Hydraulic auger recommendations for my FEL

[MtnViewRanch]

YES, you are missing something. A 12 GPM valve will only flow 12 GPM through the body of the valve. (Work port flow is not even a consideration in this) So any time that your tractor engine is running it will be pumping more than 12 GPM through the body of the 12 GPM valve, thus heating the oil. I suppose that if you NEVER run the tractor for more than a few minutes (3-5 is a few) then you will be fine. Otherwise, get BIGGER valves. Unless you just want hydraulic issues later down the road.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

YES, you are missing something. A 12 GPM valve will only flow 12 GPM through the body of the valve. (Work port flow is not even a consideration in this) So any time that your tractor engine is running it will be pumping more than 12 GPM through the body of the 12 GPM valve, thus heating the oil. I suppose that if you NEVER run the tractor for more than a few minutes (3-5 is a few) then you will be fine. Otherwise, get BIGGER valves. Unless you just want hydraulic issues later down the road.

I see what you're saying. I will check with WR long on Monday (hasn't shipped yet) but we discussed my expectations at length so I can only assume that I'm incorrectly categorizing it.

It's somewhat conflicting that he said it was not a switching system but he also said I could get 18gpm by just hooking up to the factory rear remotes.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I see what you're saying. I will check with WR long on Monday (hasn't shipped yet) but we discussed my expectations at length so I can only assume that I'm incorrectly categorizing it.

It's somewhat conflicting that he said it was not a switching system but he also said I could get 18gpm by just hooking up to the factory rear remotes.

I understand that they said it would not flow more than 12 GPM through the work ports, so not good for your auger. But typically on those types of valves, the work ports are all that the actual valve flows safely. You need the pressure and tank ports to be #10 ports to not have any issues.
If they are providing that size of manifold, then you will be all set.

If you went with diverters, you could have all of the auxiliary controls on a control grip and the actual cylinder control would be with a manual valve, not an electric valve that is either fully open or closed no feathering with those electric controls. You could control 4 separate functions and never move your hand from the remote lever.

But I doubt that they even offer that.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

I understand that they said it would not flow more than 12 GPM through the work ports, so not good for your auger. But typically on those types of valves, the work ports are all that the actual valve flows safely. You need the pressure and tank ports to be #10 ports to not have any issues.
If they are providing that size of manifold, then you will be all set.

I will confirm with them on Monday, but I do know that they did customize the manifold for my tractor as it has a higher flow than the standard kit. But I appreciate the help and will 100% make sure I know what I'm getting. I don't want to screw up my pump!