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Wish I could help you, just don't have any info on that model.

As simple as that cross bar is go to a machine shop and have a new one made if it is not able to be sourced.

If you intend to use a drawbar mounted to the 3 point lift arms then you need to put some "Stay Bars" on it to keep the drawbar stabil. Here is a pic of some on an old Ford, they are usually available at most farm stores and are adjustable so they can be used on almost any tractor with a (Cat1)...

Liquid Wrench (1) and Acetone/ATF (2), were the top two winners on the Project Farm test of penetrating lubricants.

I am assuming this is a front mount engine, check the spring that makes the connection from the coil to the points. In fact take the distributor off where you can get to it on the bench to clean, check all the connections and test for spark. Be much easier to see what you are doing. It will only...

PB Blaster for most general things but Kroil if I need heavy duty penetration. Got hard to find Kroil locally so now I just order from Amazon.

I like is this simple diagram for wiring the N and hundred series tractors.

Gotta say that is one I would welcome cutting vs what I have or even my neighbors that I sometimes cut. One field steep enough you either wear a seat belt or put your feet on the dash of the tractor to stay in the seat. Although there has been a time or two the pucker factor took a pinch out of...

I remember those days, way to many of them in fact. Somehow I was the one that always ended up at the top of the barn putting up hay or housing tobacco. Bean hay was always the worst. Worked a few times for this one guy whose barn had only one opening into the loft for hay or people and it was...

Would be nice to own a bank mower, just don't have enough to justify the cost of one and a sickle bar just cannot get close enough. Even better would hiring someone to do all the trimming and mowing IF you could find anyone that would show up. I guess nature and society is saying the old fat...

If your meter is a terminal type it must be between the battery and alternators battery terminal to indicate charge

I don't have one and guess they would be considered mid sized by today's standards. Last time I looked at one (Colorado) I commented to the people with me that they were as big as the 1/2 ton pickups of the 70's and 80's. Trucks you could get into without a step ladder, easily reach into the bed...

Most folks in east Kentucky and east Tennessee will drink anything... and have. :D

The way things have been going for me this year I am about ready to send up the white flag... but not yet :LOL:

For the record I HATE MOWING!!! If I could afford to astro turf the place I would in a heart beat. However I trim every Tuesday for 3+ hours, 6 if I go all out and do the ditches and road bank. Mow on Wednesday for another 3+ hours provided the weather is permitting (no rain). Anything else...

Yeah they had better be, I have been wearing them for years. Not really by choice or because I like them but because of neuropathy in both feet. Crocs are loose enough not to put pressure on the feet, wearing a regular shoe the pain is unbearable to the point of being unable to stand. Cannot...

Did you make a connection from #2 to the battery post on the alternator? Post #1 must make contact with 12V to excite the alternator before it will charge, the best way to do this is to install an ignition switch that provides an accessory terminal. Connecting the #1 to the accessory terminal...

I don't know that you can stop it from developing moisture from condensation, those gear boxes get REALLY hot with no way to cool. Keeping it covered after it has cooled off should help keep the amount of water it develops but I doubt anything will stop it from happening. You do need to keep the...

Quite a bit of air flow over a tow vehicle does deflect down into the low pressure area created behind the vehicle so the hood on the equipment can/could be subject to the full force at highway speeds.

Yeah, I forgot about the tire air pressure... I remember that biting me more than once.

It has already been said, variables, and everybody has different ones to deal with. Equipment being used is, IMHO, one of the biggest. I have places I will not even consider taking my 1025R because it feels and is so tippy (had the wheels off the ground more than I like) but don't even give a...

$20 gets you a part of a roll of wire... maybe

One of the reasons for hauling backwards is many of today's tractor have hoods that lift from the front. Haul the tractor backwards and wind cannot get under the hood were as hauling it forward you risk the chance of building enough air pressure under the hood ripping it off, especially if the...

I would just haul it and not worry. Things sometimes happen when hauling equipment that cannot be helped. Years ago my company truck was being hauled on a drop deck lowboy to be used as flagger for a piece of equipment we were picking up, the glass was broken out of the pickup by something...

As long as the spindle bearing for the blades are free to spin then you need to adjust the tire. There is a procedure, should be able to find it on line, for setting the load/pressure of the tire against the plate on which the blades are mounted. I no longer have the adjusting info but as best...

As they say, you can lead a horse to water...

It is HOWSE (don't have any idea of model #). I bought one way back in the 70's for $100, still had the brand stickers but no s/n to be found. My SIL is still using it, good cutter.

I will bet good money everyone of those purchasing a 3 point disk is doing for the convenience of handling.

I agree 110%, a 3 point disk just will not cut/work ground like an old pull disk will.

Good job!

That being the case then the simplest thing would be to pick a time/day yearly or semi annually to grease all the equipment and then be done with it till the next time. Not many pieces of equipment (though there is some) needs grease each time it is used. Pieces that do need extra care should be...

When I bought mine I accidently stumbled on a semi-local machine shop that had made a few box blades for some reason or other. I got the last one which was a 7' that is BUILT, don't think a tank could hurt it and it is very heavy. All 1/2" steel with AR end plates for $700, I don't see how he...

I just grease PTO equipment each time get I get done using them, better to much than not enough. But if you really want to keep up with time then simply get a notebook and record the tractors hour reading each time you use the equipment.

Wiring harnesses are not that complicated, get some bulk wire, a few rolls of tape and make your own. I have made several for different tractors over the years. No way would I pay $500 for one.

45021E: 1965-1968, 4=4000 series, 50=Industrial, 2=Gas, 1=No PTO, E=Select-O-Speed. I have not seen that unit on the back before.

You know that ain't gonna happen, young-in's already know everything... just ask em'

Same thing can be said for blades, how many think to inspect blades after encountering something significant or just check them annually for normal wear? Of the people I know who own a rotary cutter, it's hook it up and go, only looking under it if something has tangled up like fence wire. IMHO...

It is meant to give additional support to the ring gear. Extra anti-deflection support, usually only found on floating axle diffs.

It is the thrust block for the ring gear.

Those mowing the highway shoulders worry the crap out of me, seeing all the different kinds of junk thrown up on the road in areas they have already cut. If I can I will go out of my way to avoid mowing zones for that reason. Homeowners, my problem with them is 90% of them have the discharge...

An old wives tale, it is no harder on a diesel to start than it is for a gas burner. IMHO it came from the older diesels without the glow plugs or preheater systems we have today. Engines that had to be cranked on for a bit before they built enough compression temperature to fire up. Had to wind...

Sounds like your spring that connects the governor to the rod is weak. They can be a PIA to get adjusted right once you have replace it. BUT Now I hate to be the bearer of bad news but your Ford 851 is not going to run a tiller, the ground speed is to fast. To use a tiller the 851 would need...

What tractor are we talking about?

Yeah, BTDT for over 50 years. When I got married the wife came with a horse and as soon as my daughter knew anything she had to have one. We, somehow, got to keep and take care off hers horse after she moved out. Strange how it was better that we kept, fed and tended to HER horse even though she...

Do like I did, finally wore out the horses and now the fences are gone...

I know the tractor is new to you, I would recommend you get in the habit of filling the fuel tank when you get done using the tractor for the day. Two reasons, one, keeping the tank full will help prevent condensation. Two, you will never have to check or wonder if you have enough gas in it when...

I also bought one of those, always thought I was pretty good at holding the angle. It proved me wrong. About 5 or 6 quick passes and the blades are ready to go.

You have not done anything that any number of people have not also done in the past. It is a bit embarrassing to admit but it is a cheap (relatively speaking with the price of gas) fix. As was mentioned only open the sediment valve 2 turns, opening it all the way accesses the reserve which is...

You need something that will remove metal from the blades to sharpen them. A belt sander works really good, an angle grinder with a flap disk or bench grinder are the standard. Can even sharpen with a plain ole file if want but the only thing that "device" will remove is money from your wallet.

And has not been back since...

I do believe you just might have found something. :LOL:

Trouble is the majority of people that own trailers never give any thought to the age of the tires or the affects of sun light on those tires simply because most trailers only get random usage. Also if given a coursey look the tread will appear deep enough and as long as it is not flat probably...

I had a bunch of old 1/4" chain, that I have no idea where it came from, after I got hit in the back a few times by my cutter I spent an afternoon spot welding short piece of chain to it. Not been hit since.

I don't think you can go wrong using corn head grease, it is what I use in my steering and cutter gear boxes and have for years.

Looks like a typical 8N clutch housing. N's leak usually from the input shaft of the transmission and unless you know how to properly install the rear main seal of the engine it is a sure thing it will leak. The old engines use a rope seal, which I REALLY like. Put in correctly they are IMHO one...

Years ago I worked with a guy who sharpened his blades using a cutting torch. He would skim the edge just enough to shave off the rounded part. Needless to say he had to replace the blades from time to time depending on how many times he "sharpened" the blades. Never balanced them either, he...

Unless he had loosened the distributor for some reason there is no way for it to jump time short of a major failure and he would have noticed that. The cam and gear are keyed. The clip missing could change the timing just enough to cause it to backfire. I keep a spare clip or two around since...

I am a firm believer in Stihl, for me they just last. Over the past 2 years I have been using their AK series home owner line of battery operated equipment and it is so much easier on me because of the difference in weights. For example it takes me 4 hours to trim most everything to 6+ hours to...

I have a hydraulic top link, chain works better, faster to changes in contour. There's just some ground a flail is no good for mowing and unfortunately I happen to own some.

You know you are getting spark, good an blue I assume, anything else is not good enough. Check to be sure the fuel is getting to the carb by removing the line at the carb or if it has one the plug on the bottom of the carb. My guess is that since it was running until it was moved around some...

Using a rigid top link is the worst thing to do, yeah it keeps the mower from scalping but it also lifts the cutter completely off the ground as the tractor goes over the top of a rise and the 3 point cannot float any lower. The same thing can happen when the tractor is transitioning from the...

The old 8N Fords only had 24 HP and were designed by Henry specifically to pull 2 bottom plows all day long.

I see your using the best tractor for plowing. :LOL:

I have a Mott/Alamo SHD 72, fine cut with 182 knives (96 stations), it has the standard rotation which is the same as tire rotation. I think that is the most useful/practical way for it rotate as it picks up the grass pushed by the tires. I also have a New Holland 918H that has the option to...

I have used 1/4" chain for years for a top link on mowers and bush hogs, so far never had an issue with breakage. And I have been over some horribly rough/bumpy ground.

Believe it or not I have seen smaller needle bearings used in that same location in some Clark and Spicer 5 speeds used in trucks.

Short answer is yeah, it is constantly turning. When the clutch is engaged the input shaft spins at the same speed as the engine and since it is geared directly to the countershaft, the countershaft is constantly spinning as well. The speed at which the bearing your referring to is spinning is...

N tractor hoods all seen to rust out in that line of the hood due to the bracing holding crud and moisture with no real good way to clean it out. Pretty much there are only two ways to fix it right, cut out the rot and weld in replacement pieces it like in the pdf Ed linked to or replace the...

The only way, the ONLY way anyone else uses my tractor is if I am on it. That especially includes family!

My neighbor, who is a complete and total tool, this year has cut his grass only when it has been or is raining and usually at 6 am. We have had more rain this year than in recent past and with the exception of the last time the grass has always been soaked. The last time he cut was two weeks...

Yeah I am aware of making a living getting in the way of doing things, well past that now. Sleeping not so much but eating, usually on the run, for sure. I remember you saying the brakes on your other trailer were still working, so the truck is out of the picture. I agree the most likely...

So what have you done toward finding the problem? Most of the posts speak to the connections being the problem and unless I have missed it (if I have my apologies) I have not seen you post about checking or repairing any.

Or you can use a BFH (big f-n' hammer) actually I use two, place one against the side of the boss the tie rod passes though and then hit it with the other. A few good shocks will loosen the tie rod and nothing ever touches the tie rod.

1975-1976 Model 535 Industrial, diesel, 540 transmission PTO, 6x4 manual reversing transmission. That's what I get from the model number if I am seeing it correctly.

You said the controller works as it should on another trailer, good, truck is out of it. In all likelihood the electronics in the box are not quite right in that it reports the battery needs charge at 12.4 volts when others may go down to 12.0 or lower before indicating a need for charge. Hook...

The N tractor, if it still has the OEM PTO shaft, will be a 1 1/8". Adapters should be readily available at most any frm store. A better option if you intend to use it regularly IMHO would be to change out the PTO shaft with modern replacement that is the standard 1 3/8" size. Four bolts and...

Add 2 oz. to each 5 gallon can.

Ed is right about adding some sealant to the mating surfaces, I prefer #2 Permatex. Make sure you use the thinnest of thin coats. I stay away from RTV, it has its uses like valve covers, oil pan, ect. but I do not like around things with close tolerances. If it cures the least little bit...

The 7 pin connector does have the ground. On the trailer if I find a self tapper I will remove it to replace it with bolt, nut and star washer.

The final spec for the bearings are .002 - .004 of clearance. You are probably within that spec if you can turn them by using your hand. If it really concerns you add a thin shim, this is a low speed application and a tiny bit of extra clearance won't hurt a thing.

I can tell you that when I bought my trailer a couple of years ago I had much the same issue. The brakes worked fine when I brought it home and for several trips after that then suddenly I not so good brakes. Turned out to be the cheap a$$ vampire splices they used to make the wire connections...

A diesel doesn't care about starting and stopping anymore than a gas engine does, the reason to idle your diesel is if you have a turbo. Idling lets the oil cool down the turbo bearings before shutting down to help prevent the oil from coking and plugging up oil ports.

MMO mix ratio is 4oz to 10 gallons of gas, I add 2oz to each of my 5 gallon cans I use for transport before I fill them. I put the MMO into an old Stabil bottle to make it easier to measure. At home I fill my smaller 1 gal. cans from the 5 gal. cans so every engine gets a dose of MMO including...

My thoughts exactly plus the constant vibration cannot be good for scopes if you use one. I carry a beat up but VERY functional revolver, mostly for any mister no shoulders I may encounter. If something happens to it, no terrible loss. Like a few weeks ago when the strap on the holster came...

I had a Sidewinder for a couple of years and it was a great cutter but it was just to heavy for safe use on the hills I mow. Got my money plus out of it when sold. A heavy, tuff cutter for sure, just had to make sure to check the tire pressure every now and again.

Just because it is a John Deere does not mean it must use John Deere parts. The parts you have talked about so far are universally replaceable. U-joints that will fit can be found many places, hydraulic hoses made up while you wait in many places also. I get many wear items from NAPA since they...

I do not agree with the gas hog statement, our 5.7 V8 Tundra pulled a travel trailer all over the west and Rockies averaging 14+ mpg the whole time. It averages 18+ around home in highway and city driving and just under 23 on long highway trips hauling only me and the boss. Granted I do drive...

The people at our TSC are friendly to toward the dogs. No treats given, thank goodness, but they talk to the animals and make over them a bit every time I have seen or taken a pooch into the store. Gotta assume, like so many other businesses, every store is different.

Thanks for the link, I'll check it out

It's purpose (in my opinion it's a safety) to prevent the throttle from moving to the wide open position should the friction disc fail or loosen. If you look at how it connects to the linkage you will notice it is pulling the linkage toward idle

I do not normally go for snake oil products and considered MMO as one BUT it is definitely not snake oil. I now add it to every storage can of gas I have. I use Eagle Safety cans for my gas storage, they seal tight and have no worries about leakage during transport that happened occasionally...

My neighbor has an old Kawasaki Mule 1000, 1980's vintage. It died a few days ago having no spark, after testing the Ignition Controller and crankshaft sensor as near as I can tell it appears the sensor is bad even though the IC does not test with the proper readings either. Problem is I can...

This reminds me of when I was on a couple of RV forums, I got fed up with people saying you needed a 3/4 ton to pull a popup sized camper and a ton truck for anything slightly bigger. And even a ton was not good enough (according to some) for pulling a 5th wheel. To many on-line "experts" that...

Matter of opinion, theirs or ours...

Mine is OEM and not to hard to get into place as long as you only lightly snug the bolts and of course leave out the correct one that anchors the tube... which I didn't

That looks just like mine.

Your 1990 should not be that much different than my 1992, I just replaced the manifold gasket. It has the one piece dipstick tube and I would suggest going to the one piece. They are easy to install from the top after the manifold is in place and mostly bolted up. The one piece is held in place...

The old IRON is the best, granted the bells and whistles of the newer machines are nice, however the old machines will still be on the job (even with minimal tlc) long after the newer plastic ones have failed and can no longer get parts for them. I see old tractors that have been working...

To the OP, will a sub compact load and move #4's? Yes it will, my 1025R has moved everything from fine pea gravel ( #9's ) to rip rap, moved rocks that were as big as the bucket and dug holes the tractor could have been buried in all without a toothbar. The only damage to the bucket was paint...

The transmission and diff both get a lot of splash lubrication coating the housing, the hydraulic pump area does not have the splash going on so the condensation is more likely to cause rust to form on the uncoated/less coated parts located in there.

I read the block to be February 22, 1951

IMHO the synthetics causing oil leaks is an old wives tale, I have changed everything I own over to using the newer better lubricants an have not had an engine leak or use more oil than it did before on dino based lubricants. That said most folks, it seems, use Rotalla in the diesels. For the...

You guys are going to keep on about the 8N's until I decide to go and get another... Then I will have to build another barn to store it in :D

Saving old tractors is a GOOD thing, true it is not the traditional color but it's your tractor paint it whatever color makes ya happy.

I really don't believe it is a timing issue, once these old engines are set they will not (as a rule) change unless someone changes them. I am going stand by what I said earlier, the problem is the tractor needs a tune up.

IF it has not been altered over the years then it will have a resistor wire.

Pulling the head is no big deal once the hood is off. It is a pain to pull the hood and gas tank since they must come off together and need to come off to be able have a good view of the cylinders. A compression test an is easy diagnostic test to do and will give a very good indication of the...

Do NOT tear the engine apart until you have spent time diagnosing the problem.

Yeah, what he said, EVERYDAY it is something that makes want to pull my hair out. Fortunately it is to short and few to get a hold on. :giggle:

Does not have to freeze for the expansion plug to fail, chances are it has never been replaced over the years of its life and rust just finally got the best of it.

Yes this. As long as the rims you have are in reasonable shape, no rusted though places, a liner and tube will be a cheaper long term fix. Replace the rims or put in tubes, either will work, do which one makes you comfortable.

No they just claim they do sell more. I for one will never, NEVER own a Ford again, in the past I have had 4 Ford's over the years and each and everyone, without exception, was a black hole. Causing great damage to the bank account before I could get rid of them. Each time I bought one it was...

The Ford 1000 should use a 10x24, 4 loop rim on the rear like this one on eBay...

A compression test would be the place to start, sounds to me like it just needs some TLC such as a good tune up since it has a dead miss. Your engine does have blow-by but I have seen worse on working tractors.

As a temporary fix when you first start out with the tractor you can slip the clutch to clean up any rust that may be there but ultimately a split and replace is the best thing to do.

That size rim should be available many places, including tractor parts places or tire places that deal in tractor tires. They are even available on eBay.

I will tell you right now there is NO comparison between a high end ZT with suspension seat and a heavier tractor, the tractors will win everytime. I bought a high end ExMark 2 years ago with the best suspension available at the time because of my back and neck surgeries and while it does ride...

Yeah, at least the now available replacements are cast

Been awhile since I was into the engine of an "N" tractor but I am mostly sure you will need to remove the front bolster to get enough room to remove the crankshaft pulley. You will need to drop the oil pan to replace the seal, if it is not leaking I would not bother changing it. I would use...

I have had several neck and back surgeries so turning around to look behind ain't gonna happen, I also have to wear a neck brace when mowing with either the ZT or tractor. I mow often with one or the other of my tractors and know where the cutter follows in relation to the tractor tires. Once...

Actually a study was done (by Jeff Mohr) that showed the hitch transfers more of the energy to the vehicle because it is mounted to the frame where as the bumper has a degree of crumple to absorb some of the impact. I agree with his study, the hitch transfers more of the energy to the frame...

WOW! those look more like paintings than photos, great shots.

Just for your info the electronic service/shop manual I have is over 420 pages.

I have done a lot of crazy things in my time but hooking a welder to a battery IS NOT going to be one of them even if it does appear to help. Most I have ever done for a dying battery is give each cell two aspirin (literally), a slow charge and check it in the morning. I wish he had tested that...

Try this link: PDF Manual from Classic Manuals LLC

I have found that most of the time the rod has rusted in the fork, on occasion I have found bad gears but 9 out of 10 it has been the rusted shaft.

It sounds like it is a fine/finish cut from the number of knives per row. I would remove all the blades then run it to be sure the rotor is in balance and not bent. Then if that checks out add one knife per row back until you have it repopulated. A fine/finish cut should have a total of 81...

The tractor will ride much better than the ZT, any ZT, I don't care what type of suspension seat it has, simply because of the size of the tires. I stupidly sold my 3 point finish mower because I thought getting my 6 acres cut using the ZT would be faster and it can be if the ground was...

A hydraulic top link also makes hooking up implements MUCH easier, don't know why I went so long without one.

8 volt batteries are just a band aid, fix it or convert as Ed stated.

Check Dennis Carpenters site he is known for having OEM and OEM reproduction parts. https://www.dennis-carpenter.com

See if this helps

I use a Mr Funnel everytime I fill up expressly for preventing any contaminates that may have gotten into the storage containers from getting into the tractors.

Corn head, Spindle, 00 grease is known by several names and is fast becoming the lubricant of choice for gear boxes (especially old ones) since it will flow and keep everything lubricated. But most importantly will not leak as readily as regular gear oil. I use it in all my gear boxes old and new.

Your connections are correct, I looked at mine tonight and grabbed some pics for you.

I have a Bedrug in my Tundra under a tonneau cover and just love it. I am thinking about getting the deck on my flat bed sprayed with bed liner, the surface rust drives me crazy where the paint has worn off from tool boxes and fuel cans.

Your problem is the spark, it should be BLUE and snappy. Orange or yellow is weak spark and it will not get the job done. I know you said you replaced the coil but as I said many new parts are bad out of the box. I think it is going to be either a bad/weak coil or bad condenser. It ain't yer fuel.

Did you look at the spark to see what color it was?

Something does not seem right to me, I'll look at mine tomorrow

It goes on one of the bolts/nuts that hold the axle trumpet to the center housing

Need to do some diagnosing of the problem, when it loses power check the color of the spark, if it is yellow the problem is ignition related. If pulling the choke out a little improves it then you have fuel issues. Which I am will to bet is the problem is ignition. If so hot wire the tractor...

Actually (for Ford ag tractors) the blue color was introduced in 1963 when they changed the number designation to the thousand series (2000 & 4000), from 1948 up until that time the colors had been the red, grey most people are accustom to seeing and prior to that the tractors were all...

An old Ford doing what it was made to do, doesn't get any better than that.

NO TILLER, the 640 is geared to fast to run a tiller properly. IF and I do mean IF you had an SOS transmission with independent PTO you could use a tiller but a geared transmission is just geared way to fast for use with a tiller. Get a plow and disk and you will be good to go with the 640, it's...

I would venture to say more parts availability than even some of the name brand tractors of the last 10 years. The N series tractor seems to be one of the most popular and other than large castings everything is readily available for them. Enough so that (if you could bear the cost) could build...

Your hydraulic pump is belt driven? The loader pumps are usually driven off the crankshaft with a coupler.

The 8N Fords are one of my favorites.

I have read about them being used like that but I have no idea as to the life of the belt when used that way. It does seem that as long as it fits and sits down in the pulley correctly it should work. After all there is not much load pulling the water pump and generator.

My FIL built one of those many years ago, it did work but man was it slow to build pressure. A larger motor would have helped but he used an old washer motor. He had the coolest old tank, about a 25 gallon with bands and rivets around it. He would air it up to over 100 lbs of pressure often but...

BTDT, but I was lucky enough to catch it before I bent the shaft, just tore up the shield.

An 8N will handle a 6' finish mower just fine, I cut 6 acres for several years with that setup until I traded for a larger tractor. Get a blade wide enough to cover your tracks and a dirt/pond scoop is a poor mans loader. A lot of dirt can be moved with one once you get it adjusted.

Before you go doing anything check the quality of the spark, if it is yellow then there's yer problem. Do this before you start messing around with the fuel system. More good fuel systems have been screwed up because of bad spark.

If it is cast then you had better search to find someone who KNOWS how to weld cast or else it will be brittle and break in no time.

Taking a break on the back porch swing after a hard day supervising yard work and patrolling the perimeter... What is that strange noise... Nothing to be concerned about, now where was I? Oh yeah...

Ed covered it, as for parts you can get everything to completely rebuild the 9/8 N tractors. Many good sources are out there and if cost does not scare you the Dennis Carpenter has many of the original dies and castings for the old tractors to make the parts.

Usually there is a pipe plug or bolt that is about half way up on the side of the gear box to remove for checking the oil level. I borrowed my neighbors Country Line digger back in November to set a couple of posts and it had a plug on the side so I assume yours will too.

Your dipstick is on the opposite side of your tractor from the image above. If you drain the system it should hold 2 gallons to be full.

My 850 (same engine as the NAA) has lived on synthetic oil from the first day I got it, no problems.

Good tractor ****, always like seeing the old one dressed for work. Looks like you have a nice one.

Those would be a fun novelty to have on an old Ford but as for price I have no clue where to begin.

Thanks for the feed back.

I am a member of that group, glad I am not the only one who thought that when reading it.

I recommend the Wicked Toothbar, quality and service is top notch. The site explains how to measure your bucket which you provide when ordering so no probleem with it fitting correctly.

I am not sure what you mean by CRP? As for a plow prices around here for two bottom plows average around $450. If you just need to turn the ground to level it up then a 12" will be plenty big enough and a little easier to pull if you can find one, 14" is the more popular size here. The most...

I agree not enough offset to the forks of the tail wheel, I would cut and reweld the forks. In fact looking at the pics it may have already be rewelded for some reason. If the pin is vertical or near vertical it will not caster and follow the cutter properly.

I still think he was referring to a mold board plow, his location in WNY i don't think will have many if any rollover plows. If I am wrong then I am wrong. My understanding is rollover plows are more of western implement due to size and weight. But if you will notice there has been no reply...

I would guess he is referring to a standard mold board plow since he is specifying a size but could also asking about a disc plow

Whatever the sidewall states as max PSI is what you should use since it has a loader. No matter what since it is a NAA with a loader steering by armstrong is going to be fully present and felt.

Link did not work for me, I try to teach anyone working on a point ignition system to READ the wear on the points. If you know what you are looking at it is easy to know if you have a good condenser or not. Besides after 60+ years of being shocked by plug wires whats one more :D

If it were mine I would out Autolite 437's (the now generally accepted plug of choice to use in the old Fords), it is a slightly hotter plug than OEM Champion C10. Generally if your tractor is only used for short jobs then a hotter plug would make since to burn off deposits, if you work your...

You said you had orange spark, spark IS your problem. Don't go looking for something wrong that is not. Way to many good fuel systems have been screwed up because of bad spark.

I feel your pain, it seems you have tried most everything one would normally do. I had a nearly similar deal happen on my old 850, a tractor that has never failed me, it got hard to start and with some spluttering till it would barely pull itself. Turns out my problem was poor quality points...

No the oil line can be installed, my 850 uses the same piston pump that is used to replace the OEM vane pump. It is tight but it can be installed.

When I had to replace the line on my 850 (same basic block) I tried using the flexible nylon line. DON'T, it broke twice, then tried copper that also broke, finally got some stainless steel tubing and it has held up so far. All those that broke were fastened in multiple places to prevent...

The port for the oil pressure gauge is located near the front of the hydraulic pump and slightly behind it.

Not knocking pure breeds but the best dogs, IMHO, are the Heinz 57's, seems like you get the best of all dogs that way.

Yeah and it is from Harbor Freight so parts and batteries may not be around a year or two from now, Milwaukee is long term.

I like the diesels for the torque and power but for long term I'll take the gas, cheaper to repair when needed.

I have both air impacts and Milwaukee cordless impacts... Milwaukee's gets the most use hands down simply because they will do the job and much quicker to use, plus I don't have to drag around an air hoses.

As long as what you are climbing will support the weight, it is perfectly safe. Spent years in a gravel yard, of course gravel is different. It was a daily part of the job, in between loading trucks, dressing up/compacting the stockpiles.

Cheaper and more effective to use a battery maintainer if power is available, if not then use a solar battery maintainer. Besides using a small gas engine means keeping up with the fuel and oil which to me is no different than manually checking the battery.

You do know an "Expert" is a drip under pressure...:LOL:

It would make the tractor capable of running a tiller since the Everett does not slow the PTO, admittedly it would be SLOW moving. There would be the cool fact of having one but beyond that or running a trencher I don't know.

I believe Everett was made to fit tractors from 48 to 64. I have heard of them being in the NAA & Jub's but I have never seen one in person.

The oil hole is toward the camshaft. Be sure the pistons are installed correctly on the rods.

I would like someone to explain to me WHY moles, at least on my place, dig mostly under the fences. The fence around the house and when the horse pasture was fenced the vast majority of mole runs where/are under the fence rows.

Ignition coil or possibly switch, I still run and prefer points on the old engines.

Yeah, that comment about farm kids was just a stupid joke. Everyone pulling a trailer has had to LEARN at some point in life. Those on a farm just have more opportunity to learn and refine.

Yes it can be replaced, done it several times. You will have to get a new cap and take it and the block to a machine shop so it can be line bored to do it properly.

I was in a discussion about this very thing sometime back. There as a time I said I would never have a crew cab truck for the reasons that have been listed but NOW I have an extended cab GMC flatbed dually and crew cab Tundra and length not withstanding I would want nothing else. We first...

From past experience with tilt at axle trailers, I will never have or use one again. I and my SIL both had one and they were VERY dangerous, tail wagging the dog. The only way you could haul anything was to be SURE very little weight if any was behind the axle and that sure cut down on what...

I have pulled a bunch of pintle hook equipment trailers and they all had some slop. I agree they are about indestructible.

When I was a kid dad worked for a construction firm building the near by parkway, they used Scouts. He would sometimes bring on home on weekends, it was AMAZING the place that thing would go, at least to a kid. But a power house it was not. Would like to get my hands on one of the old Scouts but...

We had a 72' Cheyenne, 307ci with Turbo 350 auto trans. Beautiful truck, nice ride, fair to decent mileage for that era truck but it would get hung up ON level ground (grass) and if a bit of dew was on the grass, forget about it. Pulled it out of the front yard more than once with an old...

I have to agree they will show up and be most useful in the stop and go delivery situation for the foreseeable future. Long haul OTR, IMHO, is going to require the development of better battery technology. But they could be closer to it than I think or know.

That reminds me, MANY years ago when I drove an S10, we were several hundred miles from home, the truck NEVER failed to start. This time however the battery suddenly or not so suddenly did one of those, run the lights but not the starter tricks. Gave the truck a little push by hand, jumped in...

Farm kids didn't learn how to back up, how to back was breed in at birth

Just hope the driver does an actual walk around before taking off

Good for you wanting to LEARN before jumping in with a trailer. I would suggest getting with someone who owns a trailer similar in size to what you have in mind. Then go to a large parking lot or even large empty field and practice there where you will be under no pressure and have plenty of...

I agree we owned two, I know there are folks that prefer Fords and have good luck with them, our SIL is one (I think he fooling himself since I know what all he has had to R&R on those Fords he owned). For us however literally EVERY Ford vehicle we have ever owned (5 total) has been a PoS and a...