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Long shot, but since you’ve checked the cables, make sure all of your safety switches are not set and preventing it from working. Wiggle the shifter and leave it in neutral, make sure the pto is off, etc. Safety switch wiring may have broke somewhere. Since you’ve had sporadic electricity...

I do this (put disposable gloves on first) with regular non-heated gloves; it helps tremendously.

Had to replace the battery in my whole house generator this morning…..this thread made me cautious,so I put any screws, bolts, fuses, etc in a small plastic food container with a snap on lid while I was working……success!

Check the alternator belt first; make sure it’s not slipping. With the engine off, check the battery voltage- should be roughly 12.5 or 12.6 Then start the engine and check yhe battery voltage again - should be roughly 13.6 to 14.6. If the voltage doesn’t change (go up) while the engine is...

I get my diesel in 5 gallon containers; I put some Silver PS in each container before I fill it up, so it’s always already mixed in. I do that year round. Keep the Red 911 PS bottles available just in case I need it, but never have. The only equipment I’ve ever had gelling issues with is...

Bucket is the best choice. I have a blower on an enclosed skidsteer, and it is a pain to use in wet snow. I have the blower off now and just use the bucket; much quicker and less stressful. I have my tractor as a back up. Use to plow with a truck until about three years ago. Could...

I’d add oil to the full mark. It’s measuring what’s in there now. The level shouldn’t change if you put the backhoe back on. I like to check the level on a regular basis, because it helps to detect slow leaks, especially in implements.

I tried killing weeds and grass around my inground pool one year using one of those large propane torches that you attach to a 25lb propane canister. It burned the tops just fine, but not the roots, so everything ultimately grew back. I’d think you’d have the same results with steam - unless...

no specific knowledge, but if it were me, I’d disconnect and then reconnect the quick connect hydraulic lines to the loader. Hopefully that will be a simple fix.

I use a 50 hp skidsteer with a blower. The blower performance obviously depends on how wet the snow is. With normal to wetter snow, the first path using the full blower width I just have to go slower. After the first path is opened, I usually just use half of the blower width in order to...

I put the chains on in the Fall when it’s warm snd dry; just more comfortable. May not always need them, but then I don’t have to think or worry about if I should put them on or not when heavier snow is forecast.

My son would get condensation in his Ford Edge taillights lens in the winter; it wouldn’t go away until summer. If you can cover the gauge to prevent more water hitting it, but leave room for airflow, then maybe stick a small fan by it to direct even just a small air flow over it; that may dry...

If money is not an issue, get both. There will be occasions where the type of snowfall that you get (light, wet, drifting, etc) will dictate which one would be best to use. I used to plow with my F350 and a Western MVP, but also have a tracked skid steer with a blower. I would use the...

Or if there is an o ring there, maybe it did not get put back in when you replaced the filter last year (if you had to remove that part when you replaced the filter)

See if you can find the manuals for it in this link. Sometimes installation manuals are available. https://bercomac.com/services-and-support/owner-manual

No

Maybe change whatever you are using for hearing protection first; might be quicker and cheaper. I use a padded headset (like headphones) that cover both ears in full - works very well for me on all of my equipment. It would probably work even better if I got newer ones with thicker...

Plus if you order from Omaha Steaks, you’ll be stuck with the styrofoam shipping container in your basement for the rest of your life…….

I’d start with just the fuel filter; that may solve the issue. Is it dying when you throttle up without putting it in gear? If it dies only after you put it in gear, there might be a safety switch somewhere that’s shutting it off.

Regarding the whole house generators, my Generac has a 15a fuse in the control panel. That fuse blew one time during a power outage, so the generator wouldn’t start. This was around midnight. Didn’t have a spare, but luckily found the same fuse in some electrical device around the...

In 1997, I lived in a development with public water and natural gas service. Had a storm that knocked out power for about a week over a large region. Still had running/hot water though; had a small 5,000 watt generator for lights and refrigerator. Was during the summer, so didn’t need...

For the whole house - furnace, water heater, generator……

Always better to be over prepared than not prepared at all. I always have the equipment ready to go (fueled up, etc), have a whole house propane generator on two 1,000 gallon tanks, and food and water. May only need it once every ten years, but you’ll thank yourself when it’s that time.

Use a booster on the battery to start it; if there is a noticeable difference in how it starts, then I’d put a new battery in.

This is an exploding parts diagram - small print, but sometimes they help to see if there’s something else in there that’s holding it in. https://store.germanbliss.com/Home/Assembly/kubota-bx2750a-s-no-2303678-and-up-parts-bx2750a-s-no-2303678-and-up-i00200-snowblower-assembly-bx2750a-parts

Instead of a rubber mallet, try a regular hammer. You don’t have to hit it hard - a couple of firm whacks may break it loose.

What I would do is take one of the O rings (assuming they are all the same size) with me to an auto parts store or a tractor dealer/shop and see if they have one to match it.

Just echoing the others above……that is normal. I just leave the little piles there and, as they build up, just push them back a little further or blow them away. The ground is still warm (I’m in the north east), so for a little while, any significant snow we get will basically have a layer...

I’ve never used a pull type 3pt blower, but if you lengthen the top link, that should raise up the front of the blower a bit. That should help somewhat with it digging in.

K

How do you know that the battery is working fine? Are the dash lights coming on when you turn the key? I ask because a bad battery would be the first thing I would suspect/check If the battery is good, check for loose wires/cables, or maybe for a blown fuse.

I had done a quick internet search before I posted this, and the general consensus seems to be that the shields just help keep the brake components in better shape a little longer. I can’t see how it protects them all that much better though. I just thought it was odd that they did not...

Swapped out tires on my 2019 Ford Explorer today. Noticed that the two rear brakes did not have the dust shields on them, but both front dust shields were installed. I had all four wheel bearings replaced about a month ago. Prior to the new wheel bearings getting installed, I know that...

Similar to EdGooding above, on my 1540, I have a lever to the left of my seat to move the pto in and out of neutral. Make sure that lever is not in neutral. To actually engage the pto, I use the push/turn button on the dash. Don’t know if your model is like that.

I don’t have to jack up the tractor, but I do need to jack up my zero turn to change the oil. I jack it up and then set it down on several 6x6 (might be 8x8) blocks of wood that I keep handy. Very stable.

Same here…..

No harm in calling them and explaining nicely what you’ve discovered and see what the response is. The “best” thing would be you could find another new (or low hours) one from 2019 somewhere and see what they’re selling for. That will give you an idea if you paid full price or a discounted...

Make sure that your settings on Safari allow for pop ups. That’s may be why the DMV site doesn’t seem to be working.

Not that problem specifically, but with those symptoms, I’d check for loose wiring or dirty grounds

Are you running the throttle too low? Rev it up a bit and see if that increases the dump speed. Also check the fluid level.

I used to spray WD40 on the ball and the hitch; that solved all of my “stuck hitch” problems.

Alot of times I will throttle down a bit in order to have smoother/more controlled bucket movements. Nothing wrong with having to adjust the throttle regularly when doing bucket work.

Check connections, grounds, fuses…….

I second this…after it’s soaked for a day, tapping it with a hammer may help break it free too

News reporters doing a live report at a site with heavy equipment and calling them “bull dozers”, even though they’re not……loaders, backhoes, skidsteers, etc.

I doubt that you’ll find a plow blade that can be swapped between a truck and a tractor. The truck will need the mount that will hold whatever brand of plow it is (such as Western, Fisher, Boss, etc). The tractor would have to have the same type of hardware (receivers). Then there is also...

Check your airbox/filter in case rodents chewed up your filter and the pieces ended up getting sucked in.

I was talking about the black corrugated plastic type piping, which should be much cheaper than the metal culvert

I had a small drainage stream going through one of my fields in a spot I need to drive past. . Drys out in the dry summer periods. I bought a 12’ long section of 2’ (I think) drainage pipe, fit it into the stream bed, and covered it with dirt. Was about 15 years ago at least, and it...

You have to try to plan for the worst case plowing scenario, and get whatever would handle that. Might be more cost up front, but when you’re in the middle of that worst case scenario, you’ll be thanking yourself. Example - I’m in the northeast (central NY). If we are about to get hit with...

I can’t answer your questions, but I always try to see if it’s something simple first. If it were me, I’d try a known good battery first before trying anything else. You never know……

I see stuff along the interstates occasionally - little piles of tires or mattresses and stuff like that. I figure the person pulled over in the middle of the night like their vehicle was disabled and quickly unloaded their junk then took off.

Not familiar with Toolcats, but I use a skidsteer with a heated cab for snow removal. I just rig up/plug in a small, strong portable fan to keep the windows from fogging up.

TV stations that have constant commercials about themselves and their news……the only viewers that see them are the ones already watching that station. Nobody who isn’t watching will see it, so what’s the point…..

Tracked skidsteer……doesn’t mess up the law at all. Actually used to snowblow paths through the lawn and fields with it for walking the dog.

As an add on to the above post, I used to use an open station tractor with a 3 pt blower. Very cold, wet, and slow. In 2009, I bought a skidsteer with an enclosed heated cab and a blower. It’s great. That would be my recommendation for snow removal. I do my driveway and my neighbor’s -...

I think probably most of us with tractors/equipment have “been there/done that”……. That kind of mud is like driving on ice. As long as you have another vehicle and tow strap like you did, then it’s just an issue of taking the time to pull it out. If you had had more weight on your 3 pt (and...

Does the engine die on its own? If so, does it sputter to a stop?

15+ years ago when my tractor was my only equipment, I got a quick hitch to try and make swapping out the 3 pt implements easier and quicker (finish mower, brush hog, blade, tiller, snowblower). My experience with it proved it was neither. I ended up just leaving the quick hitch at the side...

Did the shop that fixed the short say what the shorted wire looked like? Just wondering if it was vermin/mouse related - chewed on wires.

Can just measure the battery space to find one the correct physical size, then just get the one that size with the highest cca

Maybe the seat suspension? Look under the seat. If it is, then time to go on a diet……..(ha ha)

Didn’t watch this, but maybe it might help…..

Heat it up just a little bit - I use one of those handheld blue propane cylinder torches. It melts any hardened grease that’s clogging the zerk. Don’t need to heat it alot; just about two seconds in the flame.

Nice; leds put out alot of light. If you use it for snow removal, you’ll find that the more lights you have (front, rear, sides), the much easier it will be when you’re working in yhe dark.

I thought the same before I looked at the pictures; that it would be full of rust holes.

They don’t even look that old. Good find.

I had a 2006 F350 CC with a sliding rear window and a Leer bed cap. The rear window still vented fine.

I used to spray the ball and trailer hitch with WD40 - makes it much easier to both hook it up and later unhook it.

Might be the starter fluid leaking…….. Sorry….couldn’t resist.

Just curious what you mean by frost damage to the walls - the inside drywall? If so, presumably just the normal vapor barrier protection used in house building (like Tyvek).

Son had a new battery from Pep Boys put in his Ford Edge about two years ago; don’t recall the brand. Within a year, it had to be jumped every single time. Repaced it with one from NAPA last year, and no problems since then. Sometimes you just get a bad battery…… On the flip side, I...

If you have no need for the trusts anymore, review the trust agreement to see what your ability (as Trustee) is to terminate the trust. Generally (not in all cases), a Trustee can terminate a trust by simply distributing the remaining assets to the beneficiaries.

Drivers who stop 1,000 feet away from a stopped school bus……..

Check the seat safety switch wiring really closely. On my zero turn, the wiring into the connector has simply broke over time; taped it back together and it’s been fine since then.

For any mower in general, I’d run it at the max rpm. That should give you the best cut.

12.86v is an odd number when it’s not running. I agree with the posters above in that it may be bad. If it were me, I’d throw a brand new battery in. May solve the issue. If not, always good to have a spare battery around…..

Central NY….. They’re everywhere….

Kind of qualifies as hauling something wrong…….they were doing about 80mph - thought the whole fender would fly off

https://imgur.io/gallery/jgvyoM4

No - the meter is fine. It’s that one battery that’s reading 3.8v that is screwy. If it were me, I’d consider that 13.8v battery to be bad.

It shouldn’t be at 13v when it’s not charging; max should be 12.6v. Might be bad. See if it will start with just that second battery as the only one connected (assuming it is a good battery).

Might be in this link - I didn’t look for your specific model https://www.badboymowerparts.com/018-7033-00-1-2-20-X-1-1-2-Lug-Bolts-Zinc.html

Might help…… https://www.jensales.com/content/ppp/belarus-tractor-operators-manual-be-o-5-8-9-ser.pdf

For the bouncing, just drive slower. For the leak down, that’s normal; my MF1540 does that (slow leak down of the 3 pt and creaking)

I’d keep the bucket raised when I was mowing close to the fence line, so as to not accidentally take out any fencing……. Otherwise I keep it low - a foot or so off the ground. Seems to ride smoother when it’s low too.

Can’t answer the question, but maybe if you take the tine into tractor Supply or an ag machinery desler, they might be able to find a physical match (substitute)

https://www.justanswer.com/traffic-law/80zw2-ny-state-need-license-plate-haul-log-splitter.html

Not familiar with exactly what you’re dealing with, but I’ve used smaller ratchet straps to try to pull things like that a bit.

My first thought is bad fuel, or gas got added accidentally. Possibly clogged fuel filter. If it were me, I’d drain the fuel tank, change the fuel filter, and see what happens.

Just a guess, but that hissing sound might be a relief valve. I used to hear that on my excavator when I raised the blade; when it got to the top, if I didn’t push down on the lever a bit , it would still try to raise the blade slightly and make a bit of a hissing sound while it was trying.

I use my tractor to pull out my zero turn when it gets stuck…… Zero turn is much quicker and more comfortable than a tractor, at least in my case. You learn to avoid the wet spots until they dry up enough to get there.

Had a neighbor use one of those weedeater saw blades for saplings and such that had grown for a few years along a fence line; it did a nice job.

Idling won’t hurt it; I’d let it idle.

Change all fluids (gas and oil), air filter, battery, grease/lube stuff, then fire it up…….

Put a wanted ad in your local Craigslist. Might be some out there not being used that the owner hasn’t tried to sell. Can’t hurt to try at least.

From a google search….hopefully it applies to yours

Two things I would try/check: The next time it starts to stall, completely remove the fuel cap (instead of just loosening it), and then just let it sit there for a bit without reducing the throttle and see if the engine goes back to normal. Even though it’s been serviced, pull out the air...

I was taught to always drain the air from the tank so that moisture doesn’t build up when not in use, so that’s what I’ve always done. I just have a little 12 gal/125 psi Craftsman though.

Is hiring a landscaping company with a hydroseed machine viable? They can shoot it pretty far.

I think I got some compressor oil years ago at Tractor Supply; it will be labeled as such.

Also….for what it’s worth…..engine oil in a diesel will turn dark black almost immediately. That’s normal. It’s not like car engine oil that will stay relatively clear for a long time. The best way to track the engine oil usage is to write the date and hours on the filter when you change...

Diesel is still easily $.50+ higher everywhere I see - Central NY region

All that I can offer is that I bought a new skidsteer in 2009. Dealer told me to keep the battery detached when not in use so as to not drain down the battery. He was correct. About six years later, had to replace the alternator. I stopped disconnecting the battery just to see what...

You may not always be able to turn off the pto though before the engine shuts off. Example - If you stall the tractor while doing something with the 3 pt

This link is one of many threads; I think I saw a more recent one in the past few weeks. I’ve never sharpened mine; 20 years old. Can look at the blades by lowering the cutter onto large sturdy wood blocks on at least four spots under the frame itself, then just look (don’t crawl) under...

One more question- when it starts to bog down, if you lift the 3 pt/mower with the mower still running, does the bogging stop? If it still bogs with the 3 pt raised, shut off the pto/mower to see if the bogging stops. That all would just help to identify if the mower itself is the cause. Is...

Is the mower possibly set for too low of a cut? Test it by raising it noticeably (say maybe three inches), then mow for a bit and see if it still bogs down.

Look on Craigslist; I’ve purchased tires with excellent tread left for very cheap.

I don’t know anything about that mower, but generally a fan belt is tightened by loosening the alternator, then moving the alternator until the belt is tighter, and the re-tighten the alternator in that position. It’s possible that your fan belt is stretched; maybe that’s why it came off.

No knowledge myself, but the video below pops up in a Google search….don’t know if it will help you

I’ve found that making sure there’s grease on both the pto shaft end and the coupler/receiver helps alot. Same with making sure the part of the pto shaft where the extension slides in and out is also greased. Even just WD40 helps. Basically you just want every part to move around real easily.

You say that you added 2.5 gallons of hydraulic fluid 20 hours ago - have you checked the fluid level since the bogging down started in case you’re losing fluid somehow? You probably have, but figured it would be best to ask.

I’d start with the fuel - check that the filter/bowl is clean and not clogged. Make sure there’s fuel in the tank. You didn’t by chance turn off (close) the fuel line back when the tire was flat, and now forget to re-open the valve?

This link came up in a google search; doesn’t seem too bad of a job…..just need patience and penetrating oil https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/bx25d-fan-belt.38634/

Had a similar issue maybe 7 or so years ago, except the mouse had chewed through the hard plastic housing of the pump (I think that’s what it was). I had had a small opening (maybe 4” square) cut into the drywall behind the dishwasher previously to access a pipe joint leak, and left it open...

And….always check more than just their first listings shown; those seem to generally be higher priced. If you scroll down, sometimes you’ll find the exact same item cheaper.

Yes

Need to turn the key

If it’s not a loose battery cable described above, it might be a safety switch somewhere - make sure everything is in neutral, etc, etc. On my zero turn, one of the wires for one of the safety switches somehow broke on its own a few years back. Had worked fine when I last used it, but nothing...

Nothing being done wrong here - just thought it was interesting; have never seen that many bikes on a personal vehicle

Make sure that the hydraulic filters are tight; not letting a little bit of air in. They probably are fine, but you never know…..

Might be simpler/easier to get a battery powered hedge trimmer and just walk the paths once and awhile to lop off the stuff growing into the trails. I do that for the pricker bush branches that grow around the edges of the yard that try to stab me when I’m mowing …..

I’d use a separate sheath for each hose, simply in case I have to replace just one hose at some point. Just makes the change a little easier.

Maybe dig out the dirt around the wellhead a few feet and see if you see any holes in the casing that water could escape from. If there was a break in the pipe casing lower than that, it probably would not come to the surface unless there was alot of force pushing it up. Is the water...

I assume you’re talking about the well head out in the yard? If so, open the well cap and see if the water is overflowing out of that.

Can’t picture exactly what you’re describing, but brush hog blades should not be fixed solid to the shaft (like you would find on a finish mower). There has to be some “give” on the brush hog blades, because they basically work by smashing into the grass/shrubs/saplings, etc. For the blade...

I’m no mechanic, but if it were me, I’d check everything I mentioned above. Sounds something fuel related.

Check all of the easy stuff first - fuel filter, air filter, fuel lines, gunk in the fuel tank, possibly bad fuel, check your belts, fluid levels, etc After the rpms drop, do they come back up on their own? If you shut it off, and then tutn it back on, does it run normal?

What happens when it quits? Does the engine sputter/cough/slowly die, or is it a quick shut off (like you turned the key off)?

Maybe I missed it in your post, but check your air filter - make sure rodents didn’t build a nest in it over the winter and clog it up.

It has been coming up for close to a month I think. I just click on the “continue without supporting “ and then log in.

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=jd&th=596778

A google search result…., https://aftermarket.supply/john-deere/m90284.html

This is just based on a google search; I have no personal knowledge. Are you sure that all of your warning lights are operational (bulbs all light up)? https://www.georgiaffa.org/docs/sidemodules/25100_John%20Deere%205045E,%205055E,%205065E,%205075E%20FT4%20Tractors%20Operators%20Manual.pdf

Putting the belt on wrong would not cause this. You can always test it by taking the belt off and then trying to engaging it.

My first thought is a safety switch. Even though you’ve checked the safeties, I’d triple check.

Just a shot in the dark regarding the bent pto shaft, but did you move the mower around somehow using the loader since you last used it (maybe to store the mower somewhere over the winter)? It would be easy to accidentally bend a pto shaft like that with a loader bucket without realizing...

I have that same issue with my MF1540; it’s even worse when the loader is on it. I just grab it with my fingertips and get my hands under a better section as quick as I can. Try not to smash my fingers.

I think i used duct tape once as a temporary fix until I got a new bottle; a plastic bag might melt. Didn’t have any issues.

No specific answer, but I’d check the hydraulic fluid level first. Make sure it’s full.

It’s been awhile, but on my Ferris ZTR, the mower engagement switch went bad and I had to replace it. It’s been to long to recall what exactly occurred when it happened, but that may be something to look at.

It should always be fully open or full closed (so valve handle all the way one way, or all the way the other way). My understanding is that it’s there mainly just to shut off the fuel flow when changing the filter.

The valve in your picture is, I think, in the closed position. That’s easy to test - just unscrew and take the filter and housing off, then move the valve between open and closed to confirm which is which. Fuel will flow out with it in the open position when the filter is removed

Agree with K5lwq above - the high range on my MF1540 is useless for anything but driving on a flat paved road.

Can’t explain the filter connections, etc, but presumably there is an o ring in the filter housing where it screws in - I’d check that first to make sure it’s there and in good condition. Always start with the simple stuff first…..,

I don’t know what you were clearing, but if it was sticks and brush, look under the tractor to make sure that nothing (like a stick) is jamming anything.

Old post, but should still apply….. https://www.mytractorforum.com/threads/425-deck-compatibility-question.231554/

I’m a homeowner with a tractor, skidsteer, commercial zero turn, and related attachments. Original cost all together of roughly $70k. I have never separately insured them. In the 23 years of owning equipment, I’ve never had an issue where I would have needed insurance coverage for them...

I had a 2006 F350 5.4l that I used to tow a 10k equipment trailer. Trailer weighed 2k, so I could put 8k on the trailer. The truck handled it ok - not the greatest, but it got the job done.

Can’t hurt to check the air filter - make sure there’s not a critter nest in there blocking the air

Don’t know anything about that mower, but in general, raise it to the highest level and then mow. After that, just lower it a bit each time you mow until you get it to your desired permanent height. At that point, you should be able to mow at normal speed

My first tractor was a B7500. As was said sbove, it got the job done , but just have to be patient. I had two large piles of foundation dirt on my land when I bought the house. When moving the dirt, at times it felt like I was using a little tablespoon……just kept at it though.

The rocks won’t damage the tiller. It will bang and bounce around alot. Presumably it has a slip clutch. I never broke or bent anything on my tiller, and I worked it hard. They are built tough.

Running a tiller through it will find the rocks. What I would do with mine (similar setup to yours) is just make some passes with the tiller, then go around and put rocks in the loader and create a rock pile somewhere to dump them. After you think you have all if the rocks removed, it’ll...

I just fill up gear oil to the top. I’ve never had oil in a reservoir for a snowblower chain. Most likely just grease (but not on the chain itself). Look around for grease zerks (or a hoke where a zerk was or should be). I’ve always just sprayed my blower chain itself with WD40 once in...

Generally the hydraulics should be self bleeding; cycling it a few times should do it. After you check the fluid level as suggested above, make sure the new hose isn’t leaking at the connections.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/kubota-l3300-hydraulic-check.102401/

Home Depot rents them per their website. No idea as to the cost though…..

Something like this

I have a MF1540. Same issue when brush hogging a field once at the end if each summer. The radiator fins get clogged deep inside. Blowing with an air compressor or just brushing the fins won’t get it all. What i do when the engine is cold is just take a garden hose and let water run...

As described above, check all of the cable ends. Actually take yhem off, clean them up, and tighten them back on. It’s possible too that there is corrosion that you can’t see inside a cable.

Make sure the safety switches aren’t the cause after the stall - gear in neutral, pto off, etc

I have an exterminating company spray my house exterior and other structures (sheds, gazebos) each spring for bees. Costs about $250, and have never had an issue with bees since.

Older thread that might be of some help (or not)….. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/john-deere-4400-will-not-turn-over.345648/

Is the blower hydraulic, or a 3 pt pto blower? In either case, if the engine bogs down, will the rpms immediately go back to normal if you shut off the blower? Just trying to determine first if the blower is causing the problem vs the tractor itself.

If you don’t want the cut wood, maybe hire someone to clear it, with their payment being they can take the wood and sell it. Then you end up with no out of pocket costs, and your land is cleared.

I’ve had pretty good luck on rusty things with PB Blaster - is that one that you’ve tried? Just need to let it soak for a day or so.

My advice is the same as above - just bring the old hoses in, and get new ones made. They make them quick, are very reasonably priced, and you know the new ones will fit perfectly. I have a heavy duty truck shop in town that has their own hose department. Maybe search for one of those...

I do the same….

Excellent point…..you may be just as shocked as how much you might be able to sell your current equipment for.

No experience…..but just a general comment. No matter what model heater you end up with, if you put a small 12v fan in the cab to circulate the air/heat, it will heat up much more uniformly. It will also help to reduce fogging.

I put mine about 15 feet apart; just enough so that I can pretty much almost always have one in sight, even in blowing snow. Suggestion - get a roll of reflective tape and put a large piece at the top and middle. Make it look like a little flag (vs just tightly wrapped around the marker)...

Assuming it’s hst, the first thing I would check is the fluid level.

Is that your picture, or just one that you found? I ask because I have a MF 1540 with a detachable loader; it has two legs of the front arms that fold down to support the loader when it it detached (basically right about where that wood cross bar). There can’t be anything on the end (where...

It shouldn’t have any effect, but what is the result if you don’t lock the rear differential?

Kind of a towing/hauling wrong picture……saw it today on an overpass over 81 in PA. No idea how he did it, but it looks like he backed the trailer over the edge of the overpass based on the tire tracks. I guess he has to work on his backing skills some more…..

Can’t answer your question, but my advice would be to take the tiller off when mowing. You may get an uneven cut when you’re mowing with the tiller on because it may bounce around. May even make the ride uncomfortable. Just my $.02……

I’m no mechanic, but if it was me, I’d try to somehow get it rolling in neutral and then try shifting. Maybe have a truck pull it slowly with a tow strap. I’m assuming it’s in neutral already, of course

Not sure if this helps

This is what Google Translate says…….you can use it with your phone camera to get closer to the characters that it did not translate.

If it were me, I’d put a completely different battery in to try before moving on to the more complicated stuff. Also check all of your safety switches and their wires; it’s possible it has nothing to do with the heater or battery.