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I don't know your tractor. My Mitsubishi had a fill plug screwed into the top of the transmission just behind the gearshift. The level could be checked by pulling a plug on the left side or by sticking a rod (or long screwdriver) down the fill hole.

I say gravel is a bad idea. It will be really ugly to crawl on later and it will cut the plastic to shreds when you do crawl on it. Sand is probably a far better choice. On the plastic will help hold it from shifting when you crawl on it and you won't notice the layer of dust that will settle...

I agree with Mike. Pull a fuel line before the filter. See if you get good flow from the tank. I'd allow it to drain about a quart before putting the line back together. If fuel flow stops or gets really slow you do have crud in the tank.

If the dash goes black and it dies it sounds like a defective electrical connection somewhere. Your tractor may have an intermittent ground problem somewhere. Follow your battery terminal to ground, clean, and tighten. Make sure the power line from your battery is intact and solid to the...

When I want to learn something I go to You Tube: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=polarizing+a+generator

For your uses and criteria about any one you choose will be the right one be it from Amazon, Harbor Freight, or Walmart. Make sure it can measure ac volts, dc volts, and ohms. Fluke meters are probably the best but far beyond your $50 limit. The Klein you showed on Amazon will probably last...

Is the transmission actually locked or rusted or is it just stuck in gear? I had a D2350 that periodically would stick in second gear. The fix was removing the cover and gearshift. I could then access the gears and pop it free. It then worked well until it decided to stick again. This...

If the engine is turning over it could be fuel or it could be air starvation. Clean or replace your air filter. Make sure the air path to the intake manifold is clear. From there I'd check the fuel shutoff solenoid. It should be in the fuel line between the tank and the injection pump.

If your tractor is as old as mine was there is really no glow plug light. My tractor had a voltage dropping resistor on the dash behind a cover with holes in it. It was supposed to glow red when glow plugs were energized but I never saw it glow. Start by checking to see if you get voltage to...

What is the battery voltage when you try to activate the starter? A bad battery can read proper voltage until a load is placed on it. After that check I'd clean and tighten connections at the battery as seville suggested. Don't forget to trace the ground wire to the frame so you can clean and...

By all means make sure you're getting power to the glow plugs, then check the plugs themselves. White smoke on start indicates moisture. It may be just condensation or it may be something more serious.

It may be heat related. The tractor works harder when using the PTO and mowing than it does just running the backhoe.

I'd go back to the battery terminal issue. Is the cable intact or is it corroded under the new terminal? If so I suggest a new cable not just terminal. Remove the cables and clean battery posts and inside the connectors thoroughly. Put back on battery and tighten securely. If you can move...

Remove cables from battery. Have battery load tested. Clean battery posts and cables. Inspect cables for breaking down. Replace cables on battery and tighten securely. If you can move them they're not secure. Follow ground lead to frame. Clean and tighten the connection. Now we start...

I had a Mitsubishi D2350 for several years. You do NOT want to run out of fuel. Bleeding the air on that tractor was a multi step process and had to be done in order. I don't remember all the bleed points but I think there were three. One may have been near the filter to ensure it had fuel...

I've never seen a TC 30. That said I had trouble accessing the hydraulic pump bolts on my old Mitsubishi tractor. I purchased a ratcheting box end wrench for the job. It worked great for the purpose!

Pull the output side of the fuel pump and route it into a container. Crank the engine to see if you get a strong steady flow. Some do, some don't - even brand new ones.

I'm not sure it's good for your chipper to just slam it down. There should be a valve between your legs or feet which controls the rate of drop of the three point. When you tell the three point to lower it will lower whether the tractor is running or not. It lowers by gravity not hydraulic power.

Disconnect the battery cable as this thing is wired hot from somewhere. Remove the exposed nut on the button. Remove the button and cover from the joystick control. The button should stay more or less in place while you pull the sleeve off. You can then disconnect the wires from the button...

If your original top link worked before you installed Pat's you'll need one about two inches longer as Pat's sets the connection point on the arms back about two inches. I needed a new top link as well as a longer driveshaft on my mower. Beyond that Pat's is great.

I don't know the Briggs engine. I've had a similar issue with a similar size Kohler for years. It turned out to be the vacuum operated fuel pump. Disconnect the output of the pump. Put a short piece of hose on it to direct it into a can then crank the engine. If little or no fuel comes out...

If unused for several years the crankcase seal could be dried out and leaky, or it could have just failed on its own. My old Echo chainsaw did that. If it is really hard to pull at first it could be flooded. Instead of three pumps on the primer button try zero pumps. There's a balance and...

LS manufactures for New Holland (among others). Check out the suggestion from Eagle1.

The LA211 loader is the oem loader accessory for that tractor. If your are fortunate enough to find one you will need the complete assembly as you have none of it. You can also add an after market loader like Koyker if you're up to it and have the shop facilities. Be prepared to pay upwards...

JWR nailed it pretty well. In one photo you are pointing to the hydraulic pump. On some tractors the hydraulic pump needs primed after a fluid change but that does not prevent the tractor from starting, it only prevents the hydraulics from working. Engine oil pressure is not connected to the...

Instead of worrying about this company decide what you really want to do. Batteries will be required if you want to run it off the grid. If you are on the grid many electric utilities will allow you to feed them excess power (and you get paid for it) during the day and continue to run your...

You say you replaced plugs, plural. Are you sure both cylinders are firing and running? Your symptoms sound like my Craftsman mower when one cylinder wasn't working.

Disconnect a fuel line near the tank to be sure you get good flow from the tank. Sometimes there's crud buildup which prevents fuel from flowing freely. After ensuring good flow bleed the air from the system normally.

Bleed the fuel system. If there is air in the fuel system the tractor won't run properly. There may be a manufacturer recommended sequence. Follow it.

If the battery terminals are clean and the connections are tight (I'd confirm this) and the starter does not engage it's possible one of your safety switches is not satisfied. Generally these are the PTO, clutch, and seat - sometimes neutral as well.

I'd start by making sure I had good fuel flow from the tank. Disconnect a line from the tank before the fuel filter and see if you have good flow from the tank. Sometimes crud or algae will build up in there preventing good flow. That could have initially clogged your filter. If you...

Low oil pressure may be a failing oil pump but they don't usually fail. It could be a weak spring on the oil pressure relief valve. With that number of hours I would not think the bearings could be that worn already.

I like to start at the beginning. Remove and clean battery cable ends and battery terminals. Replace the cables and tighten securely. If you can move them they're not tight. Follow the ground lead to the frame. Clean and tighten. Charge the battery. If it starts all is good. If not we...

If I want tractor info my first stop is usually tractordata.com

Check or try to acquire the owner manual. I believe that tractor has a lift for the mowing deck (whether installed or not) and the three point at the rear. See if there's a selector to choose one or the other. Also, the valve below the seat controls how fast the three point implement lowers...

The sub switch can be the switch located on any accessory which uses power. My Mitsubishi had a work light on the right rear fender. It had its own switch on the light itself. I suspect the sub switch designator would be for something like that.

I've got one. Be sure to lube the front wheel "bearings" on a regular basis or they'll wear out. They are actually bushings not bearings. I replaced mine with bearings off eBay. Mine has the standard transmission with a Dana Spicer rear end. One seal started leaking. There is no way to...

If you're seeking a source for hydraulic cylinders (or repair) check with a local hydraulic shop. They will have catalogs and know what's available based on your cylinder and not the tractor.

Unless you purchased the tractor new a prior owner could have made any type of modification. One of the wires on the switch should come directly from the battery. The switch is then used to apply power to the other devices as needed. The starter would be the spring loaded momentary contact on...

Slow or weak hydraulics are sometimes caused by having the three point in the full up position. Be sure yours is not quite full up and see if anything changes. If that was the source of the problem a slight adjustment to the rock shaft is in order. The stabilizers may be able to lift the rear...

If your three point is in the full up position and your rock shaft is not properly adjusted you could be running in bypass mode. Move your three point lever a bit off of full up and see if that helps.

Remove battery cables and thoroughly clean battery posts and cable connectors. Inspect cable at connectors to ensure they are in good condition. Replace cables and tighten securely. If you can move them they're not tight. Follow ground lead to frame. Clean and tighten that connection well...

LS is a well known South Korean brand. Many of their tractors are sold under the New Holland label though I believe some Case models are LS as well. If the price is right the tractor should be a fantastic addition for your friend.

You don't name your operating system. I use Ad Aware (free) on my Windows system.

What color smoke? If it's black clean the air filter and ensure you have a clear air path from there to the intake manifold.

Your Ford probably came with and has been using an ethylene glycol based anti freeze. If you only wish to add anti freeze you should use something compatible with ethylene glycol. If you are draining and flushing the system any type anti freeze should work, just remember what you used for...

Our local "Six States Driveline" shop fabricates large U Bolts. You may have nearby shops that do the same.

It does sound like timing. Timing should not change from sitting but as the tractor is run the fiber piece in the distributor that activates the points does wear over time. This will alter the timing as the dwell changes. Check your point gap.

A dead short would read zero ohms or very close to it. with your 24.7 K ohm reading the steady current draw on your battery would be half of a milliamp or one half of one thousandth of an amp. If the key is off your hour meter should not be running but it may take a slight draw to retain the...

bmaverick gave some really good instructions but the bottom line will be your specific jump pack and the charger. Many trickle chargers are for lead acid batteries. Current production jump packs are lithium batteries. The two are not compatible even if both are twelve volts. Do a little...

The SJOO would be a 300 volt wire while the SOO would be 600 volt. The W indicates it's for wet locations. I'd check the LED current draw with an ammeter. The wattage rating tends to be for incandescent equivalent lights and may be four times the actual power consumed. If it's on a tractor...

Try replacing the main fuse with a twelve volt light bulb. That will limit current so it won't blow while you look for the dead short causing the problem. The bulb will limit current so you won't be able to run anything electrical but should help the troubleshooting process to locate the short.

If the starter spins the engine it's doing its job. For rough running look into your timing or something else in the ignition - points, condenser, distributor cap, wires, etc.

Does fuel flow freely from the tank? A partial blockage may not allow normal running but over time enough may seep by to allow it to run for awhile. Does your vented fuel cap vent or is it clogged?

Try a local diesel repair shop. Many Mitsubishi tractors used a standard injector - Nippon Denso, I believe.

The glow plugs I've seen have generally been on the right side of the engine about where you'd expect to find spark plugs on a gasoline engine.

They do look like a type of crow foot wrench but those usually have hex shaped openings to hopefully reduce rounding of the fitting. Perhaps these are an extended crow foot.

I suspect the tubing size varies by the make and model of tractor.

I had my Mitsubishi injectors rebuilt at a local diesel repair shop - they were a standard NGK model. You can contact NGK on line and they'll tell you the appropriate glow plug.

Remove both cylinders. Take them to a local hydraulic shop for rebuild or replacement.

2700 my be the "red line" for rpm, not the optimal PTO speed. I think 2000 to 2400 would be more appropriate for PTO. I had a D2350 but unfortunately (for you) I let the manuals go with the tractor. There is a Mitsubishi forum on this site. You might try checking there.

You need a virus and ad blocker. I use a free one called Ad Aware. I have a Windows system and use Firefox with Duckduckgo for a search engine. Check out Ad Aware at Adaware: The Best FREE Antivirus & ad block

Make sure you have no excess drag on the blades, spindles, or belts. Check the brake used to stop the blades from spinning. Does the engine have one cylinder or two? If two cylinders are you sure both are running?

You could start by playing with the adjustment. You should have about an inch of pedal travel before meeting some resistance of the clutch disengaging.

You need to play with it a bit and get to know your scoop. I divide the number of cups by two to get the number of scoops then play from there to get the desired strength of brew. This will vary somewhat by your particular coffee maker. I'm currently using four scoops for ten or eleven cups...

Either you have a high resistance somewhere in your wiring and the voltage drop is there as the glow plugs have a very low resistance or one or more glow plugs have failed. Glow plugs may fail open but sometimes they fail as a dead short. One or more may be shorted internally. The high...

Call before you dig.

The measured resistance sill be very low - perhaps half an ohm. The resistance in your ohmmeter leads can be that much. Put a voltmeter on one of the glow plugs with the other lead grounded. Activate the plugs and see if you get a reading and what the reading is. It should be about 10.5...

If you are having trouble with the entire gauge assembly a replacement MAY be in order. Your MF dealer would be the place to start for that. If you can easily remove the assembly though you may wish to start there. Some of them use printed circuits instead of discrete wiring. The traces can...

I had a Koyker loader on my last tractor. It was a great loader but they ain't cheap. Selling your tractor and getting one equipped with a loader may be a better way to go financially and hassle wise.

The first trick is to FIND the loader. You would be well advised to follow RJ's advice. It will save you a lot of headaches and added expense. The dealer may make a terrific deal on this tractor because he may have trouble selling it without a loader. Shop elsewhere.

You could have a stuck ring. It may free up with a bit of running time. If not you'll need to disassemble the engine. Before you tear the carburetor apart try emptying the fuel tank and refilling with a 50/50 mixture of Sea Foam and gasoline. Start the engine and let it run. If it will only...

It may be possible to have them rebuilt. Check into a local diesel repair shop, not the tractor repair shop.

All good suggestions above and good questions to ask yourself. On top of all that you should be aware that unless you get a tractor prior to 2014 in all probability it will have an on board computer and a diesel particulate filter if it's over 25 horsepower. This equals added complexity and...

The method of installation you select may be determined by the type roofing you select. The metal shingles may be the best choice but the cost can be prohibitive. Standing seam would probably be your best value and give the least trouble in the long run.

Shoot an email to NGK. They'll tell you what works.

It could be your browser settings or a need to update your browser. I use Firefox and Duckduckgo and have had no issues.

Replace the thermostat. You can easily check a thermostat by watching it open and close in a pan of water heating on the stove.

You could also try a web search for repair facilities for tachometers and speedometers.

I had a gravel driveway so I got Edge Tamers. They worked great!! I had the driveway paved in asphalt and continued using the Edge Tamers. I figured replacing them would be cheaper than replacing or repairing the bucket. I don't think they're really needed on my now several year old asphalt...

Have you checked the air filter and air path? What makes you think it "seems to be getting fuel"?

The 2501 comes with only the outer filter. The inner filter is recommended for extremely dusty areas. My local mechanic told me it is unnecessary in this area. I added the inner filter anyhow. If the outer filter gets a hole or anything it adds a degree of protection. Part number may not be...

It does sound as though your starter is shot. Take it to a local starter / generator repair shop to diagnose. They may be able to tell you what went wrong and get a better replacement than you'll find on eBay or Amazon. It will probably be less expensive than John Deere and possibly even...

Seville009 has given some really good information. Besides a slipping fan belt you may have worn out brushes in the alternator. Worn brushes may allow the alternator to put out the correct voltage when there's no load but drop under load - like charging a battery.

I don't know your tractor but it could be your shift linkage. The tractor may be in two gears at once. Something could have slipped or broken inside the transmission itself.

With the tractor at a dead stop you can try depressing the clutch and moving the lever. If it still won't move you can try moving the tractor forward or back a bit then do it again. If there is pressure against the gears they may not slide easily. Do not force it. If you do manage to get it...

Before removing the tank you could try other means to clear the block. Can you shove a wire into the tank through the fuel exit port? Can you remove the top from the tank and see the exit port to look at the blockage? Could you put some air pressure to the tank to force the block on through?

You may wish to consider the effective weight on the loader versus the load limit on the front of the tractor. You could possibly break the frame or front axles. Remember the loader places a load on the tractor when it's empty so you have significant weight on the front before lifting a thing.

If it's brand new and not right it's a dealer problem, not yours. If you do anything to fix it the dealer may be able to void the warranty on the loader.

If hard starting is not an issue I'd go with 15W-40. I live in southeastern WA and that's what I use all year.

I had a Mitsubishi D2350 two wheel drive. It had a Koyker 120 loader on it. It was a good fit and a great loader. Unfortunately these tractors have the bad habit of breaking front axles. I don't think they were designed for even the extra weight of the loader let alone what it might lift...

You'd be amazed at the deals you can sometimes score on eBay or Amazon. I've gotten stainless steel ball valves for about what I would expect to pay for PVC.

I guess anything near the front of the engine could be leaking. Clean it up the best you can, start the engine and try to see where the oil comes from. It may be coming from the front seal on the crankshaft or near the front of the oil pan. A light dusting of talcum powder may help you track it.

Try a local diesel repair shop. Some actually work on tractors for the local tractor dealers. Mitsubishi / Satoh used very standard parts.

Are you using your glow plugs? Are they getting power? Are they good? The symptoms sound like you may not be pre warming with the glow plugs. A dirty air filter is another possibility. What color is the smoke?

I replaced the ignition switch on my D2350. I don't recall it having a color code. There were small letters by the terminals. One wire coming in is always hot. Use your voltmeter to find it. You can then touch it to each of the other wires to see what happens - glow plugs, starter, etc...

Check the air cleaner and path from there to the intake manifold. An inadequate volume of air will cause black smoke due to incomplete combustion.

Be sure the tractor is completely stopped and depress the clutch.

Go online to NGK. They can recommend the correct NGK plug for your tractor. You may then order replacement plugs online.

If there is a dent anywhere along the outer shaft it may permit the shaft to slide in and out to a point but prevent movement beyond a certain point. If you have the protective sleeve over the shaft you may not see the dent. Without the sleeve it may not be real obvious. By all means contact...

A blown fuse would be a cheap fix but I don't think that's it. It is possible you still have moisture somewhere that's not evaporated. If your tractor is run by a computer this could be worse than you imagine. Most tractors can take sitting out in the rain but I have no idea what direction...

Old and Tired nailed it. You can adjust the angle of Pat's relative to the ends of your arms. Note that as the spread of the arms changes so does the angle of attachment. The implement pins normally go through a rotating ball allowing proper alignment. The bolts on Pat's allow this...

It's been a long time but I seem to remember a procedure for flashing the regulator to start it working when you install a new one. I don't remember how I used to do it but if you're lucky that may be the only problem.

Your local shops may be unable to rebuild your starter but may be able to locate a new after market one at a reasonable price.

The starter does not align with the flywheel. Activating the starter spins it and centrifugal force throws a small gear forward to engage the flywheel which then rotates the engine. If you do not have the correct starter it may not be throwing this gear to the point of engagement. Compare the...

If the starter spins with a rapid whirring sound and the engine does not turn over your problem could well be connected to the starter. When the starter spins it should force the Bendix to engage the flywheel turning the engine over. If the Bendix is gummed up it may not move freely to engage...

Use a voltmeter to see if you're even getting voltage to the glow plugs. If you're getting power check to see if they're open or burned out. You should also check your air filter and air path to the intake manifold.

I like the home made cab.

You could get one for an older Chevrolet but you'd need to fabricate mounts for it. You may also need to change the pulley to get the correct speed.

Check the position of your three point lever. If it's in the full up position it can greatly slow the hydraulics by dumping pressure from the relief valve. Generally that means your rock shaft needs adjusted.

What viscosity oil are you using? If you're using the typical 15W-40 you might try 5W-40 for winter operation.

Purchase or borrow an OBD2 sensor reader. They usually have an option to clear codes. If you don't want to buy one head for the local Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, or other parts outlet. Many will reset your code free.

Have you cleaned battery terminals and connectors? Don't forget the ground strap to the frame. Do you have any corrosion on the cables at the battery? What method was used to test the battery? It should have been a load test not just a battery voltage check. Check the voltage reading when...

I love my L2501. It handles my five foot rotary mower with ease. I bought it to avoid the DPF issues. It's quite reliable, always ready to go when I am. The only drawback I've noted is weight - it's kind of light. I put a weight box on the back to compensate for that rather than filling the...

Measure the length and width of your battery box. Determine the height of battery you could put in there including posts. Make a note of the location of positive and negative posts relative to battery placement. Get the highest CCA (cold cranking amps) battery you can fit into that space.

After checking into options and using a wireless provider for several years I went with a DSL phone line from Ziply That's the current name of our local hard wired phone company. I don't have a wired phone, just the DSL service. The service is about $50 a month plus $10 per month to rent the...

I generally start my search for stuff like that on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1311&_nkw=kohler+command+ch20+carburetor&_sacat=0

It sounds like you're having problems with one of the safety switches.

Just for something to do, have you checked the valve adjustment? Have you determined what kind of voltage you're getting at the glow plugs?

It appears I spoke too soon. There are problems known to the Nest thermostat which I'm experiencing. Although Goodman won't tell me what 'stats work with their system they have both of them listed on their website. Nest is one of only two known to use the same communication protocol as...

Former secretary to local ABATE (A Brotherhood Against Totalitarian Enactments) Chapter. Chapter folded. Wife put out a newsletter and called it Roadworthy. I hijacked the name.

It sounds like the clutch linkage popped loose but the tractor brand and model would be helpful along with the other info requested.

Worry about the battery height. The post arrangement can be important depending on how long your cables are.

The system does indeed have an outside temperature sensor. I do not have any variable speed motors, I think they're fixed two speed motors on the model I chose - it's simpler. I do have electric backup heat strips. The wi-fi may indeed be required, I hadn't thought of that. I can't believe...

Background: Last spring I had a new Goodman heat pump installed. It works well, thanks. The installer installed a Google Nest Learning Thermostat saying that's what it takes to control the energy saving features of my new heat pump. The thermostat has options to turn off the learning...

How to secure your tractor on a trailer is a function of the size of the tractor. Be sure your trailer and tow vehicle have adequate capacity to start with. Chocks are not sufficient for holding your tractor in place and I don't use them. I'll but the loader on the trailer deck and use chains...

Find out who the actual insurer is. United is a real insurance company. Make sure this Christian Medshare is not some fly by night seeking your money. Christian is a term commonly used to infer caring and reliability. Scammers use it, too, because they know that. Do some research before...

I got a killer deal on a Harbor Freight welder. One of the switches broke and they don't sell repair parts. I found a switch of the same physical dimensions and electrical configuration on eBay. Go surfing!!

It sounds as though the first shop replaced the generator with one which was not the equivalent of the original. It is possible the original needed only brushes. I'd go to the first shop and see if they can provide the proper generator. It is possible when they replaced the generator the new...

I don't know your setup. Where I used to work they had a rope secured on both ends on fixed ladders. The belaying device was attached to the climbing belt. When placed on the rope it would basically tag along as one would climb. It did the same during descent. The only distance to drop...

I don't know LS but "back in the day" some of the instruments did not power directly from twelve volts. There was a lower voltage regulator (think five or six volts) in line to feed instruments. It may be part of the instrument panel and not shown as a separate component.

You really have to work out the gearing for your particular tractor and terrain. When I had a tractor with a standard transmission I'd set the tractor engine speed where I wanted it to run and set the gearing that worked. Sometimes the ride was kind of rough. My new tractor is an HST and it's...

I saw a blurb awhile back for an electric tractor in the 20-25 hp range priced around $20,000. That was about what an equivalent diesel was going for at the time. That doesn't sound too bad until you consider the battery is probably good for about ten years and a replacement (if one is...

Go through the brakes and get them working properly first. They're a lot cheaper than splitting the tractor and if they're not right now you'll need to fix them even if you do split the tractor.

If you can access the bolt on the front end of the crankshaft and the transmission is in neutral you should be able to rotate the crankshaft. You could have someone depress the clutch when attempting to rotate the engine. It should not be terribly difficult to rotate.

Take the pieces of your old cable to an auto parts store and see if they can match it. You may have better luck at NAPA than Auto Zone or O'Reilly's.

I managed to rip a chain through the plastic ring. I just pushed it back through the slot and it's been staying there fine. If you must have a new attachment point you may be able to drill a hole through the bell and secure the chain with a bolt and washer or a carabiner.

I haven't reloaded twelve gauge lately, it's cheaper to buy shells. It is barely worthwhile to reload .410. I mostly shoot pellet rifles now and the price of pellets keeps increasing.

If you didn't get an arc when disconnecting things be sure you connected the proper lead to the positive terminal. Also check to be sure you didn't inadvertently ground the positive terminal against something before reconnecting the negative terminal.

Wife has stage 4 breast cancer. It has metastasized. She has had no surgeries, is taking Verzenio twice a day, and at this point tumors are shrinking. We don't have a prognosis but I'm grateful for what appear to be positive results. She's 75 and at this point it's going better than...

I would measure the battery space - length, width, and height. Allowing for the terminals I'd get the biggest battery that would fit into that space. Make note of locations of the positive and negative terminals, cable length may only allow them to connect one way. As far as accessing...

I'd start with the fuse, too. The outlet may only have power with the key in the on position so try that, too.

You need to determine how small is small and what the other purposes for the tractor will be. It sounds as though this will be your only tractor. How big is the farm? What other tractor jobs are planned? How much snow to you expect? What other implements will the tractor be handling?

The best way to fix a problem is generally not by throwing money at it. The preferred method is to assess what's wrong, figure out why it's wrong and fix that. You share no information on what's really happening at the moment and what you're doing to fix it. Do you have glow plugs? Are they...

There is no reason not to use generic batteries. Of course they need to fit and note the terminal locations, voltage, and necessary amperage but beyond that a battery is pretty much a battery. Those are old fashioned lead acid batteries.

I ran into that issue trying to redo the PTO dreveline on my mower. I took it to a drive line shop. They replaced the rear yoke now all is good.

In addition to watching the engine oil quantity keep an eye on the hydraulic fluid level. If it's going down while your engine oil is rising that answers your question. The hydraulic pump on many tractors drives off the crankshaft. If a seal goes bad they can start losing hydraulic oil into...

I don't know exactly what you're talking about but will give it a try. Pull it apart as far as you can. Spray on a liberal application of penetrating oil onto the exposed surfaces hoping to get some into the area not moving. Work it in and out a few times. Let it sit overnight. Push it all...

It doesn't seem to take much to keep horses in though I did have to carry a ground wire from post to post as well as the hot wires (one high, one low) due to extremely dry soil not providing a decent ground. As far as the dogs go, forget it. The fence didn't stop our lab and they have much...

If your dealer has that little knowledge you're unlikely to get any support in the repair department either.

Masseyrider poses a good question. I would expect to replace the starter after twenty years but not two. I suspect other issues if the starter is failing that soon.

If you've got the correct starter count the teeth on the gear on the old starter and on the new one. They should be the same. You could also try comparing shaft length and gear position between the two.

You can do a you tube search for bucket level indicator. There are several home made ones which should give you ideas. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bucket+level+indicator+for+kubota

I didn't like McAfee several years ago - I don't recall why. I went to Ad Aware by Lavasoft - German, I think. The price is right (free) and so far it's done the job.

Is your hydraulic fluid at the proper level? What's the position of your three point control? If it is in the full up position that can slow the front loader. If that is the cause there's a simple adjustment to fix it. After these it's possibly a filter, screen, or suction line problem.

With eleven volts to the coil when the ignition switch is on you probably don't have a ballast resistor in the circuit. You may have a weak battery or bad contact at the battery. Clean and tighten cables. Don't overlook the frame ground. Battery voltage should be about 12.6. Check the gap...

You can test individual switches with an ohmmeter if you can find them. As Jayhawk said though the problem could be mechanical. My problem was the rod upon which the seat pivots came loose on one end causing an intermittent problem.

The mechanic is probably correct, it's time for a computer reset and possibly software update. This should all happen under warranty but going 65 miles out of your way to have it done is not desirable. If you continue running the tractor in that condition you risk more major repairs which may...

Lack of a ballast resistor could indeed have damaged the coil. If you have no ballast resistor and no provision for one by all means get a coil which doesn't require one. Just make sure it fits your mounting area.

The rate of drop adjustment, when closed, can prevent the three point arms from lowering. It is frequently between the operator's feet. Check your manual.

It's a pretty common tractor and has many parts in common with case and farmall models. I think Ford and New Holland merged at some point. The engine in that tractor is Shibaura. TractorData.com New Holland TC48DA tractor information

You could even use Lucas lithium grease. I wouldn't recommend anything with molybdenum disulfide. It's too slick and the bearings can slide around the axle instead of rotating wearing a flat spot on one side.

My guess would be an algae build up. Additives will kill the algae but over time the sludge will probably migrate to the outflow of the tank. You should probably drain the tank then clean it as best you can. An extension nozzle rigged on your shop vac might do the trick or at least remove...

I agree with Diesel68, they're probably an add on my the previous owner. My King Kutter doesn't have them. I do adjust sway on the lift arms so the mower can't move very far off center. I do this with the deck partially raised to allow me to easily move it to the extent of its travel both ways.

Check under the mower to see if one of the blades is folded or broken. That will throw things out of balance and it will shake - a lot!! If a blade is folded and jammed you may have to extend it manually with a pry bar or something.

You may have a slip clutch in the line or your could have a shear bolt. Turn the drive shaft by hand to see if the input to the gearbox turns. If the input shaft on the gearbox turns and the blades don't your problem's at that end. If you turn the PTO shaft and the gearbox input shaft doesn't...

There may be a clutch safety switch as well, Kubota uses one. Disconnect your fuel line as close to the tank as you can. See if you get a steady flow out of the tank. Do you have good flow into the fuel filter? Have you bled the air out of your fuel lines? How's the air cleaner and air path...

You could check in with a local hydraulic shop. They could probably suggest a less expensive substitute.

On many tractors the left and right brakes can be activated separately via two separate pedals. There are only brakes on the rear wheels. There is usually a link to tie the two pedals together. It is also possible your differential lock is jammed. Drive is normally on the right wheel and the...

If you have a two cylinder engine be sure both cylinders are running. If they are you might try adding "Sea Foam" to your fuel. Choking to keep it going indicates you may not be getting enough fuel. The Sea Foam will help clean things up. It's also possible your fuel pump is not putting out...

I suggest checking in with your New Holland dealer to look at a parts manual. Location will vary by tractor and may not be readily accessible though it could be a common problem with your model.

The proper mower for you depends on your budget and the expected results. A five foot rotary mower will cut most stuff but the results won't look like a finish mower. It will look like a mowed field. I've been using mine for over fifteen years behind a two wheel drive tractor with your...

You probably have a bad neutral detection switch. You could bypass it by jumping at the solenoid but if it was in gear the tractor would jump forward and continue moving if the engine started. This could be bad for whoever is jumping the solenoid - as in fatal. Try to check the neutral...

You should probably be using an ethylene glycol base antifreeze - the old standby permanent antifreeze. Peak is a brand name. If you don't know what's in the tractor now it's a good time to replace all the antifreeze and the Peak will be fine. Drain and flush with distilled water as Robin...

My usual approach to starting problems is to remove both cables from the battery. Clean battery terminals and clean cable connectors. Inspect connectors for corrosion on the cable itself. Add water to the battery if it's low and if you have removable caps. Replace cables and tighten...

I have no schematic but does the tractor start and run normally? Do you have power to the fuse box? Is there a fusible link somewhere?

My guess would put the points in the distributor. That appears to be the distributor just to the left of the spark plug shown in the picture. The center position of the distributor cap should connect to the ignition coil.

If the mower has a two cylinder engine make sure both cylinders are running. If you have one dead cylinder the mower will still run but power will be greatly diminished.

I don't know what was done to add the Chevy alternator but normally everything is powered from the battery. The alternator's only job is to maintain the charge on the battery. Your old voltage regulator should be doing nothing. The wires would have gone to the old alternator to control it...

See how much voltage you're getting to the solenoid from the key switch. Sometimes the voltage drop is too great to activate it reliably. You may need to install a small relay activated by the ignition switch with the main part fed from an added fused lead from the battery.

For the old British bikes the common practice was to put grease into a pan and melt it in an oven. Put your new chain into the grease so it could penetrate. Remove chain from grease and wipe off excess grease. An O ring chain would be cool but wouldn't fit many of the older bikes - the links...

I needed a replacement switch for a Harbor Freight welder. They didn't sell them. After taking the dimensions I found some very close ones on eBay.

Charge the battery. Have it load tested. If it's fine put it into service. Start the tractor. Check battery voltage. If the tractor is charging it should read something over thirteen volts. You may have an extra load somewhere dragging the battery down, such as the glow plugs running all...

You could check with a local muffler shop for one about the same dimensions and weld the existing ends onto it. I did that once with an old Case tractor. Beyond that, I found a possibility on eBay: Muffler fits Ford 900 4130 801 4110 4000 4140 800 fits John Deere fits Satoh 197118247868 | eBay

If you're not a mechanic and a novice at repair perhaps you should start by telling what you've done to narrow it down to the solenoid. There are other potential reasons the starter may not energize. Having a voltmeter on hand is a great way to begin tracking down the problem. It could be...

Let's eliminate the easy stuff. Did you install the battery correctly - that is with the negative terminal to ground? Did you clean the posts and the connectors on the cables before installing them? Did you inspect the connectors and cables for corrosion? Tighten them securely - if you can...

Stick with Kubota's SUDT2. I don't think you'll find anything else that meets their criteria and the HST is very finicky about what fluid you use. If you use anything else your warranty will be void.

I never really thought about it. Thanks for researching it and sharing the info.

If that's what's happening the arc when the starter engages could be welding the contacts inside the solenoid together. You can't fix it, It is either defective or you need a heavier solenoid. Of course it's also possible you've got some shorted windings in the starter causing it to draw...

It will be a challenge keeping varmints out of any garage, good luck with that. Consider light insulation on the roof at least. If you do not insulate condensate will drip from various locations. You should also factor in the price of a concrete floor. You could do the floor in as asphalt...

Very cool!

What is the position of your three point lift lever? If it's in the full up position you can be running against the pressure relief valve and that will cause the bucket not to work well. Move the three point lever a bit away from the top limit and see if that helps. If that fixes the problem...

How many cylinders does it have? If it's two cylinder mower running on one cylinder that could cause the symptoms you're experiencing.

Your description of the problem isn't very clear to me. If the starter is energized all the time it may be the key switch or it could be the starter solenoid. You should have a voltmeter on hand for troubleshooting. A better description of your problem will probably result in steps to...

The clutch should be pretty easy to press for about the first inch then get noticeably harder. Adjust the clutch so this free play is about an inch. Normally you put the tractor into the gear you plan to use, you do not shift with the tractor in motion. The transmission and hydraulics share...

Starting fluid is not recommended for a diesel engine. A diesel starts by compression not with a spark and starting fluid will fire too soon in the engine rotation. Follow the operator manual to properly bleed the lines. The procedure varies by tractor model.

If it dies after a few minutes I'd check to make sure I have fuel flowing from the tank. Put a container under the hose and break the first connection after the tank outlet. See what the fuel flow looks like for five or ten seconds. It should flow freely. If you get a slow or feeble flow you...

My understanding is moly greases are great for sliding surfaces but you do not want to use moly grease on a roller or ball bearing - it's TOO slick and the bearing can slide on the surface instead of rotating.

The guys that put the trusses up for my car port had a rig with a hand cranked winch on each end of the truss. They put one end of the cable on the top of my 6 X 6 post and the other end on the truss - one for each end of the truss. They were then able to crank it into place. When the truss...

I don't know where you are but there's a really good starter shop in Kennewick.