ruffdog
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There are some bad import condensers out there too that are bad out of the box.
Ford 9N intermittent spark, won't run
- Thread starter JRP3
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CalG
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what type of "test light" can be placed between a coil and ground that shows if the points are good?
A dwell meter, sure. but a test light? Doesn't seem right considering a typical point's condenser circuit.
A dwell meter, sure. but a test light? Doesn't seem right considering a typical point's condenser circuit.
It's a 6-12 volt probe with a point on one end and a cable with an alligator clip on the other and a light in the clear plastic handle. I put the clip on the top post of the coil and put the probe to ground, when the ignition switch is on and the points are open it lights up and when you crank it and they close it turns off. At least that's what assume is happening.
Are the Tractor Supply ones any good? That's probably the closest source for me, maybe NAPA would have them too.
ruffdog
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My friends 8n would only have spark once in a while and he put new points in. I ended up putting in the old condenser to fix it. Then I read about other Ford owners having the same issue. I didn't research makers to find good/bad sources.
All the reviews on this kit from Tractor supply are 1 star 
I'll be avoiding that one.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tisco-tune-up-kit-atk6ffr
I'll be avoiding that one.https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tisco-tune-up-kit-atk6ffr
Hotpot
Member
I had a problem similar to yours with my 1974 IH 354 gas and i went round and round with it for about a year. It would start then wouldn't want to start. I don't like throwing money at problems so i tested everything still no luck. I finally replaced the distributor cap ( the old one looked good no cracks or damage and fit well but) some how it was shorting inside because soon as i replaced it never had another problem. The tractor sits for long periods of time now and still starts right up every time.
Dont know if it will help your situation?
Dont know if it will help your situation?
I would almost say if battery cables are clean and making good contact - replace the cap, rotor, points and condenser. We used to do that with every so many tune-ups to eliminate future problems. Most are low cost parts. Well, been a long time, maybe not now. Best wishes.
I'm trying to get it running so I can sell it but otherwise yes I'd probably do that.
Some progress, hot wired the coil and got consistent spark, took off the hot wire and still had consistent spark, so turned on the fuel and it started right up. Died after a few minutes. Hot wired again and got spark, this time no spark when I took off the hot wire. So either I have a bad connection in the ignition circuit, a bad switch, or a bad resistor I guess. At least I was able to get it moved out of my way, when I have more time I'll trace out the problem.