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The kink in the line would cause it to be slower, but you should still be able to dig through. As LD1 pointed out, it is the angle of attack and using the dipper/crowd that is the intent with the Ford backhoes. It is shaped with a long bottom for that reason, not shaped like an ice cream scoop.

Is it cable operated? Could be the new flange changed the adjustment.

I’ve used several Fasse products. Great product, decent prices, made in USA.

Agco publications: AGCOPubs.com - Technical Manual Store for all AGCOCORP Brands

Agree!

I wouldn't try to replicate the leak, but rather get a whole seal kit for the valve and just reseal. The spool and bore most likely is fine. You can look at the leak on the tractor by removing the bonnet and trying. The bonnet is a cover, not a retainer. Second, I would not take the valve...

It's a jack of some sort for sure. For what, it will be interesting to find out.

You can detach the bar across the glow plugs and test them without removing. 1 hlowug not working, cold temperatures and that engine has a hard time starting. Very cold blooded

So in the video, it starts, just won't stay running. Is that what it does everything, smoke and all? F When you changed the glow plugs and heated them, did the glow plug indicator on the dash glow orange? If it doesn't glow, it is faulty and needs to be replaced as it is in series with the glow...

No. The transmission is checked through the dipstick on tipoff the transmission. The rear end should have a 1/4" pipe plug on RH side of rear axle case just ahead of the axle about half way down. Thus is the level check. The filler is the large plug on top of the rear axle. There are two. Either...

Thanks for the pictures. As LD1 said, there are different holes for different reasons. Have you tried to to pin the dogbone link onto the bucket back hole? This would give you more leverage.

Not really. Different manufacturer

They look pretty much the same, just coating color on casting. Nothing else is necessary to replace if that is the problem. Make sure it requires Dot 3 or 4 fluid from looking at your OM. https://www.tractorpartsdirect.com/Zetor-Master-Clutch-Cylinder-62452712 Pretty decent YouTube on brake...

No lift pump

Also, do you have to rev the engine to do this when the oil is warm vs idle to mid rpm when it is cold?

Not many hours for pump failure. The only way to determine what is going on is to put a pressure gauge on the hydraulics. When the oil is cold, can you pickup the front of the tractor with the loader?

How many hours do you have on this tractor? First thought with the little bit of information here is that the hydraulic pump is worn out. When the oil warms up and the oil becomes more viscous, the pump pushes less oil through the system lowering the pressures.

I am not familiar with that model or how the transmission works, but my guess would be that the forward clutch has a bad sealing ring causing pressure loss resulting in the clutch slipping on the higher gear.

Interesting. Regardless of age and your experience with other machines, it may not be what you have experienced on newer machines, but it should curl and scoop dirt. What model is the backhoe or do you have some pictures of it?

SuperSteer steering operates the same as a normal steering system. What makes it different is that the axle assembly pivots with the hubs to create the tighter turning. The other difference is the tie rods are connected to the frame on each side rather than to the hubs. I think that the low...

T4.75 tends to be more of a farm tractor, not to say you aren't farming with it, but the T4 series is pretty extensive starting with the TN**, then the T4*** and currently the T4.**

Nice job, but what do you mean, “I never found much info….”?

Good luck Lane! The float detention assembly can be tricky to assemble. Make sure you disassemble the valve on a bench and floor area clear from clutter as the balls will fall out and can be hard to find once the hit the floor.

Agree with Roustabout that you found the problem when circuit tested good. The cylinders are pretty simple on those older backhoes. Chevron packing is the norm and a shop can put together cheap OR you can search for kits that range all over the price range if you don’t have a local shop.

Lane, welcome to TBN. Great pictures and description. Not sure what is supposed to go in the end cap if anything, but that spool valve (bucket or swing circuit?) has a leak at the bottom seal of that spool, located under that cap. If you remove that cap, it most likely is full of oil from the...

Doesn’t the hood detach on the front hinge?

Very nice. Offset going left, but no matter. Great repurpose

Aftermarket kits from Red Dot and others would be the thing to look at for rooftop. But, you might look at the parts books on both models and find that they are similar in components. At least the compressor mounts, condenser, evaporator and dryer along with mounting brackets would be the...

Welcome to TBN. Sounds like the shuttle lever is failing.

I believe, but not sure, that it goes through the filter, then through that line into the case.

Remove the end with the banjo bolt and try with Channel locks or another wrench to bend until it fits squarely on both ends. You could try some heat towards the middle to get it to bend easier. Heat at the fittings might loosen up the solder/braze joint.

What is wrong with the motor? Short block: 201 DIESEL FORD NEW HOLLAND SHORT BLOCK 4110, 4610 (1985-1986) Long block: Ford Tractor / Backhoe Diesel Rebuilt Engine Long Block -- FD-201D-LB

Drain as much as possible. You have drained the tank, now the only thing you can do is drain the oil out of the cylinders that you can.

That sounds like your best bet. I couldn't tell if they were welded or threaded. Sorry I couldn't be of anymore help, but that is why Danuser wanted to convert. Pretty bulletproof gearbox though.

Not sure about that model, but there may possibly a stepping motor on the throttle linkage. Just a thought

I'm wondering if the hydraulics might be the problem. As in there is a valve that is not responding very fast. Maybe a priority valve?

Not specifically, but it should be located on the cab side of the firewall, under the dash.

I will be curious to see it or try it myself. The one thing that I am won about is does it ever build up more tension as it rolls up. We shall see

Interesting way of DIY wire winder: https://www.grit.com/farm-and-garden/do-it-yourself/diy-wheel-mounted-wire-winder-zm0z18jazmcg/

I saw those too. The hitch configuration was more of what I was looking at to compare. Yours has the back-to-back angle tongue like the smaller M, or perhaps a #10

Possibly a McCormick M or MF

Dowel bolts are different than the tractor dowel pins. Dowel bolts are longer bolts than the case bolts and the head is removed. Screw these into the middle bolt holes in the case and this helps line up the input shaft to the pilot bearing. It also aligns the case while you are pushing the to...

If your splitting apparatus has rollers and you install dowel bolts, a tractor of this size can easily be pushed together.

https://www.millertire.com/9-5-40-alliance-row-crop-radial-rear-tractor-tire-8-ply/

Welcome to TBN. Hope as a group we can help!

Welcome to TBN. Yes on both questions. The notch out across from the red arrow is where you use a punch to remove the race.

I recall that you have a Vaaljapie TE F 20 and assuming that you are talking about this tractor. I would look at the steering gearbox to see if it has oil/grease in it and hopefully not rust or water

If I were in this position of not having any knowledge about a tractor like this, even with all of the input here, which is quite helpful, I would look at the oil bath once a month to see how much dirt is accumulating in the bowl, if I were going to use it on a daily basis. This would also give...

Agree. Just showing that manual guidance is a very basic baseline and oil bath or dry filter, you need to be aware of how much this  may affect the service.

That is great to see the owner's manual guidance, but 600 hours on an old tractor is a lifetime. It also depends upon the working conditions on any filter, oil bath or dry as to when to service the filter.

James, by no means do I know whether those parts will work on yours, but it's a cheap gamble if Eaton doesn't come through. From the information I could find on the Eaton part number for that motor, it is a Series 5, but couldn't find any part number's for such.

Not being an oem belt, it sounds like it was a close enough fit originally. You risk wearing the alternator or water pump bearings prematurely if you do get the belt on. I am not trying to be a smart-ass, but the best advice is to get a longer belt.

Looking at the parts diagram, I see that it uses cables on the shifters. I would lean towards the cable for the range shifter needs some adjusting as Park and II are both on the upper side.

One thing to add about loosening the pump mount bolts is that the lines can be kind of stiff making the pump a little stubborn.

You might try these parts. I had a TC24DA once that was leaking out the top. Kit is $190. so I ordered just the top seals and fixed the leak. I don’t know if the motor is the same series, but I’ll bet these might work. #5 is the culprit. As nyone said, gunk builds up on top of the motor. My...

Jerry/MT, only two cylinders on this engine

You were starting it with parts cleaner and brake cleaner???? Are the injectors bleeding fuel?

It very well is why you have problems starting. A blown head gasket between the 2 cylinders is allowing your compression to swap between the other cylinder without compression Making it difficult to start under normal conditions let alone cooler temps.

Sometimes just can’t roll the engine by hand or with a bar through the joint, but many methods to accomplish the task are always good.

Are you sure the line isn't bent slightly?

Does the starter relay click? Do you have 12v on the solenoid wire when swutch is turned to start? Are your battery clamp to cable end clean from acid?

Well, you could try unbolting the pump and slide it that way, but you can also bump the starter to get the bolts where you can access them. Detach the wire on the injection pump solenoid to prevent it from starting and make sure ALL of your tools are out of the work area. Likewise, once you have...

Welcome to TBN! Well, it’s been rode hard and put away wet. BUT, as long as the rotor is not damaged or out of balance, use it until you can’t. Biggest problem with it is the rods (#5) that hold the hanger/knives on the rotor. The hangars wear a notch in the rod and make it difficult to pull the...

sd455dan is right. Sometimes helps to loosen two bolts on pump too to give a little more room, but not too difficult. Good time to grease the u-joints on the pump drive too.

Welcome to TBN. Here is my link to the parts book, but it isn't much help as the ball joints are obsolete. The cross kits may be available somewhere. Let us know the dimensions/type and we may be able to help. https://1drv.ms/b/s!AoI2ya_-yGlsge4ZeqXWE2bJ_rsERA

What happened to the flywheel that you got the clutch from?

First off, thanks for making me look up your tractor and town, both of which I had not heard of before. The best way would be to flush the cooling system after you drain out the existing coolant. If you have petcocks on the radiator and block, you can drain that way.

Welcome to TBN! Yes, the 1110 and 1210 use the same ring and pinion.

That’s good to hear. In some cases, there can be two thin seals installed back to back with the spring side facing out. As long as your new seal has a good surface to ride on to make a seal, it is fine.

Your driveline, if original, is a Bondioli Pavesi series 100; triangle driveshaft. You can buy the replacement guarding, complete. Search for A-SK1C

Yup and that is an over 60 Hp feature. Not quite the same thing here

Okay, I have to admit that you do have to take the top cover/rockshaft assembly off too. The PTO sliding gear is under the top shaft that you can see going over the differential gear. There is probably wear to that shaft and you will have to take that shaft out to remove the sliding gear. If...

That is a picture of the top cover or rockshaft. The plate is forward of that on the rear axle housing

If I remember right, you can remove the seat and sheet metal over the rear axle to access the small plate in front of the top cover. Then, you should be able to access the PTO coupler for inspection. It may be that the rollbar top half comes off, then the fenders/rear deck come off. Can’t...

Welcome to TBN. Direct message ‘thepumpguysc’ on here

Here are some shots from the Service Manual on the PTO and rear end

Yes, the 1920 double clutch has this adjustment and you would rotate it to find the bolt/lock nut. BUT, since you can stop the PTO with the clutch pedal all the way in and shift without grinding, it does not need an adjustment! It sounds as though everything is operating properly on the...

I agree, but looking at the literature and the picture of the valve, it appeared to be a plug. It could be a shim relief under there. Being it is an older Yanmar, anything is possible. They could be depending on the tractor system relief, but you are probably right.

Not so sure as it looks like a plug, rather than a relief valve, but can't hurt to unscrew the plug and find out.

No relief on your valve. Link to specs: https://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@hyd/documents/content/pll_1997.pdf

Kit is available. 3404477M91. Can find on Amazon and other places. Picture of cylinder out of the parts book showing breakdown. Parts book link: Search masseyferguson/1637379/l | Shop AGCO Parts

One way to support the engine is to fabricate some stands to support the rails of the oil pan. Use the bolts of the pan to secure it in place. I split a 5520 a few years ago, but I think I may have used my splitting stands made for Ford tractors

Yes, it will.

The fuses are of the European style. The serial number should start with a B. I will look and see if I have the European chart.

Interesting. I have not seen this one. I have a plastic welder that is like a glue gun with different types of sticks for different plastics. The nose on my travel trailer has cracks and I tried using it with little luck. I ended up using the plastic rods for the gun and chuck them in my Dremel...

It doesn’t hurt the engine. One thing you can do is open the throttle all the way until it gets going steady. The little extra fuel will raise the compression a little to help ignite the fuel.

Looks like you are already on it on the FB 37 thread here. https://parts.agcocorp.com/en_US/apbsearch?q=white/43338500/l&c=76&tocGuid=9d93d7fb-4967-cd97-b469-2d34de8633c4&name=POWER%20TAKE-OFF%20CLUTCH

Regarding the 3pt drop, it sounds like the 3pt lift cylinder is leaking by. Also, to figure out what model Ferguson it is, look at the LH side of the engine for a ‘Z’ number like Z134 to determine the tractor model.

I did not read earlier that you are in Poland, so the US salvage yards aren’t much help

The waffle shape on the brown bits is definitely friction material and from your description, most likely brakes. What is the jelly like substance in the filter cap? Might be wrong type of oil causing this.

https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/salvage-equipment/international-salvage.html https://www.machinerytrader.com/listings/dismantled-machines/international/loader-backhoes/1046

The radiators from A&I are good quality. Search A-84524C93

Have you searched IH salvage yards?

Welcome to TBN. My guess it was made by CO-OP BTW, a picture is worth a thousand words!

Perhaps a McLaren? https://www.mclarenindustries.com/us/en/attachments/log-grapple-bucket-attachment/28/

Kind of what I was getting at, but to the point!😀

Great story! Thanks for sharing the ending....

A good grade trans/hyd oil Deere Hygard, Mobil Delvac, Kubota UDT

Autonomous sprayer Global Unmanned Spray System - Guss https://gussag.com/ New Holland Autonomous Electric T4 Tractor - CNH Industrial presents first electric tractor prototype with autonomous features

Sounds as though the clunk is coming from the solenoid pulling in when energized, but the contacts are burned and not allowing a closed circuit to engage the starter.

It should handle it fine. It has the Hp and the lift capacity to lift it out of the ground. Just curious, who makes a 21” auger? 18 or 24” are pretty standard. It should be able to handle a 24” auger too.

Got it. Thanks for sharing.

Have you seen this? https://www.dieselworldmag.com/diesel-tractors/vintage-cast-435l-tractor/

Did you ever find a cylinder? Used on 480D, E, F 12’ backhoe too.

First place I would look is the driveline out of the transmission. Are the u-joints ok? Did the bolts on the parking brake shear? Possibly the bolts from flywheel to torque converter or flywheel to engine sheared.

Not real familiar with the IH models, but wondering if you got this fixed? I would think you have to remove the rockshaft/top cover to access.

Welcome to TBN. The banjo bolt screws into the valve through the banjo fitting on the hose. Are you saying that the bolt is spinning in the housing, but not unthreading?

Most likely an interlock as previously stated. Probably the easiest to check would by the 123R shifter lever under the cowl for the shifter.

Yes, not a speed control issue. So I found this on another TBN post which I have included the link. The poster's problem was a little different so I highlighted the section that sounds like it applies to your problem. "The MLS valve serves 2 purposes, both based off the load it "senses" on...

Does your tractor have draft control? It sounds like you are moving the draft lever rather than the position control lever

The only thing you can do is put a socket on the crankshaft nut on the front....that is, if there is room. Probably easier to take the starter out and turn flywheel with a screwdriver.

Look at this thread. Seems to be ISO5675. Thread is about the male tip, but lot’s of info here. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/mx5200-rear-remote-coupler-size-type.398675/

Once a year under normal conditions. To check how soon it may need to be done is look at the bowl that the oil is in and see how deep the layer of dirt is. Pretty much a judgement, but you can tell

Here are some couplers and good info on flat face couplers from Stucchi...

How about this...

Pretty sure the parts link title is correct, not to mention it is a 3 cylinder I think you might be going by the old system of model indicating # of cylinders, hp. This is a good read on that: https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/65697-model-number-meaning/

If I remember correctly, the shaft guard tube slides back from the front axle. There is a coupler that connects the 4wd driveshaft to the front differential. Undo the snap ring on the front of the coupler and slide the coupler forward until the driveshaft can be removed from the shifter box. The...

Just wondering. On the double clutch unit, when you depress the clutch half-way, you are disengaging the transmission clutch. When you depress the clutch all the way down, you are releasing the PTO clutch. Is that what you mean when you say, "there is a position of the PTO shaft with no...

Just found this: https://www.muttonpower.com/product/1318/john-deere-260-backhoe-attachment Watch the video

Actually, the parts book shows several subframes depending on series. Below is just one: https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/79692/referrer/navigation/pgId/29848905

US 1920s did not have a two speed PTO. Those that have two speeds are 540 and 750 rpm. There is usually a lever on the side of the rear case that allows the sliding collar to shift from one to the other. And, as Btown indicates, the clutch needs adjusting. Could be a double clutch, where the...

Could it be the tilt switch is bad?

Forest Service insists on a bare wire on the bottom strand I guess so coyotes, bunnies and such don't get scarred

Mitsubishi KE70 injector. Looks like Southern Global has an exchange injector service - Injector Assembly - IA-MT401R Also an older link on TBN for the same subject: Mitsubishi KE70 Injectors

Agree with Harry in Ky about complexity of 3910 wiring, but also, Ford tended to give several schematics for the same tractor that are not the easiest to read. But, I have stood with very experienced mechanics that were lacking in electrical trouble shooting or able to read a schematic. One...

See my answer on your first post on this

I looked at the parts book briefly. The ”door” glass is the same on both, but the hinges have been updated. That is the only difference I can see, but the door itself looks like it hasn’t changed.

The 4wd engages in the box under the middle of the tractor where the driveshaft comes out. It could be the shifter is not engaging or there is a coupler #44 at the front of the shaft, back of the front axle that many times strips the splines out.

Kerosene or diesel flush would be a good idea.

Apologies on the aluminum as that is what it looked like in the pic.

And what model/series is it?

Maybe tell us which one (model) and in what? Tractor, boat, truck?

E-commerce dealers show it as backordered, $344. if they could get. They are still available in Europe, €252., but definitely could be repaired.

Considering the original case break and stud repair, I would beef up the toplink mount by making a bracket that ties into the 4flats on either side of the PTO, drill, tap and bolt it there. The aluminum housing isn’t strong enough. I know you said you replaced the 3PT post hole digger in favor...

I that you should get your non-dealer mechanic to repair and sell too.

If you try and use the loader rather than testing by momentary actuatating the valve, perhaps, but if your hoses are that weak, then you have the wrong hoses installed or they are very old. Also, doing this after just hooking up the hoses will not warm the oil Beyond ambient.

Pretty straight forward, but now that you have a picture, better still. Worst case scenario, you will have cylinders fighting each other if you cross hoses.

Spout at top as mentioned, then roll spout as pail empties. No tools, one opening, done!

How about this? I know it’s vertical, but it is something to work with...

Did this problem just start all of a sudden?

Thanks for that info. I didn't know that about that about the adaptability. I laugh at the fact that they have the reputation as a marine filter, but they are very good.

I was thinking that too, but does Racor make a small version filter setup that is easier to mount on a small tractor?

You might try looking at this thread: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/iseki-ts1610-4wd.68411/

How about...

Possibly this: https://www.heavydutypros.com/deutz-fuel-pump-o-ring-4233830.aspx?utm_medium=paid&utm_keyword=&utm_source=google&utm_source=&utm_campaign=17501878712&utm_network=x&utm_placement=&utm_prodid=176518&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj7TYs6Sv-wIVcQB9Ch0fzwcREAkYBSABEgKUM_D_BwE

3A151-55060 mat at Kubota dealer

Lift problem - it sounds like you blew the oring on the 3pt cylinder. Revving problem - linkage or spring under pump cover has disconnected or broken. You might PM thepumpguy on this question

It’s not your search ability, the diagram is missing for a 1715. The 1710 diagram should be the same - Schematic, Manuals, Specifications and Diagrams for 4wd gears - 1310,1510, 1710 New Holland AG | MyCNHi US Store

They can leak at the spindle seal or the input seal. You should notice an oily/dirty mess in the area of a leak. You can use 80w90 gear oil in the axle. As stevem5215 said, is there wheel wobble? Do you hear any bearing noises like a bearing that is/has failed? Check with the engine off and the...

Check out this old post: Exploded diagram for Vicker pump off Ford NAA OR just look at diagram http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@hyd/documents/content/pll_1573.pdf

So right Spanner. I looked up the 345, but went to a 335 pump.

I don’t recall, but I would say it is probably the linkage causing the problem

That should have a vacuum operated fuel pump, not mechanical. There might be a restriction in the fuel outlet from the tank

Okay, I see the relay. Thanks Ruffdog. Link to 6400 shows alot too. Good post!

I don't see the relay you are talking about. The battery and cable are good. Shorting the two large terminals bypasses the starter solenoid, which is probably your problem. When you apply power to the small lead on the solenoid will it turn over or will it click and/or engage then stop? The...

If run a line from the hitch coupler charging line to a battery for the compressor, you wouldn't need a charging circuit on the compressor. $80 is not bad for the kit and looks pretty simple. What about choke?

In regards to selling them, are they branded with your brother's brand? You might call your brand inspector (Look up online under Texas state livestock or brand inspector for your area) and tell them the situation to find out how you could sell some of the cattle legally. I like your option 3...

The whine is probably from the oil flow through the valve being restricted causing back pressure on the pump and thus the whine. What size are the supply and return ports on the valve?

Success after much instruction!

I like the second one with the turf tires and a carb kit is not difficult. Question for that one is how does it run with the needed carb kit? Is the engine sound??

The pump seal kit is DHPN3A674A. It runs about $45. from New Holland. Aftermarket kits happen to be more money!

You’re not complaining too much. Similar complaint about engineering and using on another thread. Politicians make unrealistic regs. Engineers make a product to meet regs, but don’t use or have to use to experience the downsides of their design. Also, because the product is engineered, that cost...

It could be a Zexel or Kayaba valve. Diagrams are found in the Ford New Holland 1220 hydraulics section. The tractor year is later, but could be an earlier valve.

Possibly the same as a Ford New Holland compact tractor?

When I attended Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo in the 80’s, the school farm had two of them equipped with cultivator bars. Very light and nimble cultivator tractors and kind of a kick to drive.

Is it a 1532 or similar? And, is it the hub or spindle seal? If it is the spindle seal, then lining up the roller bearings and the vertical shaft is a little tricky. You’re trying to get 36, 37 and 45 in their respective bores and line shaft 44 and gear 33 up at the same time.

Sounds like a 4WD hub also. Sometimes the new seals are a little snug, but you need to look at the hub boss that it is going on, it may have a small rise that the seal rides on. Also, did you use a tool to put the new seal on? If it is the large seal, you can use the old seal as a tool, but if...

P822768 is the replacement. I saw what Username Taken had too and apparently the dealer is right, but.... I would check and see why the dimension differences because all these filters seal on the protrusion. I would suspect that the new Kioti filter is not boxed correctly???

You also could be getting air in on the oil seal of the pump.

To answer the question of affecting hydraulic operations, the answer is no.

I’ve read your description several times. When you swapped with a spare pump, you unbolted the whole assembly at the engine and replace with another, pump and drive? And, you encountered play on the gear and wobble shaft on the original pump. Did you find a problem with the bearings? Why was...

I remember seeing the inside of one of those transmissions. The gears are very thin so be careful forcing the shifters.

You’re an outlaw! But same here, I brought some back from Texas. Nothing like being regulated into oblivion, but there are ways of surviving in California

Curse California Air Resources Board for giving us the ability to spill more gas than with a regular Jerry can! Imagine that, a flex spout and vent!

Welcome to TBN! Shop around. Your dealer is making quite a bit on it. Messicks wants $175. New Holland Rochester $172. This Ebay offer for previous part number wants $155 https://www.ebay.com/itm/125302542452

Well try getting in touch with the outfit on the link I sent you. I see no reason it won’t work, but they may know.

In the tandem pump setup, the front pump is for the steering and the rear for the loader. When you say it is no longer working, you mean no movement on loader or steering?? Maybe there is an air leak on the suction side. Why did he rebuild it and now says it needs to be replaced? Did he see...

This is a different pump number that was used on the MF 430. The pump you have was used on the 430 on earlier serial numbers and then replaced by this one on the 430: 00113588U91 from AGCO - HYDRAULIC PUMP You might call them and see what they say. Also, what is wrong with your pump(s)? And...

That's the Massey part number. No other numbers?

Are they Bosch pumps and are they both bad? If you share the Bosch numbers, perhaps someone can come up with a substitute. Did you see this: https://www.aga-parts.com/agco/part/0017659u91_hydraulic-pump/

Did you try DNE Equipment?

Are you talking the lift pump in the rear end housing? Or the tandem pump off of the engine? The rear pump can be rebuilt and probably a substitute can be made for a different pump

Francis, the wheel is a 10 x 24 wheel. In your picture, RH side, I think you are referring to the tails of the cotter pin. Also, underneath the nut is a lockwasher. Two aftermarket rims, second one with hardware. I would torch the nuts/bolts and go from there if you have a cutting torch...

No clue, but I would look at the engine or other components to help answer that question. Other thing would be to call the guys at TMS

Hunter, a friend of mine has a VR28RE, much older and I found some parts online about two years ago at Construction Equipment and Parts from the Worlds Most Respected Manufacturers., but he has a parts book. It looks like Multiquip bought Essicks out.

Also, several have warned about the springs under the cover, but make sure you take them out before moving the shift rails otherwise, if one of the ball/springs is in a detent groove, once you move the rail, the spring will pop out into the transmission.

Then I would steer your mechanic to the priority valve or at least find out how the solenoid controls it. Most priority valves are hydraulically demand activated, so that when the extra fluid is needed or demand is called for, a spool valve moves the extra oil to that circuit, in this case, the...

I have R1s on my 550 Ford and use it on the ranch a lot. The traction pays off when I need the extra push especially in the DG/sandy conditions I have to use it in. Occasionally I road it, but not enough to warrant a flatter tread. Mind you, it takes a lot more torque.

I see the castle nut and cotter pin, but I don’t see metal around the nut. There is only the cotter and nut, metric. Heating the nut is probably the nest step if PB Blaster doesn’t do the trick. I don’t see those prices for the rims, but you measure the width at the bead. That is where the...

Originally, I was thinking of just ag tractors too. The compact tractors have a simple 3pt controlled by a 2 way remote valve with a float position, but I don’t think they really had much if any down pressure. As far as ag tractors go, down pressure doesn’t give much advantage.

Ag tires would work fine, but if the current tires are close to your outriggers, you will need to check tire diameter. Most early Case backhoes had 16.9x24 tires, but I guess 14.9x24s are possible

If they are rubberized washers, you can probably get away with it. If all copper, you might get lucky, but out of 12 washers, chances are 1 or 2 will leak

Behind the engine attached to the flywheel. The torque converter flex plate may have cracked and broken away from the flywheel. You can check by pulling the starter and look in the bell housing at both. If your linkage outside the transmission is good, it could be detached inside the bell...

True, both skiploaders have down pressure, I stand corrected, but they also have float in the hitch as they were originally backhoe tractors with an add on hitch. Down pressure actually gets you in trouble faster unless that is all you've ever used.

I thought about this since I wrote it. I grew up learning to drive my dad's Ford 9N which has only draft control on the hitch (Ferguson System). He had a 3pt disc and I learned quickly how to moderate the control to keep the disc and tractor from bogging down in soft soils.

Thanks for clarifying that there is no lift cylinder under the top cover. It shows my age and lack of knowledge on the Kubota front! A proper 3pt will not have down pressure on the hitch and I can't think of any tractor that does, but I'm sure there are some out there. As far as the draft...

The pump on that is actually a tandem pump. Driven end sandwiched betwwen the drive and end pump is the main hydraulic pump. The end pump is the steering pump. Both pumps draw from the same sump so the assumption would that the steering should have suffered as well if it is an oil problem, but...

Okay, so the hydraulic cylinders on the hitch just assist the one under the top cover under the seat. Again, only hydraulic power up. You cannot lift the tractor by lowering the hitch. The position control sets the position of the 3pt. The hitch will move to a position when you move the lever...

So it wont turn over? I would say the ignition switch is faulty. Try jumping from the + post on the solenoid to the start terminal on the solenoid (while in neutral of course). Does it turn over? If so, put a jumper from the + side of the coil to + post on the battery and try jumping the...

The 3pt has only hydraulic lift, so it floats naturally. The loader should have float on the lift valve if you push it one detention position past the down position.