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Found a manual online and it shows the glowplug timer, glow plug relay and a fusible link. I would guess the timer or relay is suspect. Can you hear a relay clicking when the light flashes?

As long as you have the injector lines loose, the injectors will not get fuel and the tractor won’t start. How long has tractor sat? Did you flush with new fuel? You may have take apart and clean gummed up plungers and ports or take to injection shop.

Yes, remove the plunger, screw the solenoid back in and try bleeding.

You can remove the plunger, then try to bleed the injectors and if they bleed.

You checked the solenoid for operation, how? By energizing and listening to it click? Did you take it out and check the plunger? If you remove the plunger, then try to bleed the injectors and they bleed, then the shutoff is faulty.

Um, also stump jumper

If I understand what you are saying, the engine binds when you try to crank and you can't turn the engine by hand forward or backward? Almost sounds like a hydraulic lock, meaning, there is excess fuel or oil or coolant on the piston preventing the piston from reaching the top of the stroke...

I don't see it on their site, but you might email or call: https://www.dnequipment.com/store/pc/viewBrands.asp?idbrand=1330&page=1&prodsort=0&viewall=yes They showed one awhile back, PN: 210017 OR These guys after Nov 3 AG.Gears | eBay Stores

Looks Looks like the races and cones come as a set and the seals are listed. You need to determine if you have 60” or 72” axle.

I would think it is probably in the state still, perhaps within a 100 mile radius of your grandpa's farm

Yes you are going to have to drop the fuel tank. If you need to get your hand in there further than just dropping the tank, you can remove the bolts for the front cab/floor mounts and loosen the back, tilt up the cab/floor from the front of the transmission a few inches being careful that you...

Fuel lines Login

I think that tach works off of the alternator. I would check the connections on the alternator and the back of the tach for corrosion. The sensor wire on the alternator is usually pretty small. It also could be the wire is suffering from mouse damage and just barely making connection.

Hey Bondo, that "pump" is the 2 spool remote valve. Probably the shaft is no longer turning enough to activate the valve spool(s) Attached is the parts page for the levers and valve: Login Valve only: Login Hope this helps

For something like a chute deflector, I see no reason it wouldn't.

So, I contacted Woods Equipment and they said to contact Woods Construction, which is basically Wain Roy. Gannon is still serviced, but online info is not represented, except for current scrapers (HD242 4X2 2WD scraper?? for 40-80HP tractors. Looks like the old 4X4 scraper for 4WD). They did...

Putting on tires that fit the existing rims isn't always that easy. 4WD tire ratios need to be considered so the diameter of tires old to new should be similar. Just because the tire fits the rim, doesn't mean the tire is the same diameter.

Not to sound snarky because I did the same thing. Demo Powersports is a demo website for powersport dealers. It is not real, but the parts books are real

Two threads on the same subject. Injection pump cover had been removed and shutoff plate not engaged in shaft button

That is the low point on the rear end/transmission. Strange nothing came out, but the fill and dipstick for the rear end/hydraulics/transmission is in the transmission cover. DO NOT use gear oil. Hytrans, UDT, Trans/Hydraulic oil is what it uses.

I didn't know it either and not sure why, but if you look at Woods site, the only thing left is a downloadable manual for hydraulic scrapers. No Gannon parts come up. There has been a lot of realignment in the Woods company if you poke around on their site. The Demo PowerSports has all the...

Woods did aquire Gannon, but has since dropped the line. There is a dealer in California that may have the springs, but not sure what happened to the Gannon line. Alternately, both Gearmore in California has copied a lot of the Gannon scrapers and may have springs...

SBA340490151 seal is replaced by pump seal kit SBA340490151 which includes this seal. However, it runs about $190. I don’t have the dimensions of the seal, but take the old one out, get the dimensions and have a bearing shop or online source match. Again, a Speedi-sleeve will probably be needed...

Hey Kody, you broke which banjo bolt? It sounds like the fuel shutoff is not moving in the top cover of the injection pump. Did you take the pump cover off?

The transfer of engine oil is through the hydraulic pump seal mounted on the engine. New seals and Speedi-sleeve will fix it. The online book doesn't show it, but I may have the seal size I can look up and share. If not, remove the seals as carefully as you can (take the pump face off of the...

For sure LD1, there is a big, big difference between the 4500 and the older 5500, 6500, 7500. The latter have a Clark transmission, which was continued on with the 750, 755... TLBs. The 4500 has a Ford transmission with a Borg Warner shuttle assembly in the front end of it. Much simpler and...

You drained the loader/backhoe sump of 35 gallons. Milky/caramel colored I understand. Did you find the same oil consistency in the transmission? It is a separate system from the loader/backhoe system.

A local New Holland dealer can get the gaskets and switch or order online Ignition switch item #6...

Oh, well a picture makes the difference. This should be the right one. At $302. vs almost $950. for Bushhog sourced one. Take some measurements to make sure. Center yoke - Parts Series 6 parts - SIZE 6 Series Ag PTO Parts

And, can we assume that it is the "front harness", that goes to the instrument panel?

According to parts book, it is under the dash cowling. #3

The cross kits are PN: 64663 anywhere from $46 to $125 depending on where you buy. Messicks has the pricier Bushhog cross, Amazon the cheaper. Most good bearing shops should be able to match. Could also measure cap diameter and cross length to look up replacement. Measurements are metric...

The loader is rated at 1000#, but the hydraulic valve relief is set at a certain pressure so as not to overload the axle rating. The axle rating is what you are looking out for and in the case of the 1910, the loader should be set to lift no more than 900#

Something to think about for sure

Galaxy makes really good tires. I don't know about the EZ Rider tires specifically, though. R4 tires are the same tread design, just shallower and with a wider bar. Other things made for construction use differentiates them from R1s.

Is the draft lever, short handle under the seat, RH side, flipped up/down? This changes the quadrant from draft to position control or vs versa. Flip it in the opposite direction as it sounds like the hitch is in draft mode.

Not likely. If the drive shaft wiped out the bottom of the radiator, I suspect the driveshaft broke the pump shaft. If you weren't using the hydraulics excessively and it sounds like you weren't, then the oil is going to circulate in the system until you move a lever and bottom out a cylinder...

One other thing I was thinking about was that this is an open center system, so if the pump deadheaded somehow by activating a circuit and extending the cylinder to its max, that is when the relief would kick in, so I don't think the relief would be the culprit anyway.

Also, the hydraulic pump is a gear type, which hopefully you have. If it is the vane pump, there is a lot of plumbing that won't fit the gear pump. The bypass Roustabout is referring to is in the loader valve, section 05K02, item 1A

Welcome to TBN. If the u-joint failed, it is likely the driveshaft got off center and this caused the shaft on the pump to snap. The 4500 is part of the Ford 4000 - 3 cylinder parts book: New Holland 4000 - SERIES - 3 CYL TRACTOR(01/65 - 12/74) Parts Pump diagram - 10B03 section Hydraulic...

Interesting info. The 770A, fixed mount and 770B, removeable loader, were identical and I believe the 800# lift capacity is accurate for both. So any loader that has mounts for a 1910 and lift capacity of 800# or less should work fine. Its finding the mount that may be tricky.

The interesting thing is that is opposite what I remember, but, it works. Single acting means that the cylinder is powered by hydraulic oil from one side. It would retract by gravity or a spring. Double acting is what you have, a cylinder powered by hydraulic oil from both sides.

Did you ever get this working?

Yes, that one. If it is screwed in all the way (which I can't tell from the picture) it is a double acting valve. If that screw is screwed out, it is a single acting valve.

Right now, the valve is in single acting mode. There is a screw in the valve, I believe it is the slotted hex screw on the front, the if you unscrew or screw it you will get a double acting mode. I will try to look tomorrow to see what you need to do.

Take the pump off and send to injection shop OR take it apart and thoroughly clean parts in Berryman's or equivalent to get rid of the goo. If it is cleaned part way, it will continue to stick the plungers and clog smaller orifices. Also, it will pass onto injectors and cause clogging there.

I would suggest checking the glow plugs to make sure they are good and heating. How does it do once it warms up, does it still take 8-14 tries to start?

My mistake, TD75DA..Delphi

TN75DA uses a Bosch pump

I guess you are showing the lockout for generator/line feed on your panel. That system is very simple and has been marketed for awhile. Simple enough to DIY, providing you know what you are doing electrically!

Still has to be timed at a shop, yes?

Look at the engine block on the left side. The engine number will tell you what model it is. Look at this website: Ferguson Tractor Identification

That would be because NH put it as part of the engine block components. See #47, lower left.

You may want to see if it is a bad fuel lift assist pump. I am not too familiar with that pump, but it is cheaper to look there and perhaps bypass with an electric pump to eliminate if you can't see anything obvious with the pump itself.

Did he take out the lock bolt before he had the engine timing set? thepumpguysc

It is much newer than 1978. It is most likely a 6610S, built in Mexico around 2000 as it has an additional water separator at the bottom of the fuel system plumbing. It has an electric lift pump on top of the fuel filter. Much more going on than the old 6610 with the Lucas or Simms injection...

The 1910 did not use a secondary filter, just the single.

You just have to inspect everything very closely. You could take the hose off, and should anyway, fill it with water and see if there are any leaks in the hose. If there are not, at least you will wash the dust out of it. My suspicion is that there is a hole in it or there is a loose clamp...

No it is not normal. Either your air filter is not seating in the housing or you may have pinhole leak in the hose. That design is pretty poor as you have to pull the air cleaner hose out of the way to get the radiator cleanout screen out. Easy to get the corner of that screen to put a hole...

Yes, how long has it been since it ran last and how old is the fuel. I just got through working on a 410 that the fuel was old and the IP got gummed up. A real mess!! Customer said it ran a couple of months ago, but since sitting in the hot, desert sun, the fuel got real bad. Replaced the...

Also, on the EB series, you should be able to manually choke it and override the throttle with a screwdriver to manipulate the throttle. I would think that since it is not an OEM carb, that taking the old carb and soak in Berrymans, clean the jets and trying that may be the better route to...

The giveaway for it being a 4500 is the "hard nose" square radiator shell. The other models had a sheet metal nose like an ag tractor. The engine can be identified by this chart I made up by matching the S/N located at the bottom, RH center of the block OR RH front bottom boss of the engine...

If you can access the bottom end while the valve bank is in place, that is a lot less work. Be careful though of parts/pieces falling out when you take the cap off.

20 series and before were metric, so no they will not. I may have a set for rear rims. I will check tomorrow.

Definitely sounds like the centering mechanism in the spool cap opposite the handle end of the valve spool. Attached is the valve bank from a 50B (I can't get Massey's online parts book to work), but the cap at the bottom of the picture holds the centering spring. The spring may have broken or...

The lever or the leg comes halfway back?

Sounds like the ignition switch is the problem.

Can assume that the battery is in good shape and there are no other loads on the battery?

I wouldn't run it either as it will develop leaks such as the filter housing. You could try removing the filter and try that. Otherwise, there is something lodged in a passage or on the relief.

It allows the pump to turn at the proper speed since the PTO turns at 540 rpm, it will increase that speed to about 1000-1100 rpm for the pump.

Did this happen after the oil got good and hot?

Any way you can apply some heat to at least break the paint bond?

Indeed, I believe you are right. Hard to tell from picture, but he did say it was a Prince. Your picture though does have the vent. Anyway, this pump can be mounted any position.

On the gearbox, not the pump. That is a vent on top of the gearbox and that is what needs to be at the top. Thanks for illustrating my point! That was the general question of mounting it as the pump is integral with the gearbox. The site glass and/or plug on the side of the gearbox can be...

It does not have to be absolutely upright. If it has a vent on top, you can let it angle 10-20 deg of center.

The steering valve sits in the nose as a complete assembly. If you are lucky....the arms just need to be greased. However, if the pivot pin, 31 or cylinder pins, 16 and 19 have wear, then you will not get the actuator, 22-25 to activate the valve that creates power assist from the cylinder...

There is a fuel shutoff solenoid on the backside of the injection pump. Either it is not working or there is a fuse for this circuit that has blown.

The valve controls only 3PT hitch drop speed or it can be closed to hold the 3PT. The valve is similar to a faucet valve in that it has a stem shaft in a gland nut sealed by orings. With the tractor off and the hitch all the way down, you can unscrew the gland nut and take the assembly out to...

BUT, make sure you have something like a loader bucket or grill guard to run it into. You have to say these things sometimes!:cautious:

Yes, it could be the relief, but a pressure test is the only way to diagnose what exactly is going on. I might think that the hydrostat motor might be bad now. Why was the pump replaced and was it the hydrostat pump or gear pump that supplies the hydrostat pump?

No reason the larger rod cylinder wouldn't fit and probably due to the problem you had is why it was upgraded to a larger rod diameter. The pins and the frame have not changed in any way. The 4 bar bucket linkage that this loader has is supposed to prevent the rod from bending easily compared...

Is your trailer level when hooked up to the truck? I have had the front tires skid when the front is pitched up and no load. Hard for the tire to stop smoothly when there is little drag on it.

A picture would help. Do the lines, suction and pressure going across the bell housing, have the hold down clip in place? #77

Not the easiest thing to find the parts online. Try this link: SSO , but I haven't always gotten that to work. If it works for you, it will lead you to the model search. You can also try: Welcome to AGCO Parts Books. Click on the lower part of the banner that says, "Visit...

Thanks pump guy for the clarification of spill timing and correcting me. This needed your expertise!

#1 PTO shafts are all different lengths. What you have to watch for is with the PTO shaft level with the ground, that it's not too long when the tiller is hooked to the tractor. If so, you could put your Pat's Hitch back on to add length. If it were too long, the shaft could push the PTO...

An F1900? Why isn't it listed in the parts list? Anyway, it sounds like leakage in your hydrostat transmission. It could be something as simple as a stuck relief valve (can only hope), but if it has gradually been getting worse, you are looking at where in the hydrostat pump and motor...

I can't zoom in on your idler gear picture, but there looks to be a mark at about 11:00. The spill timing is when the plunger in #1 is at the highest point in the pump chamber, so that would be the 21 deg

I have a 2008 F250 V10 with 315,000 on it. Very quiet, smooth engine. Pulling a trailer, I don't have to rev up to more than 4500 rpm and do not like to go over 4000 as the power curve is maximum at about 3800-4000 rpm. Usual maintenance, synthetic oil and no components replaced except for...

It is true that the tach and PTO work off of the alternator, but as K5lwq said, check the cheaper, simpler components first. Could also be a relay problem that is downstream from PTO light. Light may work off of switch only, but not off of the downstream circuit of the solenoid.

The cooler swings forward after loosening the hydraulic fitting locknuts. The tank is supported by 2 brackets on either side mounted to the front cowl by carraige bolts. Remove the oil and lines, then remove the mounts. I can get you a copy of the wiring diagram, but may not be anything more...

550s are old, but still get the work done. I have one and it does more than I can ask it to do. It has paid for itself many times over!

I still stand by what I said. If the driveline fits without the QH and the QH adds distance between the tractor and the implement, then there is no reason to cut the driveline. The hitch may add up to 3" distance between the tractor and the implement. As long as there is at least 2" of shaft...

Well, if he has implements now and the hitch adds to the distance from the hitch to the implement, it is possible to make this statement. Getting a new implement with a PTO shaft, now that's where I have to agree with you.

The 5000 and 7000s had Simms cabs for the most part, but as suggested, a 5600, 6600 or 76/7700 may be fit onto it without much modification

Does the tractor have an engine mounted pump, LH side, back of engine just in front of the bell housing. If not, it doesn't have a lot of hydraulic flow. Tractor Supply and others have HV5902 adapter plate Same discussion here: Ford 3930 - Researching for Information - Auxiliary...

You don't need to cut the driveline. You should have enough driveline to take up the extra 3" or so the hitch will add to the distance between the tractor and mower. The driveshaft should be at least 2" in the tube when the hitch is lifted to full height.

The Asian tractors have done this for years and a sediment bowl design allows for seeing sediment and water earlier and easier. Also cheaper filter to manufacture.

Perhaps this one is better than the Country Vet style: https://www.smartjan.com/components/com_virtuemart/Technical_Sheets/BGD-451-BIOD-Metered-Concentrated-Room-Deodorant-7OZ-Lemon-Technical-Sheet.pdf

You have a CAV pump I believe and if you didn't assemble correctly, it may not be actually turning on the fuel shutoff under the cover

There is a seal kit LVA11358, is about $135., but if it is leaking internally, I don't think the kit includes the piston seal and wear rings. The piston, LVU12341, is approximately $205.

New Hollands' website: https://www.dmcretail.com/productSearch.aspx if you want it from the source.

Sounds like the dipper (arm) cylinder is leaking internally. Can you lift the dipper in the air and if so, will it hold there? This is the only other test besides trying to get it to dig that would confirm that the cylinder itself is the problem.

The lift arms only lift halfway, but how about the rockshaft arms? Are they lifting up all the way? If so, the vertical solid shaft on the left that attaches to the lift arm should have 3 holes to make adjustments, while the crank on the right will make up the adjustment on the right. But, if...

Danica, the spring goes at the bottom of the filter to apply tension from the bowl so that it stays snug. You should be able to shut the fuel valve off, unscrew the filter ring, install the spring under in the fuel bowl so that it goes up against the filter. Shouldn't be too messy

Transmission/hydraulic fluid or tractor fluid. New Holland, John Deere, Kubota, Cat or just a very good grade transmission/hydraulic fluid will work. The label will usually say compatible with Ford New Holland 134 fluid

It is actually a 19-501 actual model and a 740 generic model loader. On Messicks, it is here as looked up under the 19-501 model: New Holland 19-501 - LIFT ARM ASSEMBLY, 740 SERIES(01/68 - 12/78) Parts

I agree with LouNY, but rather the 2nd shift fork is twisted to the right somehow. Perhaps the fork is broken, but the machined notches should bypass each other, not lock in like they are in the picture.

Got it. It is not an assist cylinder combo, but rather a gearbox assist. Here are the pertinent pieces out of the Ford SM

This is a drag link power assist from the Ford service manual, but it also shows a power assist cylinder in the nose for HD tractors. My impression was that yours is on the left side. 500 psi definitely won't get it. Hard to assist otherwise without the detail.

Luke, I am in Mountain Center, above Lake Hemet. DM me. Ted

Don't know if this helps as it isn't much clearer, but here you go

Fill and dipstick on the transmission takes care of transmission, rear axle and hydraulics

Most likely the piston seal or the lift cylinder has scoring in it causing oil to leak by so the hitch is trying to maintain some sort of position.

Perhaps a little more description. You don't see any linkage slop and/or you don't have or have very little any steering wheel play?

Draft control is meant to automatically raise and lower the hitch according to the load on the hitch. You can raise the sector lever until you have the implement where you want it, then move the sector lever down to above the 3/4 point to get it to stop raising. Look at this YouTube video:

First off, 9Ns do not have position control, but rather draft control on the 3pt, so it is acting like it should. The jerking up and down by an inch indicates that the 3pt piston is leaking by.

Like Rustyiron said, check with the dealer. Chances are, they can find it or the kit may have some parts that will seal it.

Like LouNY, there is a snap ring on the shaft at the opposite end. Should be #11 in illustration

Gulf South maybe?

You may look at this too: HD Stump-jumper Bar with a 15 spline hub fits Howse, Bush Hog, Kodiak and More | eBay

Thanks for adding your description. I could not tell from the picture what type of bolt/screw was there or if it was still there. Thanks for detailing

https://www.agwheelexpress.com/store/c178/implement-wheels/

Now that I see it on a monitor, not my phone screen, look for holes in the hub that are threaded at the top of the hole. It looks like the holes at 10 and 4 might be the ones, but just need to be cleaned.

Blade for KingKutter: 24

Perhaps a Titan/Branson mower, discontinued. Only difference was the stump jumper bellypan on these mowers. chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://www.ironcraftco.com/_files/ugd/352071_56261e1d570545919ce916640d71e143.pdf What is the width of the mower? What is the width...

The cultivator bar is where it should be as it is the easiest to see and make quick adjustments. Many belly bars on tractors through the years

Can you find a number on the blades anywhere? Also, there could be a number on the cutter bar.

You very well could and accomplish the same goal.

Is this the seal kit you are looking for?: https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/search/type/parts/equipment/80244/term/4438359 Or ask your Deere dealer if it is compatible with your valve.

It could "muck up" a gear, but most likely would get in a bearing and muck it up.

The fuel flow is shut off by the solenoid when there is NO power. You can kill the engine various ways as CobyRupert suggested, but the plunger on the solenoid is most likely stuck in the solenoid. If it has a rubber end to it, then the end is most likely shot or crooked and won't seat to shut...

The circuit board is the switch or switch replacement. Here is the spring, switch and washer part number and price from Messicks. Showing in stock or available. 24 SPRING- SPRING SBA398210460 $4.13 44 SWITCH- replaces #SBA386750060 SWITCH SBA386750061 SBA386750060 $93.73 45A WASHER-...

Hitachi builds the Deere excavators and usually the only difference is the engine. In this case, the Deere version uses the Izusu engine. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/search/type/model/term/EX35U

MF150, 230, 235, 245 used Z145 TO35, MF35 F40, MF50, and MH50 used Z134

As quoted on another site by KFD68: Ford England manufactured the Dexta, Super Dexta & Majors & Super Majors in EMPIRE BLUE with ORANGE wheels from 1952-1963

The thing that is troubling in your description is that you say it has 3" toe out. If the kit was installed wrong or is the wrong kit then that is your problem, but you should adjust your toe-in so that it is about 1/2' toe-in. As John0829 says, the timing is similar to an 8N, but I would...

A picture is worth a thousand words! Also, is the serial number on the LH ledge behind the engine, the engine block, where is this number?

Flow valve shouldn't affect the up movement. If the hydraulic pump is engine mounted, it probably is loosing suction at the intake tube/oring on the pump. Sometimes it requires loosening the top clamp on the bell housing (if it is there and it should be), make sure the oring is good/new...

C9NN3575A r/b: 87486877 runs about $2400 if available. Look for a used one at places like Alexander Tractor, Broken Tractor or Ebay. One listed for $600. + $46 shipping on Ebay. You will need the cover gasket as well if that is the only thing wrong with it.

Dave, is yours a 5100, straddle mount where you straddle the transmission or a 5200 flat deck which has a deck over the transmission? Also, is the steering reservoir part of the pump or is it above the pump under the hood?

It is separate and used on many, many models

Not so much aftermarket as they are probably packing/crating parts that got left on the mower after it was setup.

Definitely a Ford (script on casting) 4600SU most likely because of the square radiator cowling, the wet disc brakes (large 'trumpet' type axle housings) and swept back front axle.

Are you referring to #48 in diagram? https://www.messicks.com/commoncatalog?vendor=nh&modelId=137947

The 2WD and 4WD shoud not be compatible as the wheel patterns were always different. As LS said, possibly turn around? You could space them out with some thick washers as long as the pilot center is still in the wheel.

The TB series is a great tractor. This is still a basic Ford tractor from the 40 series with the powertrain being simple and heavy duty. There is very little change in the tractor or additions to it from the old Ford designs since Fiat bought out Ford and rebranded it New Holland.

Ether on any engine, used very sparingly will fire it up, if the engine is sound. Use too much and it will bend a rod - engine is then toast. Also good for cleaning parts. If it has the inline pump, the lift pump may not be getting fuel to the injector pump, but rather into the engine. Like...

To answer both questions about why it is pressurized with the 3PT and is it a standard remote. It is part of the Load Monitor draft control system. The way the system works is that you have a plow hooked semi-mounted to the 3 PT or on the drawbar and the plow has a special Load Monitor...

Probably from your seat

It could be, but this is the place to start

Sounds like the bucket spool or the detent may be the issue. That is the cap on the backside of the valve which holds the spring and detent balls. Other thing to check is the linkage itself.

You can go to New Holland Tractors or Messicks online and look up the 219 model. New Holland 219-SERIES - DISC HARROW(01/64 - 08/87) Parts is the link to the Messicks page. New Holland doesn't have many replacement parts as the disk was made for them by another company. There are aftermarket...

There is an inspection hole under the loader mount. You indicated that the PTO goes in and out when nothing is attached and that tells me that the PTO disc is fine. Does the shaft spin when in the off position and nothing attached? Question is, why when something is attached, it won't engage...

The parts manual only shows the RE526915 thermostat. Is your radiator clean from grass and weed chaff? Fan belt tight?

Most systems operate at a minimum of 2200 psi, but could be as high as 3400 psi

If it is just a drop, 2" diameter or smaller, you may wait a long time as a small amount of oil will create a mess larger than what it actually is. In that case, it could be a drip from an accumulation of blowby or just a very small leak.

Is your plow a 2 point mount or 3 point mount and is it a furrow or on land plow, meaning, does the tractor need to be in the furrow or on land?

Or, on the battery cable/post connection, you can have a perfectly good looking connection, but corrosion or loose clamp to the post or clamp will prevent a solid connection.

Maybe you could describe the noise and where in the engine it is coming from? Any signs of anything unusual?

The steering wheel cap either unscrews or prys off to reveal the steering wheel nut. Unscrew the nut until flush with the shaft, you will need to soak the wheel/shaft splines with PB Blaster or WD40. Go to Autozone or an auto parts store that loans out tools and rent a steering wheel removal...

No video attached

Not easy at all, but I have found that on the NH version, you need to first drop the fuel tank. The other thing that makes it possible is to remove the cable pin at the clutch and unscrew the nut that at the cab access. Then, remove the front cab/platform mounts and raise the platform up with a...

Definitely need to remove the bolts in the 3rd picture. You probably need to unbolt the dash cowling and get it to twist out of the way to get access to those. The mount where you removed the other bolts in the 1st picture is probably stuck to rubber isolator or rusted to bracket.

Jumper the two wires to see if it will start without that switch. If so, then the switch is bad or needs adjustment, but you say you don't remember a shim, so probably a bad switch. The "in" position of the switch means that in the tractor, it is riding on the rail, the "out" means it's in a...

Find a machine shop that specializes in cylinder rebuilds. There has to be one somewhere near you that can take stock rod and duplicate that one for less than $450.

I believe it is a pressure switch on the bottom of the master cylinder.

Also wondering if you have all of the orings in place under the valve

You have to "drop the 3 pt lift to relieve pressure on the spools". It sounds like there is a valve or something on the spool valves that is not in the correct position, such as a single to double spool valve lever or a check valve missing.

Balk pins or detent pins ride on the shift rail with the rounded end on the rail. There should also be a spring that goes in on top of it and tension on it is applied by screwing the cap back in.

You probably have a lock ring in the cylinder that needs to be removed. The gland is as far back as it will go, so now you need to pry the ring out. Once removed, the gland will come out. See #19 in picture

The fertilizer spreader takes very little torque, so you could buy a complete driveshaft, Series 1, with the 540/6 spline quick connect ends on it. If it is a square shaft, you could also just buy the tube half or the shaft half that is a longer than the original, but you need to be careful...

Reg plate? What is it you are looking for, the model/serial number plate?

NH P/N: 60518S Rivet button Hd, 1/4'' x 1-1/4

Hi, first off, the top of the column is not your problem. The column is bolted (4 bolts at the bottom of the column) to the steering motor which has a seal leaking. I have take these apart and the kit can reseal them. Sometimes water gets into this area though and pits the shaft where the seal...

Mad, I attached the various pages from the C-Series Tractor Loader book, identical in the powertrain. Most of the tools are old Ford numbers which I don't think I ever had as a dealer. The PS is easy to adapt as it uses JIC fittings. Find an fitting at a good hydraulic shop that will adapt the...

You can find the hinge, #8, C5NN16N631B at a New Holland dealer, $70. each. Or search C5NN16N631B to find many other better deals at prices of $20/pair, but read carefully as some of these do not work on original hoods.

Shot of parts book attached. It appears to be threaded to elbow. May have to loosen and lift tank to get access. I don't remember how the tank is placed though.

Skeeter, I left on vacation before I could get you service info on the steering, but attached is the blowup from the parts website. In a nutshell #9 and #10 have to be tight. #10 moves very slightly when you turn the wheel to activate the steering assist spool valve. If it and/or #9 are loose...

From the look of the blades on another website servicing the TSC145 in Europe, it appears the blades/rotor might be a Seppi, perhaps used by a British manufacturer. Seppi was sold through Gearmore here in California. Here is a page on the rotor . Also, in San Bernardino, Calif., is a blade...

Sorry I did not get back sooner, been a little busy. The Hi-Lo knob looks to be still available. Did you go to a New Holland dealer or have you been online at New Holland? The U25 code indicates that it is in low gear. I'm thinking that the lever is out of adjustment so that it appears to be...

On both transmissions, the shift cover must be removed to access the switch under it. On the synchro column shift, the range shift cover #42 and column shift shaft must be removed before the shift cover can be removed.

Yes, they do all have pilot bearings. The input shaft is machined down to the bearing dimension, then steps up to the clutch splines. Is it possible the pilot nose is ground off of the shaft? Is yours a 9x3 transmission?

Welcome to TBN, Chris. There is a ball bearing pilot bearing. I believe the disc is installed with the hub away from the flywheel. Following are parts book pictures of crank and clutch assembly.

Agree with Joe as it is a safety switch probably to shut down the engine when oil pressure is low. Most likely hooked to injection pump solenoid directly or through a shutdown system relay, like a Murphy or a momentary push button switch to override for starting. There are other switches that...

Dave, without taking apart, not sure why it pops out, but would reseal and check the detent ball, spring and groove in the spool. The book for the 3930 does not show the spring and ball for the detent under plug #2, but the same valve from an earlier 4600 shows it. I have attached pictures from...

Gary, I'm going to assume that your rebuilder wasn't using OEM or equivalent parts. The emissionized engines were still BSD (Basildon Series Design) engines but incorporated turbo with the appropriate manifold and piston changes. The serial number format changed, but did not mean the engine was...

Attached is a picture of the pump from the parts book online. It appears the center bolt is removed and can is popped off. As far as flushing, remove the steering lines from the cylinders and let the oil drain out of the steering motor while turning the steering wheel back and forth. With the...

Check the fuel shutoff solenoid on the injector pump. Stand next to pump, turn key on and off. You should hear the solenoid click. If not, check the wire going to it and the fuse that controls it.

*It looks like a Comer gearbox, but could be an Omni, not unique to Five Star. *Is there another pin higher up the bushing securing it to the shaft? ** The bushing is just that, just slid onto the output shaft and probably stuck with rust and dirt. More heat on the output shaft. Possibly drill...

Yes, it is for the 6000 Commander from the 60's. Attached is the parts picture and part of the parts list. Hopefully your bearing is alright as that is not available through New Holland.

The part number is D5TE8564B1A. $17.US and still available. Water Pump Seal assembly. Tractors: 4-cyl, 1939 to 1964.

The Napa kit will get you the basics, but you'll need the adapter in the middle pictured in the following kit. Toolsource #: 95279 Manufacturers #: 34800 Also known as: SGT-34800. Can't find similar in Napa, but both are online at Toolsource.

Ken, there is a large hex plug on top of the pump to fill it (76). Two small plugs on the side; one for checking level(44), in the middle and one at the bottom for draining. See the image.

The fuel pump the manual is referring to is the injection pump. On the injection pump below the injection lines is a bleed screw. #6 in diagram Your primer pump is what you pictured. It should have a hand lever on it, but if it doesn't, remote starter cranking method is fine for bleeding...

I just bought an M7040 and wanted to add the clevis strap to the drawbar to pull my disc with a single tongue drawbar, but Kubota doesn't show one for the M7040. Does anyone know if the M7030 drawbar has the same hole spacing to bolt the one for that tractor onto the M7040?

Here you go.

Okay, attached is the page out of the 60 Series, predecessor to the TM Series, shows how to get into the H1 menu, but not sure you can also access HH menu with shift buttons. The harness with button, FNH00874/380000488, is bridging the two center pins on either side of the plastic centering pin...

It didn't show in the online parts book, but my old 10 series parts book included the Mexican built 5900, which is basically an updated 5000 built from 1985-1993 in Mexico and brought in as a stripped down 62 Hp tractor. Look at the parts diagram for it and you will see that the relief screws...

I have seen that filter in 3 cylinders and don't remember it in 4 cylinder tractors, but it is a return filter with a back pressure relief at the bottom. Attached is the parts breakdown picture of one on a 4610.