similar kickback as trying to cut with that quadrant. You will get away with it for awhile, maybe even a long while, but probability of it eventually biting you is very high.
I cut with five bar lengths: 10", 14", 20", 28", and 36". For years, 90% of my work was with the 28" bar, but more recently it's mostly 20". There's a big difference in perceived saw weight due to being nose heavy, when running the 28" bar, you will notice the extra extended weight and the strain it puts on your back.
I generally try not to bend when cutting, though. Better to squat down, onto one knee if it's dry, or sitting back on my heels when it's wet. That puts me in a stronger position, and gives my legs a bit of a workout that they need after sitting all week at a desk, anyway.
I have forks on my tractor, and store my logs whole until it's time to process. So when I get too old to squat, I'll probably try lifting each one on the forks to buck it, maybe even position a wheelbarrow or other catch cradle under the log as I go.
IndyIan
Veteran Member
I guess try a longer bar? It will be pulling into the cut the whole time so maybe not any better?
I might also try cutting the logs into lengths your tractor can lift on pallet forks and just cut them with the dogs at the ideal height. Also a bigger saw might make things go quicker? 20" hardwood is nice to cut with a 372, but I guess a sharp chisel chain on a 346 will get through pretty fast too.
I might also try cutting the logs into lengths your tractor can lift on pallet forks and just cut them with the dogs at the ideal height. Also a bigger saw might make things go quicker? 20" hardwood is nice to cut with a 372, but I guess a sharp chisel chain on a 346 will get through pretty fast too.
charlessenf
Gold Member
OK I sympathize. A couple years ago I went for the Husky 24" saw and it worked nicely for the 20+" logs I needed to cut up with one issue.
Starting the thing was more difficult than my CS400 18" saw. Last year, I wound up taking it in for repairs because I couldn't start the thing to save . . . well you know.
As I was giving the shop my details, the fellow came out from the back to take my saw into the shop part of his operation as I turned back to the lady taking my details, I heard the saw fire up.
Turns out, I simply don't have the right arm for a saw this big - or the 'drop it' technique the repair fellow has perfected.
As to the bending, I squat down and cut halfway through the log moving from one end to the other, then roll it over and finish the cuts that way. (Using the CS400 18" saw).
"What a drag it is getting old . . . ."
i agree. Saws get heavier as you get older. I have used a stihl ms170 for limbing and brushing for a long time. Used a 14 inch .050 bar for 3/8 LP chain because the .043 chain would get pulled out of the bar groove too easily when cutting brush. I recently bought another ms 170 from a friend. I put a 16 inch bar for .043 chain on it. What a difference! The narrow .043 chain just zips through larger wood up to 14 inches, and the balance is pretty good. I can do limbing with it with better reach, and cutting near the tip is safer because the 16 inch .043 bar has a reduced tip diameter and the small engine has less torque and can't kick back as hard - a big advantage when you are tired at the end of the day. You do have to keep the chain sharp for good performance.
Now I have the 16 inch .043 ms 170, I get out my 025 stihl a lot less often. I recommend you try a 16 inch .043 bar and chain. It will replace a lot of heavier saw cutting. An ms 180 with it would do even more. The small bars and .043 chain are not too expensive. Worth trying it out.
Now I have the 16 inch .043 ms 170, I get out my 025 stihl a lot less often. I recommend you try a 16 inch .043 bar and chain. It will replace a lot of heavier saw cutting. An ms 180 with it would do even more. The small bars and .043 chain are not too expensive. Worth trying it out.
I have an ms170 and someone gave me a ms180. I cut with them and an old 034 super.
I think I will have to try that idea of yours putting a longer bar on the 180.
My arthritic 72 yo shoulders hate when I change the bar on the 034 from 16 to 20.
Bill
