Search results

Go online to Home Depot. They give dimensions on a number of different springs. I found some that worked for the recliner after one broke.

Your best bet might be to hire a neighbor to do the tilling. If the Ariens to which you refer is a garden tractor or large riding mower you may destroy the transaxle. Also, a plow does not break up the ground as much as a tiller does. There's also the reality of the physical effort required...

Check with a local auto paint supplier or body shop. Some primers are made to bond even to rusty areas.

They even sell the plastic guards on Amazon.

If you're using the correct hydraulic fluid and have the correct amount it may be a clogged screen (some tractors have them, some don't) or it could be a clogged or collapsed hydraulic filter. The pump rarely fails.

I know nothing about your mower. The transaxle may have leaked fluid. My mower uses 80W-90 gear oil, or at least that's what the old stuff smelled like. My transaxle has a filler port on top.

If the tractor has a standard transmission the PTO likely runs off the transmission not the hydraulics. It sounds like you've no hydraulic pressure. If you have plenty of fluid your pump may have lost its prime or the filter or screen may be plugged. Beyond that you may be looking at a new...

Montgomery Ward tells me it wasn't new recently. The 91 on the serial number may be the year made but I don't really know. The engine is probably Briggs and Stratton though Tecumseh was common back then, too. It is probably electric start and most likely twelve volt negative ground. Try to...

start with the basics. Clean battery terminals and cable connectors. Reinstall tightly. If you can move them they're not tight. Check for corrosion on cable ends. Follow ground lead to frame. Clean and tighten. Monitor voltage at battery while cranking. If it drops to ten volts or so have...

I needed a new Bendix for a Mitsubishi tractor. I went to a local shop and they'd sell me a Bendix but for just a little more they provided a whole new starter. The owner knew where to look and what to look for and got an exact replacement though not Mitsubishi brand. It was made in Mexico...

There's nothing magic about a John Deere battery - they don't make them. Get the highest amp hour battery that will fit in the space allotted. Note which way the terminals are configured - locations of plus and minus. Interstate is a good brand but not the only brand. The top end Walmart...

If you want to know how many wires should go to your specific alternator you need a schematic diagram as it can vary pretty widely. The minimum is obviously one but there can be a whole lot more. You really need a voltmeter to check the battery voltage before and after starting. A resting...

Springs do stretch (or compress) over time and weaken. You may wish to inquire with Husky whether they have a program for recalibrating their torque wrenches.

Have you checked the owner's manual? My Kubota L2501 recommends ethylene glycol based antifreeze. I personally prefer to buy straight antifreeze and mix with distilled water. It's a lot less expensive than the pre mixed stuff. You definitely want distilled water not tap water to prevent...

Thanks to all for the suggestions. Since the driveway is only a couple years old I'll get the contractor out here to take a look. I do think it's additional settling and compacting of the underlying lakebed causing the problem, though.

Thank you for the quick response. My driveway is only about 350 feet long and the cracks are still fairly small - none over a quarter inch wide. I just thought I'd start on them before they get worse. I do get to Spokane from time to time as it's only 150 miles or so away. Thanks for that...

I live on an old lake bed, it was a lake about 14,000 years ago. I have an asphalt driveway. A bed of gravel was laid then run over with a vibrator roller and again a week later. It's settling anyhow and the asphalt is cracking. I suspect melted tar poured into the cracks is the proper way...

Check a schematic for your tractor. Some instruments may be powered with five volts not twelve.

There were different models made in England as well as the USA. Many parts are still available. Ferguson actually invented the three point and at one time was in a partnership with Henry Ford. That may be why your tractor resembles a Ford tractor. I suspect ie't actually the Ford that...

Shoot off an email to NGK. They can recommend the correct glow plug. I did that with a Mitsubishi tractor and learned I'd been using the wrong glow plug for fifteen years. The wrong ones were in the tractor when I bought it used.

If you're within their size limits the HF threader will probably serve the purpose for your limited use. They are a hand tool so they do have the lifetime guarantee. I believe HF even sells replacement dies. The dies may not be guaranteed. As with any tapping or threading job a liberal use...

I find their information incredibly informative and Peter is very open to making corrections if you find erroneous information on the site. He is personable and responsive.

You may wish to investigate Pat's Quick Hitch. It only provides quick connection to the three point arms. You use your regular top link with it.

I don't understand the question. If your glow plugs are fed via a relay and the relay doesn't activate that can certainly prevent glow plug operation. On the other hand if you're asking whether you can add a relay to prevent their operation that can be done, too.

Your solenoid may be defective or it may not be getting enough power to close completely. Check the voltage going to the solenoid when you try to start. It should be getting between eleven and twelve volts. If it's getting full voltage you may have a weak solenoid. If it's not getting...

You bought the tractor new last year? It has 35 hours? It should be on warranty. Check with the dealer for an opinion. It may be a common problem with a simple fix. If more involved you may not wish to risk losing the warranty. As far as a battery tender, I should probably own one but my...

I had a D2350. My problem was sticking in second. I found I could easily access things by removing the top of the transmission where the gearshift went in. I think there were four bolts and the assembly came up. From there it was obvious which gears were doing what.

I admire your perseverance. I started a set myself but after a couple years of intermittent starts I just bought the actual Edge Tamer. Besides saving the driveway it should increase the life of the bucket.

Obviously something is better than nothing. Try isolating the appliance from a solid surface which can resonate. Try a sheet of polyfoam insulation between the appliance and a solid surface. You could even try a piece of carpet on a thick carpet pad. You want dead air in the wall but the wall...

Welcome to TBN. Determine what antifreeze base is required. "Back in the day" it was always ethylene glycol based. Now some of it is propylene glycol based as it is supposed to be less toxic. The differences between brands are generally just colorings or additives. Prestone and some others...

A fully charged battery IS a good start but you should determine the condition of your battery. Monitor the voltage when you engage the starter. If it drops to, say, ten volts at a minimum you should have it load tested. Clean the terminals and inside the connectors. Replace and tighten...

Depending on wire diameter you may be able to bend a piece of music wire into the correct shape. Home Depot and Ace sell packages of different spring types as well. Think outside the box.

I question whether you can get 25 hp from a 60.23 cc engine. That's only about 3.7 cubic inches. If you have the old spring you may be able to get something close at a lawn mower repair shop then rebend ends as needed.

Hi, and welcome to TBN. This may be a dumb question but does your tractor have a separate reservoir for steering fluid? Many tractors use the same hydraulic fluid for everything.

If a car is self driving does it have a driver? Who really gets killed - the supposed driver, the passenger, a pedestrian, or an unsuspecting motorist in another car? Was the car in the original post self driving or did it just have an inattentive looky loo for a driver?

You may do okay if you can find a used loader but a new one would be more than you're paying for the tractor. A good rule of thumb would be if you'll be wanting a loader don't buy a tractor without one. Many loaders have the control valve and mount right on them.

Before you go too crazy you may check with Valley Power. I had a Mitsubishi D2350 at one point and it seems like for that model some came with two cylinder engines others had four. There may be a four cylinder that would bolt right in or they may have a head.

If the shaft seal on your hydraulic pump develops a leak the usual result is an overfilled crankcase. You may be able to replace the seal, have the pump rebuilt in a hydraulic shop, or replace the pump. The squeal may be the sick pump complaining or it may be something else entirely.

I'd start by considering the shaft seal on my hydraulic pump. You may be able to just replace the seal, have the pump rebuilt by a hydraulic shop, or replace the pump. That should take care of the hydraulic oil in the crankcase. I don't know about the squeal unless the pump is complaining.

That's actually a good reminder. I purchased a new weed whacker several years ago when my old one would only run a minute or so. Later I learned about in tank fuel filters. Yep, mine was clogged. Replacements were readily available so now I have two weed whackers.

Yep, the fuel is probably cold. That happens in the winter. Your fuel should be winterized. If not and the temperature gets too cold it can cease to flow.

You need to know the power rating of your heater in order to select an appropriate wire size. Of course you'll want to add a fuse or circuit breaker as well for protection. You may want a contactor or relay to ensure it only has power when your tractor is on and even then it will probably put...

Read your manual then talk to one of the mechanics. The tractor itself may determine whether glow plug use is required and if so how long. A salesman would not be my first choice for specific mechanical information.

Some people lay a concrete mow strip under where the fence will be. The required width would be determined by how close your mower can cut to the fence.

Before dashing to the shop with the injectors make sure your air filter and air path are clear.

Hi, and welcome to TBN. Glow plugs I've seen are near the top of the engine, frequently on the right side. They look kind of like spark plugs but don't have the heavy cable like spark plugs. Put a voltmeter on the connector at the top of the plug and ground the other lead. When the glow plug...

Be advised - if you touch a good glow plug after putting power to it it will be HOT!! Touch quickly, do not linger.

I'm glad his glow plug light works. Put a voltmeter on a glow plug and see if it's actually getting power. If you're getting power to the glow plugs try testing them individually to see if they have continuity. They should read about 0.5 ohms each. If they're open they're no good. Some can...

The message appears clear to me. That toilet is for urine only for whatever reason. Perhaps there is no septic system on that one, only a leach field.

Welcome to TBN!! You may not need to identify the starter. I had really good luck just taking my Mitsubishi tractor starter to a local shop that rebuilds starters. He got with his catalog and sold me the correct starter for a very reasonable price. Of course it was not made by Mitsubishi but...

As I understand the post you're looking at sinking $10,000 give or take into a twenty year old tractor. A better route would possibly to find the same model tractor and purchase it. If you have yours fixed you may be able to get the repair price out of it when you sell or trade - MAYBE. It's...

I suggest having a spare valve cover gasket on hand or be sure the dealer has one in stock - just in case.

You may have trouble getting anything out of the Nevada dealer as you have no paperwork to prove you ever dealt with him. You can try to sue him either as a civil action or in small claims court but if he denies having sold you the tractor you can't prove he did. The tractor may even be stolen...

You've not given much info about your tractors. If you have an HST transmission on the MX, Kubota is pretty specific about sticking with SUDT2. As far as the Ford backhoe goes, that fluid just indicates it's a hydraulic fluid. If you have a gear transmission it may be lacking additives...

Safety wire comes in different diameters. Is the new safety wire the same size as the old one?

Welcome to TBN. The fuse which loads down your glow plug circuit is obviously powering some additional current carrying circuit enough to drag you voltage down to the point it won't allow the tractor to start. Given the condition of that original wire I suggest a thorough cleaning and...

If you think some parts these days are questionable you should probably be wondering about the source of the complete unit as well. I would personally buy the complete master cylinder as you know all the parts will be the correct size and you should have a working unit. If not you can return...

Check in with a local hydraulic shop. They'll probably have or easily obtain the correct seals. They may do the whole job for only slightly more than Deere would want for just the seals.

Make sure the airway is clear. A clogged air filter or blocked intake or exhaust can prevent running.

Do you have a fuse on your glow plug circuit? If that's good follow Wrangler's advice.

I think you'll have a wider latitude of choices if you have the shuttle shift. If you have the HST version be sure to get what the manufacturer specified.

It is NOT recommended to use starting fluid with a diesel tractor. Has this tractor ever run for you? You've given very little information and there are too many things to suggest without more information.

If it seems to be running rich you could be flooding it or choking it out. If freeing up your linkages doesn't fix the problem you could try hotter spark plugs. Beyond that it's probably time for a new or rebuilt carburetor.

I would not exceed the tire manufacturer's maximum pressure. If you need higher pressures to support your loads you probably have the wrong tires.

You'd have to determine the laws in Kansas. They vary by state with some states not even having sales tax. In Washington you may get tax credit if trading in at a dealer. If trading with an individual there would be no credit.

Get a schematic and see WHAT all is on that fuse. Disconnect everything it feeds and replace the fuse with a lamp temporarily to save on fuses. Start plugging things back in. When you get to the one that lights the lamp brightly that's probably your culprit. Check the wires that feed that...

If you have a mechanical cable try lubricating it - graphite works well. Make sure both ends are secure. If the knurled nuts start to back off the cable may no longer be fully seated.

Welcome to TBN. I'm a bit unclear on this one. You drained the hydraulic oil and refilled the gear box? This is all the same reservoir, right? Usually after refilling there is enough gravity flow to get fluid back to the pump. If you do not have enough to prime the pump by leaving it sit...

It's time to break out a schematic. You need to determine which components may be warmed as the engine comes up to temperature. You may also wish to put an ammeter in series with some wires to determine if a current is being drawn somewhere when there should be none drawn. What you perceive...

If you can unplug the solenoid and jumper it for the tractor to operate normally it may be the solenoid. More specifically it may have an intermittent connection internally - perhaps a bad solder joint. Take a resistance reading of its coil when cold. Remove it from the tractor and pop it...

What model Satoh Bison do you have? I think they were all diesel - they would have no spark.

Unless you only have one implement for your three point you may wish to incorporate a turnbuckle into each side to allow for different implement widths.

The coil COULD be at fault but would not commonly cause intermittent spark at the points unless it was an open circuit. I don't know what you understand about points and ignition systems. The ignition switch, when turned on, applies voltage to the primary side of the coil either directly or...

If you think it may be a switch see if you have voltage going into the switch. Turn on the light and see if you get voltage on that terminal. Get a wiring diagram and see if there are any relays between the switch and associated light. Troubleshooting mostly involves seeing what works and...

Try to determine from Yanmar literature the proper factory loader model number for each of those tractors. Kubota may use the same loader for three or four different models. Yanmar may do the same.

Compressor shouldn't be a problem. I'd be more concerned about the condition of the tank - rust, etc. If in too poor shape it could burst or at least leak where it may be rusted.

If it's what I think it is it should be connected to the ignition. When power is applied it should allow fuel to flow to the engine. With power off it cuts off the fuel supply causing the engine to die. Its purpose is to prevent run on after the ignition is turned off.

If your three point is set to full up and not adjusted correctly it can cause the loader to lift very slowly. If that's the case try moving the three point lever down a bit. Of course low hydraulic fluid or a clogged filter can be possibilities also.

Fuel on a gasoline tractor is generally gravity fed. Remove fuel line from carburetor. You should get a steady flow, not stop after a few seconds. Ballast resistor is usually under the hood near the distributor. It's in line between switch and coil primary. Its purpose (if used) is to limit...

Welcome to TBN. Disconnect fuel line from tank and ensure consistent flow. Sometimes there is blockage allowing only a trickle. Check or replace fuel filter. From there problem may be electrical. An intermittent ballast resistor is a possibility but if you bypass it you can confirm this...

I got a Drill Doctor. I got their top of the line model for the added versatility. It takes awhile to go through your drill bit collection but it seems to do a good job. I went through all my bits because, like you, I could never seem to find a sharp one when needed. If you want to trash...

I don't know your budget but is you plan to keep the garage / shop at a constant fifty to sixty degrees in the winter a heat pump may be the better choice. Of course an added bonus would be cooling the building in the summer. Eighty looks pretty attractive when it's a hundred plus outside and...

Since John Deere probably didn't MAKE the thermostat you should be able to take it in to a "real" auto parts store. They will likely have a catalog of the various thermostats with shapes and sizes. You need only find the one that will work in place of yours.

You can probably safely substitute another brand if it meets the same specifications. The old standby was ethylene glycol based but other types have entered the marketplace, too. Now Prestone and some other brands have a universal coolant that's supposed to work with everything. I'd drain the...

Welcome to TBN. Try searching for Yanmar KE-3D in your search engine. You'll get several hits, some of which are even You Tube videos.

If you have power all the way through shall we assume your dash lights are now working and the problem is solved?

Start with the basics. Remove battery cables and clean insides thoroughly. Be sure battery terminals are clean as well. Inspect cables for corrosion near connectors. Replace cables on battery and tighten securely. If you can move them they ain't tight. Follow ground cable (usually...

Any battery that will fit, has the correct terminal configuration, and meets the minimum of CCA will work. If you can get more CCA in a battery that will fit so much the better. More expensive batteries tend to last longer. You may only get a year or two out of the cheapest you can get where...

You could probably use the dipstick as is, bearing mind that the remaining ring is the full mark. As far as a piece of dipstick in your transmission, I doubt it. The main body of your tractor serves as the hydraulic reservoir for everything. There is unlikely to be any way to retrieve the...

Do you have a starter repair shop in your area? My local auto starter repair shop was able to source a brand new starter for an Mitsubishi tractor at a VERY reasonable price. Of course the starter wasn't made by Mitsubishi.

Welcome to TBN. You don't list what you've tried or whether it's ever run for you. Do you have voltage to the coil? Do you have spark from the coil? How are your points? Is the gap correct? How about the timing? Is your distributor cap any good? How about the rotor? Are the spark plug...

It's time to get to know your tractor. Have another person sit in the driver seat and depress the clutch. You get under the tractor to see what moves. Somewhere there is a threaded rod with an adjustment nut and probably a jam nut. It occurred to me that sometimes the clutch is hydraulically...

Attach a meter to a glow plug. Turn on the ignition to see if the meter gets an indication. This should be about ten volts and will tell whether your glow plugs are actually getting any power. If not you need to determine why. If they are getting power you need to check or replace the glow...

Find your clutch linkage. Adjust until you have about an inch of free play from the point at which your pedal normally rests until you can feel it starting to do something. If that doesn't solve your problem you may be approaching clutch replacement time.

Bear in mind if you go airless (and they do work well, other than overspray) the longer the hose the more material will be wasted when you clean up. There may be more volume inside the hose than you realize.

Do a bit of surfing for the TE 20 or the TO 20. The TE 20 was made in Coventry, England, the E signifies this. The TO 20 was basically the same tractor but USA made. They did use different engines. I tend to start with Tractor Data and go from there. Go surfing. There are sites...

Look on the right side of your engine near the top. They look a lot like spark plugs but instead of a heavy wire and rubber boot there's usually a nut holding a terminal and a regular wire. You could also just crank it over by hand.

I like to use a grease with molybdenum disulfide for sliding surfaces like the front loader, pedal shafts, etc. I prefer a lithium grease or that Lucas tacky grease for roller and ball bearings. Removing all old grease would probably involve disassembly and solvents. That sounds like...

Different glow plugs are constructed differently inside so you need to compare the glow plug numbers for the characteristics. You can have a quick heating or regular glow plug with exactly the same dimensions.

I thought about the bulb for a fuse trick. The problem with that is turning on the ignition switch is supposed to cause current to flow. Depending upon the choice of bulb normal current may be enough to cause it to burn brightly. You will probably have to break out the individual circuits...

It could be a fuel filter but that's not all it can be. Pull a line apart near the tank and watch the flow. If it slows way down after a few seconds you've got crud in the tank. With the advent of cooler temperatures, depending upon where you live, you could even be experiencing gelling of...

I don't think it's the cold start advance, whatever that is. It's possible mice have been working on your wiring. They tend to seek shelter as the weather cools. Try to locate a schematic diagram for your tractor. That will show what the ignition switch controls. It sounds like you have a...

Clutch adjustment is the first thing that comes to mind for me. You should feel about an inch of free play before you feel the resistance of the clutch working. If you have too much free play the clutch may not be disengaging the transmission from the engine. That's the cheapest easiest fix...

My father in law had a hundred year old plus farm house the family lived in. He had a cedar (I think) shake roof. He'd go up every few years and put on a new coat of oil, don't know what kind. The house still had the same roof when he retired and sold the farm.

You're into serious overkill. The receptacle may be rated for eighty amps but there's no way your tractor can supply it. I don't know the current draw on your accessories so it's hard to determine a fuse size. I will say ten AWG is a bit large for a twenty amp fuse. Twelve AWG would be more...

I'd start by shifting into neutral - perhaps a space between ranges - to see if the starter will turn the engine over. If not try rotating the engine by hand, perhaps using the front crankshaft bolt with a socket and breaker bar. This will let you know if the engine is seized.

Charge the battery and be sure connections are tight. I have found with my Craftsman and its Kohler engine the fuel pump seems incapable of pulling fuel from the tank just using the starter. I have to prime it with a bit of fuel directly into the carburetor. After doing that once or twice the...

If you can remove the screw put a bit of Vibra-Tite VC-3 on it after cleaning and degreasing it. Unlike Loctite it allows adjustment after application. It acts kind of like a self locking nut.

I don't have a Branson tractor. I did contact NGK via email and learned I had been using the incorrect glow plug in my Mitsubishi tractor. They gave me the correct number.

Welcome to TBN. I think you're saying the clutch doesn't disengage things. You may need to adjust it. If you start to depress the pedal you should have about an inch of free play before you feel it start to meet more resistance. If you have much more than in inch you have too much free play.

Welcome to TBN. I like to start with the basics. Check your air filter and ensure a clear air path to the intake manifold. I can't buy thirty volts at the glow plugs. You can't source that much voltage. They normally get about 10.5 volts. If you really had thirty they're probably toast.

Thicker fluid is unlikely to resolve the problem. The seals inside the three point may be shot and leaking by. Contact Valley Power or more info and maybe even a manual.

Twenty three milliamps is not very much draw. Are you SURE of that reading? That's about what a single LED would draw. At that rate it would take quite awhile to drain the battery. You could start troubleshooting by disconnecting the power to the ignition switch. Most circuits go through...

The compressor compresses the air. The tank is a reservoir for the compreAssors are rated at cubic feet per minute (cfm) at a given pressure. You have to determine your tool's requirements. A two stage compressor can frequently produce more pressure and faster than a single stage. If it can...

I'm on a well with the pump at 440 feet. For some time the water has had a disgusting odor, kind of like rotten eggs. I started thinking about investing in a processing system of some sort. I noted my pressure tanks wouldn't hold pressure. After a period of procrastination I decided to...

Instead of your ammeter try a twelve volt light in its place. If you have ten amps flowing free you'll easily light most any twelve volt trouble light. If it's a low wattage one the bulb itself will limit current to what it wants. Now you can start disconnecting wires. When the light goes...

Hi, and welcome to TBN. Have you considered contacting B & S directly? They may sell to the end user or direct you to a place that does. You could also consider replacing the engine.

I don't know what "new undercarriage" means but they are generally highly reliable though replacement parts from Cat run on the expensive side. Be sure the tracks have plenty of meat left and you should be fine. I had a 1942 model with the pony motor start which never refused to start. Going...

If there's a spelling error and the brand is actually Satoh it may not even have a thermostat. Locate the top hose on the radiator. Follow it back to the engine. If there's a thermostat it will be under the piece where the hose connects to the engine head. If your tractor is over heating...

As I understand it different models of RK tractors are made by different vendors. LS tractors are made by LS but they also produce tractors sold under other brands such as New Holland. Given the choice between the two I'd go LS. Personally I went Kubota because I REALLY dislike the local LS...

From experience, make it tall enough to actually back your tractor into. I like to get my mower all the way back into the shed and it's kind of heavy to move by hand. My shed is wide enough I park the tractor in the other half.

Sometimes a slow leak can be just a slightly loose or only snug valve core. Try making sure they're all tight and see if that helps.

My guess is that the hydraulic filter is there to keep your hydraulic system free of debris. The transmission filter is for your HST to make sure no really fine particles damage the fine tolerances inside. It is all from the same fluid reservoir just an added precaution for your HST.

I have one on each side in line with the hydraulic rams. At times I do think about adding a third in the center, just never got around to it.

You left me thoroughly confused but I would not run twenty amps through sixteen gauge wire. I'd go with fourteen as a bare minimum and twelve would be preferred.

I'll agree withe the clutch assessment. The PTO does not drive directly from the engine. I was advised by a mechanic to depress the clutch when engaging or disengaging the PTO to prevent damage or wear on the gears. I do not know if the HST is involved or not. I've never depressed the clutch...

Even if you could pump it out the dipstick hole at the same speed I'd worry whether I'd removed most all of the oil. Pulling the drain plug I'm pretty sure gets more old oil out. If you have an engine with a turbo I'm pretty sure the extractor is out of the question.

if you have a local bearing supplier take your bearings and seals in to them. Most bearings are pretty standard, they can probably even read the number. The same goes for your seals. Ford is unlikely to have had either especially made for the tractor but without the parts in hand a cross...

I use a rotary mower. I have dirt (mostly) over some boulders. I have walked the field and driven rebar next to the taller ones. I then slipped two foot pieces of white PVC over the rebar. It makes it really easy to steer around the worst of it. Yes, I've mowed over them and it makes a...

I suspect a picture would help. What lever? What control box? If the control box is the one for the front loader the little lever may be the interlock on the control. It just prevents accidental movement of the control lever for the loader.

The one you found will work on about anything. I got mine on Amazon as well but it may have been less expensive though it looked exactly like that one. There is a more compact type which sells for less but it only works on tractors with a hole drilled through the PTO shaft on the tractor. I...

Any ethylene glycol based antifreeze mixed 50/50 with distilled water should work. Prestone even has one that's supposed to be compatible with other types of antifreeze.

If the battery is good it could be loose or corroded connections at the battery. Follow the ground lead to the frame and check there, too. From there you can try continuity testing on the various positions on the ignition switch.

Check the battery voltage while trying to crank. See how much it drops. A failing battery may have the proper voltage but when asked to provide current the voltage may drop in half or less. Will the tractor start by jumping the starter? Your solenoid may be bad or getting inadequate voltage...

If you have a four wheel drive tractor the biggest concern is matching the overalll circumference to the original. Deviating very far will cause excessive wear in the drive mechanism. Beyond that it doesn't matter if you're running racing slicks.

You don't commonly bleed hydraulic lines. Run the bucket up and down a few times. Try to determine the appropriate hydraulic fluid. Most tractors seem to use the same fluid in the transmission. This becomes most critical with an HST transmission. As with any new to you vehicle you should...

If you're rural delivery seems to vary with the carrier. I've had mail delivered at 6:30 in the evening. I've also noticed that although mail may not be delivered on Sunday packages may be. You can sign up for their "Informed Delivery" and get a better handle on what they're delivering and...

Would these be for your L2501 or some other tractor? If they are for the L2501 I'm sure someone (even me) could measure the existing arms.

You may be able to install chains as you would a car, without jacking. Simply lay them out with the inside of the chain facing up then drive onto them stopping about halfway. That's just a thought, I've never chained a tractor.

I don't have Massey, I have Kubota. Oil, hydraulic, and HST filters are all different sizes. You do definitely want to use the appropriate filter for your HST transmission. I believe it's a finer filter than your hydraulic filter. Think of repair costs and go with the correct filter in the...

I don't know Yanmar, bought Kubota as it was more appropriate to my needs. I found a couple nuts not correctly torqued. Given your issues I suggest going around your tractor and checking tightness of various nuts and bolts. Get a torque wrench and check wheel lugs and loader torques, too.

I try to park my tractor so the cylinders are all retracted to prevent dust on the exposed rods. I do like the idea of relieving pressure after killing engine, though.

I'm unfamiliar with the product. If it's based on Portland cement it gets hard due to a chemical reaction. You can grind it to powder again but adding water won't reconstitute it. I had an old bag of concrete. I used it to set the post for my mailbox.

My garden tractor has a two cylinder Kohler engine. I've had no problem with my eBay starter. One could also try Amazon. Or you could just pick up a couple brushes and continue using it until the gears no longer mesh.

You might consider asking what damage will occur. I understand the trailer may be prone to bounce a bit if towed unloaded but I can't envision damage. Perhaps you should drive your tractor to the dealer so you con load it onto the trailer thus preventing damage?

You could spend a fortune on fittings and boxes. I hate pulling wire into or fishing flex. Check your codes - you can probably run NM cable (Romex) exposed above eight feet. I prefer thinwall (EMT) for most wiring jobs. Most boxes have knockouts for half or three quarter inch fittings.

I'm using a full synthetic. With what I've got into the tractor good lubricants and good filters are a small price to pay. I do shop for the best prices on my choice of oil, though.

It sounds like you've overlooked one of the safeties or one of your jumpers is incorrect or not making contact. Note that some safety switches open when activated. You need to understand what the switch is doing and how it works.

My lawn mower flats generally result from running over tack weeds, goat heads, puncture vines, or what ever you choose to call them. There are a LOT of them in this area. I used some off brand tire sealant, installing the recommended amount in each tire. I did this before mowing to be sure...

Intake air heaters work - I had one in my Dodge diesel pickup. Is it possible to replace the Thermostart with a standard glow plug? Another option might be a block heater but that would involve plugging it into power to warm the engine before starting. Even so, a warm engine is easier to...

If it's leaking fix it right, don't take chances with an explosive gas. If you don't want to do it pay the money and have it done right. That way you won't have to worry about how long a temporary fix will hold before needing redone.

If trenching to three feet in sandy soil you may find the trench caving in on itself to the point it's only a foot deep when done.

If you've tried rubbing compound it appears the existing paint has changed color over time - not uncommon. That being the case Richard above has the answer - prep the surface and paint it.

I'm unfamiliar with an ignition light. Is this something that used to work then quit or something that never worked? Is it possible you're calling something else an ignition light, such as glow plug, oil, over temp, or alternator?

Unless you can come up with a compromise tire you are satisfied will do both jobs you will be stuck with the expense of four more tires on rims as well as the hassle of swapping them when you change jobs. The Types of Tractor Tire Treads: R-1, R-1W, R-2, R-3, R-4, Hybrid

This does not make sense. If you extract and break down CO2 you get carbon and oxygen. Oxygen may be a carbon neutral fuel but carbon is not - and by itself oxygen is not a fuel. It seems there are a few pieces of the chemistry missing from the article. And somehow this makes a liquid you...

Do a bit of homework. Tractors got real serious about emissions in 2014. Trucks started about 2004, I believe. My 2008 Dodge had a diesel particulate filter and some kind of exhaust gas recirculation. That was the first year for that particular engine - always a bad thing.

It does sound like a fuel issue. If it cranks it is probably not a safety or sensor issue. Do you have good flow from the tank? How's your fuel filter? Does it have a water drain?

Clean battery terminals and ground connection. Is engine turning over? Do you have power to glow plugs? Are they good? How much white smoke?

I'd track down the problem. Your glow plugs should not have constant power and may have burned out by now. Try to track down a parts breakdown of that tractor.

Current oils are CJ, CK, and CI. All would be backward compatible with CC and CD.

Track down a schematic of your tractor to see how it's wired. I don't know if your tractor has a timer. Some do, some don't. Either way glow plugs are generally energized by turning the ignition key to the left. It's a spring loaded position so when released it will snap back to the off...

You can check out this video. It may help.

I had a D4 from the forties. Dealer said he'd have no problem getting parts for it but they were a long way from cheap.

By all means check valve adjustment if you've not done so lately but while you're at it make sure your glow plugs are getting power and the glow plugs themselves are good. They're basically a heater and can open up at any time.

Sometimes you CAN set the distributor 180 degrees out. While you're tinkering make sure the distributor is turning in the direction you think it should.

Depending on what you're doing you could investigate PTO driven hydraulic pumps.

I had a Mitsubishi D2350 or was it a 2350D? Either way I got a manual from Valley Power

For starters check the level of your hydraulic fluid.

In addition to nesting in cozy spaces mice like to snack in their leisure time. Insulation from wires can be a mighty tasty snack. I keep D-Con behind both headlights in my car for that reason.

According to Tractor Data the 23 quarts sounds like the right amount. Are you sure you have the correct dip stick for that tractor? TractorData.com Ford 1700 tractor information

The only thing that really matters is the circumference of the tire. You may wish to measure to confirm. Even with the same size if the sidewall height is different (aspect ratio) the circumference will change.

My Kubota arrived with a full tank of fuel as well as a spare key and a key fob. I asked about a hat and did get one though I got the impression Kubotas don't normally come with hats. My dealer is actually a manufacturer of agricultural equipment which also sells Kubota tractors. I think they...

The rotary cutter is furthest when down and closest when up. I like to cut my shaft as long as possible. That means I measure the distance when up then subtract a couple of inches to make sure it won't bind. On my tractor and mower combination I have about a five inch difference between full...

You could try Valley Power

If it's the basic old fashioned gear mesh drive and the fluid also runs the hydraulics probably a good grade of universal tractor fluid would do fine. You can get it at just about any tractor supply place or even NAPA.

Make sure all cylinders are working. My Craftsman garden tractor was doing that and it turned out it was only running on one cylinder.

I mounted my light bar on the ROPS. I have a front loader which tends to block the standard lights. The higher light bar easily fills in what's blocked. If you have no loader you may wish to investigate bright LED lights to replace the standard bulbs in the factory headlights. They generally...

I'm not sure you have the correct manual or perhaps the information is in error. You do NOT want to use eighty weight gear oil in an HST transmission and according to Tractor Data that model does have an HST. You need to determine what fluid Mahindra recommends for their HST. This will be the...

Rule of thumb is five horsepower per foot of mower diameter. If what you're mowing isn't too dense and you go slow you can get by with a little less.

A shop that builds rims can take the centers from your existing rims and weld them into just about any rim width you want. It's not cheap but can be done. You may be able to score used rims as well. Contact Valley Power

I'll agree with Jeff. Overcharging is a potentially dangerous situation. The battery can actually explode.

I've got no experience with aftermarket master cylinders but if you can find a kit some can be rebuilt.

I started doing my own maintenance whenever possible when I was young and couldn't afford having it done for me. I'm older now (76) and appalled at prices being charged so I continue doing much of my own - oil changes, shocks, brakes, etc. Tire rotations are free or $10 depending on where I go...

Great explanation on API ratings. Different viscosities are recommended depending upon the temperatures. Definitely stick with the Kubota filters, especially for the HST!! You may be able to get a kit of genuine filters from your dealer or Messicks.

Remove the wires from the sender. With the key on measure the voltage. I don't know how much voltage is supplied to the sender. Check the schematic to see what voltage should be applied to the sender / gauge. Perhaps it should be twelve volts, perhaps not. Some instruments use a five volt...

Get a schematic. On many vehicles (tractors included) "back in the day" some of the instruments (like fuel and temp gauges) did not work from the twelve volt supply. They had a separate five volt regulated supply. See if the schematic indicates whether you have such a regulator or other...

Everything I've seen gives the same information. If yours has turf tires on the rear (which are smaller than ag tires) I suspect the front tires should be correspondingly smaller as well to preserve the ratio for four wheel drive. Try to score an owner's manual or perhaps make a visit to the...

I wonder if their "technician" didn't have the valve stem at the twelve o'clock position? Perhaps the volume measuring device was incorrect or misread?

You didn't by chance raise the front end with the loader did you?

You've got options. My first thing to try would be Sea Foam. Drain the tank and make a 50-50 mix of fuel and Sea Foam (using the appropriate amount of oil if two stroke). Start the engine any way you can and let it run for a bit to be sure this mixture has run through the carburetor. Shut it...

If your battery reads 12.8 while the key is on and you still only get 3.8 at the fuse box it's time to start serious troubleshooting. If you've not done so, clean the ground connection and tighten securely. Follow the hot lead to the fuse box. You appear to have a resistive connection...

If you've not done so, check the air filter and the air path from there to the manifold. Perhaps you'll get lucky and that's all it is. (Perhaps not.)

If your voltage drops that low when you turn the key you've either got very dirty battery contacts, a battery beyond its useful life, a very poor ground connection, or some other highly resistive connection. If the battery voltage drops to 3.4 volts at the battery terminals it's most likely the...

I don't know what seals ethanol might eat - perhaps in your carburetor - but I know from experience it will eat flexible neoprene fuel lines. There is a newer neoprene formulation to stop that but any non ethanol fuel would be better overall. Ethanol does retain moisture in your fuel as well...

Find something slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the nozzle and fashion a plug. I fashion a plug for my PTO connector out of a paper towel but you can get more elegant. For example if a piece of half inch PVC would barely fit into the nozzle a cap glued onto the end would keep the...

Your owner manual should tell you what type antifreeze to use. Many manuals will recommend an ethylene glycol base. Some of the newer anti freeze types being sold are supposed to be compatible with everything. Those would be a good choice. I know Prestone had a universal one. You can buy a...

Are you sure you used the correct viscosity of oil? Given the age of the tractor and the fact it's probably a gasoline engine 30 is probably the proper weight. If that's correct, I agree with John - put a known good oil pressure gauge on it. If that reads high, too, your oil pressure relief...

Usually (but not always) the temperature sensor is located on the engine very close to the thermostat. This would be near where the top radiator hose exits the engine.

If the blade is a Category 1 it should work with your tractor. The specific question for the RK tractor proceeds to give their part number. Why they say it won't work I don't know. Category 1 is pretty much Category 1. It involves things like pin diameters and distance between three point...