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A parking brake and putting tractor in Park are two different things. Park is like a gear being engaged.

Had me worried for you until I realized you didn't finish this sentence, and say remove the tranny cover, which is better than removing the transmission. Hope you see an obvious problem when you remove that cover.

I think you will need to first understand just what is "stuck" that won't let you release "park". Maybe JD parts will offer up that info in the parts schematics. Or maybe someone will see this that knows from your description what is the actual problem.

Broken wire ? somewhere ? Any history of past things that have happened that may give you a hint where to look?

Pics of your results?

Good on you Tx Jim That fits well with the "grill" in the image, better than the 1020. The three cylinder should be easy to check out when seeing the tractor again. https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/7/70-john-deere-1520.html

Also think a JD 1020 from Dubuque and pic confirms it is a 1020, to me. 4 cylinder diesel. Curious if that is a molded weight added ahead of the grill.

Can you post a photo of the tractor? Welcome to TBN

Believe I found where mine is located in my JD 4300. Just to the left side of the fuse panel protruding out of a wiring harness.

Welcome to TBN Which part of the draft linkage do you need? You can likely get the individual parts from a Deere dealer, and pick out the part numbers from this link to JD parts and order online through a search...

How old is the fuel supply? Chance of contaminated, sludgy, or old fuel? Last filter change? Bring us up to date on the history of your fuel.

Looks like you are well equipped and all set. Assume your manual gives any particulars that you need to operate.

Or you can place a vacuum suction hose on the fill port to hold the tranny oil in while changing out that screen. Works great. (with the vacuum running of course :):):) ). Welcome to TBN codydean10

The 4300 (predecessor to the 3520) does not. Maybe the 3520 does. Your thought of the dash cowl is a good one, and I'd go into the fuse door as well. It's in there somewhere. ;);)

Weave your way into the throttle handle pivot system where there is a friction adjustment. On my 4300, that was not easy but somewhat straight forward picking apart what you can remove. Link to JD parts...

The JD 430 is between 32 and 40 years old. Can't expect Deere to re-stock parts in their warehouses forever. And what is left in stock, should indeed bring a higher price due to value.

coosa To me, "cranking" just means it will turn the engine over, but starting the tractor engine is another thing. So not sure I understand what is really happening when you state it will "crank the engine ok for the rest of the day" ?

Red RV antifreeze, as I understand, is just for the RV plumbing system and not recommended for coolant in internal combustion engines as it does not contain the protective additives.

Drawbars normally are able to angle off to the left or right depending on the equipment pulled. Depends on the desired tracking of the equipment with respect to the centerline of the tractor, in your case the 110 TLB. There is a center pin to the front, and other pins are dropped in the rear of...

Looks awesome, and thank you for sharing the effort you put into the restoration and the results.

Welcome to TBN As this referenced post is 11 years ago, you may benefit with an answer if you send a personal message to MGADon.

Welcome to TBN, but please don't post duplicate posts. ;)

Have not found it yet either. Do you have a 3ph lift? What other pieces of equipment might you have, or who may have been on your property with something that dropped this part? May not have anything to do with a tractor or piece of equipment, and just is a blind "nut" for a rod or bolt.

Did you start another duplicate thread for this problem?

No problem.

You mentioned this was the second 445, so you have been getting along without a service manual on that one? They are good to have. By chance might you need to bleed that carburetor plug, which we have to do when running out of fuel? When I had my 445, that plug caught me off guard once.

Welcome to TBN Hope others see your situation and can chime in to get you some help, or ideas to check something out.

Welcome to TBN This link is to JD parts, and maybe you can point out which orings you are trying to replace (assume key#20), and which part you are trying to remove. Maybe the schematic will help you. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/7619/referrer/navigation/pgId/1534748

Have not noticed lack of lifting power with my JD 4300. Have significant ballast and rear wheel fluid, and still can lift enough with the loader to bring the rear wheels off the ground. Had a couple occasions to operate similar size hp New Holland and Kubota loader tractors without near the lift...

Which John Deere model is this and which "knob" did you open?

Welcome to TBN. Hopefully member "thepumpguysc" will see this and offer his valuable expertise.

The JD 4100 is in a different model line-up from the 4200, 4300, 4400, 4500, 4600, and 4700. The 4100 is a basic Yanmar painted green, iirc.

JC What tractor model? The Yanmar YM186D ?

Welcome to TBN Not sure I follow what the "challenge" is, but apparently you have a reason to be concerned that the fluid is over-full. (or is there an apparent problem of being over-full?). If no problem, then I would leave it be, knowing that there is enough fluid to keep the sight glass...

Like my thumb a lot, as it will aid in moving logs, brush, and can hold material on pallets when teetering on the forks.

Welcome to TBN Don't know if this model has the thermistor that lurks in some of the models, but others will likely know better.

Edit: Part number LVU31387 (found it, thanks) Most people using their tractors seldom use the brake pedal as the HST will stop the tractor, however it is a safety device in sometimes critical situations.

Looks like an easy fix to replace that cracked piece.

This comment doesn't add to the Deere discussion. Stick to what you know about, this isn't it. ;);)

Do you have a number? Will you start with your Deere dealer?

Curious, but who in Deere will you call?

Will air blow through the radiator fins without blockage?

What is leading you to think a new alternator belt? Usually the alternator will just pivot away to loosen enough to get the belt off. Should not be difficult. Let us know if you run into a problem, and post a pic or two. I'd suggest you have the service tech manual, as it will help you avoid...

Is the radiator clean, and not full of mud. Happens when people think washing with a garden hose and water turns the dust to mud. Also there is the hyd. oil cooler adjacent to the radiator that needs cooling.

Welcome to TBN Maybe thepumpguysc will see your plea for help and chime in. He's the best one I can think of as you may have been making more problems for yourself than fixing. I'm not sure. Good luck.

You might not get very far with a burr under your saddle. ;) ;) Gas or diesel? Doubt the Gator is China made, but maybe the cheaper clutch is that you found. Try to find what you are looking for in JD parts, or have you already found the part numbers? Maybe has had an engine replacement...

As pointed out by oldnslo, adjust the "stop" raising linkage. Seems classic problem for that solution.

Calcium level above the top of the rim doesn't rust, steel is below the calcium level. Then as long as there are no leaks that allow the calcium to bleed onto the outside of the rim, no rust. I'm not sticking up for calcium, but it doesn't deserve the bad rap from incorrect use either.

He agrees, check out the throttle linkage. ;);)

Agree with TractorTech What has been the last tranny oil change? Is it possible the oil is causing sluggish movement? But check the external movement of the linkage too, for wear or not engaging. Welcome to TBN.

Best I can suggest is to get a pressure gauge that you can plug into the quick couplers and check for where you have pressure.

Think I would call that the "left" side. Usually the "drivers" side (USA) is the left side, and appears that is the dash or instrument panel in the schematic. Tried, but could not find that schematic shown by jd110

Try sending us more description of what is and is not happening. Not getting a clear picture of the problem, and what led up to your problem. Hope we can help.

Close to the PTO solenoid on the wiring harness. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/3267/referrer/navigation/pgId/2313533 Welcome to TBN

How did you check/test out the battery? Load test or just volt meter?

Calcium filled to the correct level will not rust the rims. However, don't want to have any leaking tires either.

Maybe a 1/4" size opening in one dimension, but not a 1/4" diameter hole, nor a 1/4" hardware cloth.

The tags that I see are for the cab, a couple for the RoosaMaster injection pump, but I'm not seeing the one that is on the rear by the PTO as indicated location on the Tractor Data .com site. Let us know if there is a tag on that rear by the PTO. Might be a victim of the change to the...

3rd function is better, but having the additional option to divert that function is even better yet. I use the added 3rd function for having a very useful hyd. top arm, but switch that 3rd function to my grapple thumb when moving logs and/or brush piles.

Get some mice poison and use it, keep it out and available all the time. Jane will be better for it.

Welcome to TBN First blush, would suspect the battery is dead. Just had my 4300 do the same "trick" on me. But also remove and clean the battery cable connections both ends to be certain there is no corrosion, and then also have the battery tested under load. Let us know how that goes.

Welcome to TBN What issues are you having?

Not let gas come ?? If the float is sinking, then it won't "float" and shut off the gas, iirc.

Tight, don't think you can break it, but don't think it will work loose, or a huge problem if it does.. just tighten it again. ;)

Thanks for letting us know. (y)

Just a thought, but have you tried without the fuel filter in the line? Flow only goes one way. Another thought, trying to keep it running without the fuel cap. Idea that it is not venting. Another, new fuel lines. Ethanol can be hard on them, and cause internal breakdown and plugging...

Yes, parts refers to tie rod assembly with yoke. No castle nut.

This the ball joint you are replacing the boot seals?

Part key #5 doesn't just thread out ? Missing why the chrome shaft needs to be removed, but may be not seeing the problem you face in the good pics posted.

Leave the wire nut on then.

About what I have been getting, as new in '98 and just put 4th one in the 4300. I found that thermistor tied into the fuse block on my 4300. Innocent looking but packs an important part of the engine running. Arrow points to it.

OP said it was the battery and now working fine. Welcome to TBN

Welcome to TBN This link to Tractor Data should help https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/6/64-john-deere-4020.html Your location would help us too. thanks

Think just a half twist will unlock the light bulb from the light. https://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Original-Equipment-R136239/dp/B013P39GDK

Does it help to open the fuel filler cap, in case you are not getting venting?

I suspect battery dead as well. Had the same thing three days ago with my 4300. New battery, (clean cable connections didn't work to solve the issue) and good to go.

What model 1950 tractor?

Welcome to TBN May be in the brake valve assembly, as shown here in JD parts. Is this the "block" you cleaned? Were the 0-rings good? https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/3229/referrer/navigation/pgId/2443290 Member Tx Jim may pop in and may have genuine experience to offer...

Not to disappoint you, but WD-40 is not a very good penetrating fluid. A very good one, but not well known is Blue Creeper, by LogRite https://logrite.com/Category/bluecreeper Another is Kroil. But heat may be needed if absolutely necessary to get it to move off those spines. Wish you...

arto It will. (y) I only put windshield washer fluid in my rear tires for weight. Add chains for winter snow in case I need the blade for a job.

Welcome to TBN Up to s/n 420000, you should be able to pinpoint what is available at the JD parts site. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/4487/level/2/snp/MjQ3OTYwOkNIQVBURVJbMTA2MTojQlVTSU5FU1NfUkVHSU9OLDgwOTg6I0NBVEFMT0csNDQ4NzpFUVVJUE1FTlRd

There likely is a reason that JD carries value longer and often higher than the other brands. Some like that, some do not. But it seems an undeniable fact. Everyone has to make the decision for themselves.

Welcome to TBN. How about some better history of your JD 855. Not much to go on so far.

Israel B Moore in the marketing business?? Tell us about your experience and business? Welcome to TBN

On the high dollar side, but someone will get it and have a good tractor, IMO. Doesn't sound like it will be you. You could offer less and see what happens.

Welcome to TBN Send a pm message to thepumpguysc. He has shown a lot of expertise as well as has been very helpful to TBN members. You also can look at the threads and posts to read what he has posted. May find your answers there as well, and also enjoy his knowledge...

First built 2008, so less than 16 yrs old. Maybe had been in a flood?

Reminds me of an asphalt machine laying asphalt in my driveway a few years back, and having a hyd. oil leak at a control valve. I had an o-ring kit that helped the crew out when they just pulled out a spool that was leaking and changed the damaged o-ring. Not sure it is the same, but might be...

Do you have the service tech manual that has the hydraulic control lines featured ? My 4300 does, so would think the 3032E would as well. Seeing the rust, maybe some blockage of a valve or a screen is plugged. When was last hyd. oil and filter and the screen changed and/or cleaned?

Have you tried pulling out the spools and putting new o-rings on them? Maybe they do not have o-rings ?? This might help, or you may find other video's too.

smp22 Identify where the steering is loose. Maybe it is in the power steering control valve, or the gear connection to the quadrant attached to the drag links. Something should show up very loose. As to the deck adjustments, they are done with the deck mounted on the tractor. Let us know...

Maybe member smp22 will return with some update if any of these comments have helped.

Have you measured the distance above flat surface area that your blades are set with respect to the height dial ? Have you "leveled" the deck according to the procedure, i.e. correct tire pressure, side to side adjustment, front to back adjustment, per the height dial indicator? Procedure...

Have not seen pics of yours.

Maybe remove the shroud first, then the fan blade.

Much appreciate the confirmation. (y)

Behind the fuse panel door on my 4300, there is a yellow "tab" that I suspect is the thermistor. Can anyone confirm that for me? Not being a problem, but often wondered if I would know where to find it if it someday would need changing. Arrow in attached pic

Glad you found the problem. (y)

No answer, but might help if you had all your questions in one thread, rather than starting a new one for each "hump-in-the-road". Saves searching for responses and other info already posted. Just a thought. Some pics of what you are facing might also bring up some helpful thoughts from others.

Which model lawn tractor? Welcome to TBN

Should not have to bleed the system. Look elsewhere for the problem.

It's a myth that JD parts are "stratosphere" priced, especially when buying parts for other manufacturer's equipment. JD known for having parts for it's tractors well into the past (not all parts, but many can be looked up and found available for vintage models). It is indeed expensive to...

I have every 3pt attachment (rototiller, brush cutter, chipper, turbosaw, landscape rake, ballast box, carry-all, forks) fitted to easily pick up with the i-Match frame. As well, my logging tongs fit well on the i-Match hook and makes dragging in logs from the woods or when retrieving stuck...

That's funny.

It is not the hysteria that you are trying to imply. Yes, JD has been shifting production around the world for 50 years. It is how they stay in business and on top so they can continue to produce ag equipment including tractors. They didn't get to be the best by making wrong decisions...

Spreading rumors.

No question at 89 to get what works for you at the moment. Not my choice of color, but don't fault you for a split second for what you did. Enjoy the time on red. 😁😁

Cranking is "turning over". Engine running is when it starts.

Not seeing any damage. ??

You said in the OP That indicates that the threads are stripped. Different if one end is stuck and not turning. Hope you let us know if locking it down tight will get the end to turn out.

Doubt any harm would come to them. Maybe warm feet, but no burns or damage.

Battery cable connections need removal and cleaning, or battery needs load testing. If that doesn't work, then go after the starter.

"check" meaning removing and cleaning, as sounds like corrosion is possibly causing a disconnect.

Each end should screw out. Puzzled what you mean by "not going in or out". If true, then threads must be stripped, which is hard to believe.

Quote Take a look and decide which you have.

Would you post a photo of the rod showing the place where it broke. Do you have the part number? Or the section in the manual? Is that control rod in this schematic? maybe key 50?

???

This link to Tractor Data shows the engine change, and s/n difference. https://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/000/0/4/42-john-deere-420-engine.html

Post a photo showing the spring so we can then give you some pointers. Welcome to TBN

Wonder what you found that was not metric underneath.?? My 4300 has all metric, and is the forerunner of the 4310 (fortunately as I don't have the computer and electronics mothering over me). ;):giggle:

You may also discover that Deere has been metric for many years. Just FYI Glad to hear that you are conquering the problem. (y)

Welcome to TBN. Hating the engineers won't do any good at all. Good luck tho, getting the job done. I've had frustrating times doing the mechanic work on my Deere equipment, and have yet to blame it on the engineers. We're not all perfect so wish you well.

Battery cable connections removed and cleaned, and if that doesn't work do a load test on the battery. Welcome to TBN

Belt tightener spring, but it is a broken one.

Interested in what electric mulch kit you are going to use.

Seeing a 70A loader for sale, presently on a Deere 855, if that helps anyone. Waupun, WI on CL for $4800

You can pull that screen out and check it without losing transmission fluid by using a shop vac to draw a vacuum on the tranny at the fill cap. Won't allow the oil to drain from the system. Should maybe have a new gasket if needed. You will know when you look at it if it was checked.

When the tranny oil was changed, did you also clean the screen in the transmission? I believe there is one, and it may be plugged or constricted. Just a thought... key item #39 in attached file

Timbucktwo Did you mean "front" instead of rear in your table?

I mow over the branches, if less than 1" diam. Mulch them up.

Welcome to TBN

Is the tranny drive belt turning the tranny okay? May have to remove the fender deck to see how it functions. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/1979743/referrer/navigation/pgId/199695208

Welcome to TBN Low vis is for the hydrostatic transmission. If you can get by with A and B speeds, then should do fine with your site prep work. C range is for road travel. Interested in how you make out with this project tractor. Hope you have the service tech manual, or soon to get one.

bpeacock Welcome to TBN From your post, can't tell what you are describing or what your problem is that you question. Can you give us more information? Maybe start your own post or copy what in the 13 year old thread you are referring to there. thanks

Welcome to TBN Do you have the service tech manual for your LX280?

Try following the linkage and see what may be disconnected or detached. May have to remove some parts like the seat and then the fender deck.

Which Kohler engine? 10 hp? I have a complete rebuild Kohler 8hp that is available. New block, piston, the works. But don't think that is what you want. What is part number of the pump you are looking for? Are you certain the problem is the pump?

I'll support my JD dealer so he'll be around when I need the help and service that ebay cannot provide. It's just me.

Looks like Deere blades for the 60" are $72 on Amazon free shipping for pkg of 3. Pkg of 3 for a Kubota 60" deck showing $65 on Amazon. 'nuff of the JD stuff is overpriced. Mostly hearsay BS. ;);)

What is the difference in price? Not asking the difference in quality. I'm curious.

Seeing a pic of the serial number tag would secure the blade part number. Have that pic available? But looks like M141785 Here is link to JD parts to see for yourself. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/78976/referrer/navigation/pgId/20572627

Cwatter Welcome to TBN Are you representing your neighbor?

I'd kindly suggest you find a different way to start it, as starting fluid may not be your best solution in the long run. It is a handy crutch and also the mower was a good price and may be expendable. but... Look for the reason that fuel is not available after sitting a spell. Welcome to TBN

Check that both cylinders are firing when this "stutter" happens. Think roadworthy has a point. Pull one of the spark plug wires off and see if one or the other is not firing. Let us know so we can get past this point and move to the next for you.

Sorry to hear that there is a neighbor dumb enough to be mowing with kids in the yard. And sorry for the child who had such an ignorant father. Ends up we all pay for his stupidity. End of rant.

Look for the switch that opens the circuit when the reverse pedal is pushed. Then decide how to just move that switch to the side so it is not able to contact the reverse pedal linkage. May require removing the deck to see the linkage underneath. But there is a switch, and then it is up to you...

Just a guess, but sounds like the leveling device is above, rather than under, the deck leveling control. It's designed to hold the deck up at whatever the lowest setting is at, and if the deck has been removed then this problem can happen.

Just leave the dip stick fill plug loose and it will vent. Works for everything except driving the axle underwater. At least has worked well for me. And don't use the low vis Hygard oil. Straight Hygard is what I use. Again, works for me but each can plan their own way.

dfkrug Do you recall or have the inside diameter measurement of that pipe that you used to make the special tool? A clever way to skin that cat.

Search for the way to replace the seal. Likely is the problem. Fixable if you have such mechanical and are interested in DIY. I experienced a seal leak before I learned to loosen the fill plug to relieve the pressure caused by the oil in the axle warming up and pushing out the seal. If you are...

Maybe still China, but new updated specs ?? In the world market, China is still a player. A video taken recently on the port docks in Baltimore, showing the many CAT excavators being offloaded from a trapped (bridge collapse) freighter from China.

Did you just start a new thread instead of just adding to the other thread where this was explored? https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/my-2025r-thread.472293/page-4#post-6797973

Welcome to TBN Something bent and out of line, or ?? JD oem belt? M126009

Maybe read the post 6 years ago too? https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/jd-790.403100/

ProudPapa Welcome to TBN Apparently you just joined in on this 12 yr old thread?? Suggest you help us out with your history of the problem without hanging onto the "branch" of the previous problems. Start fresh. That way we might be able to follow along for a better solution of your problem...

Welcome to TBN Have you cleaned the battery cables both ends? Then have you load tested the battery? Checked that mice have not nested and eaten wires? Ignition switch checks out okay? Or "what have you checked out already"? And is this first try after winter storage? Need a reason you are...

Welcome to TBN At least you got it fixed. Woods work is full of goblins that can reach out and getcha! What work in the woods were you doing with the 5055E?

Jim Any resolution to the neighbors problem?

Could just buy the vented cap too. Part # AM100289 My 4x2 Gator has a non-vented cap and never stalls out. Not sure why ?? Must vent some other way than the cap.

Agree, sounds like a safety switch and "welcome" to TBN

Being in Moline, IL, you are a stones throw from JD headquarters. But a local dealer will have the right male end to connect to the JD model 5045. But may be important to say if it is 5045D or 5045E. Am sure the coupler is quite standard. Is the top link a Deere product or did it come without...

Take that one in to a NAPA or similar and have it matched up. You are prolly correct, and can get by with less $$$. Hope you let us know what you find out and what works for you.

Pic is of the female .. Are you looking to change the male on the end of an hydraulic hose or this female coupler?

What is the outcome? No change, or new parts/assembly?

Quite the fabricator, you are. Thanks for taking us along on your adventure.

Maybe able to pick from JD parts link to the non-powered steering axle. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/68365/referrer/navigation/pgId/20340011 Or the rod end for the power steering cylinder here...

JD parts shows the brackets. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/68882/referrer/navigation/pgId/842351454

Same engine as you were working on a few years back? Was it up and running in the meantime? Or maybe this problem now is a different model, being now a 4610 that the engine blew...

Not sure what you are describing. Maybe with some more detail and history, we can get you some help.

But starts and runs okay? or runs but not good? what do you observe?

https://www.amazon.com/Deere-Tractor-Service-Manual-JD-S-TM1253/dp/B01BO8458O

Welcome to TBN What has led up to this happening? Must be some history behind the problem. Bring us up to date a bit.

Thanks!

Harry Can you point out that seal in the parts? https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/79074/referrer/navigation/pgId/11460597

Welcome to TBN Not sure which oil seal you refer to here. Do you have the rear axle out now? Is the silicone shown in pic a substitute for a gasket? The rear brake shown can be seen in JD parts https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/79074/referrer/navigation/pgId/11460597...

Question, do you have the service tech manual? If not, will you get one?

Might help going to JD parts for your JD 755. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/66727 You can browse there for parts info and where the steering connections may be failing.

A bit of gear-grind noise/condition is normal. Just shove it into forward or into reverse, when the engine is idling. Belt condition may be making it worse than it should be. There are specs to measure the belt wear, and should find them in the service tech manual.

Not planning to attempt it until after you find a video that shows how without removing the radiator?

Guess don't leave it out. ??;);)

Welcome to TBN I'd look for a stick stuck in somewhere that restricts movement. Remove the boot and see if there is something there that is causing the side to side movement. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/80911/referrer/navigation/pgId/748201910

Welcome to TBN A thought is linkage might be a problem, is to oil those linkages to try to rule that out as the problem. Sounds doable as well as a prudent first move. Easier than a more in-depth issue.

Kawasaki 2-cyl engine? Search the net for the model number.

Add spacers inside the rear wheels. I added 2.5" to both sides and my 4300 feels much, much more comfortable on slopes. Use the search tool on "add wheel spacers" for a lot of hits on TBN for more information.

Why not for the JD 4320? Inside fender room?

DJ You know how to fit chains to a tire. No need for hanging bungy cords and springs on the side when the chains are fitted to the tires. Good job. (y)(y)

Likely leads to the hydraulic oil cooler. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/57079/referrer/navigation/pgId/204570413

When I was looking for a brush hog, I rented a JD 855 of similar hp as the 2025R, and tried out a demo JD 513 (5ft) brush hog. With the HST tranny, there was no problem handling this size deck. Still have that JD 513 but running behind my JD 4300 at 32 hp. Only problem that I can see, would be...

Welcome to TBN. And thanks for the good suggestion about the o-ring. So the plugged vent cap caused the chatter. Will keep that in mind. Now enjoy that 3320 w/cab. Sometimes wish I had a cab tractor, until those days that the open air platform makes tractoring a joy to behold. :):)

Measured 33", could possibly be 32". Don't find my receipt for that order, at the moment.

Dandeere Welcome to TBN Heynow's post is 13 years old. Maybe if you would start a new post and tell us how this problem came about or when you became aware of any changes leading up to this condition, as well as give us some history of what you have tried for a remedy. Hopefully you will get...

I'd first see if you can manually move the pedals to a neutral spot, to assure there is not a friction problem.

Agree it is likely the pedals are not returning to a neutral position due to cold lubricant or not enough lubricant. Does this tractor sit out in the weather? Welcome back to TBN

Does the mechanic need the computer software that Deere uses to check out the instrument cluster? Does the instrument cluster give any error lights ?? Seems we are missing some information to help, but maybe your mechanic has it all under control.

Welcome to TBN Interesting, but who/where do you send it for testing? And is it a Deere mechanic working on it?

Have read here that going to a Yanmar site is helpful for finding parts. Don't have the site to link to, but maybe you can google it, or some member will chime in here.

So you have the 512 loader? Welcome to TBN Note that the last reply was 15 years ago. Need to find out why this SCV won't work. Maybe someone knows, but additional info would be helpful

Looks very similar to "The Thumb" that I have on my forks, and it is also bolt-on. Greens Machine Shop. http://www.greens-machine.com/

So much misinformation in this thread. Won't try to address it all.

What is your Honda tractor? Engine? HP ? Model #?