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Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
I wish you good luck with all that. If it were my project I would forget the pin. Bolt or no bolt it's not likely to fall out anytime soon. I would disconnect the hoses, unscrew the gland nut and pull the rod/piston unit out and deal with it. No real need to take the barrel off in my opinion. I do it that way every chance I get. I probably wouldn't go to New Holland for the seals though. $165 for the "kit" sounds a little steep to me.
Two questions: How would remove the "crimp" in the one area of the gland so that I can unscrew it and where can I get a better price on the seals? Thanks
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
Power Steering Cylinder Assy. W/fwd | New Holland Agriculture | MyCNH US Store
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I'm not sure what crimp your asking about. Looks like they used the same cylinder and seal kit for both 2 and 4 WD tractors. (oddly enough) Maybe I'm missing something but it looks like the nut has notches on the outside which should work well with a pipe wrench. (My tool of choice in this situation) So what do you see that's crimped?
The nut has 2 notches as you say. I forget the name of the pliers- like snap ring pliers. I'll try and find the tool but one of the notches has been peened in. Trying to turn this "as you say nut" is not possible with a screw driver and a hammer. The diagram on Messicks appears to show the notches on the outside of the nut not on the face as mine is. Are they different or is it an illusion, don't know. The peening is on the cylinder, not on the nut. I guess the manufacturer did not want the nut which holds the seal to back off and ultimately leak.Power Steering Cylinder Assy. W/fwd | New Holland Agriculture | MyCNH US Store
Find schematics, manuals, specifications and diagrams for POWER STEERING CYLINDER ASSY. W/FWD. Find genuine OEM parts for your needs.
I'm not sure what crimp your asking about. Looks like they used the same cylinder and seal kit for both 2 and 4 WD tractors. (oddly enough) Maybe I'm missing something but it looks like the nut has notches on the outside which should work well with a pipe wrench. (My tool of choice in this situation) So what do you see that's crimped?
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
Well you're looking at the cylinder, I'm looking at a diagram. I believe the gland is actually a nut (of sorts) threaded into the barrel. It very well could have been peened on assembly as a precaution. That doesn't mean it's permanently adhered. I would put a pipe wrench with a cheater pipe on the end of it onto that nut/gland/part (whatever it's called) and do my best to unscrew it. I would do that before removing it from the machine in all cases anyway. Having it securely mounted is far better than a vise attached to a bench. I carry two or three different size pipe wrenches and cheater pipes to match when I go out to work on a cylinder. Sometimes I will take a hand grinder and make some flat spots for the pipe wrench to grip on.
You know I apologize. The notches are on the side and the face. The part of the gland that is showing is only 3/16" deep. If you are looking at the diagram on Messicks like you were to buy the complete cylinder ($1000) and blow up the cylinder as much as possible which isn't much you can just about see the peen on the top notch.
Thanks Harry, I'll get it rebuilt on the tractor and let you know how it turns out.
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Thanks for all your help guys. Lots of great ideas. I'll get it rebuilt on the tractor and not worry about the stuck pin. The hydraulics are enough to turn the steering and fixing the very bad leak will do for as long as I own the tractor.
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
I seriously doubt the stubborn pin is much of a threat down the road. If you're really concerned about it (which I doubt) you can always take a cut off wheel, cut the distorted tab off and bolt larger flat washer on it's place.
Good idea, but I can clean up the tab and screw it back in place.
