Hydraulic auger recommendations for my FEL

[MtnViewRanch]

YES, you are missing something. A 12 GPM valve will only flow 12 GPM through the body of the valve. (Work port flow is not even a consideration in this) So any time that your tractor engine is running it will be pumping more than 12 GPM through the body of the 12 GPM valve, thus heating the oil. I suppose that if you NEVER run the tractor for more than a few minutes (3-5 is a few) then you will be fine. Otherwise, get BIGGER valves. Unless you just want hydraulic issues later down the road.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

YES, you are missing something. A 12 GPM valve will only flow 12 GPM through the body of the valve. (Work port flow is not even a consideration in this) So any time that your tractor engine is running it will be pumping more than 12 GPM through the body of the 12 GPM valve, thus heating the oil. I suppose that if you NEVER run the tractor for more than a few minutes (3-5 is a few) then you will be fine. Otherwise, get BIGGER valves. Unless you just want hydraulic issues later down the road.

I see what you're saying. I will check with WR long on Monday (hasn't shipped yet) but we discussed my expectations at length so I can only assume that I'm incorrectly categorizing it.

It's somewhat conflicting that he said it was not a switching system but he also said I could get 18gpm by just hooking up to the factory rear remotes.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I see what you're saying. I will check with WR long on Monday (hasn't shipped yet) but we discussed my expectations at length so I can only assume that I'm incorrectly categorizing it.

It's somewhat conflicting that he said it was not a switching system but he also said I could get 18gpm by just hooking up to the factory rear remotes.

I understand that they said it would not flow more than 12 GPM through the work ports, so not good for your auger. But typically on those types of valves, the work ports are all that the actual valve flows safely. You need the pressure and tank ports to be #10 ports to not have any issues.
If they are providing that size of manifold, then you will be all set.

If you went with diverters, you could have all of the auxiliary controls on a control grip and the actual cylinder control would be with a manual valve, not an electric valve that is either fully open or closed no feathering with those electric controls. You could control 4 separate functions and never move your hand from the remote lever.

But I doubt that they even offer that.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

I understand that they said it would not flow more than 12 GPM through the work ports, so not good for your auger. But typically on those types of valves, the work ports are all that the actual valve flows safely. You need the pressure and tank ports to be #10 ports to not have any issues.
If they are providing that size of manifold, then you will be all set.

I will confirm with them on Monday, but I do know that they did customize the manifold for my tractor as it has a higher flow than the standard kit. But I appreciate the help and will 100% make sure I know what I'm getting. I don't want to screw up my pump!

 

[In.the.Piñons]

So the kit arrived the other day. The manifold will allow for my tractors 18gpm flow on the stock remotes and 12gpm on the four WR Long remotes.

The hoses that run from the rear remotes, up to the torque tube on the FEL (to run the auger & grapple), were undersized (3/8th). They are sending out the correct ones (5/8th).

 

[leonz]

I've already bought two auger bits; 24" & 9" HD bits for hard soil.

I would return them for a 24 inch tree transplanting auger.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

So I got my holes (2.5ft x ~6ft) dug today.

My rocky, clay soil fought me the entire way. The 2.5ft auger bit was pretty useless when it hit any rock, as it would just stall out. It worked fine in soil with small roots though.

I had to put on the 9" auger bit and use it to break up the rock in the soil and even then I had to finish the job with a long pry bar to break up some of the rock. It took about 4 hour to get the two holes dug!

Wetting down the spoils sure did work great for getting it to stick to the auger so I could pull that stuff out of the hole.

 

[Squirrel's242]

So I got my holes (2.5ft x ~6ft) dug today.

My rocky, clay soil fought me the entire way. The 2.5ft auger bit was pretty useless when it hit any rock, as it would just stall out. It worked fine in soil with small roots though.

I had to put on the 9" auger bit and use it to break up the rock in the soil and even then I had to finish the job with a long pry bar to break up some of the rock. It took about 4 hour to get the two holes dug!

Wetting down the spoils sure did work great for getting it to stick to the auger so I could pull that stuff out of the hole.

Good work getting it done. Dealing with rock can really slow the progress but, you did it. When we needed too we use a rock bar to break up the compacted soil or rock that was interfering then charged on. An right about using the water to make the dirt stick. We have sand and when that was dry it would just sift out the bottom of the clamshells when cleaning out the hole. Water helped. Even to stick it to the auger bit.

4hrs on 2 holes is fine cause it's done. Imagine if you didn't have the tools you used? How much longer or how much more your body would hurt this morning??

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Imagine if you didn't have the tools you used? How much longer or how much more your body would hurt this morning??

Thanks for the encouragement.

I started out digging these holes a few months ago with an 8" electric hand auger (which I've used a bunch in the past) but the soil in this particular spot was too much for that tool. I'm sure if my life depended on it I could have got it done, but like you said it would have been too much stress on my body. Not worth beating myself up now that I have a tractor and can just spend my way out of the problem

 

[SiteEngineer]

That setup should work fine. 18 GPM fits right in the EP1530’s range, and routing from the rear remotes usually only loses a small amount of flow if you keep hose runs clean and the right size. I’d definitely fit a cross-port relief — it’s cheap protection if the bit binds up.

For sandstone and heavy clay, a rock bit or combo bit with carbide teeth will dig slower but handle abuse better.