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Siding fixed, to be painted and touched up later, but now I can start the project. The plan is for a 10’ wide by 12’ deep (decided to add an extra 2 ‘) concrete landing pad leading up to the front door: The lines aren’t to scale, but the pad will use retaining wall block for the forms, with...

I bought a set of SK snap ring pliers from Amazon this year - about half the price of the Knipex that I actually wanted. But, I figured I would try to save some money, while not going completely to the bottom shelf. Anyways, I'm pleasantly surprised by the quality. Recently taking apart a...

Sandy soil…with lots of shallow pine roots! Oh well. I’ll be doing the corner posts in concrete, as well as the poles holding gates. Anyways, after what seems like forever, I got all the rot out and started replacing the double 2x10 band joist. There was more to pull out than expected, so I...

It may have been the old A/C unit, good call. I got caught up in working on a fence most of today so didn’t make much progress…I’ll test the circuit tomorrow. Yes it was a horribly built deck. We’ve been here for over 4 years and it was already falling apart when we bought the house. Here’s...

Good Morning All, With 2 months off work, i've decided to tackle rebuilding my improperly built, rotting front deck. I'll post some "before" pictures later today, but the deck was approximately 40' long by 12' deep (5' in some places) and screwed directly into my siding. Not only was this deck...

Thanks all, I think I’ll look at a deck over. Also Runner, that looks like a beautiful property

I’m looking at getting a larger trailer for hauling materials (think lumber, steel beams, pallets of block/quickcrete). I’d like the ability to haul vehicles occasionally (3025e, Tacoma, older cars), but the main work would be done with materials. I’ve been getting by so far with my 8 foot bed...

Thank you. That’s a good point - I’m very cognizant of not going under my truck unless it’s supported by Jack stands and I’ll throw a wheel underneath just Incase. Who knows if I’ll even get it working.

Thank you for all the advice. Back to the shop tomorrow to mess around with it again.

It’s rock solid. I can’t budge it with a mallet. I turned it upside down and pushed the piston into my workbench with all my weight and the pump (well, the bracket/piston that the handle pumps) shot out. What could be blocking it, maybe an incorrectly size check ball that allows fluid in, but...

Well, I just keep rearranging the check balls until I got it to pump the piston (finally). However, once I push the piston about halfway back into the cyclinder/reservoir, it stops and won’t budge. I’ve bled the Jack a few times. What causes this? Too much fluid?

So this is where I’m at: From right to left (bottom first: - valve release assembly - (screw 1) cap to max weight adjust. You can see the flathead inside the hole to adjust. I didn’t touch this. -(screw 2) quick/speed Jack valve (can’t get the balls back out) -(screw 3) release valve - pump...

I took the entire thing apart. I’m having trouble even getting it to bleed air so I may need to just it all apart again… The piston and u-seal is seating correctly, or so I thought. I’ll check that too.

Thanks for the reply, I’m disassembling the damn heavy frame to get the Jack out now, and bleed it. Man these things are bulky

First, I apologize if this is the wrong area to post this. Anyways, I’m rebuilding a pro-lift floor Jack, and I’m having issues. When I go to pump the Jack, it doesn’t move the piston at all. I feel resistance at the last 10% of a pump, almost as if it’s pushing back. However, if I pull the...

That’s a tall task. I’ve been to dozens of estate sales and haven’t found many 3/4 sockets. Maybe some farm auctions. Most people have little use for 3/4 compared to 1/2 and 3/8, so there were probably quite a few less sets produced. I hope you find them, good luck!

Bought a big old craftsman box full of assorted tools/sockets at estate sale. From a retired Army mechanic’s estate. Everything made in America, lots of Proto and SK sockets and wrenches. Also had three pairs of original vise grips, back when they were made in the US.

Well, got the roof finally on today. Thanks for all the suggestions. I did a 9” over hang, used a couple 2x6s and just screwed the fascia board to them, tied in with purlins. Not shown in the picture is the rake trim. I’m sure I’ll have a couple more questions for you guys…next stage is pour a...

I’m doing purlins with 5/4 decking boards. I am doing fascia, but it’s a flimsy 1x6. Please see the drawing below and let me know what you think. I wish I planned for that, next time….moving the posts is not an option unfortunately Got that, just picked up all the metal today. Would this...

Yeah, that was what I was thinking. The problem is, the more I think of it, that I should have extended the header out 8” past the posts. I remember doing gable ladders on my barn (got a lot of good advice for that build here) and they sag slightly. I build the ladders last night to test fit...

Hi all, I’m build a covered deck and can’t decide if I want to put a 6” overhang on the gable ends. I have a 12” overhang on the eave. If I decided to add 6” on either side with a ladder extension, it would cost me an extra sheet of metal, since the deck is 24’ wide and each sheet is 3’...

I live in the southeast, and I have a few “curbs” along my driveway that I’ve shaped from crusher run and powdered concrete. Has held up great so far and is pretty sturdy.

With the photos and your post, I see a few potential options (some already mentioned above). 1. Kill the weeds, lay weed control fabric, then cover with rip rap (this was suggested above). Rip Rap won’t wash away and looks nice. 2. Grade and grow grass. You can use some jute landscape fabric...

Looks like a great piece of land you got there, too. I’ll be following this build.

erosion control netting and grass seed on the berm, sand area is graded how I want it and ready from crush and run Tuesday. Project is moving along:

Done with the rocks. Next steps: Lay seed and netting on berm slope // get 20 tons of crush and run for driveway // order retaining wall block for the other side (100’ at 12” total height, with the first 4” below grade. Also, picked up a 6’ x 28” x 2.5” red oak slab yesterday for $100. Great deal.

We will see. It goes up the sides a little. I don’t want to pay $300 more for rocks right now. maybe down the road. I’ll keep an eye out for that starting to happen, thank you.

Taking a break from sweating my ass off:

After a couple discussions with my local landscape supplier and a Neighboor, I decided to go with surge rock for the ditch, and grass on the berm. Sod was too expensive for me, and the chance of failure was higher than I wanted for the price (I have zero experience laying sod and my soil is...

I am going to check with my local landscape supplier today and figure out what the have around here. Good suggestion about putting grass in the ditch. The driveway will be relatively impervious, and i expect water to shed off the drivway into the ditch. I'd like to just get ahead of any...

Ah, got it. Let me measure that this afternoon, easy. I've looked into that option for other spots on my property. There is a company within 20 miles that I could call. I'd estimate it'd be about 1000 sqft, which according to google would be about $500-$1000 depending on local costs etc.

Alright see below for pictures: Photo 1 is looking down the drive. Center you can see the small ditch, then immediately right of the ditch is what I’m calling the berm, even though it’s just a slope: Photo 2 is looking UP the drive, from the downhill side. Ditch is to the center and berm to...

I can measure it tomorrow, but off the top of my head the angle of the actual ditch is probably 30-40 degrees. I’m going to go take a picture, but basically I have an 18-24” wide ditch, then I have the berm off to the high side. The slope of the berm ks significantly less than the ditch.

Never heard of Pearl millet, gonna look into it. Thanks for the suggesting on the ditch blocks…assuming that’s just a ledge, or is that actually putting in stone? And yes, I need to take the shovel and run the bottom of the ditch flat. Priority right now is to get the ditch 100%, then bring in...

On the sloped berm next to the cut I’m planning on seeding with something that’ll do well in the summer (Bahia or Bermuda…open to suggestions but it needs to tolerate sand), and then getting some erosion control rolled fabric to lay over the top while it germinates. Inside the cut, I’ll just do...

Yeah no big rocks at all. Really just sand and clay. Yeah good point, I’ve been using the laser to check general slope but I did a water test today and found a few flatter spots. Would you guys recommend laying down some landscape fabric in the cut before I put down some drainage stone?

More work updates: got the grade decent. Ended up moving a massive amount of dirt! Shovel for scale in the left of the dirt pile. Extended the rough cut into the woods about 100’ and had to use my pallet forks to move an old bridge. We may use it later so it was easier to just pick the whole...

Finished for the day. The driveway has gone from sloped to level-ish. Still have quite a bit of earth to move to give it a slight grade towards the trench

Broke ground last night. Thank you for everyone’s suggestions. I’ll post updates as it rolls along. Step one: rough cut a small ditch and roughly level the driveway. Then, I’ll set up the rotary laser and start getting precise.

We don't get enough snow down here to plow. The most snow i've seen was about 6" that melted within 48 hours. It was an anomaly, but I wish it happened every year because it was fun for the family. Good point about the lawncare times, I don't mind adding an extra 150' of trimming, and really...

I think this is the tipping point project to buying a tripod laser level for me, we will see. Regarding the cinderblock, that was a typo. I plan on buying come retaining wall block, a bit more visually appealing. I agree cinderblock walls look bland. Great point about the berm, I hadn’t...

Thank you everyone for the input. This is exactly why I posted this here, because everyone has great input. Here is my current new plan: 0. No French drain on downhill side. 1. Expand the driveway on the downhill (right) side for a turnaround. To do this I will create a border with...

Yes, you assumed correct. The previous owners dug a trench and berm on the uphill slope to prevent washout of the driveway. I will look into the dip diverting flow into the berm/trench area. Going to go take some quick eyeball measurements. I appreciate all the advice. Yes, the grass is also...

Yes, water tends to flow towards the blue side because it is the downhill side. The water then runs along the blue line and laterally off into the grass. Where would you recommend that dip divert the water to?

Hi everyone - I have some time off and would like to fix my crush-and-run driveway’s drainage. Water flows across the driveway downhill and is washing out the grass on the downhill side. My main idea is a really long French drain system with multiple inlet catches on the downhill side. Here...

The fact that you have a just in case BUCKET immediately tells me you’re not a hoarder. It would be a different story if you have multiple “just in case” PILES of scraps that you’ve got to step over/wade through

Too Cold for me! 44 here now, high of 74. Need some more rain for the garden.

Yep, I usually start another project before finishing my current project! Will post more pictures of the shops. Thank you. We decided to put the additional 6x6's mainly for looks..gotta keep the wife happy. Yeah, I ended up using plywood and some synthetic roofing felt that my neighbor gave...

^^ Well, still working on the front of the Barn. Been delayed because I’ve been focusing on the new shop, just a bigger version of our current one. I can’t figure out how to rotate pictures...so I apologize! for the front of the barn, I just sank 4x4s for the door frames, and attached them to...

Just an update - thank you to everyone for the insight. Roof is on, still chugging away at the rest of the barn. I'll post plenty of pictures in the next week! Anyways, here's what I ended up doing for the roof: 2x6 Rafters 24" OC 5/8 Plywood Synthetic roofing felt (Black plastic roll, don't...

Yeah yeah, I should have been more clear about that. Our animals are happy right now in a 16x16 pen...this is a major upgrade for them To be honest, we actually prefer the metal roof. All buildings on our property have metal roofs, so we're just keeping with the look. Someday i'll do shingles...

Noted regarding the 4-6" of wild tin. That's a good idea, and i'll roll with that.

Yes, I basically overbuilt to this because I wasn't worried too much about overall cost...although its piling up! We wanted three smaller (8x10) pens and the covered area out front. The idea is the animals can still be gated and have a roof overhead to protect from the sun/rain, but can hang out...

Thanks for all the inputs. I will probably go with purlins directly against the metal roof. Not too concerned about a little bit of condensation as this will be a goat barn, not a shop or anything. clintock, your post makes sense...I’m still trying to figure out the overhang. I’m thinking 12”...

And here are some obligatory photos of my JD 3025e being useful:

Good morning everyone. I am currently in the process of putting up a 15’x24’ barn. The picture below is about where it stands today: Now as I finish the odds and ends with the headers (knee brace, nailed and finish my carriage bolts), I need to finish my roof plans. To be honest, I’m kinda...

Thank you all!

Hi All, New member here from NC. Currently using a JD 3025E for work around the property. I frequent Green Tractor Talk, but I really enjoy the knowledge here regarding building construction. Hope everyone is having a great day!