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The throttle mechanism sprnig goes in the 2nd hole on either side

Part # VP2-211N0552-90-CS Dash -211, 13/16 in Nominal ID, 1 1/16 in Nominal OD, Duro 70 Case New Holland CNH 86528546 oring

Who makes the steering ram? Ford made the PS option as an integral power steering box. Since it sounds like it is aftermarket, disassemble and try to read the number on the seals or match up the seals. If it is an external leak, the wiper and rod seal are the only two that need replacing, but...

HST may have an air leak on the suction side As far as the steering leak, it is the top seal on the steering motor. Don't use the seals that are recommended for the tractor as they are overpriced for what they are.

This one? https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/81181/referrer/navigation/pgId/737602214

Under the cover, RH side of the pump looking forward on the tractor is a flat plate with a hook toward the front. The dowel/nub of the shutoff shaft has to fit into the slot or hook.

Also, if I remember correctly, it uses hyd/trans oil, not ATF

Welcome to TBN. Sorry to hear this, but you would have more contaminated oil in the the torque converter, transmission distributor and the cooler that you can't get out by draining the transmission. The converter may have an access cover on the converter and a drain plug on the converter to get...

If that is the type of fitting that is leaking

Figure out what kind of fittings they are before doing that. What brand/ model machine are you talking about?

I believe it located in the transmission

It also could mean that the tach itself has a deteriorating connection on the circuit board or internally

No it doesn't. On ORB, flat face and JIC fittings it isn't necessary, but I have seen people tape JIC fittings

No, there is nothing to reset

I am assuming that it is the OEM valve from Ford with power beyond and after 40 years, the seals have dried and worn, but we are both speculating so yes, we will see

I'm assuming...not good, that it has the original valve that Ford used on it, which would not have orings. It would have 3 lines connected to the tractor and look like that in one of the parts illustrations

There is a Dump Valve solenoid , #14 in the illustration, located at the LH side of the rear axle housing, behind the fuel tank, that may be sticking from dirt in the valve or in the electrical connector, BUT does not make a lot of sense why the shifter would kick it back in gear. Just...

Are you fairly mechanical? If so, not a very difficult chore. The are 2 different makes of valves that use seal on the spool at either end. Through New Holland the seals are pricey. You might be able to remove a seal and have it matched at a bearing shop or find on line aftermarket. Best thing...

Yes, May 15, 1987

Maybe here?: E5763-A0012 from KIOTI / DAEDONG TRACTOR - ENGINE BLOCK

www.tractorpartsasap.com has used engines. Can you Bondo the block and rebuild it?

At Messicks: Case IH DX35 - CASE IH COMPACT TRACTOR (CLASS 3) - PIN # HBA0005004 & ABOVE(10/00 - 01/04) Parts Diagrams Yours may be a different serial number, but this should get you started. Look at the implement lift section.

From the Green Tractor forum: 1.38 ci pump The cover on the front of the pump(retained by 8 hex bolts) will have an "Indention" in the center. 2.4 ci pump The 2.4 ci pump has 4 hex bolt retaining the cover. The cover is flat

That was clear and I agree on what you’re doing. I was wondering about putting quick couplers on the implement end of the hoses and on the implements.

Welcome to TBN. How do you get it moving again? Does it not go in low gear or high gear?

Give us more information like what brand of cylinder or implement and/or the fitting numbers printed on the hose at the cylinder end.

It was actually on Ebay: New OEM KIOTI CKA146 Beacon Light Wire / Switch Kit, for CK3510SE and CK4010SE | eBay I Googled: Kioti CX2510 HST Cab beacon lamp wire kit and that was one of the results

The first picture looks like the right rear of the cab. I found this picture of the beacon kit that attaches on that bracket and uses that plug. Can't tell where that other plug is located by your picture

Welcome to TBN. Can you take a picture or give us a little more description of which lever this is that you are talking about? Attached is the parts book blowup of the linkage

Most likely that the nut holding the gear onto the pump backed off and caused the gear to back off of the pump shaft. This is not to say that this didn't damage the keyway or shaft, but is most probable. Second possibility is that there is an air leak in the suction circuit which can be...

Actually prior to 2000 when NH Blue and Bianca White became the colors as part of the differentiation. The color is Ford Gray Gloss for the wheels. Ford New Holland part # M20J1750SE5. 1750 is the base number for the color part number

An extra layer of protection

And on the note of cavitation (acidic coolant eating holes in the cylinders), use quality water, SCA enhanced coolant or put in additives to halt any erosion. Many of the old blocks without cross hatch in external casting are actually really not susceptible to cavitation.

I had to replace a deck belt on an old Craftsman mower. The afyermarket 'close fit' belt was between the blades running even in the off position or not engaging at all. As far as JD vs aftermarket, the belt material is what determines good or mediocre. Find a Kevlar belt and you should get long...

80w90 gear lube should work, but a gearbox grease is closer to the M1C137-A.

Sounds like the pump seal is the right diagnosis.

Well, you have an air leak on the suction side of the pump most likely. I would look at the orings in the attachments of the hard pipe that feeds oil to the pump and pressurized oil to the rear case. Also, could be that the pipe bolts are a little loose, but you would most likely have high...

I just got parts for an Iseki Challenger MT265B and got great service out of Compact Tractor. https://www.compactractorparts.com https://www.stevenstractor.com/home/shop-brand/iseki.html? Don’t know about engine pan, but there are compact tractor disassembler yards like...

I went back and read your original post. What doesn’t make sense is it is intermittent, but the rental gauges show zero pressure! That doesn’t add up. I didn’t see where you did the electrical test of hot wiring the compressor clutch to see if it engaged in just the tractor off state and again...

You should be able to take the bearing to a bearing shop and match by shaft size, OD and thickness.

TW Model codes: GC61 = TW5 UC61 = TW15 HC61 = TW25 MC61 = TW35 Other 6 cylinder models, but not likely on US: FR41 = 7810 FE41 or FR51 = 7910 FS41 or FS51 = 8210

ptsg is right, I didn't see the 6 injection lines. TWs are 6 cylinders. The tag, if it exists is under the radiator cap cover. True model code to decipher is:

It is either a 6710 or 7710. Look on the RH bell housing ledge for the "true" model number. A 6710 model will start with EC4.. and a 7710 with a FC4.. number. The date code will be in a form like 2C12B meaning it was built 1982 Mar (3rd month, 3rd letter in alphabet), 12th day, B = regular shift

I was talking about the rod end ears to remove/tighten the rod nut.

The lines can be removed and the orings replaced, conceivably. The fun part may be getting the lines off through whatever they are mounted under.

I used Aftermarket Express a few months ago and got the part I needed within a couple of days, no problems

Can you take pictures of the case where the lines go in?

Is this a 3 cylinder or 4 cylinder 2000?

In a 245, being an older model and not needing the latest oil, it would be fine according to the specs on the label.

No reason you can't put a hydraulic diverter valve on both the loader bucket and the backhoe bucket circuits. If you want to save money, you could use the same diverted for both attachments by quick coupling the valve on both circuits and just switch when you are done plowing...

Welcome to TBN. It appears from the parts book that those orings can be replaced, but can you get pictures of the lines?

My 1978 550 backhoe had the breather setup and I converted to the crossover. As stated here, dirt, gunk, water and oil that leaks by the piston gets in the base of the cylinder. However, you may have a piston nut that backed off on one cylinder. You should be able to determine which one fairly...

What version 2000? Can we assume 3 cyl or is it a 4 cyl

Options to customize your loader: https://summit-hydraulics.com/product/hydraulic-third-function-valve-kit-w-joystick-handle-for-tractor-loader-13-gpm/ https://summit-hydraulics.com/product/loader-crossbeam-coupler-bracket-kit/

I agree that it is probably a bad shift lever causing the intermittent problem with the shifting. Also, Ford's 3rd valve for 4-1 was another valve next to the joystick that you had to take your hand off of the loader joystick to operate. The Summit or similar electro valve is the best...

I found this strange too. That is what I found on a BX23 that had blown the fuse in this circuit AND the fuse is not part of the fuse panel, but rather on the harness near the starter. My customer called up and said he couldn't turn the engine off. The injection pump (of I could describe where...

As nyone said, check suction line, but to see that there is no air leaking into the suction side of the pump. Spray WD40 or oil around the line joints to begin with. Next, check your hydraulic filter for debris that may have impeded the flow. You can unbolt the suction line from the filter...

Are you looking for OMs or SMs?

Did you get it charging? I recall that there is a fuse for the charging circuit located under a 2 screw plate on the dash. Sometimes the fuses get moisture and corrode

Can you take more pictures of the pump and regulator? What I can see looks like a Hypro, but not enough to go on with this. Also, is the regulator the brass one just off picture?

Are you talking about the top link bracket, #2? BTW, it is $220. from Messicks

I was thinking about this too. JWR is right. You are taking it too far. Oil does not circulate through loader quick couplers unless the joystick is activated, with or without the loader attached. There are no hoses to connect without the loader attached. I had a customer with a BX2200 with an...

It may be the linkage on the solenoid to shutoff is hanging slightly. Also, if you don't hear pop or see movement, check the fuse. Looking at the wiring diagram for this model, it looks like they relocated to the fuse area. It is rather large compared to the other fuses and it is a 50A. Visual...

The not shutting off could be a blown fuse (I believe 30A FMX?) located on the rh side of the engine side rail or simply that your battery is too weak to energize the solenoid to kill the engine.

Welcome to TBN. Any double pole/double throw 12v switch capable of the motor's amperage can be wired to do this. Example...

The rear end is the same on the 3910 and the 3930 should have the pipe plug on the rh side to check level. Rather pricey replacement tube at $219.

You are correct in replacing it as it is an integral part of that style filter. There are 3 different sizes I've run into depending on the size of the air filter. Different part numbers or equipment manufacturers will yield the same part for a particular size filter whether round or oval.

I have a 2016 580SN that the glow plug indicator doesn't light at start, but does during light check so the light works. I found the 60 A fuse for the circuit blown. Replaced, but still nothing. I am now looking for the glow plug GPC location. I'm thinking it's on the firewall. I called the...

Glad that worked for you. On a side note, I worked on a few TN tractors without cabs and found a HUGE price difference between the shift knobs for cab vs non-cab on NH tractors with the latter being reasonable.

Looks like a stamped number. Casting numbers are usually raised

No reason loops can't work aslong as dimensions are correct. Just longer bolts necessary to mount.

We had this happen on Japanese Ford CUTs with thos style of pin. We ended up creating a clevis mount for the lower links off of the loader subframe, if it exists, or find an attaching point to weld to under the axle. It's a lot of work in the short run, but saves having this problem in the long...

Fine adjustment on the turnbuckle to even out. Then, evaluate if you need to replace parts. The adjustment is very sensitive

Welcome to TBN. I have taken the shifter knob off to do this. The knob is a tolerance fit over the shifter, but it can be difficult to get off and sometimes remains somewhat loose after replacing.

Ah, gotcha now. As little play as possible, but determine how much is too much, when you turn the wheel left or right, is there a delay in the power steering responding. If you have to muscle the steering some before the power steering kicks in, then you have too much play in the actuator...

That is the correct term, just wasn't enough information to tell me what you were referring to. You want some play in the 3pt otherwise you can break something. You don't want it bowstring tight. The play you are referring to is in the 3pt or the turnbuckle linkage itself?

Rear end, trans hydraulic fluid. Turnbuckle? I’m not clear what you’re asking. Correct the level in the transmission and try for awhile. It should stop, but if it doesn’t, then I guess you need to split. Obviously not the most desirable thing to do.

Welcome to TBN. The diesel is a much better machine and holds its value bettrt

Just $200?:)

Interesting read from a different forum about a swing tower in TN. Also a poster from MA, so I guess not a regional term, rather a Deere term. https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/710406-Cracked-John-Deere-310D-swing-tower Searching Swing Frame or Swimg Tower yields similar results. Also...

Yes, hard to find the the brass/metal originals, but they all should bottom after a few (4,5,6,7) turns.

You are right as boom and dipper are formed metal that is welded together with replaceable bushings. The tower or swing frame as Deere calls it (#7 in the illustration) is cast and this is the piece that gets a little slop causing a lot of play down the backhoe. This is the part that would be...

From a machinist that makes his living doing this for a living on excavators, earthmovers and specialty equipment. He had a portable line boring business until California 'outlawed' his diesel truck. I don't know why you find it suspect as it his professional opinion, but it is only his opinion...

This from a machinist friend that does line boring of all types of machines: "First of all backhoe towers are made out of manganese steel they are not weldable. If you weld on them they get harder than diamond and you can't machine them out. They get brittle and they break if you bore them out...

Maybe 6 max.

#29 is the hanger I am talking about.

It is a 4400 with the inverted U axle and it would have the power assist cylinder and linkage up front. From you picture of the LH side, you can see a hanger on the loader frame indicating a 735 loader.

Welcome to TBN. I don't have the information, but I am curious, why are you looking for these specs? Blade carrier bolt hole centers could be estimated with new blades as a reference as tip to tip of opposite blade is overall cut width. A place to start.

Agree with MTGreen. Pretty sure that is more than it cost new. Also, Schwartz Manufacturing Company, SMC, was eventually purchased by Alamo Group, but I think parts are not supported. Not that there are many parts that could to be replaced on a loader.

Yes, don't do that. Raise to just before that

If the inner (position or lift control) lever is all the way back (turquoise) color in photo, the pump will run constantly against the relief. From England...

Would this help? This is information for an inframe overhaul kit cor a B276 Case-IH In-Frame Engine Overhaul Kit. BD144 & BD144A CID engine. 4 Cyl. Diesel. Standard Bore: 3-3/8�, Flat Head Piston. Contains: Piston Liner Kit, Connecting Rod Bearing Set, Upper Gasket Set, Pan Gasket. Fits models...

I'm thinking that the filter already fell off in the tank and the trash/gunk is already in the valve opening. Regardless, the tank will need to be drained to repair filter and clean the tank. This is just a diagnostic procedure and I agree, 5-10 psi air pressure would be adequate.

Welcome to TBN. CV joint? The axle uses a spur gear/shaft type axle.

It looks like a 3550 since it has wet brakes. Does it have a single power assist steering cylinder on the lh side? Also, looks like a 735 loader

Welcome to TBN. You may have a clogged fuel valve. You can blow compressed air back through the line from the filter and see if this fixes it. If so, the strainer on the fuel valve in the tank is missing and allowing gunk into the valve opening.

The Power Beyond is just that. Power Beyond the current component to supply power to the next component as its input. Return goes to sump.

The A1823315 is the filter number

Model is needed to answer this question. Welcome to TBN

It is a special dial indicator that screws into the back of the pump as shown in figure 47. But if the pump mounts came loose only, you should be able to match the pump flange to the timing cover via paint pattern or such and get it back to correct or very close. Welcome to TBN

It looks like a 3550 (does it have wet brakes? If so, the rear axle housing will look like a trumpet...small at the wheel, large at the center case.) Look at the RH ledge of the clutch bell housing for model code, date code and serial number. The backhoe has its own ID tag if it is still...

Here is a photo

You should be able to spin the PTO with the engine off

Definitely not the safest thing to do!

If you are pretty mechanical, it isn't terrible, but the seat and the rear transmission cover to inspect the PTO. I believe that the clutch is removed by removing the top PTO shaft from the rear, but the service manual shows that the rear end has to be separated from the transmission. Not sure...

And, do you have rocks?

Does it ever stop? Sounds like a hydraulic “wet clutch” PTO and either the solenoid valve that the switch controls is stuck or not hooked up. Also, the PTO brake is worn, the brake actuator is bad or the hydraulic system for the PTO is leaking by internally, but this usually causes the PTO...

You probably got the timing retarded too much. Or you put in incorrect plugs. Did you try and time it again?

The screws missing are not critical as the lug nuts and wheel hold the drum on. To replace the axle seal, the axle will have to be removed and disassembled.

Thanks Sportsman762 for responding as someone with MF experience should have answered sooner, but you have responded and that is great. I was working on my phone this morning and didn't have an answer until just now too. The link here is the pump with the notes that FordnMassey needs to...

Replacement with one to another shouldn’t be a problem, but I will investigate to see differences for rebuilding

Probably not real difficult, but it will sure get them to muscle up. You might ask this question on Allis Chalmers Forum: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forums.html

It probably has glow plugs, do they work? Is the fuel system and fuel clean? Do the injectors atomize fuel?

May have to heat the fitting after draining the coolant if PB Blaster or similar doesn’t work.

Pretty sure that one just pulls out. The ones that have to be pushed on have another internal snap ring in the barrel and I don't see any in the parts book

Copied parts book including both Maki 525 and 546.

The Maki 546 and 525 are odd as I thought Antonio Carraro tractors were just 4wd, equal sized tired, articulated tractors. Something new all the time! Stuart B and ptsg

Screw them all.....? But are they tightening the flywheel against the crank. It doesn't look like it

Basically, are the bolts too long and going all the way to the bottom of the hole, stopping before tightening the flywheel

Hard to say, but with that play, I would think it would throw it out of balance. In any case, there shouldn't be any play between the two. Are the bolts bottoming out before they can tighten the flywheel to the crank?

I would certainly figure a method to tighten the fit. It could be what contributed to the broken crank.

Okay, different crankshaft explains a little more. A pin is good, but you still need a tight fit flywheel to crank with or without a pin. Is it the bolts are bottoming out in the crank that is preventing the looseness?

I started to say that, but the parts book doesn't show one. It would help, but there looks like there is clearance between flywheel and crank

It should be tight. Are your bolts original? There is a shim, 187886M1 that can be used if the bolts are bottoming or hanging on the bolt shoulder. You could also trim the bolt length, but you need to determine what is causing this

Probably an updated/standardized industry size since your excavator was made

Ford did have the 756C backhoe subframe mounted available for the TC21, 6’ dig depth. As previously stated, it would probably not be cost effective and may be slow. I also agree that mounting a backhoe on that tractor is not a great choice as the rear end housing is aluminum and could break...

.22 mag or .357 snake shot load. If not readily available, I use a shovel carefully placed to sever the head.

First off, that is a ZF axle from Germany, not Carraro from Italy. There are aftermarket parts for both manufacturers for many of the hard parts, but few steering kits for Carraro and practically none for ZF. Anyway, the Deere 2555 uses an APL325 axle and the seal kit is AL70934, about $140 from...

Also, tractor fluid has additives for friction materials.

WAC (World Agritech Corp.) markets the Sicma mower in addition to the Caroni. World Agritech Corp (WAC) - IM - DN Equipment Parts link: Sicma:Finish Mower:All Sicma Finish Mowers:All Sicma Finish Mower Parts

They are time consuming to remove, but other than removing the steering wheel, which can be difficult even with the right puller, it might be worth the time to clean and seal with something like the following...

Could be the original valve, I assume it is electrically activated, or circuit has closed. If we know what it is you’re working with, we can armchair diagnose for you

Oh gosh, you are correct. I have been under the weather and was thinking of a TN, not TC!

You're a good son! Enjoy the time you have with your dad. Glad we could help.

The starter sounds like it is weak if you jumped the starter spade terminal. More correct, the solenoid may be weak to the point that the solenoid engages the starter gear, but not enough to make contact with the internal motor connection in the solenoid. Or, the contact points are burned enough...

The rear weights are 105# each. Generally, 4 weights is a good counterbalance.

Not knowing that unit, I would guess about 8 gallons

First, let’s talk about the numbers. 2708 lb. Operating weight is how much the machine weighs. Lift capacity is 760 lb. what the loader can lift…no more. And that may be figured at the bucket pivot pins, but may be figured 12-24” from the pivot pin. Tipping load is figured by lifting the loader...

Welcome to TBN. Regarding your 1973 instrument pane. Yes, and???

Glad it was a fairly easy fix and that it is working again

The button on the left side of the dash is for the thermostart manifold heater. Push it in when you are cranking, not before. BUT, it sounds like something else is going on. Does it smoke at all when you try to start? Do you have the throttle open all the way?

Does the relief open slightly when you pull the sector handle all the way back or just in general lifting the 3 pt?

Not really a time on the engine or the calendar, but being they are both 20+ years old, from a preventative maintenance perspective, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to do so. It beats waiting for water to start weeping from the seal in the middle of whatever you doing. You can also grab the fan (when...

There is no top or bottom to that bearing. The bearing washer goes in first, followed by the bearing, followed by another washer and finally the retaining ring. The bearing may be greasable, but the housing is for a non-greasable bearing. If it is a greasable housing and has a hole in the...

I am not sure about the draft other than there is a linkage problem under the 3pt top cover. The leaking down of the hitch is probably the lift cylinder seal is worn out. Both require removing the top cover to repair.

Is this a Case IH 885 or a David Brown Case 885? Whatever version, the PTO shaft may come out the back of the tractor and it is being held by a bearing from coming out the front.

I agree that engineers don’t necessarily have to see the fruits of their labor after it has been in the field, nor do they have to disassemble their works of art. The safety switch mandates are different for every series and size of tractor. The smaller the tractor, ie: lawn tractor, the more...

Masseys are strange in that respect. Their hydraulic system is not normal. Glad you figured it out

Welcome to TBN. #25 boot in the diagram attached is kind of pricey, but Messicks or any New Holland dealer can get it for you. https://www.messicks.com/commoncatalog?vendor=nh&modelId=148605 How many weights do you need?

No need for more pictures. The parts are pretty common. The front axle may be a Dana 44 or 60 axle from some of the research I have done. I like the story and what you have done. Let us know how we can help. This is a great story

Thanks for the pictures. That's a good looking, beast of a machine for 1967. Is there a model tag or casting number/name on the front axle? Can you take pictures of the master cylinder, front brake slave cylinder and front ball joints? Any measurements on the ball joints? I'm wondering if the...

Here is their manual: https://www.wil-rich.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Offset-Rolling-Plow-Parts-Manual-1985-2003.pdf A picture(s) of what you’re talking about would help

Welcome to TBN and thank you making me dig into the WainRoy history! I did some research to find that the engine is the English Dorset 2700E series which was used in many marine applications. I believe the Fordson Major was a similar engine, just smaller configuration. It should have a Funk...

Welcome to TBN. A little heat couldn’t hurt. Hopefully it’s just rusted and can be loosened up working on it externally. A new tractor for you I take it?

It looks like a Domries disc from Madera, CA. Great heavy duty disk http://www.domries.com/tfo.html

The black wire is ground. Take a jumper to the battery - and see if anything changes. With that jumper on, ground out the temp sender wire and see if anything happens.

Here is the wiring diagram for the safety start circuit. #31 is the relay I was referring to. It is a 70 amp relay and pretty sure it is under LH side of the dash. The PTO switch is on the PTO handle underneath the tractor. What I remember is that the wire gauge is pretty small and can't handle...

Welcome and thank you for your service! Can you get the starter to turn over by shorting the solenoid at the starter? If so, I gather this is a Ford 4230 from approximately 1992-1997? They had a safety circuit add on for the US market that utilized, I think, a 40 amp relay. I am pretty sure it...

Welcome to TBN. From your description, I gather it is the 90 deg petcock on the block. I would try ViceGrips if you can. If it doesn’t budge, try a little heat to break the bond. It may be the paint is keeping you from turning. You also may have to drain the coolant if you can’t get enough...

I would be comfortable with the aftermarket. As far as installation goes, they are not difficult to install and yes, bleed like any brake. Bleeder on the axle can sometimes be difficult to get to, but that’s about it.

You could take the guard and boot off, shove a vice grip into the hole and tighten on the rod. It won’t turn because it is fastened to the brake linkage internally. Also, you don’t need that flat washer guard, so don’t worry about reinstalling it. Harry’s idea is about the best, but I would...

Okay, good point. I'm used to larger tractors with dual bucket cylinders, but, as you said the loader pops it up. I have noticed that the BX series I have come across don't do much hydraulically unless at least half throttle. It is necessary to run at or close to full throttle to give you an...

The float detent is in the cap at the end of the loader spool. If there is rust in the cap or the detent assembly is falling apart, it will not allow the spool to center to neutral. As far as lifting the front with the bucket, the bucket has the most leverage and can lift the front when the...

The attached is for a 550, but essentially the same. #5 in the diagram is the ground for the instrument panel. You can run a jumper from the battery ground to there. Also, you can ground #6, temp gauge on the terminal that the arrow is pointing to find out if the gauge works. Likewise for #11...

Check the instrument panel ground since both fuel level and temp gauges are not operating. Leave a ground jumper on temp sender wire while looking at instrument panel ground. This will make checking easier.

Nice paint job! Nicer than factory

Welcome! All the parts you installed should have gone on without beating them on as the first two get tightened with clamping bolts. The last part needs close tolerance BUT it should pivot without a lot of force. Something is wrong with the pin.??..? I know the old pin, 20, is worn, but can...

D8NN7N089AA torque converter seal. Hopefully, you can just go in and replace the seal. BUT, it takes some doing to split and you shouldn’t just do a hurried job. At the very least, remove the torque converter, check flex plate for cracks. You may consider replacing the rear main seal and the...

It could be the valve, but more specifically the detent on the back of the spool. Did this just happen or has this been going on for awhile? One of the lift cylinders could be leaking by and I suspect a more likely problem. With the bucket flat on the ground, curl the bucket as you would dump...

Do you have idiot lights? The gauges are replaceable FYI, but it would be cheaper to buy an aftermarket instrument cluster. Sound more like an electrical connection or ground at the panel.

Follow the lines from the lift cylinders back to the hoses to find the two for the bottom ports and then plug the other two (bucket hoses) into the top ports. If the operation of each of those is backwards, switch ports left to right or vice versa

I don’t have a picture, but I believe the lower set is for the lift and upper set is for the bucket. If the operation of the circuit is backwards, swap those hoses. In other words, the circuits are top pair bottom pair.

Or, jack up the front axle and turn one side to see what happens. Listen and watch to see if it is a hub or the differential. Whe the tractor is off, the 4wd is engaged so the driveshaft will not turn. Only other place where a problem would be is the transfer case where the 4wd driveline comes...

Haven’t seen anything like that, but would agree that it is a grounding issue. See if you can locate the radio ground and look for loose connections

Welcome and don’t sweat the marks. Turn the crank by hand and watch the valves open (rocker down) on the first valve, then close. Turn the crank a little further. At this point, that valve along with 3 others will be closed and the rockers loose. Set the gap on them paying attention to which is...

That's good news, but still think that you take that detent cover off, you'll find out why it wasn't working. That also might be why you have developed a leak.

West coast ag expo next week: https://www.worldagexpo.com/

They should be 9/16” and maximum torque is 105 ft/lb. Start in the middle and work your way out in a circular pattern with 75-80 ft/lb, then 90 ft/lb then 105 ft/lb.

Sounds like the spool is getting jammed on something in the detent cap or the detent itself is rusted/broken

He bled at injectors with the bleed screw out and that is when it would run is how I read. Very weird, but it is the last point before the inj pump

It sounds like a blockage and the only thing that seems to be consistent is the bleed screw open, it will start. I’m wondering if there isn’t a particle in the bleed fitting somehow causing the line to the injection pump to be blocked. I once had a tractor that had a small piece of sawdust...

Actually, that answered the question as that is a picture of a mechanical lift pump, so it doesn’t have an electric pump underneath.

It is sort of a conundrum with the weep or level plugs. Once the auger heats up the grease, you may be able to check the level, but the main thing is that it being grease, it will cover the bearings and gears if you put in about a pints worth.

Does it have an electric fuel pump under the frame?

Also, pay attention to where the seals ride. You may be able to offset the seals to avoid any grooves in the shaft left by the old seal(s), but you may have to purchase a Speedi-sleeve to renew the seal wear area.

Yeah, bends on the ends only

Hydrostat has its own pump. Probably lost the drive on the pump shown

As I said, hydrostats work best at mid to high rpm. The feathering of the speed is done through the hydrostat transmission, not the engine as in a clutch unit.

You might try contacting for an owners manual: Mission Manufacturing | 324 N Brown | Princeton, IN 47670 (877) 262-1191 (TOLL FREE) (812) 385-5061 (PHONE) (812) 385-5077 (FAX) Web: https://www.powerkingtractor.com/ Email: richard@powerkingtractor.com

Hydrostatic transmissions are best operated at mid rpm to full rpm. As Doaaj50 asked though, did the tractor move forward or backward? Also, some whining is expected, but how much or how irritating is the question. Also, look at the hydraulic oil color/condition. Is it a clear, amber color or...

Generally, as I don’t know your backhoe mount, but even if you put the position control in any other place but all the way down, the backhoe attaching frame won’t let the 3pt up. It will, however, put the 3pt hydraulics into constant bypass, heating up the oil and damaging the pump.

Gotcha. Wasn’t sure why I wasn’t getting the problem. If you turn the engine around, you’ll have an oppos rotation and the pump will not work.

Not sure what you are asking. 7/8"-13 Spl coupler on a 1"-1/4 keyway shaft? This doesn't make sense. The coupler diameter is smaller than the shaft???

Interesting something you said, that when the draft control was down and position control was up, the 3PT didn't move. I hope not. I remembered that 3PT backhoes have the brace from the lower links to the top link. DO NOT leave the position control up as the 3PT will be fighting the brace of...

Welcome to TBN. From a New Holland tractor dealer

On the subject of the backhoe not having the power you are use to, you’re talking about a backhoe from 1964 when backhoe design/technology was still being developed. What are you comparing this backhoe experience to what you are use to? The other pin configuration would make a difference and...

Also, besides the draft handle all the way down AND the top link should be in the lowest, least sensitive position hole on the 3pt top link attach point

I don’t know if you’ve seen the French site, https://www.mtcreuse.fr/? They list 14599-6040 for the pump. Alternately, it would be faster and cheaper to get a seal kit, most likely one from another Shibaura pump or an outside vendor, to get you going.

Try Sheaffer's Town & Country Tractors https://www.japanesetractorparts.com/tractor-parts

Welcome to TBN. You can get it from Reliable Tractor Parts, for one source: Water Pump Fits Ford 1210 1120 1215 83989003 1220 1310 for about $122. Complete Tractor for $89 and free shipping: Search Results Amazon $76 and free shipping...