Finishing mower blade removal question

   / Finishing mower blade removal question #21  
Sure I have both. IR 3/4 air impact and 1/2 inch air impacts. Use of the cordless saves on the pulling hoses and I am able to use it away from the compressor. If you don't like those that is fine with me
All personal preference actually. In my situation air is easier.
 
   / Finishing mower blade removal question #22  
I've got an old Sullair 160 gasser (GM 4-cyl.). It puts out massive amounts of air. I haven't tried using air tools with it, but it sure does work dandy for sandblasting. ;) The 160 stands for 160cfm!

Sullair-4.jpg
 
   / Finishing mower blade removal question #23  
Away in the field an air impact is useless unless you bring a cordless compressor or generator and compressor
 
   / Finishing mower blade removal question #24  
It is preference and what you want to spend for convenience and performance. Professionals are changing to cordless all over
 
   / Finishing mower blade removal question #25  
If you want good performance for the least money and already have a compressor you go with air impact
 
   / Finishing mower blade removal question #26  
My contribution to this comes late - but I'll bet it's the solution.
Some old time finish mower has reversed threads. That is, to loosen them, turn the nuts clockwise.
Old Chrysler products used to have the lug nuts on one side with same reversed threads, but I can't remember which side it was
It was the left side that had/have the reversed threads. Took hundreds off when I worked at a service station back in the 60's and 70's.
 
   / Finishing mower blade removal question #27  
I bought a double pack power 20 volt cordless 1/2" hog ring impact wrench. That thing is a beast for removing nuts.
I would hook the mower up to the tractor, move it t a clear area, heat the nut, enough to break the rust loose, with a torch, spray the spindle bolt and nut with liquid wrench, block the blade off and let them sit for 24 hours and go for it. If that does not work, a 6 ft long 1 1/4 " galvanized pipe for a cheater bar on a breaker bar with a heavy socket. Split rim type sockets.
 
   / Finishing mower blade removal question #28  
I've never met a cordless impact with enough balls to break a blade nut on a brush hog or pto finish mower. The just don't have that kind of guts.
I use a Makita XWT - its got plenty of grunt 720#s of torque. Usually always works.

IF that don't work a breaker bar with a 2" pipe and on the other end a coal mining pike that gets me 8' I've broke 1/2 craftsman breaker bars with it. IF that don't work time to get out the fire.


bout to take off my blades after I do 1 last cut and sharpen for the spring. I'll soak threads with penetrating oil over night. I gotta hole on the top of my deck with access to the bolts.

 
   / Finishing mower blade removal question #29  
My big cordless impact has not met anything yet it could not handle with 1000 ftlb of torque and 1400 ftlb of reverse torque it works well. It is heavy but convenient in not having to drag hoses around and it can be preset for torque so after checking it with a torque wrench for the right setting it is all set for tightening the blade nuts. 3/4 inch air impact is on standby in case more is needed. Have also smaller cordless impacts for less demanding jobs that are easy to handle and very convenient to use.
 
 
 
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